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@Motokyerd why wouldn't it be? You will still have hi and low beam if you do it the same way. These lights use projectors with solenoids in them that move a flap up and down depending on if you are asking for hi or low beam, low beam just has a nice clean cutoff so as to not blind on coming vehicles. If anything I feel it's safer to have more light always on. And if you want this allows you to shut them off completely during the day or at night while parked (any time really but not smart to run with no headlights)

Thanks, it was originally one of those FML type of things like it's all they had when I walked in, but after I decided that it was way better to run this Way, so much easier to get my fingers over the lever for the brake ya know and holding it for any length of time like at stop lights makes the long clutch super worth it. The only other way I would go is both shorty but if you gotta have a full length one definitely go with the clutch, two fingers is enough to do a stoppie on this bike

Yes I did, twistedsocal

Not sure which map it is or was at this point but yup, as long as you are riding a zx10RR or the SE. The normal zx10R (abs, krt etc... doesn't matter) uses a different ecu

If your not on the forums join, same user name

alright man i will try it out thanks man

@@twistedsocal hey man im looking at your map now i saw that you have a different ignition timing is this what makes it smooth? and how much min rpm are u running?

Yeah? I wasn't making it with anyone in mind man, just figured I would make it. I don't have followers and am not trying to get them. If it is that painful you are welcome to not watch it. I don't think I have watched it since I made it. Well I just now did, ok yeah it is shaky isn't it. My bad. Still if it kills you that much don't watch. And yeah I'm super fucking slow about talking etc. I was pretty damn new to using all this shit. I have it down a ton more now but hey gotta start somewhere. I initially planned on recording everything I did on the bike and editing it together but I got over that shit after the first few hours of video I went through. I have multiple Tb of footage of mods to the bike that will probably never get edited or even kept at this point but most on GoPro hero7black idk this looks like my phone

Honestly man, the shorty levers are soooo much better. Still ASV makes both short and long, they do custom levers as well. Just go online to Asv inventions and order what you need. You pick the color of the lever, the roller adjuster deal and the type ie forged or milled, both are off the charts when it comes to quality especially over OEM levers. It is one of those things where you get what you pay for that's for damn sure. They warrant the levers against all defects and even against damage caused by you, ie low side high side or other bike defacing maneuver. 5 years I believe it is, and they stand behind that, trust I have put it to the test.

Also, the short levers actually give you better control, it allows you to use two fingers at all times and the geometry of asv's products ensure that even a frail human can apply enough force via the leverage of the levers. Why go with long ones, you are not supposed to ride with your hands on the outside of the grips and there is just no way your hand is that fat as to actually take up the entire hand grip area. The long levers make you have to either curl or crunch your fingers up to get over them where the shorty setup allows you to keep a finger or two on them and if you for some wild reason(wanna do a stoppie at 100 maybe) you feel u need more pull force all you do is open your other fingers and they go right past the end of the lever to easily and quickly grab hold and add more stopping force. It's definitely quicker and easier. It is also way better looking but again it's personal preference in the end. Most people go with shit Chinese levers that will break if the bike is dropped or even mid braking on the freeway, the anodizing will fade or chip(should never be able to actually chip but I have seen what sure looks like chipping) and or the things will have way too much or too little play, not adjustable and if they are very limited, there is a reason they can offer such a killer warranty on the levers. They almost never have to actually do a warranty replacement.

