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Its a bit hit and miss. It came with a removable adessive film. It bonds well to amazingly clean and new surfaces (Recent resin areas) It is coming away on the older surfaces even though cleaned. If I had to do it again, I would have coated all the surfaces with resin before applying. Unsure weather to remove and bin the bad areas or just make holes and inject additive for the parts coming away. It would probably be better to just start again but maybe on the next boat project. At least I am learning.

The insulation is actually really good. Before, the diesel heater would only reach 20 degrees c on max and maintain at -1 on its maximum setting of 10. Now it can reach 30 degrees c and maintain the temp on level 4.

Yeah I was about 4 month in before I noticed other people using coveralls. I deff need to get some. I have enough ruined clothes now :)

I cant believe that you are in Mexico. That's absolutely Amazing! I haven't even had my boat on the water yet. Thanks for liking and commenting.

Thank you 💓

Hey, Thanks for the comment. I'm actually not sure. It doesn't appear to be in any of the paperwork. Its a shame because I would have also liked to know.

@@LIAmMyJourney have a look on the sails the number is often on them. Also under the plywood hatches some Centaurs had the number written in marker or pencil during production. You certainly have a MK1 Centaur and it is an 'A' layout. (They made B and C layouts later).

Its fun when the weather is okey. I'm learning so many new things. I'm just in the middle of constructing a roof housing for the massive solar panel I have. Its made of wood!!!! I had a look at your channel. Your stuff looks great!! I think you might laugh when you see what I'm doing. lol

The cylindrical hole in your cabin ceiling. I'm not 100% sure but It appears to have multiple functions. Light is one. It also exposes the layers of the ceiling wood and material, so I would imagine that excess moisture trapped in the ceiling could escape. On the outside it has a large cylindrical top with air holes. I'm not sure but that is my best guess.

@@LIAmMyJourney ventilation dorade

Wow!!! Thanks for your comments. Really appreciated!!!! I am defiantly going to look into adding additional sealant inside after your comments on the flexing of the keels. When I had the boat inspected the guy said he could see a few crystals around one of the bolts potentially sea water. I guess its much easier now while the boat is out of the water to look at this now. Thanks for taking your time to comment. I am going to be keeping the boat on a drying mooring so I will update on how the filler holds out.

​@@LIAmMyJourneyOh well I hope it works out fine on that drying mooring.

Surveyor is right, those joints will crack, filler is exactly that, just filler, it doesn't perform as a structural component. The boat next to you (presuming it's not a Centaur) would have been made like that, i.e they are called encapsulated keels and are made with the hull as a whole component. I also watched your video on insurance. The best insurance for an old boat is good maintenance and skills as a skipper. That is why the insurance want the day skipper qualification. Think about it, car insurance ask how many years have you held a drivers licence? What I can say is insurance companies in the UK do NOT like boats in the water all year around on moorings, and that perfectly makes sense when you see how bad our tidal ranges are plus bad weather. So? Even with fully comprehensive insurance you still need to do the fundamentals, which for all year mooring at minimum is this: 1. Good mooring bridles with antichafe hoses through fairleads and cleats AND inspected regularly. 2. If anchoring a good double bridle snubber and snubber hook. 3. Plenty of decent calibrated anchor chain (8mm chain 50m minimum) 4. Decent anchor (Lewmar Delta is a good one for a Centaur and an original Delta not a fake) 5. Two Proper load rated shackles and not an anchor swivel with the shackles tightened up by adjustable wrench and secured by mousing wire. 6. The actual mooring if laying your own needs to be of a decent setup using appropriate sinkers, buoys, shackles, chain etc. 7. An automatic bilge pump connected directly to the battery with the wiring carefully clipped off and an appropriate inline fuse close to the battery. 8. Minimise your fire risks, so: a) always isolate your batteries when leaving the boat unattended, secure wiring, appropriate size wiring and fusing. b) always turn gas off when not in use (whether you are aboard or not). 9. Always close ALL seacocks when not in use, regardless of if you and aboard or not. Just remember to turn seacock on for the engine coolant when you want to use the engine and close it at the end of the journey. All other sea cocks off unless actually using them. 10. Common sense, use common sense and don't rely on what other boat owners do in a yard, there's plenty out there who have had boats for decades and still clueless. 11. Always err on the side of caution, always check lines for cafe and wear. DO NOT underestimate how quickly an unprotected line can chafe through! In one tide you can easily lose a brand new 18mm line from chafe (especially through bow rollers). Hence why mooring bridles and snubbers need chafe protection and regular checking. For an old Centaur you need either a permanently wet mooring or a very well protected drying mooring, slamming on those keels is not good for the hull or keel joint. There is the Westerly owners association and two Facebook groups, one specific for Centaurs. Enjoy ⛵👍

Thanks for your comment. I’m still familiarising myself with the area and looking for new places to take footage. I do have a backlog of videos I need to edit and publish before, but I will definitely take a look. Thanks for the suggestion :)