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😂Volvo penta 3,0 benzin140hp/1997 volve ajustment admisie ? Output ? 🤗😊🥰 fenku very maci ! ❤

Fourteen years later and your video is still helping others. This is the type of old school tutorial video that made YT so popular. No flashy editing, no crappy music, no product endorsements, just good instructional information. Thank you!

Hi. Thanks for your video, this helps! I have recently a ticking noice in this engine. Does anyone knows what it could be and how I resolve this? Great thanks, Eddie Netherlands

Hola saludos desde España, a cuántos grados de avance hay que poner el distribuidor gracias

Best video ever explained properly give it a 10

Where did you find a online manual?

Great Job..

Best help I have found even 12 years later all the marine mechanics over complicate it

I actually don’t even remove the accelerator pump lever either. There linkage and the air horns always come off fine without doing it.

I just “Operation Game” that choke lever, lol. Works perfectly every time!

Great Job! But there has to be a better way to do this other than by feel.

I just recently found your videos and I have just rebuilt the 4.3 l 1996 MerCruiser everything's rebuilt got the motor back in the boat but I not really remembering how to wire up the distributor do you have any links I can find also for the alternator 90% ready to go but I'm just not sure where the three wires in the back of the distributor and the wires on the alternator

I have the same engine and have low compression on cylinder 3. Air is coming out of the carburetor. Could this procedure on cylinder 3 intake valve potentially fix my issue? 50 hour engine that sat in a barn 10+ years. Possibly cylinder 3 intake valve was open during that time and corrosion has set in. Thoughts?

Just what I needed - saved me a lot of time with a wiring diagram. Thanks!

My 3.0 makes that noise too. Did the rocker make the noise quit?

thanks a lot!

Thank you

Hydraulic diver loaded or unloaded?

⁰

Thanks for this video! I have a 1994 Mercrusier 3.0 litre. My issue is that when the boat is cold it runs and sounds good. After 3-5 minutes at full throttle I get some popping. I'll back the throttle down to no wake, the popping goes away and I hear a ticking that lasts for about five minutes and then it goes away. If I throttle up again, the popping will come back repeating the cycle. The problem started with a sudden bogging down while pulling a tuber. I think I had bad gas with ethanol. I started using non ethanol fuel, put a can of seafoam with each 5 gallon can of non ethanol gas. I replaced the fuel filter at the base of the engine and cleaned the filter inside the carb. I replaced the spark plugs and by this time the bogging was gone but the popping was still there and then I noticed the ticking at no wake. I changed the ignition coil but the problem persists. I will change the distributor cap, rotor and spark plug wires tomorrow after getting them from the marina who had to order them. It that doesn't fix the problem, what should I address next? Thanks for your help!

very nice video to help adjust the vales on 3.0

fuel starvation.. prime it !

Aviation tech here, Great video thank you! On the water right now doing this adjustment without manual.

1.E____1 - I_____2 2.I_____3 - E----------------360=4 3.E_____5 - I-----------------360=6 4.I_____7 - E----------------360=8 • Turn motor over to compression stroke, both number 1 and 2 valves closed, make sure crank notch is aligned to 0 on timing tab, proceed to adjust valves 1,2,3,5,7 Going from front of motor towards transom, start by spinning push rod and tighten rocker nut until valve lash is removed “push rod should barely spin rocker arm should not wiggle or have play= zero lash” After zero lash is reached proceed to tighten rocker nut additional ¾ turn • Turn motor 360 degrees, placed crank notch back to 0 on timing tab, proceed to adjust valves 4,6,8 to Zero lash, After zero lash is reached proceed to tighten rocker nut additional ¾ turn • For extra measure, spin motor another 360 and check for zero lash on valves 1,2,3,5,7, spin another 360 and check 4,6,8. I found that 2 of my lifters would leak down and cause the rocker arm to bounce around. Hints the engine noise I kept hearing. Also if your having trouble finding the compression stroke you can turn motor over until mark on crank notch lines up with "0" mark on timing tab, and engine is in No. 1 firing position. This may be determined by placing fingers on No. 1 valve as mark. If valves move as mark comes up to timing tab, engine is in No.4 firing position and should be turned over one more time to reach No. 1 position.

OMG thank you! The mercruiser book was so confusing!

little clip from needle must not be hanged in the holes ......it must just hang from the inside out on the float.

4 banger.. should be a good economical boat.. I want it !

jiggling the throttle makes the accelerator pump prime the motor.. always a good idea. or get a squirt bottle

Parfait merci bcp 🤙

great video! thanks! :D

Sharing which valves can be adjusted by cylinder and I or E is a huge time saver! Looks like a couple of people don't clearly understand how hydraulic lifters work, Thanks again.

Holy cow. When taking apart my carb a small metal piece fell out. After many part diagrams I discovered it was a Intermediate Choke Lever but still had no idea how to install it, or where it went... until today. Thank you!

Excellent series, but noted the same as below, the hook for the needle valve is supposed to hook over back side of the float mount, not in the holes. Supposedly it can flood if the hook is put in the holes, maybe it causes the needle to hang up some how. Thanks a lot for putting this on you tube, it is a GREAT help! I had heard for year that the Q-Jet is complex to rebuild but I did not find that to be the case when I did mine on my '88 OMC 4.3 4bbl. The main tricks are being careful with re-assembling the air horn to the bowl keeping the metering rods in the right place. That and fishing the choke rod on the left side through (bright LED flashlight helps with lining the link up with the hole in the lower lever).

I am thinking of undertaking this job as the video explains it so well. I take it the spark plugs need to be removed before cranking to get oil going? Also how do I rotate 360° after adjusting first set of valves? I don't have external starter but would use key ignition. Thanks for advice.

Why even bother with the pin,, im no expert but just disconnecting the linkage tends to work.. Why would you take it off..

Just to let you know,, others have stated many times,, not to fish the hook in the holes..

OK? What exactley does it mean when you inform us to rotate it 360 degrees? Am the only stupid one here?

Great video! On a new lifter, are you able to squeeze them in when pushing on push rods? Mine are very hard to push but I've seen on cars that the lifters can be squeezed in by hand. Just want to know if I need to change them or not

I need to thank you a couple hundred times because without these videos I wouldn’t have been able to rebuild my carburetor

Good. Thanks for the video.

I do not understand when you turn the engine 360 degrees after adjusting the valves as you showed, then what?????? Do I just start the engine?

Excellent video man! Very well explained thank you!

Thanks man, you cleared so much up for me. Mine is backfiring and will not start think its valves or distributor timing. Thanks man

Hello i had to replace the timimg cover and it dosnt have the timimg mark tab so now what?

Thank you for taking the time to post this. I am getting ready to test an engine soon............

I know this is old but anyway you could share your manual?

This worked perfect!!! thanks

how do you wire the start engine button?

Thanks that is the exact carburetor I have thanks for the video I'd be lost if you hadn't helped me.