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Down&Dirty
Finland
เข้าร่วมเมื่อ 25 ก.พ. 2021
This is where I put the stuff that does not fit on my other TH-cam channel.
Root cellar experiment #2. Final update (Success!!)
This is the final part of this experiment (I may make a short video summarising the whole deal).
Beets stored for 14 months and still good.
This cellar has unstable temperature, it freezes, it floods in spring, sometimes it can have 5 cm of ice on the floor. Nevertheless using an insulated box, wood shavings and a Chlorine Dioxide/ water solution (30 ppm) I have stored beets for 14 months with about a 90% success rate.
The system does not work great for carrots for some reason but The other beets are fine.
Beets stored for 14 months and still good.
This cellar has unstable temperature, it freezes, it floods in spring, sometimes it can have 5 cm of ice on the floor. Nevertheless using an insulated box, wood shavings and a Chlorine Dioxide/ water solution (30 ppm) I have stored beets for 14 months with about a 90% success rate.
The system does not work great for carrots for some reason but The other beets are fine.
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AK 47. Kuinka vaihtaa kivet Aito Kiukaaseen.
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This is just a quick video showing how to change the stones on the AK 47 sauna stove. Hopefully this helps anyone who is considering this, just to show how easy it is! Eli, Miten vaihtaa kiuaskivet (AK 47 - Aito Kiuas 47). Toivottavasti tämä video auttaa jos olet vaihtamassa kivia (Helppo homma)
Freezer=Root Cellar experiment #1 Start to Finnish.
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This a start to finish roundup of my 2022-2023 Freezer as a root cellar experiment. Links to the original series:- Part 1 th-cam.com/video/7OtgJbUcA2Q/w-d-xo.html Part 2 th-cam.com/video/l9tORz-9vdo/w-d-xo.html Part 3 th-cam.com/video/HGLgRBef3lc/w-d-xo.html
Finnish Masonry Heaters. The Home's Heart (Talon Sydän) Re-upload.
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Audio issues fixed (hopefully). The second half of the video had bad Audio. I think it was because of the headphones I was using during video editing. I think I have fixed it now. Had to wait until I had the house to myself so I could do it using the speakers! A brief explanation of what the 'Home's Heart' concept means in terms of heating with masonry heaters. Links to my videos about the baki...
Finnish masonry heaters. -The Russian Rocket (Pönttöuuni)
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Finnish masonry heaters. -The Russian Rocket (Pönttöuuni)
Finnish masonry heaters. -The baking oven. Part 2.
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Finnish masonry heaters. -The baking oven. Part 2.
Finnish masonry heaters. - The baking oven. Part 1.
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Finnish masonry heaters. - The baking oven. Part 1.
Chicken coop build. Recycled materials. Start to finish, time lapse.
มุมมอง 465ปีที่แล้ว
Chicken coop build. Recycled materials. Start to finish, time lapse.
Still don’t get it very badly illustrated 🥵🥵
So, i think the jist is, doors open = higher peak temp, but more heat washed away up the chimney Controlled burn = slightly lower peak temp but more heat for longer Does the increased temp of the open doors 'efficient burn''mean less nasties overall in the flue gases?
Fascinating, thankyou for the insight into these beautiful stoves, here in Wales im wondering what the next stove i build will look like.
The section views at 13:15 and following of the old style heater resemble the shape of the cross sections in G. E. Asp's "Salia ja kahta viereista kamaria lammittava patterilitteinen uuni" of circa 1938, found in Figure 72 of his book "Uuninmuuraaja". Similar to the heater seen at 14:04 and following, it has a pre-heated secondary air supply, but omits the sand battery. I spotted Asp's heater in David Lyle's book, and would like (eventually) to build it, though to heat just two rooms (back to back) rather than three, as Asp shows and describes. See here: drive.google.com/file/d/1e2OGWP0SXFBenM2W0bBYRyl7k64Gwy_-/view?usp=sharing
Great subject. Few issues, however. Please lose the music. It is not necessary and it is cripplingly annoying. Also you have sound problems. Most of the time I could not hear what you were saying, even at max sound settings
Bugs Bunny approved. 😂
Interesting problem solving.
