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Thanks for watching and commenting, no you don’t have to take both of, the most secure is to take off only the negative side, however the computer wouldn’t know the difference. If you take off both you are definitely sure no creeping current is left in the system. Hope that helps Drive safely best regards Rene

Thanks for watching and commenting, to your question it could cause that. However it is solely a matter of which teeth on the gear that broke or were bad. Normally you should feel some cold air coming through. You have three of these valve and depending on which one or ones if there are more that has failed you may not sense cold air. However not having you AC fullly charged with 134a coolant is more likely. I would change your air valves and just check for proper pressure on AC by the same token, and then you should have clean cold air. I have another video on the AC refurbishing here, it’s on the Land Rover but it is the same procedure and you cannot connect it wrong since there are different diameters on the sockets. : th-cam.com/video/rj3o34vsn8o/w-d-xo.htmlsi=R4uW3zPqW8v-Y6_g Hope that helps. Drive safely best regards Rene

Thank you for watching and commenting, congratulations with your new car. To answer your question it could be one of the reasons. But if you buy a cheap OBD reader on Amazon it should tell you if it connects. It is hard for me to judge if this could be the problem, however it could be. The ECU and TCM modules are located in a known water intrusion area on the LR’s and therefore you could see this as a result. The OBD reader will give you the readings if it connects and then you know. I hope this helps a little Drive safely, best regards Rene.

Absolutely 👍 I simply drilled the Land Rover letters off the hood cleaned the hood completely off. Then I used the spay that came with the product plus a heatgun to let the wrap shrink in to place. It took approximately 3 hrs and I did it 2 years ago. It hold up pretty fine. Should have made a vid on that for you. However here is the link on Amazon where I got the wrap : a.co/d/1mhj1aN After the wrap was settled I riveted the Land Rover letters back on the hood - the hood is made of aluminum so riveting I found was better in order for all to hold up. Hope that helps - drive safely Best regards Rene

@@techtips101 that's great, thank you!

You are welcome. 🙏

Thank you and thanks for watching and commenting- I am glad you liked it. Drive safely, best regards Rene More LR vids on the way.

Hi there - first I am so sorry to have not seen your question before now, however I guess a late reply is better than no reply at all 🙏🙏 I was on the range and shot the xbow in at different settings - since the scope really isn’t designed for such slow speeds as the xbow produces, I had to make a quick choice to sight in at shorter distance and live with a grouping which was tolerable. I shot it in up to 40 yds in the end and that seems to work ok with the grain weight selected. Many of my hunts and shots only gives me 20-30yds range anyway so the night time hunting is pretty much better like that for me. That is the reason I have selected this setting. Since I have changed to the breadcrumb technology on the bolts it added more weight and the Center of gravity changed as well, so I need a heavier broadhead too, this is what I have figured out so far, now the season is standing in front of us, I probably will re-rig the entire setup again. I will post a video on that later. I hope this helps a little, Hunt safely, and enjoy nature, Best regards Rene.

Real motorcycles only 😂😂👍👍 Thank for watching and commenting Drive safely, best regards Rene

Thank you for Watching and commenting, there is a few more good ones coming, within the next weeks time. Drive safely best regards Rene

Will do - promise - there are a few coming in the next weeks time. Drive safely, best regards Rene

Thank you for watching and commenting, your question is hard to answer, since it is a combination of labor, places taxes etc etc. but a new head and gasket set is approx 1800$ inclusive shipping and handling I would estimate. Then you need labor and all the small remedies as well on top of that. A proff shop could probably do it in 4-6 hours, however depending on the crankcase condition and other conditions this could very easily add up. I would imagine a job like this would easily end up in approximately 2800-3500$ minimum. Now all this could be avoided by proper cleaning and maintenance of the ski to start with, however there is no guarantees. I hope this will get you on your way, and give you an idea of the situation. Sail safely, best Regards Rene.

