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@jakeburks3533 honestly can't remember at this point. Definitely sounds like you need a rebuild. Leaky carbs can be a real pain

@@ShadetreeMechanic okay, thank you.

I believe it's a relief "valve" of some kind. Good luck finding it.

@@ShadetreeMechanic Thanks!

Quick silver is a good aftermarket option. Check with your local marinas, they tell you the same thing.

I don't have the part number. When I did the research to buy it, it made sure to get a well-known brand because the cheap ones break.

Do you know where you boight it?​@@ShadetreeMechanic

Thing runs great!

What did you end up having into it in parts? About to get one in a trade and guy says motor is seized up.

I found it on Amazon. Not sure which one I bought

Primarily in Salt water

I think you could replace it. It would definitely be challenging and I think finding a decent used one would be very hard. I'm afraid to look to see how much a new one would cost...

I did not.

I did not.

@@ShadetreeMechanic thanks for the info my friend 😁

Glad you enjoyed it

I don't remember unfortunately. The engine is a kawasaki so I assume from them?

I just bought a millermatic 185 instead. Good tips for welding still though. Thanks for watching!

Flux core welding is designed for outdoor use, it is gassless welding. Inside or outside will have zero effect on the welds laying flat. Preheating steel has zero effect on welds unless it is cast steel/iron and even then the preheat is mostly for stopping the cracking that happens with concentrated heat. Turn the welder up and weave the two pieces of steel together, flux welds (any welds) are stronger than the base metal if its done correctly. Clean everything very well no rust or paint in the path. Push the puddle into the seam and be sure to melt both sides of the seam into the puddle.

The preheat is so the metal doesn’t suck the heat from your weld is what I’m saying nobody is talking about cast that’s a totally different process with high nickel rod your arguing with the wrong guy I don’t weld for a hobby I build boats that go in the ocean everything I touch must be certified I was just helping the guy out with the stuff he had available

@@kyleschlee348 so you preheat 1/4 steel from a 1” strip for a good weld? So much for these boats you build. The welder would make the steel he was using red hot in short time, preheating would be useless and redundant.

If your using a 110 flux core harbor freight welder yes it will also remove the moisture and any contamination 😉

Flux core is specifically designed to be used outside. It has no shielding gas and the wind has less effect on the welding. This should have worked fine but obviously doesn’t have a strong enough welder for penetration. Stick welding is also flux welding, the flux is on the outside instead of in the core… pipe welders stick weld in all sorts of environments and weather without failure.

Yes a stick welder is for outside but flux core o30 and 035 don’t carry enough flux to weld in the wind and if your not really a welder who cares if you have a weak weld that breaks right

Sounds like you welded once and you think your a pro smh

@@kyleschlee348 i weld every day. But you can google flux core and get better information than what you are offering.

@@kyleschlee348 .030/.035 carry plenty of flux to weld outdoors if the wind is below 5mph. His problem was penetration due to lack of amps and wire speed. You can see the base metal in the breaks, there was no fusion, just surface bubble gum. Probably a 110v welder on a 15amp outlet turned up to the “door specs” meaning it wasnt actually pulling the proper energy to begin with. 110v welders should be run on 20amp receptacles for the best results. Google this information for yourself. If the base metal was fused properly the metal would have bent and broke somewhere else, the wire is stronger than the base metal by design. Thats why they have those numbers in their names, 60,000psi, 70,000psi etc.

I would also like to known more about that. Nothing in the manual about that. Can someone explain?

Give me a few hours. I'll post them when I get home.

@@ShadetreeMechanic did you get torque specs

@@ShadetreeMechanic both exhaust valves on my front head snapped off

I've been waiting on head torque specs

This guy blew me plumb how rude well I got mine back together without anyone help thanks

Bought it with the engine blown up. I'm not sure what's caused it.

@@ShadetreeMechanic have you fixed it yet I'm working on one for a friend

What great information. Thank you for the comment!

It's very heavy and hard to handle. It was close to the max I could lift. Make sure you take it out of the correct side of the frame. Maybe an engine hoist?

@@ShadetreeMechanic Thanks! I ended up dismantling the entire atv down to the frame, engine, and the front diff. Only one CV axle would come out, so I needed to remove the engine before I could get the diff out. It was a lot easier having everything off because the frame and engine were on the ground at that point and could be scooted apart on the ground. Now I'm working on finding a company to sandblast the frame and all of the control arms. Good times.

Let me see if I can find the manual that describes the timing procedure. I'll let you know

Which wires? All of them? The smaller wires are part of the harness and will be a pain in the ass to track and replace. The large power wire should be pretty simple. The bigger the gauge wire the better.

Always a good idea to clean the terminals before reinstall

No. Just the two bolts that hold it on

The top stud when the starter is installed is where the power wire from the battery goes. Sounds like you have a big job ahead. Good luck

I honestly don't remember what website I bought it from, however it's held up great and I've had no issues.

Drill bit

hello can you really see through the pipes at the bottom part?

It's tight, but mine has enough room for an adjustable rachet

I ground down an inexpensive socket (to make it a thin wall) and an open end wrench so they would fit for mine install. Worked for me

Make sure the flame arrestor is clean (boat version of an air filter), while you have the f.a. off look at the condition of the carburetor, if there's corrosion, it should be rebuilt. Remove the fuel line from the carb and make sure the fuel pump is moving fuel. Good luck. Let me know how you make out

@@ShadetreeMechanic Great, thank you!

@Shadetree Mechanic new starter works great...after troubleshooting I found water in the filter , gonna pump out my tank and see if that does the trick

I'm not 100% certain what you mean, but the float should be resting on an angle with no fuel. Once the fuel fills up it floats and prevents excess fuel into the carb. Give me some more info and I'll try and help.