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I use to walk In to cottons from San Clemente in early 60's good surf like church 😅

thats not avalanche, thats the main break, avalanche on the edge of the bay to the south.....when its offshore with a big west swell it does get really good, this is a big but not good day

Lumpy swell.

Hey, that's me at 6:08

All that snaking wouldn't have been tolerated back in the 70's early 80's

In 1971 or so you could have had 10 acres of the immense Hollister Ranch and access to the surf for $100K.

I met one of the Perkos brothers in San Diego. He'd been severely injured in a car crash. He told me stories of the old days on the ranch. In 1970 myself and two friends walked in to Cojo from Jalama. Trunks, shirts flip flops and boards. No water. Jalama was a junked up 3-4' and the Ranch was understandably tiny. Beautiful, peaceful walk though. Thank you for the footage and especially no Rap or headbanger zit popping background music.

Maxed out

I got my first in and out tube out in front of the campground in 1982.also had my first jalama burger.sometime in the mid 90s i saw a tarantula migration, thousands of them crossing the road just before you can see the ocean.i believe that where Tarantulas got its name

Shitty wave with shitty locals. Keep your shitty place rich bastards.

Ridiculous howling wind. Good luck on your Wavestorms or any other platform for that matter. Find another location to drag beginners to!

This is the best video I've seen lately because you got the sounds of nature or better than any man can make All this b******* music on some of these surfing videos is repugnant I turn that s*** right off

Ya Way Man !,, We Waz Thar

Wave faces means NOTHING. Wave height is a vertical ONLY measurement. When a swell is moving the wave period may cause "faces" of many, many feet for a mere 4 foot wave height.. Due to the nature of gravity and fluid dispersal, breaking waves are not significantly larger than swells. I am sick og bogus fakes claiming 100 foot waves when they are visibly hardly over 40. I have stood with others watching 4 foot waves being exaggerated by the dopeswillers calling them 10. I was surfing one nice 8 ft MAXIMUM day when hyperventilating kooks called waves i was on as the biggest they had ever seen, and 20'. Tarantulas is not distinctly better than other waves around it. It is merely the only free parking at Jalama beach stretch. The rpad does not go south to pt conception because of Bixby ranch owners Either a wave is 4 foot VERTICAL pr it may be 2 ft or less with a "face" measurable as much greater BECAUSE IT IS HORIZONTALLY MEASURED BY KOOKS.

90's? Youngsters.

3-4’

4 to 7 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣

Do ya get threatened or beat up before or after you surf. Welcome to the bay ya'all.😂

A California goofy foot, Haggerty's was one of the few spots between Ensenada and San Francisco I never surfed, along with Palos Verdes spots. Heard it was always insanely crowded whenever breaking. Some big boards in the video.

TYpical sitting on the shoulder, too common. While through surfing history, the notably skilled actually take off in, at the peak, almost all so-called "surfers" squat like quivering toads on the shoulder, Do NOT worship the competent, but LEARN to respond to the challenge.

i used to surf there but all i really remember is the place sucked and the local vagina's always tryed to snake you if you werent in there click but were all words when it came down to it on the beach i cant tell you how many people i ran over there trying to block my wave

This video would get more views if you had some techno soundtrack with a chipmunk voice…..

Natures surf park.

Queen's surf and San Onofre have 4-7 foot faces on surf less than 1 foot high. DON'T claim anything using "faces", surfers KNOW you are bullshtting.

I watched my buddy get chased back into our boat by a big great white last time we went. Lucky to be alive.

I respect everyone only been surfing for 51 years most of those dumb cunts learned their lesson in the 80s hopefully

need to be riding a fish, all those guns are just bogging on a wave with no oomph

I surf this spot anytime I want and have for many years. Nobody hassles me, probably because I take off deep and make my waves. The hut is now torn down and several of the crummy guys have been to court………

I heard they are making condos there. With an esplenade and a taco stand.

My grandparents owns Newport point 18th Street they have an apartment building there and some store ever since the old days and now it's just taking over by all you Orange County idiots

was that Flash in the alley ????

The California State Government let the developers ruin the coastline because of their greedy ways. Greed is what’s killing the planet.$$$$$Greed…….

Nice work! It's thanks to TH-cam videos like this that we no longer need to respect the locals. In fact, just tell the folks who who surf here that you saw this video, and I'm sure they will be honored that you showed up. They'll probably even let you have your pick of the sets. Of course, the alternative would be to post this video and kindly omit the name/location. But hey, that's for thoughtful, respectful suckers, right?

I used to surf El Porto, Zuma, Huntington, Seal, Salt creek, Dana Point, Blacks and San Clemente until I was out in a storm alone in triple overhead like this and almost died. PTSD is tough!