@@techtips101 thank you

Thank you 🙏

That is ok - thanks for watching and commenting, here is a link to a video on how to reset the computer : th-cam.com/video/aEAL_m-zsTg/w-d-xo.htmlsi=obLfd8bDoPmXA3uA Hope this will help you out, drive safely Best regards Rene

Well I would love to help - but can’t at the moment- what is the problem with the landy?

You are more than welcome 🙏 thank you for watching and commenting. Drive safely, best regards Rene.

Thank you - you are welcome. Yes the Amazon injectors are working fine until now. So it works. Actually it’s easier just to exchange them all with these instead of spending a lot of time cleaning the old ones. Drive safely, best regards Rene

Thank you and thanks for commenting and watching, I am happy if I inspired a few to do their own home maintenance. Drive safely best regards Rene

Super and thanks for watching and commenting- let us hear how you come along.

Thank you - yes i Will make some more 👍👍 Sail safely best regards Rene

You are more than welcome 🙏 Drive safely, best regards Rene

👍first thank you for watching commenting. Yes it does suck in sand, small shell and other deposits, which in turn will clog up the cooling system. If you run it on open water afterwards for a good ride more than 5 minutes at a good power setting you most likely will get most of the debris flushed out. However when you get the ski back on dock or trailer make sure to freshwater flush it, for 5 mins. After that give it a backflush since this will remove small shell or other debris, which was ingested but sitting in the bends on the cooling hoses before the engine. Don’t run it aground and stay away from sand bars when the engine is running. Turn it off when you reach the shore and it will function for many many years to come. Hope that helps Sail safely, best regards Rene

@@techtips101 thankyou for the feedback, I'd done exactly as you've said, bar the back flush, how do I do this? While engine is switched off?

No the engine has to be running, here is a small video on the technique. Not one of my videos - I might make one for you guys to see. But it works. th-cam.com/video/wwkBMRpvr7I/w-d-xo.htmlsi=_hKqj0RRJU5nO5aA Sail safely - best regards Rene.

@@techtips101 Thanks mate, really appreciate the advice

​​⁠you are more than welcome 🙏

You are welcome 👍👍

Thank you - and a lot of work. 👍 Thanks for watching and commenting Sail safely, best regards Rene

Thanks for asking and watching, no I made a custom setup, but it took me some time to adjust it. And it took a lot of shots before I was happy with the result. Hope that helps. Hunt safely, best regards Rene.

@techtips101 thanks for the get back, I have a ATN 5 series 4k and wss trying to do the same. Sny suggestion?

What were your actual settings?

The actual setting I can’t remember here at present - I am not at home at the moment, but as soon as I am - I will post it for you. Best regards Rene

Thank you for watching and commenting, yes the bipod I use was all bought in basspro shops. The picatinny rail was from there too. They do have a lighter bipod now which I would choose today since it’s easier to maneuver around when in the woods. I would definitely recommend to go to basspro and have a look. In the rifle section you should be able to find what you need. Hunt safely, best regards Rene.

@@techtips101 thanks for getting back to me on that. I've been trying to get this bipod and mount thing sorted for 3 years now. Today I've contacted a company in Canada and they've given me a price plus shipping on an excalibur bipod. Strangely not available in the UK. Mad old world eh. Thanks again and keep them coming 👍

Thank you - and thanks for watching and commenting too. I am happy that you like some of the tips, it’s even greater to hear I am not the only one who ended up with this problem. Awesome fix you made, did not occur to me that Starbucks have these straws, but sound really cool, hey whatever works is great. The brass fitting I used was for an any form of fuel system. I picked it up in advanced auto store, but from the storage room. Not in the shop. I had to go there and look for the right size, and think it was less than 10$. Drive safely, best regards Rene

You are more than welcome 🙏 Drive safely, Best regards Rene

Thank you so much - and thanks for sharing the content, watching and commenting as well. Will try to keep the content flowing as we face more troubles with the LR. I am glad you could use it and hope it will keep you on a fresh pair of wheels for years to come. Drive safely, best regards Rene

