วีดีโอ

Too bad our Dread brother couldn't join us for that one as well!

I might have to as well. ...and I don't even play 40K!

Onward to victory brother!

10/10 Would be woken from my slumber again.

Dreadnought said "Afraid not."

"Think Fast, Chucklenuts!"

Das konk krete

100%

This clearly represents the power of the Emperor's will against the forces of chaos!

No worries brother, we still have 38K years for the Emperor's arrival!

Glad to reaffirm your faith brother!

Dreadnoughts and lame don't belong in the same sentence you heretic. Don't you dare badmouth Rylanor and Huron-Fal.

@@praiza1481 I *used* to think they were lame. Not anymore.

@@sunbreakerqueenofbronze621 "I'm sorry Lord Inquisitor, I used to be a heretic but not anymore, you don't have to Exterminatus my entire planet I swear"

IN THE NAME OF THE EMPEROR, I CAST YOUR MISGUIDED THOUGHTS DOWN

Father always knows best! Onward brother!

Ye3s it does brother!

@@thanumgaming Not just any rock. A statue of the Emperor.

This game is full of so many similar moments. Absolute blast of a game!

Yeah, I thought the climax was it spawn camping the Chaos Portal. Then, when jt said that and killed the dragon, and I nutted again.

100%

More options for tires and wheels.

yeah, wtf

I kept checking for this update vid as you said a few days ago. 👍🏻

All of the linkage is as tight as it can be without stripping the parts out. Part of the problem with the linkage in general is all the ball ends are plastic. Which end up wearing. However, I did an all new aluminum steering bellcrank and ball ends last summer and have maybe 10 packs through it since, so the wear is minimal. I'm thinking about grabbing some aftermarket aluminum hub carriers and bearings to help tighten things up as well. There will always be some play in these things but yeah that slop out at the wheel itself is no bueno! Maybe I'll talk to a friend about machining some custom shaft ends and mess with changing the bearing sizes inside the hub carriers. Hmm...

Hey Luke, not that I know of, however I have only done the mod with the Traxxas parts. Funny you comment as I am about to film and upload a "2 years later" update on the mod. Hang tight a few days for that before deciding if you want to do it or not. It still works and hasn't broke, but there is some wear and tear. Which I'll show in the video.

@@thanumgamingThanks for the update, I look forward to the video.

Stock or after this upgrade? Does the steering servo make any noise? Check your steering rate adjustment (knob on transmitter), or possibly something came loose up front like the servo horn.

Good point. I didn't even think about it. I physically centered it before even filming the video to make sure and it was only a tooth or two off luckily. The steering has been working well. Thanks for checking out the vid.

You know the deal Bigdogg!! haha Thanks for checking out the video. Things are finally thawing up north, time to bust 'em out soon!

So far so good! It definitely tightened things up a bit and the new servo is definitely a bit more responsive. Unfortunately, it didn't take ALL of the slop out, but that's next to impossible with these designs and plastic parts. A definite improvement overall though and everything is more durable and less likely to break when I run it into my legs at full speed! 🤣🤣

Great! Have ya taken it out for a rip yet? I got a set of road tires for mine recently and noticed it cogs slightly at take off, so will drop a couple teeth on the spur to fix that.

@@thanumgaming It's been dumping here in the bay area, hopefully I can get it out this week. Might have to try the pavement tires, sounds cool!

@@cxwrench1 Gottcha. The pavement tires I went with are the Duratrax Banditos. Part number DTXC5270. Best of luck!

@@thanumgaming Thanks for the info!

Hey buddy, I painted them. Cleaned thoroughly with hot soapy water, primed, then painted. The spring coils have flaked off a bit here and there due to the nature of the flex. I've since replaced the entire shock units with GPM aluminum body shocks.

Uuh ooh! Thanks for the feedback I will definitely keep an eye on it. Was it an issue of a weak spring or would the teeth strip out type deal?

@@thanumgaming I’ve seen bad reviews in a few different places. One example is Amain hobbies: check the feedback in the review section of that servo saver. The stated specific problems they had with the design of the HR servo saver. Hopefully the bellcrank is designed better because that is something I’ve been interested in swapping. Cheers

Thanks! Congratulations on the new truck! Do you have other vehicles as well or will this be your first? They are fun trucks. Wait till you pull the trigger with a 3s in it, these trucks move!

