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you should attacth the wire to the cabble guide

nice review, im considering a new printer because my creality ender 3 is giving me to many issues

Got an A1 mini on the way, I can’t wait. My Sovol sv06 has been nothing but headaches

Thanks! This is what I want to watch before I make a choose.

I was there 3 years ago it’s so beautiful

Thats just evil

the cons are that the filament holder is originally on the back and that my other printer is now a filament dryer

Hello sir

Why are you not getting to the point but repeating the same stuff all over again?

I have a old creality cr10s

Nice one 👍

Winning the lottery would be a very traumatic experience for this guy

Try some sunlu filament thay are on plastic spool ,hope this helps ,all the best.

I am going to get a p1s.try to use plastic spools it will definitely help you.

this dude...

always a good when i see new vid :)

although just had problem with .2 nozzle (.04 layer) isnt great but amazing printer

great review just got it also tip for the black wire u dont need to tape it u can hook it on to the 5 ptfe tube holder and put it with ams ptfe tubes there is a slightly smaller hook it is supposed to go threw

So why are you using cardboard spools when bambu lab say not to in the ams that's what causes problems with the ams .

2 people to carry? It cant be that heavy its not made of cast iron.

Lots of crying about very petty stuff. Lol

What is the size of the white table on which the printer is placed

Thank you! And thanks for validating that the instructions aren’t sufficient. Why they didn’t make a short video and add a QR code to watch it on the packaging baffles me. For one thing, the instructions don’t even talk about how to remove the old filter. It’s a weird mechanism and the last thing an owner wants to do is break it by yanking wrong on the old filter.

What are the disadvantages of the printer

Similar to the JML Go Fryer

Do you have a link to the model?

I just bought this printer, and it is the first 3d printer I have ever bought. Thank you for the video you produced showing what the capabilities that the printer can do, it reinforce my thoughts that I bought the right 3d printer for my first printer. Thank you

Noticed you paused printing. Is this printer too loud to run while you were filming?

Filament gets stuck a lot you say with the rolls sat in the AMS with cardboard rolls which is a no no and the cardboard dust alone is bad for the system

link to prints?

What filament type did you use?

I got P1P couple months ago and for me, the Bambu Lab printers are like paradise for people who want to print lol. But I dont have AMS so maybe you had some problem that I didnt had. I didnt buy AMS because of the waste. Too much.

Great job! Thank you! I have 2 to rehab

How much would it cost to print a 6-hour object, from a print-farm business? I imagine having someone else do the print is going to be the better option if if you're only going to do a print every once in a while? Aside from Lidar , and more material support , any thoughts between the Bambu P1S and X1C? Infimech TX printer?

Welcome Desi. There's definitely a lot of pros and cons with 3D Printing, and starting with such a machine is a wonderful start, Bambulabs have definitely gone out of their way to make things easy to at least start and that multicolour benchy is pretty cool. Best wishes in the journey, make cool stuff!

Very nice video to appreciate printing quality.❤

Welcome to 3D printing. It definitely sucks you in. It is so fun to design and make your own functional parts.

Your 2 complaints, it's too big and it's too hard to send it back. I think you're better off with something else so U don't complain. This was a useless video. Hopefully U make better ones. I hate a complainer. You're just a dating same things over and over again

