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iMaCH
United States
เข้าร่วมเมื่อ 22 มิ.ย. 2011
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Why You SHOULD NOT Buy The Cammus C5... (Cheapest Direct Drive Wheel)
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0:00 (Why You SHOULD NOT Buy The Cammus C5... (Cheapest Direct Drive Wheel))
0:10 (The Positives)
2:44 (The Problem)
8:53 (The Problem)
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0:00 (Why You SHOULD NOT Buy The Cammus C5... (Cheapest Direct Drive Wheel))
0:10 (The Positives)
2:44 (The Problem)
8:53 (The Problem)
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Had mine over a year, customer service was great, c5 has had over 200 hours of use and not 1 problem
@@2DaddyGaming you are in the minority of users lol As for the customer service thing, if you didn't have any problems and you say that "they were great" I don't believe for a second you had dealt with their customer service lmao they have a VERY bad reputation
Eres un personaje ridículo.
You should probably keep your hands off the steering wheel when calibrating. I saw in the video that you always put your hands on the steering wheel early. best wishes
@@Mxburchei I'm not sure what you're talking about, I literally never put my hands on the wheel when it calibrates
I bought one of these today, I should receive it in a week or so... Australia shipping center so it should be covered under my countries laws for should protect me any hardware issues. As for the issue is it still doing it? is it just the one game or other games as well?
Ive been talking to the customer service via WhatsApp they seem very receptive. The number is on their website.
You can replace the wheel. See 3drap 😊
The first thing I thought about these baseless direct drive steering wheels was: are they reliable? Maybe we are seeing just the first case.
Is Cammus a Chinese company? That sounds very similar to the experiences I've had with my Ebike company. A couple of months ago the throttle started working sporadically. I found if I pulled the cables back tight and zip tied them, it would work. So I contacted them and asked for the price of a new throttle. They asked me to describe the problem. I did. They asked for a video. I sent it. About a week later they came back that their engineer had reviewed the video and determined the problem was with the throttle. Yeah, no shit. By that point I'd already given up and ordered one on Amazon (for 1/4 the price of their replacement as it turns out). Anyway, I'm glad I saw this. I'm getting ready to upgrade from my Thrustmaster T150, and this was one of the ones I was considering. Looks like it's gonna be Fanatek :).
yeah its a chinese company, their laws surrounding this stuff makes it suck to buy from them. cause its a great wheel just EXTREMELY inconsistent if you're looking for an entry DD wheel i highly recommend the moza r3 or r5 they're pretty cheap and a very reliable brand. if you do go fanatek i would highly recommend you do extensive research on the specific wheel cause i heard they're very much a product by product basis for the quality lol
@@iMaCH I looked at the Moza too, but the Fanatek CSL DD bundle really looks like the best option. It's the same price as the R3 for a base comparable to the R5 (5nm), It's more upgradable (brake can be upgraded to load cell, the base can be upgraded to 8nm, and they have a TON of different wheels). Also they're the closest to Thrustmaster/Logitek in just working with everything. The only thing that worries me about them is their current financial situation, but I guess no matter what you do you're taking a chance in some capacity (shrug). Anyway I hope you get that problem sorted out. I'm shocked they didn't just offer to replace it since it started happening after just 1 month :(
Hello, did you find the solution?
have had this for 5 months now and no issues at all. the only issue is the shifter, be careful with it and dont use this wheel at full power, there is no need. i think your wheel might be a defect or updating software might help
nah found out its a usb connection issue, i have a temporary fix that consists of smacking it in the right spot. what im eventually gonna do is tear it apart and resolder it. also full power if very necessary if you the most detail, the damping is what really matters
@@iMaCH Hey mate. Is the problem is fixed now? I have 2nd hand mint condition deal and I am thinking to grab it.
@@mystdeisanto9647 nah problem super isn't fixed, I'm gonna have to resolder the USB connector for it to be fixed
@@iMaCH I've read a user that had similar problem, he turn off the hand protection features in the software and the problem is solved. Have u tried it?
I have the C5 and mine is not being recognized and can't set it up. Wish I had read the instructions and the warnings. "The recommended game time is 1 Hour with a 5-minute break every 20 minutes, we recommend a maximum of 2 hours playtime.