@@twistedsocal that's good to know. Do you know if the rmv or dmv will not allow non factory grips to take the license test? Jw.

the california DMV could give half a fuck less, dont know and cant for sure say about any other state but typically our dmv tends to set the mood for how stupid the rest of them will be about things, take it for what it is but i bet they dont care and even if they did, tell me how they can tell one way or the other, really its a comfort thing, if they dont work for you then change them to ones that do right, no one but you will care or know most of the time.@@MattyDemello

Lol yeah I sure as hell was, managed to start a full enclosure too, since then we moved, my printer was crushed by a dipshit tossing an 80 lb box right on top of it and cause it is mostly printed abs for the print head it was down for a cool min, I ended up buying an flsun SR, I LOVE IT😍, no seriously the SR is sick but still not what the Merc one. 1 can be. I ran 4z axis but am now upgrading to ball screws and 3*z axis for quicker auto leveling and less chance to bend the bed, upgraded to the octopus pro so I can run 60v (think nema 23, that's my thoughts at least) anyhow, now it's got the H2 lite extruder and hot end with the . 06 hardened nozzle. Already has the bi metal heat break, the enclosure is now aluminum sheet metal panels for high temps. Wanna make them be able to slide in and out, if low temp I don't need them, high temp will sag the acrylic so definitely need them then. Basically it's set up to easily hit 500c hot end temps, 180c is my max chamber temp oh I added a heater element with fan for heating the chamber actively. Pretty sure my motors and any printed parts will fail at those temps, so am working on replacing plastic with aluminum and or adding liquid cooling to the motors that have to stay in side the printer. Also redesigned the way the top opens and closes. Am tempted to make it power operated. Oh and I got an orange pi um 5 I think, it has 16 gig of ram, 256 emmc 3.1 solid state storage on board, multiple USB type c ports, multiple HDMI and camera interfaces and wifi 6(AX) PLUS 2.5g Ethernet port. It's pretty loaded for a SBC for sure. I'm debating using it vs the bigtreetech pad7 I bought. The pad 7 is chill but lags a lil and I kinda don't want to deal with lag, plus I like to run octoprint and klipper at the same time. Just like having max options and love klipper screen but still octoprint has some functionality klipper doesn't have via its native interfaces. Enough ramble, it's worth it dude, seriously though it's a rabbit hole your taking head first if you build this out

Yes, I probably can, I'm in upland if you wanna ride over to me some time soon I can plug it in and see what there is to see, sound good

If not, there are remote options and I don't mind helping out a fellow rider, especially a ZX10 rider lol

@@twistedsocal I took it to a person to Dyno tune in Camarillo but the choppy ness is still there so took it back if it’s still back I can send you the tune possibly to see what’s wrong with it?

Choppy ness is still there what settings would I need to change to fix the choppy ness in my bike and not mess with anything else 5k-6.5k slow throttle super choppy

@@Kenevoslcomp777 can you post a vid with the bike doing what your describing? if you just mean on and off throttle choppiness then yes this bike is ride by wire so will be like that until you gain or develop much greater throttle control so im guessing thats not the issue so i need to see and hear it to be able to help ya

you just need to turn on decel fuel cut and there are settings to not count off throttle towards the cell info so you can dial it in pretty close

I'm not sure, you wanna run this map??? I'm pretty damn sure if you look at any of my map shares the iap map is pretty much the same, that's the part of the map that makes the bike idle and not hunt. That and a few more options but basically unify the fueling across the cylinders, and jack your idle speed up to around 1600 rpm is the key with these bikes. Lean it out a touch above idle but at idle it needs to sit a touch on the rich side to help keep it cool and stay smooth, that way when u twist the throttle you don't get a studer cause it tries to dump too much fuel. What year you have, take it it's a gen 5 so 16 through 18 right. And u got an RR correct? If you want I'll take a look over your map if you want

I have 2018 10r se. Currently sitting at 191 hp 84 torque. Haven’t messed too much with lope of idle other then adding 100 rpm so at 1300/1350 I can’t remember but didn’t seem to help and saw your video and wanted to see what you had done

