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Brian Johnson
เข้าร่วมเมื่อ 14 เม.ย. 2020
Austin Community College videos primarily for my Art Dept. students
Making Four Color Process Stencils as Bitmap images for Screen Printing
How to create four color separation plates as Bitmap stencils for screen printing. I cover how to make the stencils and then simulated what those stencils would look like when printed in CMYK transparent inks.
มุมมอง: 147
วีดีโอ
Making Four Color Process Stencils with Halftones for Screen Printing
มุมมอง 796 หลายเดือนก่อน
How to create CMYK Halftone stencils for screen printing using Photoshop. In the video I show how to create the stencils with all the settings and explanations. I also simulate what those stencils would look like when printing with transparent CMYK process inks.
Making Multiple Stencils with Index Color Mode for Screen Printing
มุมมอง 1046 หลายเดือนก่อน
How to create multiple stencils for a image using Index Color Mode to create spot color separations. I would recommend this method for creating 3 - 6 stencils to develop an image. The stencils will be bitmap images that need to be 100ppi for a 195lpi screen mesh
Making a Halftone Image for Screen Printing
มุมมอง 1196 หลายเดือนก่อน
How to convert a pixel based full color image into a halftone shape for screen printing stencil
Making a Bitmap Image for Screen Printing
มุมมอง 4016 หลายเดือนก่อน
How to alter a pixel based photo image into a black and white stencil for screen printing
Checking Image Size and Resizing in Photoshop
มุมมอง 996 หลายเดือนก่อน
How to use Photoshop to check the physical image size of your file and resize that image. Parts of this video pertain to scaling images and having the correct resolution for making screen print stencils.
Cutting wood and using relief tools
มุมมอง 922 ปีที่แล้ว
A very quick guide to woodcutting tools & materials.
Staining wood
มุมมอง 372 ปีที่แล้ว
How to stain your relief matrix for increased contrast and line visibility.
Sharpening Relief and Woodcut Tools
มุมมอง 2.5K2 ปีที่แล้ว
How to keep your relief cutting tools sharp!
Making a photo based image graphic for printing
มุมมอง 1923 ปีที่แล้ว
Altering any photo based image in Photoshop to make a printing plate with graphic marks. Useful for screen printing plates and relief plates engraved with a laser.
Prepping a file for Laser Etching for relief part 1
มุมมอง 1193 ปีที่แล้ว
Taking a drawing and prepping it for laser etching a relief plate in the Mil at Texas State University
Prepping your file for laser etching a relief block part 2
มุมมอง 1743 ปีที่แล้ว
The last step in setting up your file for the laser cutter in the Mil lab @ Texas State University
Removing a stuck blade on the Speedball carving tool
มุมมอง 2.6K3 ปีที่แล้ว
How to remove a stuck Speedball cutter blade.
Removing marker or stain on Linoleum
มุมมอง 4.1K3 ปีที่แล้ว
Demonstration on removing acrylic ink stains, marker or other alcohol based marks on the surface of linoleum for relief printmaking. Texas State Printmaking lab
Staining the Linoleum block for carving
มุมมอง 1.7K3 ปีที่แล้ว
How to add a stain to the surface of the linoleum in order to make the carved marks more visible. Texas State Printmaking lab
Screen Print Registration method Part 2
มุมมอง 1.6K3 ปีที่แล้ว
Screen Print Registration method Part 2
Screen Print Registration method Part 1
มุมมอง 2.5K3 ปีที่แล้ว
Screen Print Registration method Part 1
Old Exposure Unit - Exposing the Screen
มุมมอง 1774 ปีที่แล้ว
Old Exposure Unit - Exposing the Screen
Cleaning Ink from the Screen by Proofing
มุมมอง 6094 ปีที่แล้ว
Cleaning Ink from the Screen by Proofing
Replacing parts of an image using a Mask & Content Aware
มุมมอง 1394 ปีที่แล้ว
Replacing parts of an image using a Mask & Content Aware
07 keeping large carved areas from printing ink
มุมมอง 314 ปีที่แล้ว
07 keeping large carved areas from printing ink
thank you very helpful !!
thanks
Thank you so much!
