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Did you use the traxxas engine mount conversion kit, 4400??

It's really interesting that you did a pulley on a mill instead of a lathe. Being a round part I would have thought it would be done on a lathe, but if you have an accurate mill, why not do it on the mill ? Interesting to hear about issues with using job shops. I thought that Xometry and the other online machining sites were making those issues a thing of the past. Care to comment ?

Needs a 10 speed gear box now!

Need a radiator tanks done up for the jeep radiator so it wrks on my yxz and ur intercooler assembly

aww man i got my alternator kit early this month and my pully isn't nearly as cool

Where you located ? .I need a dyno tune on my yxz1000

Can't find nxs online now 😕

This looks like what happens when you run original fuel pump with motorsport regulators.

Could be a fake knock off from China. Alot of fake regulators being sold on ebay that are not authentic.

the core is too high?? what are the measurements? I need to buy a core air water but it has to be narrow thin it can't be tall if you can tell me where you bought the core or had it made. I would appreciate it or if you sell just the core what is the price ? Best Rgards

So tell me how to build big power my self with my 2024 ss an can we re gear the trans or how’s that setup

Thank you for the video, guys. I love JTE. Great customer care. John is an amazing guy.

I just got one I’m restoring!

Things of beauty.

Beautiful car! What cage is that?

Would this car be up for sale by by any chance?

What pressure regulator do you recommend I’m using a a1000 pump on a Ls 5.3 with 10an line what brand regulator do you recommend?

Nice

I have this truck but it's 1/10 and 1/8 pls confirm me

Hey John, wanted to know if this setup would be good for a YXZ running approx 15psi of boost? Is it overkill at that level, or a good idea running any amount of boost?

I've got one NIB for sale.

Big fan of the yxz and love what you are doing with them seen some of your other vids u seen real knowledgeable on them. Just picked up a 22 xtr one myself and the work begins. But seriously nice freaking job dude

The! 1:8 Nitro RC Car Runs nice bat the tyres Name: reifen Looks Like 1:6 Sitze.

You said the one is for crank signal? How does that work?

How does the map sensor relate to crank position? I never understood the second map sensor. Maybe this is why my pc5 doesnt act great

Can this be used In a supercharger application???

she's nasty!

clean

increadable...would be interesting to learn more about this tuning, ..it must use imens of fuel ? hard to drive distances...how does the trans coap with this load ?

Can you get different gear ratios for that diff? I want to run larger tires on a NA 2016 without losing RPM.

A polish kit for a variable Dremel will take that scratch out 🤘🏻😎 BEAUTIFUL PIECE 🧩

Awesome video glad you like the machine work 😁

I don’t even own a YZX anymore but I REALLY want to buy this masterpiece just to have on my shelf.

Looks bad ass John Cole has outdone himself with this thing !!

i have not done the looking around before asking so forgive me for not knowing but why do you need an alternator kit on your car. I have rugged radios, a pillar light, mirror lights, strobe lights for rear and baja designs headlights. should I be concerned about running out of power?

cant wait to see it rolling

Some wicked machining there! That is a piece of art. Can’t wait to see it installed.

I have the standard Avenger. Can I use it with this diff?

Neato!

I'm looking forward to seeing this in the chassis. I've been thinking about upgrading my diff before it pops. Are there any concerns with the front diff or do you only un RWD in the sand?

Very nice dude

W

What you’re seeing here is excessive contact between the ball and the seat in the regulator, which is ultimately beating the seat out of the base. This is not normal, nor is it a defect in the regulator, rather it’s a symptom of one of two conditions, either cavitation or chatter. These are separate situations, with unique causes but with a similar end result, where the ball on the bottom of the diaphragm is striking the seat with significant frequency and force. Technically, the only time the ball on the diaphragm touches the seat is when the pump is turned off. It would take thousands of cycles to begin to create this level of damage. What chatter and cavitation are and what causes this to occur can be a bit wonky/complex but I’ll try to explain below: Cavitation is the transformation of a liquid to a vapor by way of pressure drop. It’s not uncommon to see cavitation develop at the inlet of a pump, especially common when the fuel gets excessively warm in the tank and/or the pump is restricted on the inlet and producing abnormal levels of vacuum to get fuel. However, cavitation is not limited to pump inlet issues and can occur anywhere in a flowing system where there’s a significant pressure drop. This can commonly occur at a sudden/abrupt contraction/expansion point in a system, or on the trialing edge of a sharp/hard 90 degree transition. The cavitation event can entrain bubbles in the flowing liquid which, when they attempt to pass between the ball and the seat in the regulator (the point where pressure is created and maintained by the ball and seat) the bubbles either split or collapse. When this occurs the spring drives the ball toward the seat in the void, and if the bubbles are frequent/large enough the ball on the diaphragm will strike the seat, and if sustained will eventually damage the seat as seen. Chatter is a condition where the fuel pump / flow volume is insufficient to keep the ball from touching the seat under full load (the regulator is attempting to prevent the pressure from dropping by closing the return path, which is the area between the ball and the seat). On the test stand this can be easily demonstrated by flowing through the regulator to a flow meter with a ball valve used to simulate engine fuel consumption. Typically the ball valve starts closed and all the fuel is running from the pump through the bypass and back into the test tank reservoir to start, then the ball valve to the flow meter is gradually opened to simulate increasing engine fuel consumption. As this occurs the regulator adapts by closing the return (moving the ball closer to the seat) to maintain pressure. However, as the flow rate of the pump becomes insufficient to feed the increasing opening of the valve to the meter the pressure will droop 3-5 PSI and then the ball will start to contact the seat in an effort to keep the pressure from dropping further. At this point the ball will touch and the restriction will be complete, allowing the pressure to come back up, but as soon as that occurs and pushes the ball off the seat the curtain area at the smallest lift flows more fuel than remains and the ball is forced back onto the seat. At this point on the test stand an audible chatter can be heard as the ball rapidly and repeatedly strikes the seat and, if allowed to continue, will progressively damage the regulator seat, again, as seen in your pictures.

Awesome! We just finished a video doing the same thing with NGK 99-00 Civic SI (B16A) with great luck, the NGK even has a line you can cut on that leaves it the perfect length. NGK (8018) RC-HE64

Beautiful

How much would a build like this cost? Not including the rig and labor

I wish I had one. I turned my yxz boost up to 10 psi and my new clutch slipped pretty bad

Do the block off plates actually help the engine ?

dont let the EPA see this lol

BADASS