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@@stevenmccarthy4782 it's downstream, not in the park itself. Near library wall

@@zacmckell289 with the water levels this high. Hiking is not much of an option. Boating or kayaking from ham creek is the best bet

@@micah_raygun_ you're welcome!

You're probably the only other person who has ever completed it, then. Has the rock sunk at all, or otherwise changed much? I remember the top out being pretty filthy

@@bobbyhutton1989 thanks Bobby!

@@LetsTalkAboutPrepping thanks! I agree about heating the spring, I just thought it was worth commenting on as an interesting side effect which should be considered, and in this instance was actually desirable. Since this technique has been endorsed by some people who know what they're talking about, this video was mainly just to demonstrate my first attempts. I'm also sure they're still strong enough and not going to fail. They were allowed to air cool as recommended over quenching (which would make them more brittle)

Brittleized *

Top rope soloing

I only had it a month or two. I switched back to the microtraxion after this

@@jimday1991 hmm crazy I just got both so ill definitely keep an eye and make sure mine doesn’t start doing this

@@Addictedclimbers the microtraxion also has less friction, so it's my favorite device for top rope soloing. I use it in pretty much all my rope solo videos. Just remember to push the button!

​@@jimday1991im searching for videos on how to disable the micro traction i believe so i dont have to *remember to push the button

Thank you!

Product number? Only green loctite I know is 290 and it's definitely not stronger than 271

Yes. And I would not recommend red loctite on the studs of the bolt, because it can make it impossible to retighten if it becomes a spinner. So this is more for bolts that dont have hangers (glue ins)

Thanks!

Please do! I'm pretty sure it's never had a second ascent. Currently with recent rains, the whole area is probably under a foot of water, which might make it hard to protect. Maybe with some durable inflatable camping ground pads

@@jimday1991 I see, thanks for the heads up! I probably won't be able to go for a few months anyways, so hopefully it is dry by then xD If not maybe I'll bring a few air mattresses lol. Is there a guidebook available somewhere?

@@echo_8139 i wrote a free pdf guide: drive.google.com/file/d/1Cdc8Oyg3Y6BYmMGazxxeBH9bESOmrOjr/view?usp=drivesdk it's the only guide that lists the hydrophobia area. It's also on mountain project

@@jimday1991 Wow, thank you! I really appreciate all the effort to make that. I'd love to help add to it at some point

@@echo_8139 hmu on Instagram or Facebook

It depends on the Effective Rim Diameter, hub flange diameters, flange distance from center of hub, and lacing pattern. You can try finding an online spoke calculator, or ask for help from your local bike shop

I haven't used a batinox yet because they're expensive, but it should work great! I use bolt products 8mm twist bolts from team tough for which use 16-18mm holes

@@jimday1991 bat'inox are insanely expensive, I got given 4 of them ages ago. Would only use if I wanted to go into a big diam hole probably where a previous bolt removed. I don't bolt very often and only in old mines etc. I don't sport climb myself, only trad where I am

@@tomtom4405 that's a very nice gift that someone gave you! If you core drill and install one, let me know how it goes. 8mm twist bolts are ideal for 16mm and 17mm core drill bits due to their price point and strength, they're a great product. I could see how a batinox is nice for caving though, as trying directly to the anchor would be nice with the 14mm diameter thickness

I think about 10x 1/2" lok-bolts total on 3 different outings. It chipped on the very first bolt but I actually think it made it better, because water flows more easily out the chipped portion.

Is it your mom sucking it out?

It's called morse, not Morris. But please share a link to the tool you're referencing!

It’s not called a morris taper.

Probably between 30 and 40 years. The climb is listed in a book which was written in the mid 90s. I agree this bolt was surprisingly not that bad. The next one came out and was more rusted. Also I realized that the next one came out with a clip on the bolt which is made of a different material (maybe lead?), but the other ones I pulled out did not. The clip looked less corroded than the sleeve halves, so it must be more noble. I assume the lead clip stayed in the hole for the others, but I think it's easy to drill through. I drilled these holes deeper and installed 3/8" x 6" titen hd concrete screws until I decide to replace with glue ins

@@jimday1991 awesome. Thank you for this, I know how much work it is to rebolt routes. Great job.

Makita 18V LXT Lithium-Ion 1/2 in. Brushless Cordless Hammer Driver-Drill (Tool Only)

​@@jimday1991thank you!

@@RenatoUtsch just to be clear, that's the drill I use for core drilling as shown in this video. For drilling a new hole, I use a Makita 18V LXT Sub Compact 11/16in Rotary Hammer Drill, or for hard rock I have a Makita 18V 11/16 in. LXT Lithium-Ion Brushless Cordless AVT Rotary Hammer Drill

@@jimday1991 Thanks James! Yeah, I have a rotary hammer drill for drilling new holes (the DHR182 model from Makita), but I want to try out this core drilling setup. I am in need a normal drill either way, so I thought of buying one that would share batteries with my Makita rotary hammer drill, and want it to be strong enough for core drilling. Do you have the model number from the drill you're using? It looks like a DHP484z from what I can see, but I wanted to confirm.

@@RenatoUtsch i think so, I ordered it on home Depot and they list model XPH12Z but it looks the same, probably the tool only version. It's a great all around drill

4 that are more-or-less comparable to this boulder. You can find more details on mountain project, or the pdf guide I wrote, which I posted the link for in the comments section for the "Nolan River" area on Mountain Project

@@jimday1991 ok thanks , I was just curious. I looked through your pdf and definitely have interest in checking it out

@@AndrewSpiars hmu I climb out there frequently

They were zinc plated concrete screws I was using as temporary bolts only.

@@jimday1991 ah that makes total sense. The hanger gave me the wrong impression, I thought it was a type of sleeve bolt.

Yes it's at the Adair springs branch of nolan river, further downstream from blum. Message me on fb or Instagram and I'll let you know next time I go

The full video is here: th-cam.com/users/shorts_fnKnMuZHpU?si=0cnFv1Qvec2uIS8B

Could reuse the hole with a glue in but in this case, just patching with some JB weld water weld so nobody is the wiser. Top anchors may be relocated over the edge where they're not an eyesore

that lift tool was cool

@@BackyardDispatcher it's called a YABR, you can order one for $300 from peter thomas on mountain project

I removed everything else from that ledge, but I'm considering reusing this hole for something similar as a single point rappel, maybe an SLB monster or maybe just a fixe or raumer superstar

You're welcome Bobby!

The climb has never seen a second ascent, you're right it's not hard, 5.10C, but I bet you couldn't do it.

No yeah dude doesn’t have a belayer

Yes I used to mix in the nozzle and dispensed on the rock as you mentioned, but have found this method is less wasteful. As you said, the key is "the perfect color" how much you need to waste depends on when the resin and hardener are coming out evenly. I inspected to make sure they were both coming out before I put on the nozzle, and continued to inspect through the clear nozzle as i pumped to make sure they were coming out evenly, this way is less messy and wasteful. I do agree it's best to have your first squirt outside the hole so you can come back and make sure it cured, that's an important step for beginners and I probably should have included it in this video. Thanks for mentioning!

​@@jimday1991 thanks for the complete answer! I will probably try your technique one day if it's less wastefull! Getting some resin on something easy to inspect is for me an important step, even for not beginners, I already had a failed batch of chemical, the colour was nice. I also try to keep a file (personnaly just a google sheet) where I write the batch number of the cartridge, for sure It's an extra step, but it saved me a lot of times the day were I discovered what I previously said. Bravo for your work, and keep psyched!

​@@MrHassancehef thank you!