@@seangranahan3037 damn sorry took so long to respond. Go with a K&N race filter if your good about maintenance, if not ie you don't like pulling the bike apart to clean your filer often like every oil change or two(I change my oil at 2500-3500 miles and I run only motul 300v or 7100, they make a difference) anyhow if you can't or won't then just go with a normal k&n cause the race filter barley has any filter element action so it has to be kept well oiled to work right. BMC filters are good too but really they both are cotton media with sticky oil used to catch dirt and let air through, so I don't feel like paying more for the same performance ie K&N over BMC especially when k&n gives better results with the race filter vs BMC only having one skew at least when I bought. Oh block off plates/pair mod, using a permanent high flow oil filter too flo brand, helps keep oil cooler by a lil bit, also have an aftermarket radiator that flows better, keeps temps lower in general till it doesn't lol, run engine ice from VP and always run octanium (off road version only, 1/5 can per fill up) that probably boosts my octane level from 91 to 94ish I know it can raise it up to 8 whole numbers but 3 or 4 is fine for me. I have a 100 octane map as my medium power map, and another one as my low setting, pretty sure that the ignition is the same across all of them which is why it's changed at all. Anyhow if you want or need some help tuning it more hit me up, my email is my username at Gmail just change the title to ZX10 tune or help and I will actually get it as I have an alert for anything ZX10 in my email I for sure can help you out if your having trouble

Lol sorry not to clown but yeah if you have some sort of flashing ability vs if you just took the bike in. Usually the Dyno people lock down their tune or at least the less chill ones do. I figure if you paid for it you should have access to it, don't you.. let me know what your bikes flash setup is, ftecu or woolich which is what i use and we can probably fix the hunting at idle crap. That or do what i would do and take it back in, explain that the rough idle is not ok and you want it to run and idle smoothly. Trust when u say there isn't much that changing the iap map will do, granted there is a difference but not as much as working the other one. And the iap map is the map that causes the hunting idle

Hey man did you get it fixed? If not I'll help you out, I have helped probably 20 different people who have hit me up cause of one of the few videos I posted on here and while in not an expert on this shit by any stretch I definitely can get a tune dialed in. Anyhow sorry bout my first response I hate it when that's the results of paying someone, having a bike that runs messed up, fyi if you change the iap map back to stock it will idle normally again, quickest fix but will cost you a lil bit of low end throttle response and some acceleration if the tube managed to give you gains in the bottom end of your rpm range. Then you gotta weigh the two hunting and stuttering vs running smooth but with a lil less oomph down low or you know use stock iap and adjust the parts off idle but leave the actual idle rpm alone

Hello bro thanks allot for your reply I have only just seen this . I did not get a notification. I have recently got WOOLICH and I have just copying you iap map from the zx10r forum I will be testing my bike tomorrow so I will get back to you have it gets on , thanks a lot for sharing this information

I was experimenting going richer in the iap then after loading your map I was so surprised it was actually set leaner I feel confident now this will work

I have a gen 5 but it's almost identical in terms of install have you got your lights from them yet

Hey thanks, you guys stay on top of pretty much all things involving your products being mentioned on line, very impressive, definitely good business practices. My first 3d printer ever was a q5, and I loved it but it was a tad small for my needs, I sold it and got the ender 5 plus, but it printed pretty slow and was a pain to keep calibrated. A bit over $1000.00 later I now have a beast of a corexy machine but it still requires tuning. That's why I got the SR... And man I love it, but to be completely honest, I'm super bummed I couldn't afford the new v400. As far as an off the shelf machine goes, I think it checks nearly every possible box. Sadly, money is super tight so I doubt I will ever get one.. I can only imagine how great it would be to use for rapid prototyping, my corexy is fast but no way I would try and push it to 400mm/s. I built it for high temp stuff like peek and peck. If I had a v400 I would use it as my main daily driver to print everything short of the 300 plus Celsius filaments. It even prints flexible well am I correct? Being that it has a direct drive extruder? I would love to add a robot arm or other way to automate one and have it work around the clock. Oh well. Took me 2 years to get the SR maybe I'll get the v400 way late too. Thanks for the reply and thanks for the great product. Just wish it came with wifi

@@twistedsocal Yes. not only is the V400 faster, up to 400mm/s, but it can also print on soft consumables such as TPU. the V400's built-in firmware klipper is capable of printing via a WiFi connection. We hope that sometime in the future you can get your own V400. Of course, we are also working on updates and upgrades to try to provide you with a better product.