I had no idea those could store so long! Good stuff. Thanks for sharing.
Adding a sand battery is genius.
I remmember that when i grew up and we go visit grandpa then he had a house buid in 1865 from natural stones and wall thickness about 80cm - he had also this type (round and tall) he had to burn it every second dat when outside was -25C id was about 1m in diMETER nd from that gases was also going true a brick heat battery/wall wat was heated from both sides - from kithsen stove and from the "rocket" one... - they are good and efficient I heard that that was masons secret how to make them and at it was been used local stones for heat acumulation - can not confirm if the stones was used - I'm 43 now and they still going fine......
The name sounds and spells Finnish, they are popular in Sweden, I lived in a house in Sweden with five rooms and one of those in every room. Although mine where white in colour.
You know in Spain they have a great old heating system.
Well done.
I presume you were born in England. I agree we should be taking inspiration from the old way's before piped gas. I'm old enough to of seen the the before and after of the modernisation of the 2 up 2 down 100+ year old homes here in the NW England and having 4 open fires obviously wasn't a good idea but blanking them off and using gas central heating and mod cons like upstairs bathrooms etc can result in condensation and mold if the original design of air flow is dismissed. I've recently started work in a small ish work shop and energy bills are a strain on the business for my boss I've noticed outside at a corner of the building there's a red brick chimney that is in very good condition I'm not sure if it was for a steam engine or heating
I love this subject! When I was on vacation in Sirkka in northern Finland we had two big fireplaces. The one upstairs didn't work that well, it had glass doors that apparently needed to stay open when burning. But I found out about the chimney being connected to the underside and was really surprised by that. At first I just thought it wasn't a working fireplace. But very interesting to see they are specially build to slowly release heat. Which is to be expected in a climate where -30 isn't uncommon.
FYI in Russia this kind of stoves is called "голландка" (a holland stove), the round metal cased subtype frequently called "стояк" (a riser)
14:36 so part of the secret is the sand battery..? Can you heat water and put it in the ground?
Hell, that is boring.
YT algorithm strikes again )
Fluid dynamics and heat transfer isn't boring. We started 5000 years ago and still baffled by it.
Fantastic video. I think this is the only video on TH-cam that explains the system of heating an entire house rather than just a single room. You should expand on this concept and explain more in depth the whole house chimney system (Talon Sydän as you called it).
Kiitos videosta!
Just discovered your channel. Great content! Would love to see more info on the modern versions as well.
Brilliant…🔥🥳
Fascinating to see this. I used to build these in Norfolk (UK) with a friend, back in the 1980’s.
My best guess as to why the bricks heat faster is that the fire might still be burning hotter. Reducing air flow will lead to an inefficient burn IF there isn't enough oxygen to complete combustion, but if you have EXCESS air, reducing air flow can get you closer to the stoichiometric optimum and reduces the amount of air mass you have to heat.
Man, the more you want to geek out on these masonry heaters, the happier you’d make me! (I’ve been experimenting with the ash-corrosion resistance of aluminosilicate/zirconia-mullite refractory materials myself for masonry heater fireboxs - and I would love to see your idea of building a new/optimized version of one of these!) Very happy to be newly subscribed to your channel. Cheers!
Brilliantly done!
Thank you so very, very much for taking the time to actually film this whole process and edit it into a hands-on example of how these stove/ovens behave on a practical, daily level. It’s quite difficult to find good info on these heaters, and you’ve done a wonderful job. Can I ask where one might find the types of Finnish stove drawings you briefly showed examples of at the end? I’ve found some Russian and Ukrainian brick stove flue channel drawings, and the German/Austrian Kachelofen/Grundofen types… but have struggled to turn up any Finnish ones. Can’t seem to locate any of Heikki Hyytiainen‘s published research papers either... Any book titles or websites you’re aware of would be *immensely* appreciated. Again, thank you-thank you for these video uploads!
