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Yes the sewn finished width when you put it on for the first time but remember to not be too fastidious. You can have leeway either way

Yes. Once raw edges have been dealt with and once it is attached to the body it should be 15cm. This is generally the right width but you can move a cm larger or smaller. Generally you want the okumi to “appear” half the width of the body piece, not exactly by thereabouts. I hope that helped. Please come to me with any other questions!

Thank you so much! Isnt it just!? I adored making this one so much. Very interesting to see how the saree works and fabric changes as it goes in and out of brocade work!

Thank you for the kind words! The seams are exposed when you “back” instead of “line” a garment. It takes more time to do because it usually has to be hand sewn to hold them down and open. This is why it is rarely seen or taught. It is something you choose to do for the reasons I covered but any pattern would advise you otherwise because of the extra work. They do look great, especially on the first one with the highly textured fabric

Thanks for that! We definitely weren't taught backing when I learnt to sew! I can see the advantages as the backing fabric reinforces the lighter fabric, rather than just being a lining. Cheers for your reply. ​@@houseofkimono

Thank you for your interest! I love that I have a place where I just talk about kimono and sewing with people!

I havent come across hemp in my travels or shopping but i have never sought it out. Hemp is a great idea and in japan is and was commonly uses to create summer outfits. Ramie is another hemp like fibre thats used in that way!

Male skirt

Yeah a lungi under a yukata is a great idea! Very comfortable

Oh Im so happy that comes across! I do love Kimono a lot, Im so happy to have somewhere to rabbit on about them

Traditional Japanese garments are still most all made by hand. To make the sewing patterns I had to reconfigure the method to suit the sewing machine so actually you will be doing it the traditional way! Grab a needle and thread. I do it all the time. It takes time but its so satisfying at the end!

Theyre just great! Now Im back in Australia I am really feeling the benefit of the light cotton!!

I am so excited for you!! Do you have your fabric? What will you use? Let me know how you go, I am here if you need any help

Thank you so much! Its so nice to stand back and look at what I made with my own hands, very rewarding indeed!

That is music to my ears! Yes please try a muslin first! Also the muslin will look divine itself! I am here if you have questions! I cannot wait to hear how it turns out!

Thankyou so much! The short jacket would be amazing in that voile! Perfect for after the beach in high summer!

Oh Im so happy to have helped, though I must stress that you should never be ashamed of you shoulder no matter how scandalous they are! What fabric did you use?

@@houseofkimono I used a turquoise brocade with white and gold flowers. And thanks! (I wasn't necessarily ashamed, it was more that I was mildly making fun of the dress code. XD)

I have a turquoise brocade too!! Oh i bet its stunning! How wonderful

Ahh I have done this! Now you have a shoulder seam so that is fab and easy to find when it comes to measuring! What material are you using?

Thank you so much!! Will you make one!? They are so easy!

Oh thats so kind! I’m glad you are enjoying it! Will you make a kimono?

@@houseofkimono I'm eyeing the shorter jacket. That would be a nice alternative for a cardigan or such in spring or autumn.

Oh how lovely! What a great idea! Im here if you need any help

Yes! I am editing some video now. It will take a bit to do it but its coming up in my content!

@@houseofkimono thank you

Im so excited to share it!

Its gold 550 that I use from lumiere and the gutta is gold by pebeo. You have to heat set once finished so you have to dry iron or oven set them and then they would be washable, however, this is very nice silk and its a kimono so in this case you would never wash it, you would never get it dirty in the first place.

Oh thank you so much! It was a massive course to make but so much fun!

Oh I am so happy I could help! You are going to make some amazing yukata. This is the start of the series of 18 videos over 3 hours going through every step of making the yukata! I have them going up one by one over the next 2 weeks so as not to frazzle the algorithm! So hopefully there will be something here to help you for your summer of yukata!!

Yes you can, they were often popular for the hottest part of the year. If you line it it is no longer a yukata. There are kimono that are linen as well but they would usually be a silk linen. If linen was desired to make a kimono then you would probably use ramie or hemp instead

Its called “Kimono” by Thames & Hudson. Its amazing, it has so many of the Kimono that were in the V&A exhibition and such great information @thamesandhudsonvideo

No, yukata are always made of cotton, i think now you may find some poly blends but they are most often made of one layer of cotton. If you are wearing one between onsen in the winter, you may layer up with underclothes or have a particularly warmer haori, perhaps padded with silk floss or made of a wool blend.

Once you start adding linings and using other textiles you have moved into the Kimono realm, a rather nice realm to be!

I’d add a wool under robe to the yukata for winter and a wool jacket kimono over it all

Yeah! Its all about the layers in Japan!

Oh thank you so much!!

Oh thank you so much!!

Its so beautiful! I cannot wait to make another one!

I will do that soon! It is a little different. When i am making a yukata for myself, as a man, i use this method because it is easier with a sewing machine. In Japan instead of clipping, for womens and mens garments, they use moisture and heat to stretch the curve at the back neck as a way of dealing with the ease. Such a cool thing to do!