On amazon it costs with the table clemps 220$ for me lol just ordered
have had this for 5 months now and no issues at all. the only issue is the shifter, be careful with it and dont use this wheel at full power, there is no need
I think I've read enough, but I haven't found an essential information; how high does the temperature of your c5, in the "assistance" screen, while you're playing and having problems? M.
it doesnt get very hot at all, ive pretty much concluded its an issue with the port on the the back of the wheel its self having some sort of seating issue on the PCB at this point i just have to actually take the thing apart and resolder and it should be fixed
Min since march until now, works fine just the paddle shifter broken 😁😁😁
Saw this On Off thing happening to a few simracers .. in one case was the USB no hadling the power .. using it straight from the mother boart or in a powered hub might help
nah i tried both of these things, im not having an on off thing. what it does is it decides "im gonna use all of my possible power to make the wheel spin at max speed in one direction until i decide to stop" and then after that the wheel works but has zones in it where it doesnt register steering and the wheel also feels like a rotary encoder. the only thing that fixes it for any extended period of time is slapping the front of it with my palm lol
I'm having problem with ramdom disconnect in my C5. I was using a powered USB hub, but now it only works in my motherboard isb connection. Tried different cables, but nothing seems to fix the problem. Sometimes the wheel stops working for a hole day, then it decides to work again. I'm using the wheel for 9 month.
@@VictorDykstra oh yeah these sorta things arent suppose to be used on hubs, can cause some major issues
Either turning low pass filter to 0 or another one that makes it feel weighted fixed that for me ❤
ive unfortnuately tried this, im pretty sure its some form of hardware failure on the unit its self, cause if i palm slap it nice and hard in the center of the wheel it works perfectly for like 3 hours then start freaking out again lol
@@iMaCH did you try restarting your computer for the month you've had it? Sometimes software doesn't settle into the regular norm of operation when installing and updating the wheels software resulting in the disconnection
@@louismartin303 yeee ive had it for 3 months total now, since this video came out 2 months ago. ive tried just about everything under the sun, but ive found a decent balance where i can get it to work via brute force, once that stops working imma take it apart and resolder the USB connector and see if my guess is correct, i really do appreciate the suggestions tho cause this was driving me insane for quite a while haha
@@iMaCH ok in my experience any number higher than 50 with the "CF filter" is fine, but anything below is a risk of disconnecting like your problem, I turned up my thermal protection and hopefullly will get back with more feedback.
@@iMaCHMight be worth pulling apart to see if there is a bad solder joint that expands/ disconnects as the unit heats up?
Either turning low pass filter to 0 or another one that makes it feel weighted fixed that for me
nobody should listen to a mf who got rainbow hair
Don’t buy this wheel save up a little more and buy the moza. It will save you a headache
What kind of headache? Can u explain? Im going to order today
@@tradingaddictttdid you?
cammus are useless the quality is garbage, they fake reviews and make you pay for replacement parts that you should be getting for free
Cammus is supposely offering 2 years of warranty in europe and 1 out europe with this wheel, i'm no owner of it but as theyre doing that and offering distribution alongside europe theyre forced to give you a real solution (repair, replacement or devolution) if something goes wrong in this 1 or 2 years of warranty (as long you didnt damaged it or they cant really prove it, and you keep the warranty card AND receipt). If they dont want to accomplish with that warranty you should really take legal actions, there is associations along the worldwide defending your rights as buyer for free, get in contact with them and sue this mfs for your good and all the cammus clients good. As client you should never be treated like that by any company, if they do you cant tolerate that
A moza kit seems like a better deal. They got an ecosystem of products, they look way better too.
@@DLiotine this and the moza R5 are about on par only difference is this one is 100$ less But sadly cammus just had bad QA
so the wheel doesn't have any problems the problem is the setting idk what it was rn but i will tel u if i know
@@AryaScot no no the wheel has a VERY big problem, a problem that gets worse the more I use it
u can fix it in the settings
nope you cannot, i have done EVERY bit of research you possibly can on this thing. not only am i the only person to report this problem. not a single person knows the cause or even seems to understand what is happening. i have changed and played with every setting on the wheel. you cannot fix it in the settings.
i could already see the problem. there is no wheelbase in your c5 software. so the rim and buttons work but not the wheelbase. lol. so maybe your firmware is broken or you got connection issues. in your cammus software you should see your pedals which you do, the steering wheel which you do as well, but also the wheelbase, which you dont see. if you sometimes see it and then not, this means you have connection issues with the usb cable. put it out of your wheelbase and back in, the port on the cammus c5 is not the strongest. thats what solved my issues.