@@flsun3dprinter qiuestion to you guys over at FLSUN, can i put the effector from the v400 on the super racer as long as I updated the firmware to match the esteps etc and re did the nozzle pid stuff? will it fit? if not do you sell a direct drive option for the SR?

are one of my rats in the video? Lol, they get excited about almost everything. I love this brush, Have since gotten all the size fan tips to go with it. I use it mainly to do bodypainting. the trigger makes it so much easier

So I've been doing this for a long time working the marijuana industry have lots of access to distillate etc. I use smok cloud beast king or coils. Ccel coils and even the honey tank coils don't do what this does. This lets me vape uncut distillate at power levels up to 150 watts. It's more potent of a hit than a dab and it's portable. Coils are cheap, the key is to expose the coils heating element to the oil. Then start heat the oil before filling the tank. Once it's done, start at a low wattage like 50. Cook it for about 15 seconds then wait. After that the coil is loaded. U can take bong style hits til the tank is dry gets the job done quick as hell

Also the quartz tanks have to be kept upright or leak and or spill so no good and can't hold shit for volume. 6ml in a king tank. Run anything over 85% and your on your ass in less than 3 hits if u have iron lungs. Gotta not get scared and have to pull hard or it gets harsh but if u hit it like it's a 3 foot bong it will kick your ass

Yes, they do, the demon eyes only shut down the low beams, if you have the high beams on the demon eyes are off or at least you can't see them but the turn signals still work so I'm sure they work with just the demon eyes on. Actually yes they have to cause the drl are still on when the demon eyes are on so there is still a fair amount of light coming out the front of the bike. I really wish the drl were RGB so that we could set them to the same or a contrasting color or even dim them down when the demon eyes/low beam kill switch is activated. For now though yes turn signals work, no matter the high low or demon eye settings. Fyi there are no angel eyes which is a bummer but can't get everything at least not yet. If they ever come out with a new version I would recommend they add RGB settings for the demon eyes, at least white or a single color angel eye setting one that will run even with the headlights on (low beam at least) doubt they would be visible on high setting but who knows the lights are always the same brightness it's just the cut off they use to change from high to low so maybe. But RGB drl for when the demon eyes are on as well would be pretty rad. Anyhow like I tell everyone. They are cheaper than just the empty housing fro. Kawi so if your stock setup is scratched or cloudy then this is the way to go period and if you just want a sick upgrade with both lights always running all the time with led ultra bright lights and massive heat sinks this is the way to go. Really any headlight upgrade short of just wanting to drop under 100 to try and do it yourself ( won't come out right without at least buying hi/lo projector deals cause the light won't focus and will just be everywhere blinding everyone else) then this is the way to go. It's easy to do the mods yourself but to get proper headlights and projectors is gonna run you upwards of 4 or 500 dollars, to add demon eyes can be done cheap with basic LEDs but hiding the wiring is a pain and getting them this bright is just as much a pain. Getting proper focus with projectors is also a pain then toss drl that work as turn signals and your looking at another 45 to 80 bucks, not to mention the whole hiding those wires and making sure not to melt or warp the assembly etc. Which is easy as hell to do if you get distracted quick style. And then getting everything waterproof again is a pain and actually not as easy as one would think so cost wise to get the same setup is maybe a couple hundred cheaper but to get it working or looking this good at that price and with no leaks and or exposed wires is damn near impossible. This setup solves all the headaches of diy that I usually would do. Glad I went this route this time

As far as headlight options go for the zx10r, this comes with drl and integrated turn signals so you can even delete your stock mirrors and stay street legal if that's a concern, plus the headlight kill switch so that the demon eyes work, wish it had angel eyes/halos since that's the only thing it's lacking. Even the heatsinks in the rear are good enough to keep the light outputting high lumens, you will need to adjust them a tad high for optimal low beam distribution but they look sick once done

