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Im subscibing as also a beginner at soldering and im liking that you dont come across cocky in anyway so well done

Now make an ultra slim version of it 😆

Great work!

My god, looks like the xbox was home to zergs 😅. Not to be "that guy" but compared to your last video the added music in the previous one made a huge difference :). As I was typing this there was music starting, but I still think it should be throughout but that's just me 😉 Fantastic job with the port. I know for a fact that I would have messed that up. The skillometer will be maxed out in no time ^^ massive congrats. Micro soldering for sure 7. Fault finding a 10 :)

Another great fix Dwayne. Watching you learn like me gives me confidence. I did two of these over the weekend for the first time and it was daunting but i followed Joey Does Tech's method of dropping the port in from the top and it was so much easier.Its just a reverse of taking it out,you just pre fill the holes first and tin the pads and pins then just drop in. Keep the great videos coming mate.

Nice fix mate! I subscribed 🙂

Nice, i was in the same situation back in the days with a Ps one and i just leave it maybe was the same like this with those smd capacitors?

Good days was buying bricks in 17 hrs as the first jigkick came out. ( no didn't buy it was there to follow the walk through) umm still have 2 1001s for the ir port and a slim

Your AI is broken bud

Really love the psp. Happy to see still people trying to repair them. Keep up your content dude. Really like it

Another great video Dwayne. And i love the idea of the skill-o-meter lol

I’m traumatised

Yaaaay Dwayne making my Friday at work bearable ^^.Nice background beats! We have that hand thing in Sweden as well 😂. Another thing related to punching is "gul bil" which means "yellow car". Since yellow cars are kinda rare here, whenever you see a yellow car you shout "GUL BIL!" and you can punch your friends on the shoulder. Me and another mate frequently went to a bus terminal location and we extended the rules to include busses. Fortunately, city busses in my area are green. But guess what color busses going between cities have 😂. Needless to say, we didn't last more than maybe 15 minutes. Great, easy fix and awesome that the switch can be enjoyed once more. Like the idea of the skillometer. Today youll get a 10 for fault finding and a 6.5 on efficiency soley due to the fact that you tried to fix the broken port first, instead of jut being lazy and swapping it out right away. But you get a 11 in effort and a 20 in concentabillity. Cheers :)

Nice quick fix. I might of put a spare or another switch and the non working one both under the microscope to compare. Maybe more going on than just that one pin. When working with bending any thin metal there is a chance that something bent changes to something broken off completely. I try to stay away from trying to get them perfect and instead start testing to see if it works with minimal bending. Rating system seems fair. Nothing wrong with starting low. Efficiency is a difficult one to pin down. You are thinking of it as per repair. Less efficient work with more learning might be more effective long term. Some faults can take weeks to identify. The more you understand the better you can troubleshoot. Sometimes a particularly hard problem I will revisit after 6 months or years and be able to solve it. Being able to make good assumptions qbout what you have to pay attention to and what you don't or in other words narrowing scope of the problem is key in efficiency. One has to not forget that if something isnt adding up that one has to reassess those assumptions/narrowed scope.

Super interesting video! I've always been curious on how to dissassemble, reassemble, repair and upgrade consoles and computers alike. I recently just got my IT career started and absolutely love troubleshooting issues, so this is right up my alley!!! Hope to see many more videos like this from you in the future ^^

There might be a wiring diagram for that controller online. It would confirm those 2 pins are ground. The xbox v1.0-1.4 work fine without a clock cap but the v1.6 wont boot at all. Before i could afford a soldering gun i used a sewing pin the one with the coloured ball on top. Solder doesn't stick to it so i would heat up the pad and push the sewing pin through. It will create a hole which new caps will go through easy. For me it worked a treat.

Sir you have spelled the word display wrong, you wrote dispaly

After wicking the solder from through holes you can use the solder iron against each pin by heating it and pushing it away from the edge of the through hole. Often there is a bit of solder left and it's still attached to the side of the hole. I usually test each pin to be loose with some tweezers before pulling the component out. The port pinout is 5 pins but the cable going to the controller seems to be 6 pins. The 6th pin looks different and I am wondering if it's actually the cable shield connected to outer metal shield of the plug? Would make sense that it is shorted to ground? Did you test the controller plugged in and powered on to see if you had 5V? Powered off did you check white/blue data+/data- resistance to ground? I think it is red 5V, white USB-, green USB+, yellow Vsync, Black ground, heatshrunk shield which is probably grounded on the PCB? If it has a sat for a really long time sometimes the crystal or crystal oscillators become stuck. Do you have an oscilloscope? You've got two of them right beside that connector. Looks like 6MHz and maybe 8k or 8MHz? Just will be a sine wave at that frequency. The other thing you can do is put your meter in resistance/continuity/diode mode and probe both ways on that crystal. This is often enough for me to wake them up. For the capacitors buy yourself an Peak Atlas ESR75 meter. You'll be able to test most capacitors in circuit for ESR and capacity. Anything in parallel you'll have to check continuity and divide for capacity. Reversing the probes can help depending on the circuit if one way doesn't work. You'll find that caps near anything that gets hot tend to be the dead ones. Anything you can't measure with the ESR in circuit you can take out and test out of circuit.

Great video. Seems you've grown more confident in your soldering/de-soldering! Super surprised that drilling the thumbsticks actually worked well. Regarding the controller. It's quite old so are you sure all the solder is fine? Getting continuity where you're supposed to get it? Would be nice to know what kind of faultfinding you did on it exactly. Ripping of the caps sounds dangerous for the board. A tip could be to remove the cap, and then mark the spot with a marking-pen of some sort :). Nice fix. I would love to see these things in the future: - Revisit on the controller - Completing the recap. Also, well done on the editing (both visually and with audio/music!)!