Is it possible to get ink bleed if the ink is too thin? Let me know. Thank you for the explanation on this video very helpful!
Yes. If the ink is too runny it will bleed more easily. A stencil with small details that keep filling in (bleeding) or an ink that is not the right consistency (too loose) may mean that I skip the flood stroke and just use a print stroke to solve the issue when I am in the middle of printing. It is rare but I have had to use this method before. I ave even ad to wipe the screen underneath after every pull if the run is short and I can't alter the ink. Adding a bit of extender base to Speedball ink can thicken the ink without making it too transparent.
Thank you!
Thank you, the video was very useful 😘
Incredibly helpful thank you so much!!
Just tried printing for the first time and I put too much ink 😂
Nice! Haven't applied what you said just yet, but you addressed my issues. Thanks for the vid :)
Will leaving the marker on the block mess with printing? I want to know if I should even bother cleaning it off
It may depend on your ink and color you are printing. If it is black ink, then you can leave it. If it is a light color it may transfer with your ink or even change the color. The ink we use is Cranfield water soluble (it is actually a hybrid that cleans with soap and water and paint thinner). I know when people use a Sharpie with our ink, it will actually transfer the marker onto the paper. The solution is to clean the block with glass cleaner and re-ink it. If it still transfers, do it again and it will be weaker. You may need to ink , print and clean it a few times before it stops transferring the marker onto the paper; eventually it will stop. The only way to really know if to try it yourself. If it's a light color ink I am printing, I might be inclined to clean it off first.
@@BrianJohnson-gl7ph thank you for the help sir
Appreciate the video. Especially the bit on the power grip chisels. Thanks!
That is not sealed linoleum. On expensive linoleum it makes the top coat gummy or sticky. And the cleaned area is now not shiny like the rest of the floor. Now how would I repair the floor's top coat?
This is a demo for battleship linoleum used for carving and making art prints not flooring; this is not the video you are looking for ...
@@BrianJohnson-gl7ph thank you for the reply and letting me know.
Nice tip, I’ve never seen someone demonstrate that before… I’ll use it in the future.
Thank you so much, Mr. Johnson! Helped me get out of a pickle.
Great video. Thank you!
great video thank you so much!
cannot hear you aha🤣
I needed this. It's so frustrating to buy all the things, have all the hope, and see it fail. LOL So, now I'll be spending the time searching how to avoid mistakes. Thank you for showing this! Great info!
Glad it helped you. As my beginning students start screen printing again for the first time, I am reminded of how difficult it can be for them. Simple things like the angle of the print and flood stroke, the amount of pressure applied when printing and the viscosity of the ink among others can make a big difference in your results. Only experience printing lots of stencils can teach you what should feel right. I tell my kids I will make it look very easy but it won't be for them.
Wouldn't this be due to the off contact being too close?
hi what kind of ink you using?
water based ink by Speedball but it also works with TW Graphics ink or any water based ink.
Thank you for this video! I noticed it’s water based ink- if I’m using plastisol would it be a good idea to wipe the backside of the screen with a plastisol remover solution instead of water?
I have little experience with plastisol inks using it only a few times in the past. My inclination would be to use the same technique first by dry wiping the stencil. Wiping with the remover may wet or lubricate the stencil and perhaps cause another bleed by pulling more ink under the screen in the next pull. When we dry wipe it with water-based ink, we are removing ink from the underside that would tend to pull more ink under the stencil as well as remove the ink that could make a stain on the paper where the bleed was. Many years ago I learned on oil based ink and had to do things a bit differently when I transitioned to water-based. Rarely will I need to wipe with a damp sponge and generally for a problem with the ink (dry bits in the ink that get stuck in the fabric mesh primarily). After a damp wipe, I will do a dry wipe afterward to remove the moisture in the mesh that will make a mark during the next pull. In your case, If you would need to use the remover to wipe the screen, then I would follow with a dry wipe too. Having said all this, I could be wrong as plastisol may act differently. Experiment and see what happens.
Thank you so much for posting this! I looked everywhere for an answer to this issue and I couldn’t find one. This video seriously helped me out!
thanks so much for this
Are you using a water-based ink or plastisol?