Likely because they're only in Finnish which means that you'd need to know the ISBN number to find them outside Finland.
@ yep. Another major difficulty is the poor quality of most online automated Finnish-English translation (Apple doesn’t even support Finnish translation natively, unlike virtually every other European language) and the existing online translations of stove terms are unintelligible. Example: the pönttöuuni featured in his other video has what they call a “bowl” on top, where the heat riser is…which sometimes gets literally translated as “bowl” and sometimes as “toilet”… same as the firebox referred to as a “nest.” That’s never translated as “firebox” and sometimes ends up as a broken word-salad about bird eggs. 😂 [Edit] all of which is to say: trying to search for Finnish stove literature when neither you nor the search engine know how to translate English into the correct Finnish words & phrases…is a bit challenging.
Thank you for this. I'm going to try it by leaving the freezer in an unhealed insulated shed and see if that can keep them just above freezing. Can't hurt to try.
Can we assume all temperatures referenced are in centigrade?
Very interesting comparison . The reason why on the left with full burn all the time surface temperature was lower may be because the speed of flue gases was too high. I am going also to build masonry heater. Do you have experience with rocket masonry heater - batchrocket with heat riser, vortex? Could be big difference between "classic" fireplace with afterburn chamber and any rocket stove? In terms of clean burning , flue temperature and total amount of heat from the same amount of wood.
I would also suspect that having the hatch fully open, you get plenty of excess air. Ideally you would want flue gas with minimal amount of remnant O2. One should keep in mind that most of the gas (both intake and exit) is N2, wich is mostly inert and does not contribute to the burn, but will transfer heat up the chimney. So any volume of excess air is effectively more than doubled. But on the other hand, with solid fuels you typically still want some remnant O2, because before it would reach zero, you usually get unburnt fuel in the form of carbon monoxide, soot and tar. I have done some tinkering around with a flue gas analyzer. At one point I literally spent hours and hours with a 350 kW boiler with a wood pellet stoker. It was quite interesting actually, but took a lot of waiting, as I quickly learned that when burning wood based fuels making any adjustment will take some time before the burn will reach a new equilibrium state.
As Winter is coming again, Will you Be making More masonry Heater videos. I think interesting video topic would Be to explain secondary Burn and how it is utilized in different heaters. I do know its something to do with re introducing oxygen to The Burn gasses or something but More indepth explanation would Be nice
So interesting. Thank you.
hey whats your main channel if i may ask?
What do you mean by main channel?
Correct, the current batch of Canadian politicians are ridiculous. The heat pump fallacy is but one.
I wonder how this would work on potatoes?
It is not necessary for potatoes. They keep really well in a cool dry place. Beets need more moisture.
I’m not familiar with your oven heater but have you tried partially shutting those baffles while it’s burning hot to see if it slows down your draft instead of choking down the air? This may help the heat soak into the bricks faster without a dirty burn? Anyway to monitor flue temps? This would be a good way to monitor what’s going on as well.
I have tried that and it does seem to slow the burn, It is one more variable I have experimented with but it seems to depend on so many factors. Sometimes it causes a bit of smoke to come from the cleaning ports. It may be outside air pressure making the difference.
Nice video! Do you ever take temps from the outside of the bricks with an IR thermometer?
I did not have an IR thermometer when I did this video.
Thanks for geeking out - please continue...and kindly do a review of that interesting looking masonry heater wall
Great video, love the side by side test, and would love to see a comparison between new and an old sand trapped stove!
Thank you for making these fantastic and thorough videos! I’d love to see more examples of old Finnish and Swedish masonry heater/stoves. I’m building an off grid cabin in Swedish Lapland and was planning on building a classic Swedish kakelugn or rörspis. Do you have and recommendations on books or schematics for building your own stove?
