On December 31, 1906, Bertha Honoré Palmer hosted a charity ball at Chicago’s Armory, raising over $22,000 for the city's needy, while showcasing the "costly simplicity" trend in women's fashion, with gowns adorned with heirloom diamonds, pearls, and intricate lace, highlighting immense wealth and attention to detail.
In 1907, the trend for "costly simplicity" in fashion was a luxury only the wealthiest could afford, explaining its widespread embrace by society. Bertha Palmer's charity ball was a resounding success, with newspapers vividly detailing the event. For those in attendance, the stunning gowns and jewels were the highlight, embodying a "severe simplicity" that was so expensive, it would have shocked the ball's charitable beneficiaries if they knew the true cost.
The clothes at the ball were so costly and detailed that their true expense was beyond even the keenest observer's understanding. The women wore lavish, sparkling jewels, many of which were rare and expertly crafted, with a total estimated value of at least $1 million.
Chicago society, often seen as conservative, was notably extravagant among a few women, such as Bertha Palmer, Evalina Kimball, and Lucy McCormick Blair, who owned jewels worth $500,000 to $600,000, including well-documented tiaras, necklaces, and other pieces.
The event featured an array of magnificent gems, worn by both prominent and new attendees, with a conservative estimate of their total value surpassing $1 million.
The gowns and accessories at the event were even more costly than the gems, reflecting an era of "costly simplicity." A plain velvet gown by Worth could cost $500, due to the artistry and meticulous craftsmanship behind it.
Mrs. Palmer's Worth gown, highlighted by rhinestone strands and intricate details like a tight-fitting skirt and delicate rhinestone trails on black net, showcased its full splendor through elegant craftsmanship that enhanced its allure.
Mrs. Palmer's Worth gown featured white moline sleeves with box-pleated ruffles and black velvet armlets adorned with diamonds, reflecting her sophisticated style. Her understated yet elegant look was completed with a black velvet bow, a diamond "baume," large pearl earrings, a pearl bracelet with diamond edges, and her famous diamond collar, all showcasing her timeless, refined fashion sense.
Julia Dent Grant Cantacuzène, known as The Princess Cantacuzène, wore a cream chiffon velvet gown designed by a St. Petersburg court dressmaker, which, despite its beauty, fell short of achieving the high-waisted effect due to her long neck and elegant bust. The gown featured intricate passementerie, pearl spangles in a Greek key pattern, and Brussels point lace sleeves, all enhancing her tall, slender frame. Her jewels, including diamonds, green opals, pearls, and her famous tiara, along with a fan and bouquet of orchids, added to her quiet elegance in tones of pink and yellow.
Mrs. Honore Palmer showcased her individuality in a pale blue striped moiré princess gown with silver threads, adorned with brilliant jewel strappings, a uniquely shaped tiara, a magnificent pearl necklace, orchids, and an enormous diamond sunburst.
Mrs. Arthur Meeker wore a white satin gown with gold and pink roses and a lace-adorned blouse, while Fritzi Scheft, seated in her box, drew attention with her thinner appearance, stunning immaculately styled hair, and a white gown paired with a large white ostrich feather fan.
Mrs. Smith attended with the Frosts, where Mrs. Frost wore a black spangled gown with exquisite diamonds and a triangular necklace, while Mrs. William Hunt wore a black sequin gown with white lace sleeves and pink roses, both making a memorable impression with their similar styles.
Mrs. W. J. Chalmers and Mrs. J. N. Dickenson made a stunning impression in black attire, with Mrs. Dickenson's velvet gown adorned with bugle passementerie, a diamond collar, and a butterfly in her hair, while Mrs. Chalmers wore a black satin gown with rhinestone shoulder pieces, a cream lace bodice, ruffled lace sleeves, and diamonds in her hair.
Several elegant white ensembles stood out, with Mrs. George Isham in a white velvet gown adorned with pearls and Mrs. Lancaster in a white net dress spangled with shimmering details, complemented by amethysts and pearls, enhancing the vibrant atmosphere.
Mrs. Kimball's exceptional diamond collection, featuring a bow-adorned collar and long diamond chain, complemented her black velvet gown with a corsage encircled by a bertha, brilliants, pearl pendants, and a jet wreath in her hair with an aigrette and black pompon.
The event featured stunning wraps, including a yellow velvet coat with black lynx fur and a coral velvet coat with a gold-embroidered chiffon gown, alongside a pompadour silk gown adorned with vibrant flowers, velvet belt, lace-edged ruffles, and delicate point d'esprit sleeves.