@@thanumgaming first one.! a couple of my buddies have them and we have a dirt track close by. Had no idea how cool it all is.

@@EDDIETYPER That's great! Welcome to the hobby! Be sure to follow the main rule, are you having fun? Then you're doing it right! It really is a great community overall. Eventually you'll come to a very hard question about it though... what one do I buy next?! 🤣🤣

Very true. I have left it alone thus far as the diameter only changed approx 1-2mm and I usually only run 2S in it. However, I am always monitoring the electronics for heat.

DocJ! Thanks man, I hope you and the crew are well!

You are correct. I did realize that after the video and felt like a bozo. haha Thanks for stopping by and checking out the vid. I just did a steering upgrade in the Senton and will be uploading that video soon.

So the way it works in full size cars is, when you go up in tire size only, it'll increase your top end but slowly kill your "off the line". That's when you gear accordingly to make up for the tire size difference. Like I remember when I used to run mud trucks, for up to 33" or so tires, you'd usually want a 3:73 - 4:10/1 33"-36" was usually 4:102 and then above 35" tires was 4:56 or above. Of course multiple other factors like, power band of the engine, intended running surfaces and conditions, etc. ... but yes a larger wheel will increase your top speed and slowly kill off the line. That can also generate more heat in the motor since it's working harder (undergeared) at take off, and running max RPM and high end). So as always, finger test the motor every so often. If you can't keep your finger on it for more then 3-5 seconds without getting burned it's getting too hot. You can't go wrong with the 12mm wheel options out there as well. I just went 17mm for the extra overall strength.

@@thanumgaming Thanks for the info! I'm not good with math, so apparently I'll have to learn an equation or two. :) I had not considered that the 17mm would be an inherently stronger tire for the added mass of the material. In my case, I'm with the star wars R2 -D2 builders club, so have a very specialized angle on the RC hobby. One of the guys in the club realized the Senton was perfect for one of the minor droids from the movies. So rather than an RC truck shell that weighs no more than an ounce or so, we are strapping 3-5lb plastic totes to the chassis. I went with the 6S stats for the added power with a 14tooth pinion on the 2050kv motor run by the blx185 esc. The stock pinoin is 20tooth on the 6S (iirc) so am thinking by going down on tooth count for torque, I reckon to use smaller wheels to increase the speed (down the road when I get to that upgrade and see how it performs as is). I've barely run the thing with all the converting I've been doing, but the one or two test runs have been exhilerating to see this thing move. I just can't believe the modern technology compared to when I was a kid in the '70's. Mind-blowing stuff!

@@GearsMcTinkersome Once you get it, charge a battery and test it before changing gears. You will be surprised just how much power and torque that has out of the box. That sounds awesome though as far as the project you intend to use it in. I've been a SW fan ever since seeing the first one in the theaters.

@@GearsMcTinkersome Just subscribed to your channel and see you've been busy at work on things! Awesome!

@@thanumgaming I couldn't use hte stock pinioin as the bore diameter didn't match the new 2050kv motor 1 mod to 0.8 mod. :( But I'll be messing around with different pinons over time to see how many teeth are practical under what circumstances.

They are held in place by a threaded pin that holds the hub onto the axle shaft itself. Thus far it has held up and the screws have not backed out. I'm about to do a full steering upgrade on this truck as well to help tighten up the front end. Keep an eye out for the video in the next week or so.

Yeah the front ends do get lose.

Congrats on your new rig! It's a solid upgrade for sure. I just got the parts to do a total steering overhaul in the Senton as well. Be sure to keep an eye out for that video in the next week or two. Thanks for stoppin by!

Thank you for the input. I have actually purchased a new microphone since then. That was with an old setup over a year ago.

Your volume is absolutely fine!

I did notice a bit, however these always have some slop in the front end in general. Especially after a couple seasons of bashing. On yours, do you mean "wobble / diameter" slop, "in/out axle stub movement" slop? For the later, maybe some small very thin washers in there to take up the space?

@@thanumgamingAppreciate you taking the time to reply back! What I think I'm going to do is machine some aluminum rod, thread the middles so i can screw them on the axles and slide the hexes over them to fill that space then no slop or wobble. But you are right on all the slop all over the truck lol

Indeed!

It saves the gears, a sheared pin is alot cheaper than a new diff set