This is water-based ink. I would imagine this same method works for plastisol, solvent based ink though. I first learned on oil based ink where bleed could be solved with a newsprint wipe before reapplying a flood stroke.
Thankyou
Thank you! This was very helpful. Fixed it under 30secs. Saved me a lot of energy and time.
waw,,,www
Weeeeellllll done..i found what i looking for years 👏👏👏👏👏👏👏
Thank you very much... I have always washed the screens whenever there is a bleed.. I just thought it will smudge if I dont wash it thoroughly. I appreciate this. I have also ran into screen bleeding when I sometimes use regular paint for making signs .. thin paint did that a few times or when the off contact is too distant.
good content.
Thank you so much. Like others here, I have searched everywhere for an answer to this. My first effort was perfect (beginners luck) and then failure after failure. I didn't know what I was doing wrong and had no idea how to fix it, or what to do while it was happening. Thanks for showing that clean-up step, as well. It will save me from tearing everything down and starting over. Keep making videos, please. 😃
PS - I have my own channel (bookmaking and box making) and I've always been curious about why people leave me comments. I never leave comments. But now I have, and I finally get it - when someone helps you with something you've been struggling with again and again, it requires thanks! 😘
@@KristiWarrenHandmadeBooks Thanks so much for your kind words and I'm glad this helped you too. I also never leave comments but do SO appreciate all the people that generously put up videos and pdfs that help people. Making and posting videos was always a thought but it was WAY down on my to-do list; I probably never would have done so without the need to do so for my students during pandemic teaching. I'm always surprised by how many other people outside of my classes that I am helping.
so why does he have a mask on he is the only one there
I recorded this with half of my class in the room watching the demo while one of them filmed it for me. Not that it's really of any consequence or importance to the content of the video. You only see what the camera sees, which is never the whole story...
Well, if you had actually paid attention as you watched you'd notice that someone is recording him (and they respond to him) and then someone else walks by, so... no, he is not the only one there. Maybe you're watching the wrong kind of video if this was your take-away. 😬😃
Thanks soooo much. Exactly what I needed
yes thank you!! straight to the point and clear instructions.
You can also use a higher screen mesh.
This is true and it will help reduce or stop bleeds but it also means there are other issues to consider. The higher mesh count will reduce the amount of ink going down on the substrate, which means a thiner layer of ink and a potentially lighter color overall. This change in your ink color will be more noticeable with more transparent colors. The bigger issue is that cleaning out the ink and more importantly, cleaning out the stencil can be more difficult. You have to be very thorough about using emulsion remover and not let the emulsion set in the screen for a long time. I clean it out right after I am done printing with a higher mesh (our mesh is typically 195 lpi.) Even jumping up to 255 lpi you will see a difference. It does mean greater possible detail (smaller size printable mark) - water based Ink can also dry in those smaller areas more quickly, blocking out those marks so they no longer print (if you don't notice it or correct it). All in all, for most students, going up in mesh counts is more problems than it is worth.
thank you so much,these days i start my first work and i had these problem all the time.Thank you so much
That's very helpful mate! Your videos are great! Thank you for sharing your techniques! Cheers!
Happy you could benefit from my pandemic videos for my students; the videos have been one of those things I always meant to do and never got around to it. It's pretty gratifying that others are benefitting from these too. I appreciate all the positive comments.
Thanks, I needed to know what I did wrong
tysm i cut my hand 5 times trying to get it out
Oh gosh, thank you!!😅
Like Stephanie said... this is exactly what I was looking for. Great video.
Glad it was helpful!
You'd be surprised how many videos and blogs I've searched just trying to find out the answer to these questions- why am I getting bleeds and can I fix my screen or do I have to wash the whole screen out and start over. Thank you!!! Great video
Glad you found this and it helped you. This is perhaps the number one problem my students have when they are learning to screen print.
This was super helpful!! One of my blades was stuck and this video really helped me get it out! Thank you!
Glad you found my little video on this; it's been happening to my students more frequently so I thought having this uploaded would help. Nice that it's going beyond my original audience too.