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@@toneranger tracked separately. Thier Tube overdrive pedal sounds great. Stay away from the bass distortion one, though.

It's a bit of a learning curve. It's a bit hard to fret octaves down the far end. Also, fret markers in the fretboard would help me figure out where I am at the upper end. It does have some ergonomic advantages. Also, keeps the low strings tight and the high strings slinky.

Thanks. Here's the finished track. th-cam.com/video/KBZ4cXnNdt0/w-d-xo.htmlsi=sx-s1E_MAX-jpQas

@chrismod1967 I assume you're using this live? If your PA has an insert that you can send your vocal channel to, I suggest using that. Then you can compress harder and mix the effect in with your clean sound until you hear feedback. Good luck.

@MrDonkybonk You're very welcome. If your PA has an insert that you can send your vocal channel to, I suggest using that. Then you can compress harder and mix the effect in with your clean sound until you hear feedback. Good luck.

Will you do an update video eventually?

I have one, back when it was called a 'sub-zero' where the red G4M logo is. It's actually a great guitar, sounds good too. The low end is clear enough, but I think there is truth in that the pickups could be better. They're not awful though. The only thing I really don't like is that the nut keeps spiking me between my thumb and index finder whenever I'm using the first fret. It's very sharp. I don't know what to do about it, maybe sand down the angle a bit but other than that I play this beast a lot and if you just use an EQ pedal you can pretty much get any sound you like out of it. The sound difference between the humbuckers is quite wide mind you, as in one sounds quite a lot different to the other. So I'd say that's a plus because it gives you more of a variation to play with. It is light, the neck is thin profile for speed and it's matt smooth to prevent your hand from sticking. Highly recommend. NOTE: I almost forgot to mention, when adjusting the intonation the saddle screws collide with each other. For example, there's one screw at the bottom of the saddle into the body, and the other to twist which pulls back or pushes forward the little bridge. That screw makes contact with the head of the screw into the body on some of them, which means you have to take the body screw out altogether if you need to pull it out which you probably will as you need to make room for the string to come through the hole from the back of the body. It was a stressful nightmare but now you know and it shouldn't be too big of an issue.

@@MonsterJuiced thanks for the great reply! With the reversed headstock, is finding strings any difficult?

@@Balsfjordproductions no not at all, you just have to remember that this is multi scale so you need strings to match that. I got a set of 80's I think and the scale length of the guitar is 28" to 25". If I recall correctly, you can check the specs of this on the website

@@Noname-zv6fc MXL990

@StellaWembley it might help to use a Y splitter cable and plug it into the insert of the channel you want to compress. Otherwise you're raising the noise floor of every part of your mixer, not just one channel. Also, if the reamp box is quiet, have you tried dialling the sustain right up to meet the level the box is putting out? Or does the reamp box have a gain knob you can turn up?

Thanks!

Thanks man. I hope it works out for you. Here's the finished track. th-cam.com/video/KBZ4cXnNdt0/w-d-xo.htmlsi=B9ki1Nifs2JQU5am

You're welcome

I know right. I think there's something to be said for hitting the converters at a unified level. I've had keyboard warriors tell me that there's no need for that with the head room in today's interfaces, but the results speak for themselves.