no what you're seeing is the wheel base disappears after the problem occurs. ive tried several different USB cables in every USB port on my PC when this happens is when the wheel base disappears. so if its a usb issue its on the side of the hardware not the user
@@iMaCH yeah its a connection issue. I have had that too and some others as well. For each there was a different solution. Some say its related to energy supply, some say its the usb cable getting lose as the port isn't strong and some movements of the weel may already be enough to disconnect. I have just updated the firmware for both wheel and base and made sure the usb cable sits tight. After that haven't had any disconetions.
I forgot to mention, make sure there are no Logitech or fanatec or whatever drivers left on ur system.
You got a dud, it happens rarely. Mine has been solid for 8 months
except cammus is known to have terrible QA and treats their customers HORRIBLY. on top of that its EXTREMELY common for people cammus C5's to have major over heating issues. it may "just be a dud" but its a dud from a shit company that has alt accounts they make the harass people who talk poorly about the company or their products, basically refuse to do a return even within the two week period that they say they'll do a return in, and they dont have good QA so duds are CONSTANTLY getting sent out. theres no excuse for this on a $300+ product
@@iMaCHshut your fruity ass up
let me know if you found a fix i have the same issue
u have to ind the right setings to fix it
so the wheel doesn't have any problems its in the settings
@@AryaScot no the motor broke
Set the max lock in the software Fixed it for me
The first one I was sent exploded the support team tried gaslighting me saying it was a software error. I had to then prove it was a hardware issue abs they made getting a replacement incredibly difficult. They tried offering me a new motherboard that I'd have to install myself. I had to demand a replacement for 2 days before they gave in. I'll snitch too it was Cammus Kevin that guy is a joke. BTW the company takes multiple weeks off work foi vacations.
kevin is a pseudonym they use so kevin is like 9 dudes or something haha but yeah cammus is an absolute joke of a company
Cammus or moza r5 or csl dd ready2race
Good to share your experience. I've been testing for the past month on and off and it has caused me no problems, but seems QC is not great as I have seen other people talking about strange issues, but never seen this. If you have not yet tried it make sure you change your USB cables over and if you are using a USB hub or anything else inline? Really hope support sort this out, so keep us updated! I am releasing my R5 vs C5 review this weekend - already recorded so this was interesting to hear especially when you said it worked great for a month or two!
sadly their support is genuinely useless, i plan to do an update to this as i have a BUNCH of footage of the problem in action and a bunch of stuff about their support in general. for me the problem only appeared after i had it for a month and logged around 140 hours between all the games i was playing with it
oh that's very unfortunate. Let me know if it ever gets fixed does it do with with all games?
Hasnt happened in AC or BeamNG but it seems to only be an issue when Im driving stuff like F4 with really strong FFB , I'm sure it would happen in BeamNG if I had a longer play session since it's pretty strong generally
@@iMaCH oh, so you think it's an overheating issue? I didn't have a lot of confidence in the little add-on fan that comes with the kit. I'd be interested if you can replicate the issue in those games, and if it acts the same (I can't solve your problem, I'd just like to be able to inform people of potential issues)
@@fillman86 seems pretty likely, it's kind of egregious how fast it happens in stuff like F4 tho if it is, I haven't finished a single F4 race without it happening I'll have to try a longer beamNG session to see if it happens on beamNG
@@iMaCH it sounds hardware, but I want to know if it could also be bad software/firmware
@@fillman86 its certainly possible, it does lock up in a way that it does feel like it could be a stutter in the firmware/software because it will start feeling like a giant rotary encoder. when its done doing that it ends up VIOLENTLY spinning in one direction as if its catching up to match the value it thinks that it should be at. which could probably be caused by overheating if it just made the motor controller parse the data passed to it too slow. thats assuming its using some sort of micro controller considering it has a dash, weighs quite alot, and im sure its MUCH easier to have data being passed both ways with one.
Clean your room
Having a lot of things = dirty?
honestly that brand is ass!
