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There is a section at about 15 minutes that talks about engineering vs true. I am mostly talking about engineering curves in the video though. True curves are mostly used in instances where one is interested in what we call "flow stress" which is the stress required to continually deform a material at a given temperature. This is very important in processes like forging or rolling. The reason you use true curves in those instances is 1. Those processes usually occur in compression where there is no localized necking 2. You're interested in the bulk deformation of the material throughout and not so worried about surface related deformation phenomenon. I hope this helps!

@@sadowstorm1 you shouldn't have to hit run. It should just be like your kitchen oven. Turn it on, set the temperature. If it's in local mode it should just start heating

@@dukeproctor7592 I'm sorry but I don't work in that lab and don't recall off the top of my head. I would try either the reset button or flipping through setting options under the mode button.

@@sciencestuffandthings5288 OK TKS

Sorry I am not sure. I recommend reading the manual if you have it. I think it's also available online.

Thanks for your comment! You can use the NIS software for that I believe. Just have to get an image of a calibrated scale at the same magnification to set calibration of the scale bar in the software.

Hello. Thanks for your comment. I am not sure what you are asking. Are you wanting to open up the face of the controller? I believe you have to do that from inside the furnace by removing the side panels.

@@sciencestuffandthings5288 cut you please help me change the buttons from lock to unlock , thanks

Hello and thanks for your comment! I am sorry but I won't be able to do this for you for a couple reasons 1. This is an electric furnace and none of the lab furnaces are setup for combustion heating control at our lab. 2. I am no longer at this lab anyways so I wouldn't have access to this particular furnace or controller to make another video. I would suggest reaching out directly to eurotherm and asking the technical staff your questions about setting up a combustion furnace. A different controller may be more appropriate also. I am not sure.

problem is when the program is in ramp down state my exhaust valve not switching to open position.

@@dano_gaming28 hello. Thanks for watching. This particular furnace and controller don't have any active cooling controls. All the controller does is control whether there is power going to the heating elements or not and how much. So the fastest the furnace can cool is what is called a furnace cool. I am sure you can add extra features to do controlled cooling like exhaust and fans, but this model doesn't come with it and I didnt have anything extra wired to my controller.

Hello Sir, Thanks for your reply. I guess I have to do troubleshooting to my wiring system. Thanks

I'm not sure. This software is setup for use with Nikon cameras independent of the microscope setup. I'm not sure if the Nikon software is compatible with Sony hardware.

If it's like @francorubeeto9186 problem I would recommend checking the thermocouples and fuses like you said, just to make sure. In both cases it seems like, assuming all the electrical components are working and you did all the standard steps in the video, then it may be a controller problem. I am not sure how to do a hard reset although I'm sure there is a way to do it. Consider contacting Eurotherm for more instructions. Sorry I couldn't provide a more direct, helpful response. Thanks for watching. Good luck!

I'm sorry but I'm not sure. I would try contacting eurotherm. I only have experience with the models in my videos on my page because that's what was in our lab. Thanks for watching

It sounds like your polarizing filters may be bad or need cleaned. Have you tried that? If the camera takes good images without the filter, then it shouldn't be an issue with the software or the camera or the microscope lens.

Sorry for the delayed reply. I'm not sure what the solution is. I would try contacting eurotherm. Thanks for watching

Hello, Thanks for your comment. 1. Box furnaces are not air tight so it is very hard to maintain an insert atmosphere. I suggest a tube furnace for that if you have one and the material is small enough. If the heat treatments are very hot or the material is very reactive to O, the box furnace is hard to use. 2. If you have to use the box furnace, make sure you are flowing nitrogen continuously during the heat treatment to displace the atmospheric air that may be coming in. If you run it, and the O content is still too high, increase the flow rate during the heat treatment. 3. We often encase our samples that are reactive in small glass tubes that are sealed to the air and are full or pure nitrogen or argon. This is more expensive, but if you have a good glass blower like we do at Penn State, they can set you up well and then you don't have to worry about running shielding gas at all. The glass will break easily after the heat treatment by either a hammer or thermal shock. Let me know if this is helpful. These are my best suggestions for these issues.

@@sciencestuffandthings5288 Thank you so much for your response. Is it possible or allowed to use a vacuum pump to this furnace?

@@achyuthbharadwaj8821 hello. I'm glad that was helpful. I would not suggest using a vacuum pump. The furnace does not seal to the atmosphere so all the vacuum will do is pull more air into the furnace. You may even damage your pump.

What do you need to know?

I would suggest local mode if you don't have specific heating rates or other steps in mind. If you do, then you can easily write a program following this video. Let me know if there's any step that trips you up.

Can you teach me how to set it up? The stove is second-hand, so there are no instructions。thanks you

Hello. Thanks for checking out the video. It sounds like a screen issue. I do not know if a setting to change the brightness.

I have no idea about the display. My last advice is to check the heating elements. If it's not passing current at all (the gauge sitting at zero), and you've checked the fuse, then that is my last suggestion. If it's not that, then it's likely a faulty controller and you will have to replace that piece. Since it is still reading room temperature as 45 C, it sounds like there's either an issue with the controller or the thermocouple. Since you tried to change the thermocouple, I suggest reaching out to the company that makes the controller for support. Sorry the walkthrough isn't more help

Hello. Thanks for your comment and for watching! Is the furnace actually at 45C or is that just what the display says? It sounds like it could be a thermocouple issue. When you start it, the reading should be room temp. If it's higher than that then something seems wrong with the thermocouple. If the furnace also never gets hot, it's possible that the thermocouple has led to a blown fuse inside the furnace.

Assuming it's the same furnace as well as the same controller, to access the fuse, you have to take off the left side panel and look at the bottom. The fuse is pretty easy to get to from there. It's easy to test with a multimeter and a replacement is about $15 online if needed. If I had to start though, I would evaluate your thermocouples.

Thank you for the quick reply. Apparently, I cannot post a comment with my email, because both times I did, they disappear. So, I checked the fuses and they are good. I deduced the burnt wires were to the thermometer. I was able to go to local and program mode. The amp meter doesnt show power. I will replace the thermal wiring since they were burnt and perhaps cutting them back might not be enough. Oh, and the secondary temp controller is a Honeywell DC100L.

Not sure what a thermocouple is. Could you post a picture or an explanation. Ty

I think a thermocoupling is what I call the thermometer. Ok, so how do I check if is bad? On top of the oven the wires leading to were burnt off. I am going to replace the wiring with thermo wiring and try again. If it is the thermocoupling, getting a replacement from you? Or where? I tried calling Lindberg but all the numbers in our manual are Disconnected. Found a site for them....awaiting reply.

I am not sure about that actually.