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Thanks for sharing but not sure what you were saying except that the timing cover leaked near bottom possibly? If you did use a one peice felpro gasket they are not designed to be used on old or aftermarket parts without sealant which they will tell you the same. There are 2 different pan gaskets to choose from also with either thick or thin front seal. Plus if you watched at end of video I show how to seal in lower timing cover to oil pan lip. This is a critical step when using older or aftemetket parts as they often do not line up perfectly and sealant must be used. Thanks for watching and good luck with your project! 👍

I can add a comparison to Ford cam shafts as well for reference. 👍

All gen5 (1991-1995) 454 blocks are 4 bolt mains and only come with hydraulic flat tappet cams. The GM performance 502 is a whole 'nother animal in structure and aftermarket options. Most marine boat owners want the 502. The gen6 (1996-2002) 454 was the same as gen5 blocks except they were cast and machined like the 5.7 350 roller blocks to have a factory roller cam that included a cam plate for the step nosed cam, dog bone style roller lifter holders and spider style finger hold down tray that bolted into the center of lifter valley bosses. Your gen5 will need a retro fit roller set up with link bar lifters. Also, you can use older mark4 heads on both gen5/6 blocks with a felpro gasket modified for the block water passages which is a big point of confusion out there for many guys. I suggest Morel lifters and avoid comp cams lifters. Also the gen6 was offered with an optional mechanical pump machined into the block by GM if marine guys wanted that. I have been told marine gen5 454 did have optional mechanical fuel pump machining but in 20 years have only seen 2. Then there is the true Vortec 8.1 L18 496 (2001-2010) that has LS1 style heads and intake used on trucks and boats both. But it is possible to have your gen5 machined for roller set up and mechanical fuel pump provisions but the cost is more then just finding a gen6 block. This engine was from a 1996 suburban 2500 and is going into a 1990 3500 dually truck to have the benefit of factory roller cam use and 4 bolt studded mains. Too many flat tappet cams are wiping out last 5+ years for us and if a solid/hydraulic flat tappet is used in our builds then we get them nitrided or have customer look at swap meets for flat tappet cams before 2016. We mainly use crower or howards if new who stands behind their product. Sadly GM stopped making big blocks in 2013 all together but that gives a ton of years to find one out there and put the LS crowd to shame! Good luck with your build!👍

@djrowe10 excellent information thank you so much! Then I will probably go with the Gen 5 and Gen 4 049 heads.

That’s a great engine choice for your Chevelle! Good luck with your cam swap, let us know how it goes! 👍

Thanks for watching! 👍

Glad to help out, it saves so much time and headaches for sure! Thanks for watching!👍

Thanks for watching!👍

@@djrowe10 good video

You got it! I just wanted to show a quick method on how to convert this AC welder. Thanks for watching! 👍

When the intake valve is closing it is moving back into the cylinder head and away from the piston. This is the part of the introduction of air and fuel into the cylinder chamber which is followed by the spark plug igniting that air fuel mix creating an explosion inside chamber area that pushes the energy made during that combustion into the piston while it completes it's revolution of the internal parts that move the drivetrain along. The exhaust vavle opens to let out those combustion gases through the exhaust system. The EOIC method ensures that while setting the valve train lash amount that you are setting it at the appropriate time related to the valves travel of opening and closing to ensure the lifter is at the correct sequence position to avoid it being set either too tight or too loose which can create issues with the valvetrain that can damage parts. If too loose then parts will chatter while pushrod bounces off the lifter and if too tight then the pushrod will flex and even bend or brake from excessive force. When done in the right part of the process you are guaranteeing your lifter position based on which valve is either open or closed. Exhuast opening ensures the intake vavle is closed to set that lifters lash and again when intake vavle is closing the exhaust lifter is at the correct spot to set it as well. Thanks for watching! 👍

I used the original tail housing of C4 700r4 and got a spacer adapter from fitzall adapters online to bolt it onto th350. They also sold a kit to do same thing with th400. Sadly they no longer sell any of these adapters except for 4x4 swaps. It makes the th350 transmission length same as 700r4 so original drive shaft can still be used. I had a quick review of it I removed that I can re-upload it for you.

