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Why not just use the factory risers and install a different handlebar?

This is probably the best "useful" mod I've seen in awhile. TY.

You can jack up the right side with the bike on the kickstand high enough to change the front wheel..

, i’m reaching my head on fit is there a longer built that goes in the bearing, then through the long plastic tube and then onto the crash bar

Where did you get those roller balls from at the end of year crash bars?

Funniest video I've seen in a long time

There clean

It Looks Great ‼️

Hi there are those indicator light amber been trying find a CVO rear fender for my 09 StreetGlide

Looks cool, but also a pain to keep clean

pretty awsome

Excellent video - Fixed my dryer for $12 and have a full set of fuses for later.

No filler plate?

I have the same bike and the steering head bearing were bad and it was very hard to remove those races.

Which horn is that? Is there an install video that I missed??

I looked at those a10’s but when I saw the price and I called my local Harley dealership and he told me the price for labor I said nope that’s ok

Nice vid I bought some riser’s from Amazon for my Kawasaki Vulcan even though they said they would fit, wouldn’t you know they lied, kind of heart broken but hey back to the drawing board, those look nice and comfortable 👌🏾

wow. that is awesome. you said the factory light was heavy how about the a10? is it lighter?

Tell me you support pedos without telling me you support pedos

This screams “I support pedos”

Can’t believe people are still buying products from A10… same company, same owners, the kid just sold off shares when they changed the name. Stop deleting comments that make you look bad. Maybe it would have been easier to not support pedos

Looks super rad bro

Nice ..I love the gold. whose bike is this!? is this your new bike? Did you replace your burnt bike?

Looks wicked cool

Pretty sick!

Does that pin just pull out or do you have to grind it down.

Hi sr I have a cuestión, any idea how to replace the neutral switch in 2006 yamaha road start 1700cc

Did the engine light go out on its own?

Are you sure those are High Bend bars??

How tall is the rider at the end of the video?

If you grew up bmx’ing and moto x theres nothing like that setup it feels like home.

***NO CLUTCH OR BRAKE LINE MODIFICATIONS WERE DONE***

looks like he has skateboard wheels all over it.

Did you need to do anything with cables? They were long enough?

We love Sawicki Speed. That is why we carry them on our website. Excellent performance, sound, lifetime warranty and made in America.

My 24 RG came from the factory with the rings all the way to the top and locked. It’s nearly impossible to get them separated in this position. And the tool is garbage, it slips out of the groove easily. So, to help getting the spring ring down, it helps to also rotate the spring while turning the ring.

Trying to see how I can put this on my SV1000 sportbike

you can never have enough light and I think it also improves one mood maybe thats why people are always trying to improve it

Perfect. Quick and easy.

thanks for this video. Great job. I'm just figuring out if my Royal Star needs a clutch replacement, or just needs to be topped up and have the clutch bled... I've got the XVL13LT (either 97 or 99 conflicting info), so I'm trying to learn.

I know this was 3 years ago but I just bought a 97 1300 tour classic so looking for upgrades

Funny I just got a 1997 yamaha xvz1300 ryl str tour cls that’s how I just found this video

Awesome mod! Next time try a step drill, it will work much better/easier!

I've had the sylde king for like 3 years lmao still works great an I've beat that thing

Thanks, saved me a little time.

Awsome video I just did it on my black on black 24 RG. Looks oem. Home run. Thankyou

My old thermostat had a jumper and no C wire. I located 4 extra wires in the same cable and freed up a blue one which I connected to C. In my unit downstairs I connected the blue wire to C. Do I still need to use a jumper on the new thermostat?

Perfect!! Thank you!