Thanks for watching and commenting, most likely if it is the temperature warning light and not oil, make sure to check correct oils quantity. Let it run idle for 5 mins and check oil level, if needed adjust and add oil. If that is ok, and problem persists, and if you don’t have and fail codes on the display, most likely it is a cooling problem. The Jetski if operated near shorelines or sandy sandbars, will ingest the sand and salt. Together if you are unlucky and maybe have a little residue left after flushing this creates a salt stone like substance and hardens up inside the cooling canal in the internal engine. If you are lucky, it can just be a small shell in one of the cooling hoses and you can take that away with a backflush most of the time. Search for backflush video on Jetski and there are lots of videos on the subject, I will make one in the future. I this doesn’t help you might be able to help yourself by cleaning the manifold and cylinder walls cooling canals as I have on this video. The engine is running hot very fast if it does not have access to free running cooling water. If you still have the problem it could be a little longer operation where you will have to take the engine apart and do a head job, since the salt stone most likely have settled inside the cylinder cooling canals and hardened, this needs to be removed in order to let the engine cool again at full speed. Most likely if there is a 1/4 inch salt there it will run hot after a certain time, at hard power, but will run at lower power settings without alarm. However it’s just a matter of time before it clogs up more. Here is a video on how to do the head job and cleaning as well: th-cam.com/video/qZGHGQ2RLf4/w-d-xo.htmlsi=4G6Xnr6gv5r6spgf Sail safely, best regards Rene

Your speedometer might be in Km/H and not Miles/hr. Ist a quick change on the display - in mode settings. However if it reads miles/H and reading too much it could be a calibration of the system that needs to be done and I don’t have a solution for this at hand. Hope this helps, best regards Rene

Thank you, and thanks for watching and commenting, will do. drive safely out there best regards Rene

Thank you for watching and commenting, the socket I use comes from a set of O2 sockets I actually bought from Amazon. I believe the size is a 22 mm with open slice side, in order not to destroy the wire when you install the new one. Here is the link for the set I used. a.co/d/0eeHYvB You can buy just the socket as well and they are a lot cheaper, 10-16$ and that will do the job too, however I use my set quite frequently, and that’s the reason I took the full set. Hope that helps and you get the o2’s fixed, it will take the check engine light away. Remember to reset the ECU computer for a new correct fuel trim use. If you forget, no worries it will just take a little longer to give you optimum parameters for the ecu. Drive safely, best Regards Rene

@@techtips101 thankyou

😃😀😂 yes you are right - but it was through the pandemic though Thanks for watching and commenting, drive safely

Hi there - and thanks for watching and commenting, the thermo sensor on your Jetski should be mounted on the side of your engine block, fastened by 2 screws. Check and download diagram below 👇 www.slideshare.net/slideshow/2005-yamaha-vx1100-cruiser-deluxe-sport-service-repair-manual/87765754 If you have problems with cooling and the temp horn and warning light comes on - be aware that most likely you have ingested foreign object like sand and shells into the engine and they are blocking your cooling system. A back flush can sometimes help you remove this debris, however if it is sand it tends to form and collect inside the cooling walls of the crank block. Time after time of use this gets heated up and down creating a pretty solid salt stone inside the engine, which in turn prohibits the water to cool the engine enough. The water can only access a part of the cylinder wall on the outside and therefore the ski runs hot. 🥵 you can sometimes be lucky to clean out you majority of the cooling channels from the exhaust manifold side and that might clear you problem for a while. Worst case you will need a new head job done and it time consuming and expensive too. I cannot recommend to operate the jet skis near sand bottom beaches since they stir up the sand and ingests it, resulting in a lot of problems. Here is a video of my experience with a lot of sand and a head change as a result: th-cam.com/video/qZGHGQ2RLf4/w-d-xo.htmlsi=KdMTvd9FaDb9bdya Here is a video on exhaust manifold and cleaning before taking the engine apart : th-cam.com/video/u6LWCmhM0qg/w-d-xo.htmlsi=sGqlR5bV4FubvkvI There are a lot of videos on how to backflush your Jetski so look for one of those too. I really hope this helps, and my apologies for a little late reply. Sail safely, best regards Rene

@@techtips101 thank you very much. the best help ever.