I have about 20 gallons of it. It gets pretty expensive to fill a 55 gallon drum compared to muriatic acid. Metal prep spray from Lowe's is good too. Plus I use a strong citric powder mix on delicate metals that isn't bad to fill a 55 gallon drum with at about $25. Can get online delivered from a lab to home. Elecrolisis is another alternative method that is economical. The best thing overall is shop shot blast tumbler but isn't cheap at about $100 a block and $50 per head. I can upload a video of it. Thanks for watching.

Good to hear your gasket install worked out for you. As listed in the description this video is for fixing oil pan leaks on bad surfaces. We primarily build cirlce track engines and some guys are running 30+ year old pans that have seen better days so we use this method to help seal the oil pan the best as possible due to rust pitting or deformations. Many professional machine shops use more sealant then just the corners. Thanks for watching! 👍

I don't think so with any of the tbi/tpi carb swaps we've done. The 02 sensoers are still hooked up and the computer's pretty basic being OBDI type. The only emissions issues would be in California and other states they do physical inspections and the c4 did not come with a factory carburetor which would be a failed test. I have no engine lights on or any other swaps done so far have either. If you did have a light come on then just pulling the light out under the dash area would turn off any engine lights that came on anyways.

@@djrowe10 great thank you very helpful. i do have one other question. was it very hard to set up the fuel lines and the throtle cables onto the carb? i cant imagine it being very difficult. but i just dont know enough to know if there are any weird problems you might run into.

You can either keep your factory fuel pump or swap it out for a low pressure efi pump like out of 1990s truck or car. If keeping factory pump, for the fuel lines you will need a fuel pressure regulator to step down the factory efi pump from high pressure of 50psi to low pressure for carb of 5-7psi. Holley does sell an ok regulator for this part number (12-880), but Aeromotive sells a very good one with part numbers (13301 or 13220). Amazon has some knock offs too. I have some info about this in other videos too. The sending fuel line can be kept as is by sliding factory's end fitting back and then can push on a high pressure fuel hose and clamps over line's end or you can get a flare tool to make the 37 degree flares ends needed to use -6AN fittings for a pro level set up with all hard fuel lines used for the best seal. Plus the biggest bonus about the factory fuel lines is you have a return fuel line that will come off of the regulator back to the tank to avoid dead heading and prevent vapor lock issues. Good luck with the swap! 👍

For throttle cable I usually just twist in a short loop the cable and use a braket to hold throttle cable and trans cable if using 700r4. Amazon, Summit, Jegs, and Speedway Motors all carry one. I got a cheap one off Amazon as holley knock off part number (amazon search bar part ID- (ASIN : B0B7ZLKMGP). www.amazon.com/Throttle-Carburetors-Aluminum-Adjustable-Anodized/dp/B0B7ZLKMGP/ref=asc_df_B0B7WYZNZV/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=692875362841&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=645143846372290782&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9015260&hvtargid=pla-2281435179298&psc=1&mcid=b5b6c04c181336ceaf5957855ebd01c5&hvocijid=645143846372290782-B0B7WYZNZV-&hvexpln=73&gad_source=1&th=1

@@djrowe10 hey man thank you sooooooo much! u have been extreamly helpful! im 16 and still learning all of this! i got this back in august 2023 and its been so much fun building and restoring it with my friends until i blew the engine about a month ago. so were swapping it and we decided to go with a carb just to clean up the engine bay and for simplicities sake. next im putting in new rubber bushing for the control arms because they are the stock ones and they are starting to creak and small cracks. im hopefully going to be making high 300s hp!!!! its a clean body and most all original also which is really cool. i got it when i was 15 and learned to drive stick on it. and then in april when i got my licence i got pulled over the same day lmao. really appreciate all the help and i am having a really exiting time with it! thanks again man!

The 1880/1885 gaskets are for 2 pc rear main seals. Felpro only makes the 34500 for the 1 pc rear main and has no other gaskets offered. I Fel Pro Oil Pan Gaskets OS 34500 R is designed to fit the stock timing cover on a Chevy small block engine (Gen 1) with the thick front seal and one-piece rear main seal. If you have the oem GM stock pan and timing cover this is the gasket for that. Since you have an aftermarket oil pan and did not say if using stock timing cover or not it is a guess then to say what gasket works best. But generally the aftermarket pans will use the thick front seal that is the 34500R gasket. If you are using short stock length oil pan bolts it is possible that the pan is not tightening up all the way and you could try longer pan bolts sold online. I have had some guys tell me that the 34500 has gave them similar trouble and it doesn't have any tangs on corners to go into rear main and timing cover grooves like other one piece gaskets have. The many variations of gaskets out there is why I use the combo of sealant and rubber gaskets and not just put on dry and chance leaking. I also think it is worth checking the front oil pan lip to see if bent, cracked, or warped so you can fix that area if needed. I have been using moroso pan gaskets with good success lately. The moroso one pc pan gasket you would need is part number 93151. There instructions specify that you will need to add silicone to seal area of timing cover lip and rear main cap lip area and not just the corners or completely dry either. Good luck with this build and let me know what you try or find out next. 👍

