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@@masterroshimagazines4354 2 stage paint. Same process as painting a car.

@@AindreyBahnam Some flywheels have an eccentric bolt pattern. Try rotating the flywheel until all the holes line up perfectly.

I’m not super familiar with the chassis wiring on the r34 but I’d imagine If it’s like other Nissans running the wire inside the frame would be nearly impossible. as long as it’s pulled up away from the wheel it will be fine and it’s not something anyone will ever see.

I do a lot more than parking in the garage, I’m wrenching almost every day. It’s definitely the cheapest route for a floor coating and it’s held up OK. It’s not very resistant to harsh chemicals such as fuel, brake fluid, brake clean ect.

Thanks man! I’ve got another video in the works, keep an eye out.

Z1 motorsports

I would not recommend adding chips as it is no where near the same as epoxy. This is a cheap alternative. It’s been a few years since I applied it and for the most part it has held up ok. Certain chemicals do damage it such as fuel, brake fluid ect. Eventually I will be applying another coat in certain areas that are more effected. It hasn’t been slippery in my experience

Ah ok, thanks for the info. 👍

Yes you can get drunk off the ethanol as long as you don't mind drinking the 15% gasoline that's mixed in with it.

@@240Trevor alas! Tis a little spicy!

Late reply I know but I know what you mean. The normal electrical tape tends to fall apart and be a sticky mess to work with. For the cars I build I often have to go back in and modify wiring after some time for upgrades and this tape tends to hold up well over time and is much less nasty when its time to unwrap.

I used a 2 part epoxy from amazon

I just used what I had on hand.

Once it’s started it runs great. And seems to have a better start when still warm

I’m building this car for a friend and he wasn’t interested in painting the bay. The zip ties will hold up fine I have used them for this in the past. Metal ties should be used on exhaust wrap though. Check out my previous videos if you want to see how I would normally do an engine bay when I’m not restricted to what the customer wants.

ah ok thanks. I am pretty inexperienced with turbos etc so I wasn't sure. Thanks man. @@240Trevor

they make stainless steel zip ties get them from harbor freight.

ohh good tip, thanks man. I'll get me some next time I am their. @@Megacatares

@@Megacatares Yea I generally use them on exhaust parts but high quality zip ties hold up just fine on turbo lines.

Thanks man. The lift is a bend pack GP-7

If I reach 600 subs in 24 hours I’ll buy the tool.

If it has that much current going through it melted solder is going to be the least of your problems 😂

That’s that fuses are for ^

The terminal itself will likely melt if this happens

watch the reel again. I demonstrated the strength.

I will one day but this has worked fine for me for many years

Seems to work fine for me.

@@240Trevor That's not justification to recommend bad practice to others

@@adamlr0130 Been doing it this way for many years in many cars. Never an issue.

For solder to penetrate the copper you have to get the copper above the solder melt temperature in order for it to correctly flow and bond with the copper. When soldering it on a big lug like this you need tons of heat for a long time as the copper will wick the heat down the wire. Doing it your way, dipping it in molten solder with maybe a short continued burst of heat will form a superficial bond at best as it will solidify on first contact with the copper, which might work, but electrically and mechanically will be pathetic. Just change your method, hammer it to get any half decent crimp then heat the whole thing up and solder it. The insulation will get damaged, but you'll at least have something half decent. Better yet, ditch the solder and just crimp it properly. You are trying to post an educational video, take your own thinking and consider it.

Yea?

This is a common method and it’s even used on aircraft. At the end of the video I pulled on it pretty hard demonstrating the strength. I have ran connections like this for years with no problems at all.

@@240Trevor The fact that you are incapable of being corrected - there are 5 other comments here from people who know better than you saying that this is not recommended and is a BAD idea - makes you the worst kind of idiot. An idiot who is incapable of learning and so stuck in his ego that he doesn't care about the consequences of his actions.

This is a common method and it’s even used on aircraft. If your wiring is getting hot enough to melt solder you did something else wrong.

​@@240Trevor Not really - you're replacing the direct connection of the connector and wire with solder. Solder has higher resistance. This means for anything where you're working with a low resistance load you're making a hot point. If you crimp and your connector gets hot - you don't really care. It's probably a good enough heatsink anyway with all the wire. If you do this and your connector gets hot - the solder can start softening - making more of a hot point - eventually leading to - at best - the wire and connector separating. Try running 100A+ down that cable for 5 minutes and then do that tug test and you'll see what I mean.

@@UKMonkey Car battery cables see hundreds of amps during operation and sometimes close to a thousand during starting. And still not a single one of my connections have ever failed. I have worked in many performance automotive shops and have connections like this on dozens of vehicles. If your connections are getting hot enough to melt solder then something is wrong with your wiring and the terminals themselves are probably melting as well.

Just nowhere with variable current draw, single wiring in aircraft but not power connections, they should be crimped with and 11 ton hydrolic crimper.

Actually very good suggestions here. Thanks man.

Go to a stain glass shop to buy a huge soldering iron.

Also, using a bit of heat shrink rather than tape for better fatigue resistance.

This is a common method and it’s even used on aircraft. At the end of the video I pulled on it pretty hard demonstrating the strength. I have ran connections like this for years with no problems at all.

@@240Trevor I did watch it again same results. I have been doing these kind of things for decades. Simply buy a $60 hydraulic crimping tool and crimp them to begin with and then solder them. Then you have a physical bond and electrical bond. If your eyelid does not have a hole in the front, you can drill a small hole, so you can also fill it with solder from that in after crimping but do not drill it large enough to compromise the physical strength of the eyelet. I once did mine the same way the video shows until someone taught me the correct way. Furthermore, the tugging of cable had very little force behind it. Guess it looks good for Video. lol but don’t take my opinion. Research the Internet so you know the proper way before you try to teach somebody something.

You are correct sir, any solder joint should have a physical connection first if possible

@@larrypugh9662 Trust me there is plenty of force on the cable when I tug it. All I know is it’s proven and reliable for me. If it works it works. Sure I could go above and beyond but I’m not planning on lifting cars with this wire, it’s not an elevator cable.

@@240Trevor ok sir, it’s OK we have different opinions. Have a good day. God bless you and yours.

Idk man been running a connection like this on my car for almost 10 years, no problems. If your connections are getting hot you did something wrong.

No flux?

@@veniaminkisliuk927 This solder has flux inside it.

You sure you are not talking about the stuff you build in minecraft? LOL

​@@240Trevorunfortunately that's not how a resin core Works. When you melt it like that you burn off all the flux and are left with a dry solder. This will not properly stick or penetrate to the interior of your wire. I would suggest tinning you're wire first but I think it will severely melt your wire jacket with heavy gauge

I appreciate that man. I’m still really new to TIG and this was my first piece that’s actually going on a customer car. I suppose I felt comfortable going for it because Greddy kinda dropped the ball. Thanks for the sub, it really helps!

I still have a long way to go but next time you are in my area drop by and I can show you what I have picked up so far.

Glad you are happy with the work so far! I will get your car right in no time!

Thanks bro

They are still holding up great. Great way to increase the life of these fragile door panels.