I have the same 3d printed adapter plate for the custom dynamics plate holder. It works great and much better looking than that hideous conglomeration from harley.

when I was a Honda motorcycle dealership mechanic. A bulletin came from Honda in Japan to all the mechanics. when it comes to installing dry paper gaskets. Get a can of rust, oleum, silver aluminum paint that you apply with a brush, do not stir the can, after your surfaces are cleaned and prepped and clear of any gasket material, get something like a popsicle stick and scrape some of the thick goo at the bottom of the paint can on the stick. That is what you want the thick, gooey non-stirred, non-mixed, non-shaken stuff from the bottom of the can. Apply that to both sides of the gasket and install it in place wet. not only will that gasket not leak, the aluminum in the paint will not plug oil passages like silicone can, and the next time you have to pull that Cover off, that gasket will not stick to either side and it will not rip. You won’t have to buy another gasket. I have the same can of rust oleum silver aluminum paint that I bought when I was a mechanic in 1974 that I use just to coat dry gaskets, such as head, gaskets, valve, cover gaskets, side, cover gaskets. I have owned for moto guzzi motorcycles, you check the valves on those things quite often. It only takes 30 minutes start to finish to pull the valve covers and check the clearance when the engine is cold. I was changing my oil and checking the valves every 2000 miles. I never had to buy a replacement set a valve cover gaskets after I treated the first set with the aluminum rust oleum paint… I had a dual sport KLR 650, Those machines have a primary chain tensioner that is problematic, if not adjusted properly. It can literally destroy the engine. The replacement upgrade part is called a Doohickey. That is what it is called, I didn’t name it, anyone that has had a KLR 650. is aware of that part and it’s nickname. When I was at the dealer, buying oil, oil, filter, spark plug when I first bought my used KLR. I asked for a side cover gasket for the area of the engine. I would be disturbing to get access to the chain tensioner.. that side cover was not that large, I’m guessing it was around 8 inches from one side to the other roughly. That paper gasket back around 2010 was $58. That’s just for one paper gasket add a Kawasaki dealer… I told the parts man to hold the gasket. I’ll be back if I need it. with the price of gaskets and other things, everyone, I’m sure is aware of, if you can eliminate having to buy gaskets for commonly serviced areas of your engine, and never having to scrape, scrape, scrape, baked on gaskets again, scraping parts of the aluminum off, it’s a pain in the ass. I have spent more time on some engines, scraping gaskets, then it took to do the rest of the engine rebuild… One question about this Barnett clutch upgrade. My Yamaha royal star venture, my third Yamaha, Venture since 1986, I’ve never had to replace a clutch, not even in my 1986 Yamaha Venture royale with 138,000 miles on it when I sold it. What is the clutch pull pressure like with this Barnett clutch? The clutch is not easy to pull in relative to other motorcycles on my ventures. I change my brake fluid every two years at least, and I clean and lube, the pivot and the pushrod bushing several times a season with White lithium, grease, which is a extreme pressure low speed Greece. As I mentioned in a few of my maintenance, TH-cam videos on the Venture’s, Greece is not grease… Greece is very specific these days, such as wheel bearing grease. You have to get wheel bearing grease made for high speed, spindles with disc brakes for cars these days, not just wheel bearing grease. You use a special grease for the driveshaft splines at the yoke on the universal joint, use a different grease all together in the wheel bearings, use a different grease completely in the steering head bearings. and in the swingarm bearings. White lithium grease is what you use on your front brake and clutch levers… that is a long reach for the clutch lever on the Venture .. I don’t have small hands, but I end up contacting the lever with just the last joints of my fingers, and after a long day of back, road clutching, my hands can feel it. So I keep that clean and lubed. I would definitely not want heavier springs in my clutch.. I installed heavier, clutch springs in one of my road racing machines years ago, during the race, I ended up, snapping off the posts in the clutch basket because of the heavier springs.. do the tabs for the friction plates beat up the clutch basket? I have seen clutch baskets get dents in them from the tabs on the friction plates. I’ve had to replace clutch baskets on several of my dirtbike‘s over the years because of the clutch basket being damaged by the standard OEM clutch plates on machines where I had to abuse the clutch a lot in the tight woods… The symptoms for dents in the clutch basket is pulling the clutch in, and the clutch does not always disengage. Those tabs sticking up through the slots in the clutch basket, can’t slide through the main groove, it gets caught in the little dents that the tabs put in the clutch basket… does this Barnett clutch actually work better than a stock clutch. Yamaha upgraded the standard clutch from the 1200 cc Venture to the Vmax style clutch in 1986. I’ve never heard of anyone having a clutch problem on the Venture’s or the Vmax - unless, they use the wrong oil with friction, modifier’s, as in, today’s automobile specific oil’s.. Good video, good camera work, nice job