I’ve got one of these and not had any issues. I’ve not used it for almost 2 months though. Build a rig this weekend, so will be on the lookout.
yeah the current culprit we're thinking is it might be an overheating problem, so just try to keep it as cool as possible and you should be fine. and if it does happen my solution so far when its happening is to turn it on and off a bunch or let it sit for like 10 mins. i hope you dont have the problem tho, cause its an incredible wheel aside from this one issue
as a secondary note if you're driving a vehicle with very strong FFB or something without power steering turning the strength down to around 7.5 - 9.5 (in iRacing) depending on how strong the car is lowers the chances of it happening alot
@@iMaCH does sound like a heat issue. what happens if you raise the heat threshold in the software?
Did you install the fan the correct way to blow cold air to the back of the wheel? Overheat issue maybe? Try blowing an external fan at it?
yes so the fan thing is the first thing i tried, the next one is gonna be pointing my portable AC directly at it while i do an some laps around the nordschleife in the FIA F4 since that seems to be the place that it happens fastest due to no power steering
@@iMaCH there's also an overheat protection setting that's in the software that you could essentially turn off. I'll go and try some F4 on Nords and see if I can get the same problem...
@@MySimRacer oh interesting I didn't know it could be disabled, seems kinda sketch tho could be really easy to break the motor
@@iMaCH next time it happens switch to the cammus software and you can see the temp of the base in operation, but TBH I would not expect this behaviour from overheating, normally bases that overheat just reduce output power, they dont just intermittently respond, this seems more like a broken cable / port or something...
I can smell that video. clean up your room and trim your fingernails you disgusting piece of shit
LMAO having a lot of things = dirty now apparently... And the nails are long because I play classical guitar. Get a life you waste of space, at least I'm doing something with my life unlike your worthless self
Nice hair
I will never pay $200 for shipping
are you maxing it out at all times or something? ive never needed more than 4nm
i max it out in the cammus software, and i make sure to not max out in iRacing or AC (its never happened in AC but thats because most of the cars have power steering) if you would be willing it would be interesting to see your settings to see if they would fix my issue
Have u tried other sims and at wich force in nm is it set in iracing. Maybe us just clipping like crazy idk. U can see clipping if the forcebar of ur steeringwheel gets red.
the only game ive had clipping issues in thus far was in BeamNG, its certainly possible. ive noticed it primarily happens on vehicles without power steering things like Truck rallycross, main line formula cars (F4, F3, F2, F1), etc. aswell as it does seem random when it happens, cause it doesnt only happen while turning or driving ill play around with lower values in iRacing to see if it still happens on the more intense vehicles. havent had it happen on Asetto Corsa yet, however all the cars i use there have power steering
try typing real words
Hi, Cammus user here. First of all, I am using Cammus 15NM DDWB with their GT1 wheel + LC100 pedal. Currently running on TH8A shifter (had an episode with fanatec clubsport shifter, but it's a disaster, it's sent back to factory, i'm going SHH shifter, but that's not the topic) So... I am pretty sure that the C5 was their launching product. I am probably wrong, but i'm not sure the 15NM WB was started at the same time. Anyways, both are quite new, and such is the whole brand. They are NEW. So. Now considering this, it doesn't seem very surprising to me that you are facing those issues. It's because they don't have the feedback from time, experience, etc... One good point that I can straight away mention is that eventhough some people criticize their after sale service, they do react and do their best to fix issues. For instance my 15NM DDWB was known for overheating. It still goes hot if you go 100% FFB for 30 mins straight and goes into safe mode with lowered FFB once reaching up to 85C threshold. But on their lastest shippings, they thought about adding a large thermal paste pad at the rear part of the motherboard PCB/back plate, which helps a bit. So first of all I think they don't deserve to be roasted. One has to remember they are CHEAP. It doesn't mean quality is bad because I sincerely think it's good quality for the price, much better than Fanatec actually (my opinion here) and a nice upgrade from a thrustmaster belt driven system (which I had in the past). The C5 probably suffers a condensed amount of features of heating, software issues, etc. I don't think going for this one is worth considering the T300RS was doing a very great job with low issues except overheating as well, but I'm maybe wrong. Some issues you have with pedals, I do have them as well. My throttle sometimes go off the top input and i'm stuck to 60% max input. I have to exit my race and recalibrate the max real quick. That's an insanely big issue. If you are playing solo or with friends, no problem, you can park, stop racing and go back to it. But for a competitive player I will definitely not recommend CAMMUS. I would say go with Moza or SIMUCUBE. Yes, I truly think after the many months i've been owning cammus stuff, that it's still too experimental and not durability-proof. My rig shakes a lot, the connecting wires are very fragile, and any wrong manipulation will have you the motor base cooked and basically good for repair or garbage. And when that's a 800$ DD base wheel, it hurts. However I must say it provides with good FFB and details, let alone you tweak the settings right. It is VERY STRONG. I am a gym dude, very muscular, and when set to 100% FFB it does treat you bad. you are sweaty like hell after only 10 minutes. 