@Josh Hall awsome dude thanks for all the info appreciate it 😎👊I have a lat 2015 30 anniversary edition and seen a pick with the green demon eyes and it looks sick 👌deffo on my radar 🔥from uk, also I'm finding it hard to find a reliable source or company to purchase them from any ideas

@@08dangler this headlight setup? Kt moto is the only place I know of. Look at it like this, pay KT around 650 or 700 and get all the stuff plus an entire new housing with perfect lenses and projectors, integrated turn signals and drl for about 100 less than just buying a new housing from kawi, kinda a no brainer to me . Do they not want to ship to the UK? I imagine there are some hefty taxes right? When I bought my abba skylift it came from the UK and I think that jacked the price a bit

@Josh Hall the website I was on was a bit dodgy none of the links or drop downs work will try again much appreciated pal 😎👊

@@08dangler damn sorry i just saw this, I hope you managed to pick up a set, I should have told you that they sell them on ebay as well

Dude, I know I did, however I went ahead and sprayed all of the wires with black liquid electrical tape so can't tell you what color I used. It's super easy to know though cause it would be the wires that go up into the mirrors on my bike. I have a gen 5 though. Earlier gen bikes if your unsure just trace the wire back from the signals. And use the negative wire I believe. Crap it's been a min since I did this. Get those vamp taps(vampire or t taps, they clamp down over a wire so you don't need to cut and splice then leave you a male blade terminal to plug a female into) then if you get it wrong, no big deal, put one on the other wire and your good, since u didn't cut the wire no issues to worry about

@@twistedsocal hey man. Thanks for getting back to me. I figure it out and wire it all up correctly My issue now is that the low beam cut off line is really low. The instructions I have are really poor too. To raise the level of the low beam I think I have to adjust the three golden bolts at the back of the unit. However when I turn them all to the right it hardly raises the level at all…. Am I doing the right thing? Was your low beam giving you good vision? Mine is nice and bright it’s just pointing down too much. Stock lights were at a much better height

@@twistedsocal Thanks for the reply dude! I got them working, I used one of those clamp splices. The lowbeam cut off line is quite low. I've adjusted it as high it goes as well. Did you face the same issue with yours? It's lower than the stock lights low beam line. The lights are definitely brighter but not being able to project them as high is fucking aids

@@ectes so I agree that the low beam line does seem a tad close but really bro, when ever you corner or it's dark enough that you are having difficulty seeing just flip your hi beams on. That's what I do. But yeah I really didn't need to adjust them much, I think it's cause of such a hard cut off that makes it seem a tad less effective then the stock beam that just floods everything but in that crap yellow light. You could possibly shim them at the top mount so it forces the assembly up a tad

@@twistedsocal Dude, youre an absolute legend for replying. Yeah, they’re a bit sucky in that respect. They’d be perfect if they were at stock height. Tbh, that’s what I was expecting. Shim? How would I go about doing that?

The ASV C5 BILLET LEVERS CAN BE ADJUSTED DAMN NEAR INFINITELY, sorry just noticed the caps, but really, you can adjust them too close where you won't get enough travel to get full brake force so be careful but yes they definitely can be adjusted away or towards, if you have small hands you can get shorty's for two finger braking and clutch action or a full length for full handed lever grabs, I find the later to be dangerous so only have a full length on my clutch so it's easy to hold in for longer time periods but either of them generates crazy force. The geometric layout of the lever action kinda amplifies what you would get from a stock lever

@@twistedsocal I agree. Thanks!

Yeah? Thank you for that, the motors in running right now do ok, but want to go a tad more efficient

"Please, which propeller is better for the Emax 2807 1700kv: 5045 or 7040? My drone weighs 1 kg and I use a 4S battery."