@@rafaelnakamura9935you are more than welcome 🙏 - I know it’s frustrating Sail safely, best regards Rene

Thank you for watching and commenting, I am happy you can use the video, let us know how you get along with the project. Drive safely, best regards Rene

@@techtips101I done everything you advised and it has cleared the transmission fault and parking brake fault. I did see signs of corrosion on the TCM so I was optimistic. HDC fault still remains but I don’t do any off-roading so I’m happy enough. I’ve built some confidence due to your video so thanks very much. Also saved me a small fortune. ❤

@@PAULBOGGIEsounds so great - i am happy to be able to help a little. It can be expensive to drive it to the shop. Your HDC problem could also be related to your brakes, make sure your two brake pads - front left and rear right are having the wire for wear and tear properly installed, and No lights on brakes in dashboard. The brake modulator needs full info in order to properly Drive safely, best regards Rene

Thank you 🙏 - will do that, drive safely, and thanks for watching and commenting Best regards Rene

Thanks for watching and commenting, to answer your question, I do not have that - but I will write that on my list and make one as soon as mine needs it. It’s a big job, and involves a lot of labor. - but I will make a video , thank you for the suggestion ;) Drive safely, best regards Rene.

Thank you for watching and commenting, I soaked it in overnight before installing it, it’s a little messy but works ok. If you have the ability to soak it - it’s a must. It doesn’t have to be a lot of oil just so the plates gets saturated and absorbes their new environment to gain their strength, so they won’t break when you start the Harley up. I hope that helps, drive safely, best regards Rene

Thank you for watching and commenting, it is definitely worth it to to and watch the elephants here. It is sooo nice. Hope you will enjoy it as much as we did. Be safe, best regards Rene

☀️yes ☀️

You are more than welcome 🙏 thanks for commenting and watching Drive safely, best regards Rene

Thanks for commenting and watching - I always fill mine up and make sure to replace or clean the filter inside too. I have had no issues since this practice so I would assume you could do the same. I am about to change mine again, and will try an experiment and let you know . Drive safely, best regards Rene

Thanks for watching and commenting - happy you liked it. 👍 Drive safely, best regards Rene

Thank you for watching - and commenting - I am so glad you could use the video - mine is still working and running nicely. Dive safely, best regards Rene

Hi there and thanks for watching and commenting. No you don’t have to - but make sure not to destroy the gasket when you place the gasket in its place. The head fits perfectly on the seat and with the dowels in place. You tighten the bolts the way I describe it and in that specific order. If you need the manual I can send it to you. Hope that helps, sail safely, best regards Rene.

Thanks for the quick response sir , I was told by the local mechanics in my area indian head was needed even though it never said so in the manual , I was also told to put Loctite on the head studs/bolts from my understanding all you need is engine oil right? And thank you again sir for the response Working on a VX110 for the first time and your video helps a lot

No you are good - only Oil on studs - no Loctite - Blue nor red - none. - clean the studs - put one droplet of engine oil on the rincles - same oil so you have the right measure measurements for the torch wrench. Hope that helps - best regards Rene

Actually a very good question, there could be numerous reasons, however the most common issues are : when you turn sharp right or left at slow speed you will hear a grinding or clunky noise from the front, this will disappear when you go straight. It’s the ball bearing inside the CV boot which is faulty. Typically happens when the cv boot has been defect and/or the grease inside has left the boot and do not cover and lubricate anymore. Corrosion and debris will over time deteriorate the bearing and will need replacement. If the defective CV boot is discovered in time, you can probably save the cv joint and bearing. The link in the CVjoint can be worn as well creating same sound. Hope that helps a little. I have a video on how to change the CV boot as well, it’s cheaper, however changing the shaft is easier and less dirty. Here is the cv boot change th-cam.com/video/N1pmW1_O2FM/w-d-xo.htmlsi=y0-MZIP7-ESK-Ri7 Thanks for watching and Commenting, I hope this will help a little. Drive safely, best regards Rene