@@houseofkimono Honestly, I'm a little paranoid to ruin my fabric relying just on heat and moisture to get a nice collar on. I think I might compromise and just go a couple of cm into the back instead of the full 5 cm, and do a little more clipping and easing to get the collar on, and hand stitch that part. Wish me luck!

Great idea! If in doubt hand sew! I wish you enormous luck, let me know how it goes!!!

@@houseofkimono It went really well. I based it on your wonderful guide, but made the curve for the neck a little shallower. Just 2.5 cm. It gives a nice, snug curve around the nape of the neck. Perfect for a man's kimono. Once again, thank you so much for your brilliantly clear and comprehensive guide.

Oh I so happy I could help even a little! It makes my day seeing comments like this it really does!

Yes I will! Oh great idea! You can get the pattern for a lined kimono here thehouseofkimono.etsy.com You really feel that luxury weight when you line a robe like this. You feel regal as you swish through the house, well i certainly do!

@@houseofkimono Yay! I'm self-taught and been making cotton yukatas since Covid and would love to create a lined one. I will take a look at the pattern, thank you! Also, I have been making an open side seams that are about 4-5" in length on the sides as vents. i have no experience how to add those ideas to it. But a video on a fully lined yukata would be awesome, thank you!

Side vents would be quite easy to do if you use my seaming method. (raw edges turned and pressed open) If you are using this seaming method then to create vents 4-5inches from the hem simply means stopping the seam and perhaps stitching down the seam allowances along the vent to the hem.

Thank you so much and thank you so much for buying my pattern aswell!! This means so much to me! This will be amazing in a lawn like that and lawn is my favourite fabric for basically all my sewing! What kind of print do you have? Its going to be amazing! Perfect with a t and some jeans for brunch! So exciting!

@@houseofkimono ❤ It's the week-end getaway print, you know the one with folks basking in the sun. I'm thinking: why not use different fabric to make the collar and bow? Maybe in orange or green? I do like bold colours ❤‍🔥🌈

Oh yes! Great idea! The sash is where you use contrast! You can make a stunning outfit when you play with the obi colour scheme! In Japan the tradition is to compliment but never match the obi its fascinating to look at what they choose!

@@houseofkimono 🤩🤩🤩

👘

Oh im so happy it has helped! Thank you so much for your gorgeous words! Are you going to make a Kimono now? What will you use?

@@houseofkimono Yes, I'm going to make a kimono now! I think I'll use cotton fabric. I have already found some that has enough length and width😊

Brilliant! Cotton is the best, all the yukata I wear myself are cotton! Im here if you need help along the way!

Thank you so much! You are so kind and have made my day with the appreciation! I am so excited to make more videos soon and even more excited for right now because I am in Bangkok buying fabric to make more kimono and yukata!! Ive found some amazing textiles and cannot wait for you to see!

@@houseofkimono I cannot wait either. I used to frequent Bangkok often for years, and always loved the look of the Thai raw silks, but they were so stiff and structured, they kind of freaked me out!

They are soooo structured! The structure breaks down with wear so you grow into your kimono! It makes it this personal thing that you made that you have a story with!! I bought a silver saree the other day in singapore and cannot wait to work out how to use that!

You are too kind! Im so happy you have found it useful! I love fabric and Im so glad that comes across

Ahh yes you can get it now on the etsy link. Use the code “YOUFAVE” for a 20% discount! I cannot wait to make another yukata! Im off to Bangkok soon for some serious fabric shopping!

Im so happy I could help. Billy Matsunaga has such a great channel doesnt she!? So much amazing information!

@@houseofkimono while i think her style is cute, i have been struggling with her tutorial. but oh my gosh, i ripped the side seams out and now i can put it in the "Angel of the north" position and its SOOOOOOOO MUCH EASIER THANK YOU!!!!

Oh brilliant!!! I cannot wait to start sewing again! Just went fabric shopping this afternoon in Istanbul! So exciting

Thank you so much! I love this jacket so much. I get it out and put it on the mannequin from time to time just to adore it!

All Kimono in Japan and East Asia are worn left over right. Wearing it right over left is reserved for the dead so it is not done by the living. A great way to remember, that I learnt from a Japanese friend is; “left over rice”.

@@houseofkimono well I am glad I asked. That is very useful information. Also I didn’t get the mnemonic until I saw it written down lol. A good way to remember. 😆😁

Hahahah If it wasnt for the mnemonic Im not sure I would remember! Brilliant!

You are so kind thank you so much! I am moving back to australia in a few weeks! What fabric will you use!?

@@houseofkimono black cotton I have on hand, a bit stiff & sheer, in a good way. I have plenty to experiment with as I am slowly building myself a small mostly handmade wardrobe ❤️ that I love, I understand this will be a lifelong pursuit. Adding & subtracting pieces over time

Oh what a dream! Just gorgeous hand made black cotton things! Amazing!!