@@djrowe10 timing cover is original from that engine. And I tossed my old oil pan not thinking of this problem coming up. I have new bolts that fit fine but I did notice the rear main seal has studs, the front main seal has bolts, you think if I put studs it would be better off?

I use studs when I can for better clamping and to align the gasket easier. Probably worth trying them. You'll have to provide and update when you get it done.

My first opinion is that the plug was drove in too far. Seen many times. My second opinion is that the engine was hot enough to diesel and motor may have spun in reverse enough to push cam backwards into plug. My third opinion is the cam had to much clearance end play which can cause it to bounce back some into rear cam plug when initially moving forward and rebounding back. Try to set button end play at 0.004-0.009. Many guys forget to add gasket between timing cover and block when checking or to mathematically account for thickness of compressed gasket. I just use an old one thats already been compressed. If I had to choose I would say plug was drove too far in though, especially if your button clearance was correct. Just put in new plug and recheck button end play if you got it on stand. Worse case scenario is cam moves to much and lifter wheel wipes out or scars up lobe. Either way good luck with your build! 👍

I really was just looking at how to do it quickly and without a bunch of other complicated elecronic parts. I have 2 DC stick/tig machines also. But DC is a better type of welding overall for better performance in relation to penetration, appearance, and other things that when this AC welder was made in 1990 was much cheaper then a DC unit that could cost up to a thousand dollars. AC has it's use in a small limited type of welding and I suggest you go online and study up and learn more about DC and AC welding if you are getting in the welding trade. Also youtube has many master welder instructors that have dozens of videos about welding. Good luck with your project! 👍

Hey there! My family member has been battling cancer and everything's been on hold. Plus my spare time lately has been rebuilding my GMC 3500 454 engine that developed a rod knock spun bearing. I have ordered lots of parts to complete this swap and hopefully will be making more videos soon and be up and running for the summer. Thanks for checking in on me! 👍

Sorry that I accidentally replied to you about a different project. So the 1978/79 c3 was a special year in that GM entered it for the pace car series which they wanted maximum rear end power and so went back to big block times for their race inspired version. This meant they went to bigger 3" half shafts and also added tin and other metallurgical materials to make the differential case stronger. Plus they added steel to the body floor pans to increase rigidity from flex upon launching. Mostly seems like overkill for just a 350 engine but is perfect for the BBC swap. Also it is necessary to make a new larger diameter driveshaft with a safety loop and stronger u joints. Some guys I know back in day were sending their shafts to get cryotherapy frozen to improve overall strength. 💪

The pitman arm will go over the larger key way style grooves with it's own key way splines sliding over the saginaw shaft with multiple possible directions to give you more adjustments if needed for a loose or tight gear box. Either you are not starting the dividing of turns left and right at the center point or something is broken inside the box. Ring gear teeth and shims can break in gear box causing limited travel along with other unwanted conditions. Plus it is possible to have the incorrect pitman arm which I have seen many times done in error. Was your box new or working normal before you started setting up the pitman arm or was it a used one? Lots of factors involed using older stuff verses new out of the box.

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Lowe's, Home Depot, and other hardware stores sell new locks to install for cheap too. Thanks for watching!👍

Oh yeah! I have 4 of them and even used old bed frame rails with casters for cheap to give a bottom frame that rolls around the garage easy. Now all of my tools are stored easy. Thanks for watching. 👍

Glad to have helped you with your project! 👍

It's something how polarity really makes a difference

Dart has told me they have safely made 750HP. I know many doing 900+ with power adders. I think it is more a matter of pistons and valvetrain then block issues with the SHP. MY GM 509 400 block (421ci) is pushing 13:1 compression and 647HP with zero issues for 3 years now. The whole GM high nickle block thing is quite a debate but I have never had a supposed GM high nickle block fail me but the regular castings did at just around 500HP.

