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@@plainnpretty good point! I should have. I’ve made various others since and I’m playing around with a continuous arm windsor now, but having a hard time with the steam bending process. Maybe I’ll post a video when I get that figured out

Thanks for watching!

@@ksojoel really depends how you do it! First one takes the longest because of the jigs and figuring out the angles. I’d say maybe 5-10 hours of work. The back rest takes the longest because of the bent lamination bending. Doesn’t take much wood either!

@@richardcary978 interesting how we all deal with different challenges. Trade offs to every place. Thanks for watching!

@@rsobbi thanks! It’s all for fun and learning for me

@@ryanboyd5782 thank you stranger!

@@TheMoonlightCraftsman thanks for watching! How’s Kansas for woodworking? It seems like mostly a New England thing

@@ericrichter7933not real big here, id say.

@@aaronm.3020 Thank you!

@@colemine7008 thanks!

@@nicholasmanovich4330 hope it works well for you!

@@michaelemancipator8573 I put a bolt through the top and into the top stretcher of the base, so no movement from top to base, and the base is super stable so far! Most people use a blind pegged dowel to hold the top in place, but I prefer a bolt with a star knob to put tension on it

@@ericrichter7933 awesome - thanks!

@@justin-tv3pc thanks!

It doesn’t cover the dovetails, it covers a gap that always shows up when you cut a groove for a drawer or box bottom

I’d be interested in seeing yours! I’ve never seen someone else make this mod

@@ericrichter7933 It's really simple. Half inch wooden dowel, 5/16 holes drilled at appropriate distance, sawn through just outside of hole centers so it just barely "snaps" onto the saw frame and stays there.

Thanks for watching!

Yeah! That’s what I do on normal mortises, but the offsets on this project made me want to visualize everything to be sure to cut on the correct side of the waste. Kinda important to dummy proof your project sometimes. In this case, I have my 16”x18” side panels of cherry with dovetails already cut into it and I’d be pretty sad to have a mortise cut in the wrong spot. Thankfully, no major errors so far.

Thanks for watching! You can’t see in the video, but I did use my tail vise for most of the chopping. There were a couple times I had it loose though

The sloping cope part is dependent on the rabbet, but the rabbet can be done on its own to hide the groove. This is a pretty small box, so I don’t need more than 1/8th of an inch, but it certainly would scale up. And the bigger the box, the bigger the efficiency gain of the sloping cope method. If you’re ever just looking for a few minutes in the shop to practice something, give one or both parts a try! Thanks for watching!

Hah! I think the afterthought stretchers we’re really ugly! More recent iterations got a much better looking H-shaped stretcher. They aren’t necessary, but I like the balance they give to the weight of the chair

Thanks! Yeah, I only used this method once just to try it, but the jig worked well! I don’t like using splines because they don’t really work well for quick alignment. If I wanted to make a lot of picture frames, I’d probably use a stub tenon and groove method and leave a rabbet on the outside like you said

Thanks Jim! Let me know how it works if you try out the slope and cope method!

Thanks man!

I think the way it was done for thousands of years was not for strength. It was for ease of making the joint and speed.

Nice! I’ve tried both ways, and tails works better for me, but I appreciate that you’re keeping the continental style alive!

Thanks for taking the time!

Hey thanks for watching! The bench is kinda like a lazy/cheap/modified wood whisperer design. The front and back slabs are stationary and the middle just have grooves for the sliding section. The bench dogs you’re referring to technically could work, but I don’t use them for work holding. I have the hopes of building a Moravian workbench at some point, but just like my current setup, it has to pull double duty as an outfeed table

Totally respectable! And on little boxes like this, the look is very noticeable, but maybe consider it for bigger boxes or casework! An 1/8th or 1/4 inch rabbet on a 3/4 inch case is almost invisible. If the question is aesthetic and not functional, perhaps the question is where you would or would not try to use this method

Let me know if you try it out!

Thanks for watching! Give it a try and let me know what you think first-hand!

True! And admittedly, I kinda like that. The thinned out portion is the ugly side of the dovetail, so it adds a little interest to thin it out. Also, it’s much more noticeable in small boxes, but this technique works in big stuff too and the thinning isn’t very noticeable

My thoughts exactly! And the lost end-grain isn’t where the strength is coming from. The glue really only works on the long-grain and I’m not sacrificing any long-grain with the slope.

@@ericrichter7933 completely agree

Thanks James!

Seems that the slope should be vey little so the outside base is not too sharp a point. Also this does facilitate the outside getting better contact because you don't have a problem of the inside bottoming before the outside if the base is not perfectly square.

@@dpeteual yeah, I leave a reasonable amount that still needs to be chiseled back. That leaves a flat instead of a point as you mentioned. So it’s still supported, but chiseling just gets easier.

Ah thanks! Yeah I really don’t like using loud carving tools like a grinder! I do want to get a scorp one day, but what I have tried on more recent chairs is just a big gouge chisel! I don’t like overly carved chairs, so they tend to be pretty shallow carvings, so a simple gouge has worked pretty well! Thanks for the compliments!! I live in Texas and don’t actually personally know ANY other woodworkers, so I have mostly just had to figure things out my own way (and with lots of TH-cam! 😆)

@@ericrichter7933 There may be a woodworking club in your area to join. And TH-cam is a friendly place for subjects like this.

Thanks so much! I appreciated the comment you left on my chair video! There’s so much to learn and seems like we can still contribute something new or improved to our craft. I don’t really plan to be a TH-camr in general, so hopefully all of my videos will have something meaningful that makes them worth-while.

@@ericrichter7933 As TH-cam should be!

Definitely different, but I find it attractive and interesting! In bigger casework, it would be negligible, but in little boxes like this, it does make a big visual impact. Thanks for the reply!

Thanks Tom! Let me know what you think when you try it out for yourself!

As I understand it, the part that is undercut, no matter what the method, is not the surface that is providing any strength in the glue-up. The long grain in the tails and pins is where the glue strength is. That said, the rabbet actually would add slightly more structural stability, even if the slope and cope sacrificed a tiny bit of strength. At that scale, it’s all pretty negligible, however. I don’t see any real loss of strength! Thanks for the comment!

I believe in undercutting the pin sockets on the tail board, you are coming into the center from both sides, with your chisel registered in the scribe line. This removes any hump and allows the pin board to fully seat. Since it's end grain anyway, you're not losing any real glue surface.

That’s the Katz-Moses dovetail jig! It’s great!