Oh no! That link doesnt work now! Email me, my email is on this profile and ill send you it directly! Thank you for reminding me about that link

Thank you so much! Its so nice to see people enjoying my videos! Are you making a kimono

@houseofkimono I'm considering making a yukata, but I still haven't found the right fabric yet

Its tough deciding! A cotton lawn is the easiest to sew, very comfortable, comes in every pattern and colourway and usually quite cost effective. All my favourite yukata are cotton lawn.

Welcome to the club! Im so happy you are enjoying the videos! I am moving from the uk to australia and just had to ship all my kimono and silk it was very expensive! What is your favourite fabric to use?

@@houseofkimono Thank you for the warm welcome! I’m a big fan of natural materials like cottons, tweeds, twill. Recently, I discovered some designers out of S. Africa that are incorporating kimono styles ( I don’t believe that’s the correct term, more like the “jacket “ that goes over kimono) into streetwear….totally have me hooked on the look. While researching traditional makers here on YT, your channel popped up! So your definitely reaching your market 🙌 I completely understand the frustrations with the expense. When I moved here to Germany, I shipped my art from the states….bam! That about gave me a heart attack. So you have my sympathy. Hope that the move goes well and that your wonderful fabrics arrive safely 🤞

Ooohhh i have always wanted to make a kimono from a boucle tweed or something like that! I can just imagine a woman in a castle hotel in Scotland wearing one! Im so happy you found me! We are going to make wonderful things!

@@houseofkimono Put it on the list….I would love to see that 🙌

@@houseofkimonoit will be interesting to see how you go with the heat & humidity in Australia & how this will affect your choice of fabric. You will be spoiled for choice in the Asia-Pacific region! I am currently in the midst of sewing with batik fabrics making a knee length Kimono style jacket & dress in contrasting colour/pattern to wear together. Someone’s destashed fabric they gifted me, so even more satisfying to make ❤

That is going to be amazing! Such a great garment! Yes this is a standardised pattern to 60" fabric. This makes a floor length yukata or Kimono with Taisho length 75cm / 30inch sleeves. You quarter it and simply cut straight through to create the two migoro. To get the length of your migoro hold a measuring tape at your shoulder and drop the end to where you would like the hem to sit. Add a hem allowance and then double that amount to find your migoro length. Have a look through my videos for collar attachment and seaming as well. This is going to be amazing! Im here if you need help!

@@houseofkimono thanks for such a quick response! I have all the materials I need and have been dreading layout process for the last couple of days. This will surely get me started on it today😁

Hahahah its so hard to take that first cut with the scissors! I know it well! You will make something brilliant!

This makes me so happy! It is the hardest thing to first cut into that tanmono I know! Im so excited for you! There is a whole video that goes into great detail for attaching the collar that may come in handy and ofcourse I am here if you find yourself stuck and in need of some assistance! Go forth and sew!

Oh thank you so much!!! You have made my day with this comment! You can always ask me more if you need, I am a textile nerd! If you want the pdf just email me studio@houseofkimono.com What do you make?

Isnt it amazing!!??

Indeed.. absolutely amazing 🤩.. 👍

Youre too kind!!

Oh thank you so much! It is stunning! I loved making it so much!

So quick and easy! Its all just about halving! I love it so much! Will you make one?

@@houseofkimono I’ve made a Jinbe for the hot summer but I want to make a yukata. I’ve always wanted to tear fabric like this but I’m to nervous about mistakes.

It is nerve racking when you go to tear! You have to be confident BUT try on a smaller piece first just so you know you can rip through it! I learnt that the hard way with a brocade and ruined a half metre of beautiful silk!

Voile is light, super light but that is nothing compared to a chiffon and especially in silk. It is usually about twice as heavy but twice as heavy doesnt mean much when its twice as heavy as something that has no weight of you catch my drift. A chiffon isnt as closely woven so its more airy and etherial. It often has a twisted yarn so it is lovely and matte and in that way resembles the voile. This would be heaven in a silk chiffon! It will look amazing! Have a look at my video about how to attach the collar, you may want to line the collar if you dont want to see all the interior working. Im here if you need any help and please let me know how it goes!

@@houseofkimono well thank you for that. I am basically looking for the poor mama silk chiffon hahaha Something that has a full billowy drape, breathable, but holds its shape. I am also looking for someone to teach me how to make this dress I designed. I’m thinking I should take a class or find a seamstress ….

Chiffon is fab even if it isnt pure silk because of its weave, breathability all the way! I have two 5 metre bolts of viscose chiffon but its so fine that I am too scared to sew with it! Hahhaha Im much better with a dupion that I can throw about and push the iron through! What kind of dress are you making?

@@houseofkimono well it’s a floor length trip leg draped tier Cold shoulder bell sleeve dress if you must know 😅

Wow! That is so exciting! It will be amazing in chiffon!

I do! www.alexdouglasnewton.com/kimonos head to my website you can get it there!

You are so kind! It is one of my personal favourites that I have ever made! I was so excited when I found the sari! It is like air its so light!