@@djrowe10 thompson motorsports uses the SHP block in their 2000 hp shortblocks

Wonder how much more the little M block can handle then? Funny how 12 years ago when I decided to go with an aftermarket block myself 1000HP was rare and now is common with the turbocharged LS platforms and 2000HP is the new benchmark of extreme performance.

@@djrowe10 Yea from my research its common to go to the SHP Pro from what I've seen if your going for 2000 or more just because its only like 400-600 bucks more over the SHP but supposedly the SHP block can take 2000 as well some guy said hes had one at 1850whp about 2150ish crank without fail and on some forum a dart Tech said they had one up to 3000 in a dragster

@@djrowe10 My engine builder used the SHP block with dart billet crank, power adder plus rods, JE ultra pistons, Mast heads and all he does is turbo LS stuff for his dragster he actually has the record for LS dragster I think but he said it was good for 2000 so I guess ill take his word for it lol I wouldnt have mined an extra 500 bucks on the bill to just get the SHP Pro but lol

781 heads are the best choice for better street performance choosing OEM cast iron heads. If your application is towing then you could save more money on using traditional peanut port oval heads found on millions of 454 truck engines out there. They are best suited for low rpm max torque output related to towing. If for any other performance situation then just towing it is always better to have the 049/781 large oval port heads that flow well above the 5k RPM band with larger valves and minimal porting. Good luck with your project! 👍

I some what agree.. I was just curious about port velocity...I jabe a vortec 454 currently and I see these heads make about the same power as peanut port with a cam as the vorteca do stock..I'm just curious how the bigger ports work down low with a smaller profile towing cam.

Well that is very complex question but has been answered in the past both in theory and on the dyno. The peanut port heads can only make around 400+ HP NA with insane port work and bigger then stock valves. The large oval ports can and have made 700HP or more on the dyno with just bigger valves (2.30x1.88) and moderate port work. Google search for Dr. J 781/049 port work power. Then watch Richard Holdners TY channel for more BBC testing. I don't want to make a response as long as the bible but port velocity is directly related to how the metal is port shaped. Cylinder head intake/exhaust volumes and engine bore sizes work together as an air pump to create power. Their is direct correlations between how much air will go in and out of engine based on size and volume. That is why large oval ports will make more power all day long in the entire power band and peanut ports have a small rpm range that was made just for the powerband of towing/hauling. Watch Richard Holdner on TH-cam here about peanut port heads: th-cam.com/video/ERBi1giKLAY/w-d-xo.htmlsi=NWTJzBChKE5g77go

Watched them all... I understand what heads work for good street builds with larger ports... I'm trying to narrow it down to what size and design ports work best with a low duration high lift cam... not alot of in depth real world tow motor builds that actaully have lower rpm in depth dyno pulls.

I would have to know what cam you are looking at and what head choice. Low duration and high lift truck cams are usually for 4x4 builds and not towing applications. Why would you want high lift for towing capabilities since lift dictates the power band rpm range and the higher the lift the higher rpm is needed to achieve the top of that power band. 4x4 trucks will have a bigger stall or manual trans to get rpms up faster into their power band. Tow trucks just need low lift low mid level rpms to get heavy loads going. Smaller valves and not the larger 2.19/2.25/2.30 sized valves or even stock sizes will be sufficient for any non racing high performance build if you do mild port work. What exactly are you trying to accomplish again?

Um, not sure how to respond?

Not too sure about that combo since I have never tried it. If you try it please let me know how it works for you. 👍

No, the ECM is still intact but I did not attempt to hook up cruise control and decided to remove the entire cruise control system for more engine space. I really am most worried about the VATS system failing or locking out. My foot is in it too much for cruising anyways! 👍

Most of the newer high end racing and custom carbs come with holes already in the butterflies. I just think people today run more aggressive cams even in street driven cars that require that little boost of air. Glad you were able to get it figured out! 👍

Glad to have helped. Thanks for watching! 👍

Glad it was helpful! 👍

The gasket is still needed too since it would be too difficult to get the amount of sealant just right. Thanks for watching! 👍