A lot of good locals in NB. My respect to one dude I saw surf Blackies once. Decent size waves starting before the pier. Nobody else out. It was dark and a little stormy. He took off beyond the pier, connected at least three sections and stepped on to the beach. Didn't even wear a leash, pink fishtail.

My home break was N.B. when the oil spills happened in 1990 i think. We had to ride waves past laguna because the North County beaches were closed. I stumbled on this gem. A very nice left can be had. Had a few in and outs there. It was nice before all the homes were put up. Take that dirt trail down. Once our beaches opened up after a couple of months. I would continue to make the drive down when some swell going on.

I think I saw a guy that could kinda surf? Naah.

My stepfather was Frank Nicholson who was a whole chapter in the union Isle of California book. Is final tasks where to oversee the pipelines that go to point conception for leaks. He was good friends with Floyd, who laid out the 100 acre parcels at Hollister Ranch. I was the only guy that Floyd liked or let surf. I go right through that gate with my dad's key step dad's key or when Floyd was there and people would go who are you what's up and I would say it's a secret. In music and songwriter buddy Princeton Jackson Browne put me on stage in the stage collective for the first No Nukes show, and movie by the same name, and he says;" why do you look familiar?" I struck a surfer's stance and said;" coming down!" I always do that, so I'm not caught by somebody on the inside getting in my way. I was always waiting for the rogue Wave and I would never back down on any wave! I live in Newport now but my wife is retired and we're getting ready we bought a home in Costa Mesa and the nice section by the country Club. As a result of an injury accident I will be getting a major settlement soon. Then I can buy a parcel next to Jackson, and it's over 100 million so we're going to be able to afford a house in Santa Barbara and Hawaii. David Kay, whose dad invented the Kay pro computer PC, bought two houses from me in Lompoc when I was in real estate. He flipped them and use the money to start coho wind power the first one in the United States. It's small small small small small small small world. My sole proprietor business is Spectrum jockeys Productions . I raised 600,000 of the 1 million private placement, in 93'. United Boadband international went on the NASDAQ in 98. After a 20 split forward on the stock, opening price 5 bucks, investors were up 100 to 1 the stocks ran up to 25 by noon. I felt that since Nortel, the Canadian phone company we're the only ones that had the Tower and the servers. It turned into our problem. AT&t and Cisco had missed out. Neither of them had the chip from IBM, Brooks Freeman the quicker faster guy who created the concept of dual computing was my angel investor and put up half a million so that if my group voted with them we controlled the company. You can check out my TH-cam channels 😘 if you want to load anything up there and make a sub Channel I'm going to start promotions pretty soon cuz I'm getting well from a for back surgeries in a 10-year-old ordeal. The same computer that told me I had 8 years to live if I didn't stop smoking and then 10 after now says I will live 15 years. I am so stoked. My wife's house was just passed the little beach on promontory Point. We sold the house last year and split up the money between family and it's the last fill in on Channel Drive. A great aunt doc came in 1912 to start the phone system as first female engineer at AT&T, her dad Fritz Thomaseck invented the Frisbee, licensed it, got a penny off of everyone. He smiled and told me before he died I sold 100 billion of them!! He also started mold foam injection, MFI, he made the machines that make anything out of Styrofoam. It's an end of an era, because they also managed the private side of the Little Beach. I know God had to have blessed me because I fell in love with her without knowing anything about her father. My stepfather's best friend at Union oil , Fred Smith, had married my wife's Grandma after her husband died!!! The odds for all that are off the chart! I believe that the steps of a righteous man I ordered by God and I use that concept to determine who's the liar. It's an IBM technique where you send three people to ask them questions about an impossible task and then you that must be done then you put pressure on them in the liars stories change and they keep saying oh I can get it just give me more time the honest people say sorry it can't be done. On the first day of the takeover IBM fires all the liars it makes the turnaround really easy. So I'll look for you at the wedge when it's breaking next time it's big I bet you'll be there. We should trade stories because I served almost every Beach from to Jalama. I was in the crew that learned to first serve tarantulas point. Mark and PJ wall will power surfers and they had a surf shop I believe it was Avila Beach one of the Tri-Cities. The trick was to take off on the right side and shoot straight into the left barrel before if you tried to take off on the left you got nailed by the lip. Going from slightly the right side and aim at the barrel was much better. I went to school on HPA, Hawaii Preparatory Academy, on the big island in 70-71. I'd love to find out more about where you grew up and how you got this great coffee turned into such a good Channel. 🤟🌎. It's wonderful that you're making these in so many guys like Jamie O'Brien, with GoPros, literally letting me refresh my memory of the experience. I've had four major surgeries starting in 2013 that resulted in ending my fun with surfing in golf. I figure out how to do what I can more and fill in the loss. I haven't seen the point or to sign a Jalama in years cuz I've lived in Newport Beach for 38 years now so THANKS FOR THE MEMORIES! I'm 71 , now, you don't have many years left. I wouldn't have wanted to be them or anyone else or any other time when you would look for other people on the beach to hang out with, not have to put up with them when you're trying to catch a wave! I just found out that I've been cured from three different fatal terminal type things, lung cancer nodules were not cancer, I had gastritis all four keep you from digesting food and ultimately fatal, I had COPD and scar tissue on my right lung from pneumonia in 2005. Three days ago I go to my doctor to see the most recent CT scan and he's smiling. Look at your esophagus tissue, that says normal look at your lung tissue it says normal even the scarring is even gone. It says you have mild COPD! You're not supposed to be able to grow lung tissue according to the Western science. I caught the gastritis of the mission field I guess God decided to do those miracles for me. The same computer that said I would have an extra 10 years if I quit smoking, now says 15. I got my life back I'm making plans for the future. Spectrum Jockey's Productions, the mainly produce myself my music on TH-cam but I produce it turns out a lot of other stuff too. I was injured playing music at the pier in Newport Beach and the cops didn't respond to the 911 twice that night. My attorney said it'll take a while but since you went through so much suffering the last 3 years you have a lawsuit. I'd rather not have had the entire miserable experience sometimes God has to go a long way around the mountain to give you what you need. I'm using half of whatever I get Jesus houses for people like Saint Jude's Hospital Go for free stay as long as it takes to relaunch into a successful productive citizen. Sorry about this mini book but I had so much to be thankful for and you just triggered so many many wonderful memories of summer's gone by like so many summer fields would say. If you ever watch the no nukes movie, I'm center stage with a black ovation guitar second row sharing a mike with Graham Nash. All these things have to be God's blessings because I'm not capable of arranging such things myself. I also love the way you leave the natural sound of the ocean, it's Barry soothing. Keep it up I love it, the pre-dawn rides feel so familiar. I'm getting ready to promote my three TH-cam channels since I have a future and I will be sure to promote yours, just cause I can, no $ involved just respect. 🤟💝👍