Check out this channel..www.youtube.com/@pro100pech
good job
Smoke Fromm the chimney Is not good indicator. When is wood glasses combustion ok smoke must completly gone....
Your infrared themometer is seeing a reflective metal surface, which includes cooler images lowering your overall reading. The wall is much less reflective surfac e giving a more accurate reading
Ok, thanks for that!
Thank you very much, and yes, I did find your clip very very interesting. Five stars and two thumbs up!
Many thanks!
Thanks for the update! These experiments are fantastic, they're giving me ideas for how I'd like to build a "root cellar" into the foundation of our home. As always, I greatly appreciate you putting out these videos!
great! Obviously I am doing this principally for my own benefit, I am growing more and more veg every year but there is no point if I can't store it. But I decided to document in the hope that it might help other people. Glad you are finding it useful.
I'm curious whether the exhaust is as clean on the 2nd burn as the first, what the temperatures are on the exhaust and whether they're using the same amount of wood (I apologize if you said this last and I just didn't catch it). Part of the point of the rocket mass heater is to have a very clean burn. It would also be interesting seeing a head to head of a this against the same amount of wood in a well designed rocket mass heater (could be someone else's) as a comparison. How heavy is this? The small footprint is appealing for certain situations. I suspect like other masonry heaters it would require some remodeling for support to add to an existing home.
It weighs around 800kg so it definitely needs a good foundation. No, the exhaust on the first burn is much cleaner. This is something that I find a bit annoying about the Rocket mass heater community and the way they use this term 'clean efficient burn' This just means you extract the maximum amount of heat from the wood and that the exhaust is cleaner but says absolutely nothing about how efficiently the heat is actually used, how much heat is lost up the chimney etc. This is why I wanted to show this test, to show that a much less 'efficient' burn can actually be far more efficient in terms of useful heat. I am planning a RMH project so I may be able to do that side by side comparison myself!
very helpful. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks again for taking the time to make this video! I will be incorporating this idea into my round house design for our Alaskan winters.
If you only knew how many hours of editing went into these. (To be honest it's nice to have an excuse not to be working outside in the cold!)
@@downdirty9642 I do understand a little bit, I have a crappy channel that I update every once in a while. I'll be working on it over the summer, I hope to document the build as it transpires. So, thank you for taking the time to study your heaters and share your knowledge with the masses, it is greatly appreciated!!
Give me a link to your channel!
@@downdirty9642 youtube.com/@jacobklingel1026?si=7zN8Hpp583pfYcir
@@downdirty9642 I purchased a 4K camera and a gimbal so that I could produce a slightly higher quality video series. The end goal for our home is to have the smallest amount of input to keep it warm throughout the winter. Full off-grid. No septic, no well. It'll have some key aspects from the Annualized Geo Solar principles incorporated into the foundation. The center of the home will be the utility corridor, much like your home design in this video. I'm just waiting for the snow to melt so that I can get busy building!
You need to bury the refrigerator the dirt
In the dirt. I think you mean I should bury the freezer IN the dirt? I considered that but the ground here freezes down to about 1 meter so It would make little or no difference.
Very interesting but how well does it heat the space and how large of space does it heat? Just seems like those temps aren’t very hot?
This is the problem. This particular heater is in a 14m2 room but it cannot be viewed in isolation, It is just around the corner from the baking oven, in the other direction there is the sauna stove on the other side of the wall. They all work together to heat the space. I wish it were so simple.
As someone with some experience with Finnish masonry heaters, the temperatures are really not even supposed to go very high. The point is that you only burn like at tops twice a day, and when it is not that cold maybe only three times a week. And that mass will store the heat, releasing it slower. The original concept of using mass to store heat is literally thousands of years old and used in Saunas long before any written records of it.
Just surrounding my wood stove with 1500 lbs of concrete paver mass has made a difference for me. It really evens out the heat spikes and probably saves me a little firewood as well.