​5 inch propellers for high speed motor then 7 inch very suitable for 1700kv motor and you can check datasheet of this motor

Yeah, unless your cammed to the sky and the bike is cold, that's not ideal, my bike used to do that idle up and down search and seek style thing. It's definitely less than ideal...mafia and in that dude Chris who drags bikes? I guess if all you are after is straight line and high numbers his tune would be great. My issue with canned tunes is that they never actually match the bike. Even if you have all the same mods and broke it in the same and it's the same year etc, chances are the altitude or humidity or riding style or just the build tolerances are different. Ie. Your bikes stick fueling is different that the one next to it on the show room floor. They do it per cylinder at the factory and there is an offset to make up for slight weight and displacement differences of each bike. That is why I am all about either getting it dyno tuned (still not gonna match your riding style) or getting a wideband setup and tuning it yourself. If you want to get it dialed in and maxed out then some dyno time and then more street riding till it is smooth but still a monster when you go wot, daily ridability is an issue with some of the canned tunes and they have to compromise so that the bike runs and doesn't stall, what one can do the next might choke doing

That a suppressor for the rifle??? I'll check it out

Also I managed to get the slugs to go right through the plate like it isn't even there. I take the 300 grain slugs on my lathe and turn the tips down into sharp points. Now the slugs go right through, and still chip the cinder block behind it 10 foot back.. if I shoot the standard rounds they won't go through it's crazy how much difference the point makes

Holding up great, I thought I had an issue where my low beams were out but it was a wire that got snagged on my lower triple tree clamp after I installed a new racing radiator. I must have shifted stuff enough that it was able to do that. I have long since fixed that issue and have zero issues. No flickering like hid's, no delayed start, excellent cut off and beam pattern as well as extremely good throw. Throw in the integrated turn signals etc, demon eyes I still absolutely recommend getting these

That's pretty rad, not gonna lie, I have already had one of the two cutting heads stop cutting kevlar which is the main reason I purchased them, it's been just about a month or two maybe. No longer...kinda bums me out

@@twistedsocal Do you mean the cutting head is blunt after one or two months?

@@walowaloservice1844 yes, more like after 2 or 3 cuts....not months, I used it when I got it to make the video, to show that yes it would cut Kevlar which is why I bought them and figured showing others that they could would help sell more. But after doing 2 or 3 more cuts, total of maybe 3 yards worth of fabric, they will no longer cut the kevlar, they just get stuck, even with only one layer of fabric.

I'm actually pretty bummed out about it

Measurements, and trial and error. I had a small exhaust leak so it was a royal pain in the ass but I got it set. My wideband is shot now so can't even use the auto tune anymore which blows but I have a sweet tune on it for my setup now anyway and 5 or 6 others sitting on my laptop ready to load whenever I feel I need a change up

Yes cut out

2604 from what I learnt is too small for 7 inch. You get small shakes

Read above, on the iflight quad I'm running the 2806.5 1700kv6s on the Mr croc, I have yet to slap it together as I have been busy with way too many projects and have been trying to just enjoy flying this one.. had a broken connection on my full size crossfire transmitter and the drone fell out of the air from about 200 feet flat on the GoPro and shattered it to all hell so am using the mini Jr sized module right now and no GoPro as I don't want to destroy another one quite yet

Wow sounds like a bad crash. Glad you found it. That sucks with the gopro. I was just wondering if 1700kv on 6s is too much...

Well, I think I'm confused lol, this is snow in late May up at bogus basin in Idaho. We were staying up there for a few days and it was all dirt and green and trees when we got there earlier that evening. Mind you we live in orange county California so snow isn't something we often see except far away in the mountain tops through the smog or if we intentionally go the ski resort during the winter but again the is late May so winter is long gone and summer was knocking on the door.. so just a couple excited about some stuff that little kids get excited about, you know, appreciation for the wonders around us I guess.