Never saw a wave over 6’

Too many dick heads in the water. Taking it way too serious

The surf there is always sloppy chop suey wind blown.

Grew up there, five houses back from the water - 85 - 95. Great memories surfing there and hanging out at 24th street! Thanks for sharing!

There's no such olace as '"Newport point", or there never used to be. Looks like maybe 15th street, or maybe 54th, but it looks more like a west swell, so probably 15t street?

10 foot max if that

10 feet and done. 18 feet?

10 to 13 and a half. You’re funny

Tear down the Beach Hut at Lunada Bay? Why?!? Because the locals probably don't like the foot traffic? Ridiculous! I grew up right there in that area; California Beaches ARE public beaches; hence, they are usable to all who can get there (as long as you are not trespassing on homeowner property). Listen, EVERYONE that buys property in beach areas should know in advance the rules of beach access for public use. Many people that buy in these areas come with the attitude that they will close-off beach access - their excuse is to protect the peaceful enjoyment of their property & neighborhood. While I understand what they are claiming, they CANNOT revoke public access to public beaches! I used to live out on the cliffs of Malaga Cove overlooking the beaches of Torrance & Manhattan. Directly accross the street from my home was a small green park area, then the edge of the cliff(s). There was a path there to gain access to the beginning (Southern end) of Torrance Beach. This was a very popular public beach access - parking for this access was my street (summertime was nutsers). BUT, I knew this fact when I bought the home - problem solved). I grew up living on CA Beaches at the edge of the surf line. CA Beaches rank right at the top of the list of 'most beautiful beaches worldwide'; people vacation & live in these areas for that reason alone. We CA Beach Natives understand the Spring/Summer/Fall influx of people wanting to enjoy the beaches (we grew up with this sharing attitude). The problem is the migration of new homeowners (from the interior or more eastern parts of the U.S.); they come with nontolerant attitudes; hence, the war on beach access in their communities. Do Real Estate Agents forewarn potential buyers? I would say the majority of them don't. The CA Coastal Commission has laws on beach access (online). Potential buyers/homeowners need to educate themselves on CA Beach Access, period. In the meantime, whenever I do go to SoCal (Southern California), I always plan on a couple of days at the beach. Yes, I will be respectfully be using beach access. As for the land slide areas of SoCal, my sympathies to the homeowners; they have paid massive bucks to live out on the Palos Verdes Peninsula - I moved away years ago. I pray the land (historically) stops moving, but my prayers will most likely go unanswered. It will be a geological battle that the residents/homeowners will NOT win, unfortunately. In the meantime, SURF'S UP! ⛱️ 🌊 😎

Why is nobody out?

8-12 Hawaiian solid

Anyone that grew up inland has No idea the kind of fitness, experience and courage it takes to paddle out in this! 😮 I grew up in Minnesota but was born out and over in Australia.