Explaining how easy Bambu Studio is a nice pro for people who are new to 3D printing. I think the ease of use is the most beneficial pro of the Bambu printers. I would definitely use the advanced mode in the slicer and learn more about the different settings. You don't have to mess with the speed so much but tweaking some quality, strength, and support settings are important for various prints. Like I personally use .28 or .24 resolution a lot because the quality is still incredible while speeding up the process. Changing the infill pattern is actually very important too and for some reason every printer manufacture defaults to a grid pattern that can cause layer shifts when printing at higher speeds. Using Gyroid is great for added strength and stability while also being able to use less filament. I usually use 6-15% Gyroid and its faster/stronger than using 25-40% Grid. I also use Rectilinear a lot too because its very similar to the Grid pattern but its one of the fastest infills to print. Strength isn't as good as Gyroid but you can still get away with a lower infill density while being faster. I have found that 100% infill with Rectilinear is actually faster than using 70% Gyroid. Now you don't need 100% infill on many models but its great to know its quicker if you do need it. I don't like using Rectilinear with PETG though because it doesn't print as well for me and the infill doesn't seem as strong but PLA has been great. Messing with the support settings can be very beneficial as well. I usually use Tree supports as much as possible because they can use less filament, are quicker, come off easier. I like to change the first layer expansion to 4 or 5mm so the supports don't fail on longer prints and in some cases I will ad a raft layer. Bambu Studio doesnt have this setting but in Orca Slicer, I usually set the branch density from 40-60% depending on the model. I have found that it supports the model way better and when you break off the supports, you are left with a more even surface than the 30% they have by default. Definitely download OrcaSlicer and watch tons of videos on the calibration process as well as various settings to adjust. Not too many specifically for the P1S but these settings can apply to almost any FDM printer. Bambu Studio is just a fork of OrcaSlicer so they don't get as many features as quick as Orca but you can easily login with your Bambu account and the settings are saved across the two slicers. Orca is basically identical to Bambu Studio so its going to feel very comfortable to use. Tinkercad is really cool too and more user friendly but it can be limiting, I would look into learning Onshape. They have a free version thats extremely powerful but it can be harder to learn. I'm still learning it myself but there are so many more tools and benefits with certain models. Fusion360 is still everyone's go to but if you aren't a student then it can get pretty expensive. Its also more difficult to learn than Tinkercad. The cardboard spools can cause issues in the AMS and not all solutions online actually fix the problem but they can help. I hear adding electrical tape around the edge of the cardboard makes them grip better, some people print the rings to snap on, and I think the most beneficial is used large heavier ball bearings in the center of the spools. They are on Amazon fairly cheap and they help prevent the spool from slipping. The AMS lite is better when using cardboard spools but you also have the filament out in the open and it doesn't work with the P1S. I get why companies use cardboard spools but I think they should just go to reusable plastic spools and selling refills. You can also print a filament winder that I recommend as well because it makes it more simple to rewind filament on a plastic spool as well as ensure there are no tangles. Even spools that are neatly wound can have tangles and it should be impossible when they are spooling but I have had them half way through brand new spools and it ruined the prints. Another helpful tip is to order filament online rather than getting them in store. I got 3 spools at MicroCenter when I bought my P1S and they were $27-35 a spool of PLA that I can get for $10-25 on Amazon. The inland filament is not worth more than $18 a spool and the Cookiecad filament I got was really nice but Eryone filament is a lot cheaper and better in most cases. Cookiecad has some really nice colors that more brands are starting to come out with but $35 a spool is just stupid. A lot of people use Kingroon filament and you can get them for as little as $90 for 10 rolls on their website or ebay. They are usually the same color spool but you can pay a little more and get 10 rolls of various colors. I haven't personally used them yet but its been a lot of peoples go to. I also really like Eryone's filament and if you order in bulk on their website you can them as little as $13 a spool. Elegoo's Rapid PLA+ and PETG are usually my go to right now but I only use their black or white because its way cheaper. 4 spools of the Rapid PLA+ in Black is usually around $47 and the PETG is usually around $41. Their PETG is really nice too and I can actually print it as fast if not faster than their Rapid PLA and that's crazy because most PETG's max out their volumetric flow at 12-15 mm3/s when I'm running it at 22 mm3/s. My other go to at the moment is GST3D PLA+ because I had about 6 spools left over from an order 2 years ago. I don't recommend them now because the company went downhill a little over a year ago but IIIDMAX was a sister company who had better QC and they sell the spools at the same price when buying bulk. I have only used their PLA+ but buying 10 spools for $8-12 each depending on sales, is really nice. I can also run them just as fast as my other high speed filaments and I think the max volumetric flow I got was 25 mm3/s but I usually run them at 20 mm3/s. Anyway, hope this information is helpful and can help with any reliability issues you might have.

This video is funny. He obviously never had to deal with an Ender or pretty much any printer from just a few years ago

oh gosh careful with cardboard spools in the ams, the dust from the board grinding can build up and cause weird issues. what i do is i peel the sides off and keep the filament held to the core and put it in one of bambu's reusable spools. if you goof up though you could get spaghetti so be careful with my pro-strategy

It's kind of funny to me how much people complained about the sound of the Ender 3, which to me was practically silent, yet they defend the noise of this thing which is really quite impressively loud and difficult to sit next to. On the other hand, I've never had any issues printing on the p1p, it's been flawless even on 8 or 10 year old filament I've had sitting around. I have a P1P, and it's much easier to maintain, although I've been thinking of enclosing it to try to keep the noise down. To reduce waste, I've tweaked my profile so there is 0 purge when no filament change and only 20mm when changing. With 20mm I have found that by the time it purges during start up and prints the prime lines it's all clear.

The thing about the space it takes up, it's essentially the same footprint as everything needed for your standard bed slinger, you're just getting a box that defines those dimensions to you.

I think I disagree, respectfully, with everything said.

I disagree with not buying the AMS combo. It's so nice and easy to load 4 materials and just be able to press go. It loads and unloads itself and you have to do nothing except push the filament into the feeder in the AMS itself. Plus it doubles as a dry box. Plus you get it for $100 off over buying them separate and don't have to pay that huge shipping price.

The fuck are you on about? Are you paid by competitors or something?! I have the X1C and i love it, no failed print after 6 months. Perfect results. Prints being used in my inventions for analysers in the oil industry, it is fucking amazing. In lieu of printing metal i cannot ask for more from an additive printer. Maybe they sold you some bootleg fake in India

What the hell does tinkercad or meeting people when buying filament have to do with a bambu labs printer? This is an absolute waste of time for a video.

I have I P1S if a print fails or just doesn't work out, it wasn't the printer it was operator error ... wrong slicer settings, wrong build plate selected etc, ect ...compared to to my elegoo neptune 2s, my P1S sits on a pedestal and since I got a Bambu I have not looked back. Bambu for the win in my books!

Uh, I bought my X1C locally, loaded it into my car, drove it home, unloaded it from the car and was making amazing prints within an hour, all by myself. It also has a silent mode.

Great video! Any advice since posting about how to service the extruder more efficiently?