Sarangheyo 🥺

So the stock lengths work, only reason you would need or want to change them is if you have auto tune installed and even then it usually is not necessary. Join the forums, I am on zx10r. Net and zxforums so there are tons of people there that discuss this stuff. Use the search function if your dead set on changing those settings.. the factory map for woolich is a zero map. It is just 100% stock settings. Usually depending on the year you will find the same map derestricted. So at max throttle at high rpm the etv is wide open vs partially closed. Then there are far more custom maps. You can pick and chose. Or cut and paste from one to the other to get round about a general place to work with, from there you gotta either Dyno or autotune or use your seat Dyno.. just be careful of the iap map, change that too much and idle will not hold or it will stall off high rpm to throttle off conditions... Also, since everyone seems to mount the O2 sensor in a slightly different spot it is likely u will have to take measurements with a string and some tape. It's not as hard as it seems but it is a very personal setting type of get down.. once you get the hang of it the bike and you will definitely find new limits. Best of luck, take it slow and read twice and baby steps.. it will let you make some crazy changes that can cause catastrophic damage if you get carried away so baby steps

On the left clipon right next to my normal high low switch. I wanna say I used the bracket as supplied but may have bent it.. still it works, kinda stands out but only cause I'm used to it not being there. No one else notices it

I finally wore them out, not sure how long they lasted but I guess you could look at the date I posted till about a month ago... I ride a lot more than most people, put 49k on my bike in just over 2 years. That's a shit ton of miles on these gloves vs my dianese 4strokes lasting all of 4 months for close to the same price. Besides, I don't really use my thumb much while riding so wasn't worried about articulation

@@twistedsocal I'm switching to these from my old 4 stroke gloves. Which do you prefer? I assume these if they lasted longer?

Yes high and low beam both on always

its all up under the front fairing in front of the gauges

Do you have Instagram or some way I can easily talk to you? I'm happy to help, we got the other guys stuff working after I sent him a video to show his mechanic

@@twistedsocal what’s ur Instagram

We got it! The harness came what I thought would have been plug & play but the ground and positive were crossed. Had to redo the harness opposite of how they had it connected factory to match up with wiring on the bike. It’s a 2011 zx10r I’m not sure why they would do that but after 6 fuses we are good! 👍🏼 lol thanks!

@@sarahcordova9559 I wanna say mine was like that too, kept not working but I just swapped em around and it's worked

@@sarahcordova9559 twistedsocal, even though I figured it out

No not at all, at first I thought my drl had issues cause they were flashing white instead of yellow when u turned on my blinkers but that's cause I was testing them with my bike shut off. Pretty much started bike left kickstand down and kicked it into gear, bike stops running but allows the headlights to stay on. They are so stupid bright it's wild and I can actually happily leave my lights set on low beam all the time... They are worth every single dollar paid for sure

@@twistedsocal Perfect! I'm definitely getting one now. I just never seen many reviews so I wasn't sure about them.

Hey im having issues installing mine for some reason i have only 2 big ballast and no wires for the DRL could u help out ?

@@xoticrydersm.c8466 sure you have the same bike or?

@@xoticrydersm.c8466 cause legit, it's super easy, the wires are labeled, turn signal wires are just bare wire, you kinda gotta figure that part out, let me go and pull my bike in the garage and take a quick vid and kinda walk you through it ok

Dude they always kick some butt

Idk off hand, I'm pretty sure I was using a cloud beast king tank and the tfv12 coil, the one that has a ton of small coils in it... I know it's sub ohm so low resistance and I know it really doesn't matter once you get into that territory, the point is all you have to do is remove enough metal from the coil housing to make a larger portion of the coil surface exposed to the distillate, then remove as much cotton as possible while still keeping the area between the individual coil windings walled off with the cotton... Leave a tiny bit of raw coil exposed, and when you press the button, the exposed coil metal will heat and liquify some of the distillate and will soak the cotton, allowing more distillate to melt and hit the coils. It's the best way I have found to get distillate to vape in a high wattage setup without needing to cut or dilute it.. I can run this thing at 150 watts but at anything over 120 it really does hit too damn hard to be worth doing.. it's like the perfect portable e bong. You can get hits like you ripped a 4 foot bong off this thing, it takes less than 2 seconds to get way to large a hit and usually that's all it takes to get you toasted.

Got you bro.