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Thanks for checking us out; I sure hope to have at least a few more forge work videos up this winter (absolute best time to be at the forge haha) That smithing coal is great bituminous fuel. Chimney is 12 inch, works great. Most folks will recommend 12...10 can work as well just make sure to run it properly without hard turns; straight up ideally. I once used 8 inch pipe, to some success....and, believe this: 6 inch too for a few months with enough success to not develop smokers cough hahaha 😀

@@IronsInTheFire-Official Thanks

Just a normal trim coil guage; .019 I believe. I've used heavier guage .024 before but it's quite a bit harder to work with on longer runs in the brake and without enough benefit to make me want to use it again.

Hate to hear that! I hope you can get it narrowed down! Someday I hope to put up a full video on our gutter installs and try to cover as many variables as possible. Thanks for checking us out!

@IronsInTheFire-Official yeah, the third gutter company to screw me. It's like, I should have done it myself with parts from lowes. But No I had to have seamless gutters by a "professional ". You don't solve your existing problems by hiring a "professional". You have to do the work yourself.

Check a few things (if you still have the screens): -top lip doesn't come over past the gutter -screen itself isn't covered over with debris -gutter isn't installed too low -if your screen is "roll-lock" style (most commonly sold at home depot/ lowes/etc ..), flip it over to where it creates a slight trough under the gutter -if it's in a roof valley, you need a small splash block It's rare these screens will channel water over...if so, anything from that checklist will solve it. If it's still running over, they've just gotta be installed wrong.

Thanks for checking it out! :)

Might just do it :)

Hey thank you! First 5/8 inch hem hits about 3/4 inches in.

Thanks@@IronsInTheFire-Official

Also on the video portion. I would have the camera facing the brake side of the brake and not on the backside so we can see what you are doing.

Thanks! I'll try that out :)

Thanks for checking it out!

Agreed; and pine cones!

Love it :) There's so many good uses for them if done right! Even mine could've been larger or installed higher up but this will do me for any uses I'll have up here. In my line of work I just see so many that are installed and utilized quite poorly.

Thanks! 😊

In Tennessee

Van Mark Trim master; the "green one" I call it. I'm in Tennessee.

All bituminous coal, mined. I've never desired to work with wood charcoal but I may experiment with it one day. I've also got a stock of Anthracite coal I rarely use; it's more a backup really.

I've never worked with charcoal for forging. I've used bituminous and anthracite coal primarily; occasionally propane. John Switzer of Black Bear Forge works with charcoal on this project skillet: th-cam.com/video/accPG3Z4H6c/w-d-xo.htmlsi=CtL5ErgzW8_GzMya I would speculate you'd just need to keep an eye on how big the fire grows during forging. Keeping only enough charcoal right around your fire that you need and/ or watering it to control the fire movement :) Thanks for checking us out; best wishes!

real Charcoal (lump BBQ) is pure carbon and doesn't require any cokeing with water and it burns hotter and faster and starts easier. It also doesn't have as many impurities such as sulphur so it doesn't create as much clinker. I use charcoal to start my coal / coke fires or when I need a huge fire with lots of heat for large forgings. Pure charcoal fires with forced air can easily exceed steel forge welding temperatures very quickly so you have to be very attentive to your work. Currently where I live, 40lb lump charcoal is $18 at the grocery store, 50lb blacksmith coal is $34, ferrier's coke 50lb is $38.

Thanks for joining! My first order was bought online; shipping was about as much as the coal! Hardwood does great really, so keep it up! I've still got 2 drums of Tractor Supply nut coal I rarely use. It's anthracite and generally difficult to forge with, particularly with hand- crank blower. Best wishes!

@@IronsInTheFire-Official i thought the tractor supply anthracite was the right coal. What do i really want to get if i can find it and where do i look to find it? Im heading to Jacksonville Florida next week and thinking someone there surely supplies coal.

@devonodonnell6443 look for Bituminous Coal...or by the brand "Pennsylvania Smithing Coal" or just smithing coal. You can forge with Anthracite, it's just more difficult and limiting, in a way. Best to stick with Bit Coal; it "cokes up" nicely and allows for proper forging.

@@IronsInTheFire-Official right on, thanks. Yay

Might scare the water back up to the roof! :D haha

Most definitely! :)

Lol 😆

Nah, not really. I take care to keep coal pulled back near the hopper and any loose coke away from the firepot. Has served me well.

Gah! SAME!