So inspirational seeing you having the cojones to do things you're not confident in at all. We all make msitakes in everything and the best teacher is failure. And Yes I am aware that I watch your videos out of order 😂

I didn't expect that thing to turn on, well done. Fantastic to see your reaction and happiness when you realized it's alive :)

Seeing you checking out the hard drive size immediately got me thinking about my video where I fixed an abandoned xbox one. Was also a dead hard drive (and a lot of dust 😂). Had a spare drive lying around that was on 500gig, same as the original. Great job. Hope all comments, views and likes keep you going with the amazing content :)

I'll take it friend

Great fix Dwayne, I had one with the same issue and i knew it was hdd when i couldn't boot into safe mode or even sync a controller. I always try the easy things first.

Great fix. Another tip for Xbox One S and X consoles with no display - always start with in this order. Test HDD with Crystal Disk Info if its bad then move onto HDMI port inspection then Retimer / Redriver and then onto Booster IC. Those are common no video issues

Nice easy fix!

Great video! some sections were a little bit too quite for my liking and I started to wonder if my headset died on me 😅. Other than that, good work and really cool seeing the psp come to life. The PSP reminds me of the day me and my wife met for the first time so that console has a special place in my heart. Looking forward to what you come up with next :)

Subbed. I myself am a total noob at fixing electronics. Ive actually broken more than ive fixed 😆 😂

For the shiny plastics get yourself some Polywatch polishing compound. It it used primarily to clean plastic watch lenses but works on most plastic surfaces.

get needle point probes mate

Great result in the end. Just a couple of tips for the switch removal. Low melt solder is ideal to use in that type of situation. As for refitting the switch, clean off all the pads, then add solder to just one of them. Mount the switch to the tinned pad and fine tune its position until happy with it, then solder up the other three pins. That way it ensures that it is mounted flush to the board. More tips to follow, Karl.

Well done on getting it back up and running. The two diodes in the backlight circuit are always out of alignment, but they are always connected. If you are seriously interested in more repairs like this i would suggest investing in some needle probes for your meter. You can pick up some cheap add ons that connect to your original probe tips. I would also look at using diode mode when probing the components as it can give you much more info about what you are measuring. Plenty of info on-line. Keep on learning, Karl

The port needs to be seated flat or you will not have connection to the pads underneath. I would also redo the pads you have also worked on. M92 does need its caps in place. When removing or refitting charge ports use a larger nozzle or no nozzle at all. Use 450 degrees and 50% flow. Better to heat the area quickly and get the job done before the heat spreads around the board. Karl

A few observations for you. I would try to never apply force to a component or bend a component attached to a PCB. You will rip the back off the PCB when the PCB is weak or you are working on less modern PCBs. Luckily modern PCBs are very forgiving. Older PCBs can delaminate/bubble with too much heat, traces tend to break off easy, etc. When using wick if you use a shorter piece or a thinner wick and it will soak up less heat from the soldering iron. Also when going to remove the wick keep applying the iron heat that way it won't get stuck. You want to avoid moving the wick without the iron on it as it can solidify and rip things off. When wicking up solder I watch the solder being pulled into the wick to gauge if I have either saturated that portion of the wick or if it's finished wicking all the solder.

Good on you for making and sharing these videos. It's easy to start feeling defeated and incompetent, trying to figure this stuff out when the vast majority of content is made by professionals who make it all look effortless and fast. Watching someone else stumble their way through the process while staying motivated to learn and get better is a nice comfort. A solid reminder that it takes time and patience to get this stuff down.

Good job

When adjusting those diodes wait for the solder to change phase visually and don't take away the hot air when manipulating with the tweezers. Add more flux if yours has blown away. For diodes you want diode mode on your meter. In that situation if you can't quite see the traces to figure out where the resistors and diodes connect. Try putting some IPA onto the board. It will create a lens and make things clearer. Obviously zoom in further if you can, clean the board, etc. Can use the same trick to read what's written on hard to read ICs. I can't quite tell but the probes might have been too big. Probes could be smaller and sharper. Especially larger round ones can get flux caked up on them. Use IPA to clean. Looks like you are just barely getting in there onto the pads with these small components. Probemaster are very nice but you can get cheap good silicone test leads with sharper smaller tips. Congrats on the fix!

good stuff. keep it up.

Good Job! 🎮📺

Awesome dude well done. So pleased you we're able to fix it. Watching other peoples videos make it look so easy doesn't it?

well done on the fix mate .. to make things easier if you knock off a component replace the solder to leaded it will flow into place quicker . i fix them myself and know how hard it is , keep up the good work

Port should be more flush to the board even with that jumper wire. Before trying to install m92 add solder to the pads on the ic aswell

Well done Dwayne,and well done for sticking with it. Lets hope its the first of many succesfull repairs.

Congrats on the repair. Glad you got it going again. I remember fixing my first switch and seeing the charging symbol I literally jumped for joy. One thing - It looked like the charger was a bit tough to put into the port? Could be flux? Maybe clean it out or could be burnt plastic in the port when reflowing. Other than, well done!

Well done on getting it going 😀👍

Another great video Dwayne. Keep learning,i'm learning along with you and finding the same frustations when trying to solder.

M92 needs the cap. With the switch lite. You only really need to get the one row soldered on the USB c port. With the normal switches both rows are needed as it’s needed for docking. Since you still got no power both ways. I would say fix the cap first then move onto the port. Use a bigger nozzle and I prefer flux with port removal and attachment

Man, I remember some years ago when i bought my first ds, I was so happy but unfortunately a guy stole it gfrom me :(

Great video!

It could have also been a bad hard drive