Disconnect battery, pull spark plugs, remove plastic driveshaft cover. Place a wooden stick down into #1 cylinder (FORWARD-most cylinder), grab drive coupling and rotate counterclockwise (when looking from stern to bow) to get #1 piston to top dead center of compression stroke. With that set, feed timing chain onto crank and keep it pulled up snug against crank with bungee cord (or rope,etc)... Set your camshafts in place with timing dots facing up (the camshaft lobes FARTHEST FROM the timing chain, when looking from stern to bow, will face outward from each other at about 10 and 2 o'clock). Gently lift the bow end of each camshaft to slip under/engage chain, ensuring there's no slack in the chain both between the cams, and(!), and the starboard side from EXHAUST cam to crankshaft (the side opposite the tensioner). With cam covers torqued and tensioner installed, rotate engine using the drive coupler (again, counterclockwise) through 2 full revolutions stopping back at #1 piston top dead center, then verify the timing dots are facing up again and the 2 cam lobes are facing away from each other at 10 and 2 again. If they aren't, take tensioner back out, cam covers off and adjust the cam positions (all while #1 is at top dead center). If you encounter any resistance while hand-rotating the engine, STOP, do not force the rotation. Take the cams back off and reset #1 to top dead center of compression stroke (you had probably set top dead center of intake/exhaust stroke by mistake).

Thank you guys - exactly like that a and if you want the manual for the engine sent to you by email I will be happy to provide you with a PDF of that manual. It is well explained in there and there are pretty ok illustrations as well Sail safely and enjoy you jet skis. Best regards Rene

Realized after I wrote my initial post (as I was doing it from memory, my apologies) I errored in which cylinder to reference as #1. Have edited the post with the corrections in CAPS. As a tip, put the exhaust cam in before the intake cam (leave the center cam cap off and the other 2 loose so you can slide it very slightly aft when you go to put the intake cam in). Again, ensure no chain slack between crank and exhaust cam. It's a bit tricky to get the intake cam in to get it's dot lined up. You may find a small amount of slack in the chain between the cams and the dot looks like it's 1 cam tooth off. Before you panic, put all the cam caps on and stick your finger in the tensioner hole and push on the cam guide and see if both the slack between the cams goes away and the dot now lines up (if not, try again with getting the intake cam on the right tooth.

​@@patx7720this is awesome. I knew everything in the first post already but my brother in law has had issues getting it to line up (im still overseas)... I'm sure these tips will get us all lined up. Thanks so much.

Thanks for commenting and watching. The module is located in the back of the battery case just like shown on video. It is held right with the plug itself and then some plastic clips that needs to be released. Then you tip the TCM module outward from the top and it should come out easy. The wires might be a little in the way but just take your time and be careful not to break the wires. Hope that helps best regards Rene Drive safely.

​@@techtips101thanks, most helpful, I was able to remove it. Appreciate your video.

Thank you so much for watching and commenting. I am so happy you could use the content of the video. I must say that I am about to change the desiccant again in the near future on mine. It an easy fix and works wonders on the suspension or at least the warning lights associated with this problem, depending on if you are in cold or hot and humid environments. Changing the desiccant is not a complete science but it will save you the money on a compressor at a later stage and could be worth it. It also relatively small amount of time invested and you will enjoy it for some years again. Drive safely, best regards Rene

Thank you for watching and commenting, I am glad you could use it. And yes your compressor could be suffocating and not be able to lift and produce enough air within the timeframe to rise the car and then it simply times out. I bought the kit easy on Amazon, and I believe you can order it on Amazon UK as well. Less than 20 GBP Drive safely, best regards Rene