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@@TraceyHetier Always consult with the manufacturer for their recommendation. However, I highly recommend putting concrete under the lip. It should be at least 12 inches wide and 6 inches thick. The wider the better though.

@@jayviz thank you for your comments and for watching our videos. Prior to installing the pavers, we pour a concrete collar around the pool. The collar is approximately 3 feet wide by 6 inches thick with wire mesh. The concrete helps stabilize the pool and acts as a support for the water feature. If the foundation is built properly then you won’t have any cracking

@@floridapoolman5376 thank you again for sharing your knowledge. now I am really bummed because it doesn't appear that I can ever add a water feature due to weight on the rim. I'm guessing my pool was built like my neighbor's because as far as I know neither one of us has a special concrete collar around it. Just a concrete deck, covered by cool deck ☹️ but thank you again for the great videos I really admire your craftsmanship.

@@jayviz sorry to hear that. Double check with your builder and see how thick the cool deck concrete is at the edge. They should be able to advise on if it is doable. Good luck. Thank you very much for the kind words

@@floridapoolman5376 the builder is long gone because the house has been here for 20 years. I am the second owner. I know the cool deck bullnose overlaps by about an inch and a half at the coping area, but I don't know how thick it is. I guess I can chisel through it and find out? What am I looking for? (In St Pete, Fl )

@@jayviz typically the deck should be around 4”-6” thick. Most builders do not add any reinforcing steel. Hopefully they used a fiber mesh for strength. If the job was done properly then the concrete should be at least 4” and extend under the pool shell overlap. If so then you should have enough support for the new feature. You will need to cut into the concrete to run the new plumbing. When you make your cuts, you can confirm the thickness. If the builder was half decent then you should be Ok. Please keep me posted on your progress. I wish you the best

@@sidneyblackwelder3540 in certain cases that is correct, however with a paver deck, using rock backfill could create settlement within the pool deck. That’s why we use a combination of materials for backfill.

@@floridapoolman5376 Thank you. I have a lot of ground water that ruined my pool. What deck do you recmmend with rock base and rock backfill?

@@sidneyblackwelder3540 Any deck is good. The main thing to focus on is the proper compaction of the backfill. If you used alot of rock for the backfill then I would suggest using a layer of sand to fill the voids in the rock. That will help minimize any settlement. If you add this step then you can use any type of decking material. Be sure to water wash the sand so it gets into all of the voids. Proper compaction is key to a solid deck. Unfortunately for me, I learned this lesson the hard way

@@MervsServiceSecrets thank you. it is locked in with the concrete. It would have to be a very strong kid to pull it over. Thank you for watching and for the questions

@@dionesdasilva10 thank you

@@floridapoolman5376 welcome brother. I will do one this week and will follow your video. God bless

@@NotTooLate thank you

We use liquid nail or advanced polymer construction adhesive. Both work well depending on the load of the blocks

Thank you

Concrete blocks work well but if the radius is tight then a smaller brick may be required. Be sure to use reinforced steel for strength

Thank you

It is called a shuttle buggy.

I like Volt lighting. You can pick those up on Amazon or some of the lighting sites. WAC lighting is a great brand too

I like the Pentair color changing LED lights for full size light niches. I like the Jandy 12volt nicheless lights for the nicheless wall fitting application. I highly recommend converting to low voltage if your current light is 120volt

Thank you for the response.@@floridapoolman5376

Thank you

Igualmente, vale decir, muy bueno el trabajo!

Unfortunately there isn't an easy way to do it. You will need to plug the main drain outlets. And skimmers if applicable, then drain the tank. The valves should pull off the gravity line. (hopefully they haven't been glued to the pipe) At that point you can disassemble the valves and make the necessary repairs. Ultimately I find replacing the valves with new valves turns out to be the best and most efficient method. Over time the rubber gaskets wear out or if the valves have threads then the metal will oxidize. I tend to go the replacement route. The tank should have the manufacturer's information on it. The manufacturer can also help with replacement parts or new valves. Hope this helps. Good Luck

@@floridapoolman5376 Thanks a bunch.

The water feature is typically 60 GPM. The pump will operate up to 160 GPM

Thank you very much

This pool was a Latham Pool Product. www.latham.com

Thank you

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