You got it :) I was so hot I could've been calling the grass blue and thought nothing of it haha Thanks for hanging out!

Thanks!

Man, the 2"x4" is a great idea! Thanks for bringing that up :) and thanks for watching!

Many thanks!

Yes for sure! I've done that too; sometimes cedar sticks, sometimes little pieces of pine kindling also :) Thanks for watching!

Anthony, hey there! You're gonna hate the next video (pt.2) where we had to repair a drain with open seams literally today! Rooted 3ft in from the un-needed elbow seam. You will probably also hate to hear about the many drains we've replaced or even abandoned due to the perforated pipe being severely rooted. Also, trying to move downspout water away from the home with a perforated pipe is not doing what you need it to do. But best wishes! And thanks for learning! :)

Thanks for watching! In my years I've never seen roots enter that weep hole, surprisingly. But I've dragged out roots up to 2 inches diameter & several feet long from open seams and splits. I do agree the corrugated will hold small debris more, but it really doesn't effect much, since loose debris will flush down anyway. I actually encourage folks to go with PVC pipes usually but don't make a big deal of it when it's not in a high traffic area (like this one). Walkways/ driveways/ through concrete, you just gotta use pvc. Thanks again!

@@IronsInTheFire-Official Yeah no problem! I really appreciate simple, shorter, no bs videos with real info from folks that know that they're talking about and can explain it well. Also you even are kinda joking around while doing it to boot! This actually might make me push my drain job a bit sooner since I'm now realizing I don't have to run the drain all the way out to the road/gutter and 10 or so feet will be far enough away from our foundation.

Glad it was helpful!

Glad it can help! Thanks for checking it out :)

Little bit of both. It does work nicely on a post at 7' 4" (first time we tried it). This 4ft is just the demo method of course but I soon plan to give it a go on that full post (9'8"). I think I accidentally edited out where I mentioned this method is probably good up to maybe 10ft or so but beyond that you'll need multiple pieces and laps. Plus, this works best on a true & plumb post. If it's twisting/bowed, that might make it a bit hairy haha Thanks for checking it out!

Why didn't you just use a siding tool to lock it in? Seems like it would work a lot easier instead of hammering it why don't you use a C-clamp with some kind of flat metal so that way you don't cause the little dents and divots from the hammer

@joelaltman697 That could probably work too :) There's a good bit of tension locked up to it and it takes some pulling to get it wrapped round the corner. the mallet makes easy work of it; I'm barely hammering. My earlier test piece I caused a few dings, but this one came out clean (and stayed that way for over a month) until I finally took it down. I'm still hoping to make a video of the whole post one day, just hard to get around to these projects outside of work.

It was a learning experience for sure. Just years of seeing it done with nails and manufactured products and thinking, man this is gotta be possible! Haha Thanks for watching!

Brother I appreciate that; thanks for your words and thanks for watching!

Yeahp, vinyl coil would do perfect 👌 And I agree, could wrap with house wrap beforehand. I know it does say so, I've advised some curious contractors about the warning as a liability cover but I've literally never seen a real world example of the deterioration, in the wild. I've seen galvanic corrosion plenty from differing metals though... just still waiting on the treated material to aluminum thing. Truth is, I hope to come across it so I can photo the conditions I find it in. Also, yeah I figure this is good up to maybe 7-8ft of post... beyond that, you're gonna have to lap it and run a big length and it just seems unweildy... but the 7.5ft posts we'd done originally weren't bad at all. Thanks Austin!!

@@IronsInTheFire-Officialyea same here, 15 years + experience and I’ve never seen corrosion from wrapping aluminum on PT. It’s because of the paint. If you have scratches and bare metal then I could see how maybe eventually it could happen if you wrapped a soaking wet fresh post but usually we are wrapping old posts to update them and they are very dry. No risk.

Makes sense; would work I think :)

@@IronsInTheFire-Official a carpet roller will work better.

Did some previous work with customer that wanted the wood protection (carpenter bees..) and wanted it color matched to soffit work. Also protects the wood from water splash if it's near an edge... treated or not, that water will eventually wear the wood out. Sadly lol

@@IronsInTheFire-Official Yes, I wondered about water, but I also wondered about things like ants. But it's almost impossible to protect against everything.

Thanks!

Sounds like a plan... :)

I agree! We had fun making it too :)

Man, it's wild...I swear it's green not on camera! Lol

Right?!

Now I've got to do 2 more of these!

Thank you 🙌