@@djrowe10 I’m gonna try to do without gasket. Any tips by chance on bead size? I heard 1/4” on the right angle corners so I think imma try 1/4” whole thing

1/4" is probably fine. I have only done transmission pans that way and think it was about that size. Good luck with that and hope it worked out! 👍

Thanks for watching! I had made a few more recordings that I lost due to a damaged USB card. The last 8 months have been on hold from the project due to a car accident hurt my back and leg. Now that winter is approaching and I am walking better again, I will be taking on the completion of the C3 corvette. I usually do a bunch of work while recording and upload afterwards so check back around end of February. I am currently rebuilding a th400, th350, and 4L80e for my personal cars then will jump back into things. 👍

@@djrowe10 10-4 Appreciate you... Speedy Recovery and stay safe 🙏🏿

Thank you as I am slowly getting there!😐

Valve covers where found on facebook marketplace locally from an older guy who says they were from the 1990s.

Welding is an automotive repair necessity. Thanks for watching. 👍

I love working on carbs because they don't need a computer or electricity. Just a screwdriver and vacuum gauge 👍

Yes was mixed with water. 1 gallon acid to 20 gallons water in 55 gallon drum.

I think you mean Felpro? Sounds like a great idea. Please make a video demonstration. They also don't say to use sealant on rear main seals but all professional builders do. Plus we use only 100% sealant between the intake manifold and china wall but I guess you just use the little rubbers that come in Felpro kit? I'm sure those rubbers keep you safe. Thanks for watching! 👍

Not too many people will go through the effort of porting cast iron heads or pay a shop $2k to do them since the after market has more affordable aluminum heads. I personally buy AFR enforcers as good low cost heads for the 489-540 builds but these heads were for a 454 c3 vette restoration build. Thanks for watching! 👍

@@djrowe10heck I got a great deal....new bronze guides, hardened seats, new valves, 5 angle valve job, porting and valve unshrouding and heads that flow 320 cfm for $900. 👍.

​@@trailerparkcryptoking5213Sounds like a hellava deal! Not around here in Cleveland Ohio area...Bronze guides alone cost $600-800. Glad you got a deal and I personally buy AFR for myself last few years.

No problem and thanks for sharing! 👍

If you watched the whole video you would have heard me comment on fel pro and my personal discussions with them about using sealants. I allow comments and opinions from everyone within reason but since I build multiple amounts of engines for racing per year, I am sharing my methods that 100% work best for my work but it's a free country where you can do whatever you want buddy. I plan to stick with what has worked hundreds of times for my builds but please upload your own video to show us your way so I can watch and comment too. I will be waiting back yard garage guy! 👍

I know what you mean! Good luck with the gasket swap out and thanks for watching 👍

@@djrowe10 been a week now and all good no leaks, I ran about 1/4" bead of ultra black top and bottom and it came out beautiful. Next time I change my transmission fluid and filter I'm going to try the same, I'm always getting a little sipage there and have to tighten bolts so it don't leak. Thanks, your video was what convinced me of doing it. 👍👍

So glad to hear about the good outcome! Plus I really appreciate your responses to let me know it helped as it helps others! 👍

Crankshaft rear main bearing functions as a thrust bearing and needs "play" or if too tight will wear out and cause too much forward movement and hurts the shaft and will lead to spinning a main bearing. Most engine "play" is 0.020" or less and not 1/8". That is reason for magnetic dial gauge to measure. Plus your timing chain if a double roller with a torrington bearing will require grinding on block to clearance the wider chain and sprocket. If not will be tight and will wear down these parts damaging them over time. Some one probably has a yt video about it. Good luck and go get your magnetic dial gauge! 👍

Because I did not use anything except the bridge rectifier is the reason I stated it is not a true DC current. Thanks for sharing.

It will flow 820-840cfm. The biggest advantage to this set up is higher venteri velocity for for a crisp throttle response.

Not always. Brass is soft and easy to quickly cut but steel fittings can snap a drill bit in the vice so taking a few steps up in size is just safer for the tools. Thanks for watching!👍

Great stuff to use for sure!

Use the plastic clips that twist into block bolt pan holes to hold gasket up while you put pan on. Not all gasket kits have them so be sure your kit you buy has them. Sometimes the crossmember will block the opening and you will have to seal the gasket to the pan and press it on the block. If that is the case then remember the sealant cure time and to get it up before it starts starts setting up.