10 constant NM with 14-15 NM peaks is probably the max you can tank before going exhausted or starting to lose accuracy in your steering inputs. Trust me, you don't need more. Higher FFB wheel bases are only good for not taking 100% of the dynamic range. I haven't tried Simucube stuff but i really hope they can provide with that kind of feedback for longer than what cammus stuff can. Sorry for the big digression, but you should share your experience on dedicated discords, because I agree many people have little information and once they purchase that, they are stuck with very frustrating issues. Better they know if the usage they want out of the wheel can compensate for their needs. Again, talking about my experience, i'm fine with the wheel going uncalibrated or heating a lot. I'm exhausted after 15 minutes anyways, and I race alone. But for competitive, maybe spare more money for really robust stuff. Given the reviews I get on C5 I would rather say that it's better to stick with a T300RS because this one had more feedback and is known for working almost with no issues. Give cammus some more time. They released a new C12 and they are pushing the fixes on each update which are frequent. Sorry for the messy comment, it's a straight out unreviewed comment of myself, but i encourage anyone to really question himself about his budget, need regarding actual sim racing accuracy, consecutive playing time, etc... before purchasing. Oh yeah also, I'm sorry I only play Assetto Corsa, the FFB may be not the best eventhough it's already fantastic I think, probably that any cammus wheel would shine or at least be more accurate to what the wheel base / software can really provide with games such as ACC / iRacing Thank you for the video
i really appreciate this reply, alot of detail! i very much agree with a vast portion of this, the only thing i properly disagree with is their handling of customer support. i sent them an email with the issue described, and a link to the video so they could see the problem, and they basically just accused me of not setting it up correctly and sending me tutorials i have already watched lol as well as saying "you cant turn the wheel beyond its range" which i just wasnt doing haha i definitely intend to get a higher quality wheel, but this was the only seemingly worth while one within budget, especially since i really didnt like how belt driven and gear driven wheels felt. and all of the reviews of this wheel were very good, the issue ive had is the only one ive actually seen reported on which i find super interesting. i can only hope that they decide to make their customer support less terrible in the mean time i will likely be saving up for a simcube as for asetto corsa, i have noticed that its less likely to happen over on AC but that is primarily because it only happens (to me) on cars that dont have power steering, so everything i use AC for is very gentle to drive.
@@iMaCH and that's how to react to a problem with your wheel. Unfortunately your clickbait video title is screaming out to everyone to NOT to buy this wheel. Raging and ragging a product you bought with your money does NOT mean everyone else should not go for it. It's not your money. Keep in mind most if not all wheels are built in China anyway. This company should force other company's and their overly expensive wheels to have a good, hard rethink about ripping off the Joe Public so that's one good thing about this wheel. I have a different wheel to and I'm sorry you got stuck with a lemon I feel your frustration especially with Cammus support. We all get shafted once we've been around long enough and it's happened to me too but I don't go making videos to tell people to stop buying Toyotas. PS Always use direct motherboard usb connections for ALL sim wheel connections . . . just sayin'.
@@jed2055 are you stupid? Nothing about this is clickbait dumb fuck. I tell you why you shouldn't buy it. Do even 10 seconds of research and you'll find people have nothing but problems with the dog shit company that is cammus. This problem I'm having also turns out to be a common one. So tell me again how this is click bait dumb fuck
a lil update post video, the problem is even worse seeing as their support is ABSOLUTE GARBAGE lmao i handed them this video, they watched it, and all they got from the video was "you need tutorials" and "you set it up wrong" so yeah unless you have extra money incase it breaks DEFINITELY dont get this
let me know if you have found a fix, i have the same issue
I was having serious problem with my wheel! Jittering, disconnecting, shutting off. I was advised to go to the software and set maximum rotation at each end of the lock. I thought that was ridiculous but since doing that, there wheel has worked for 7 months no hiccups
@@JasonGosford what setting is that? Is that different from changing the rotation amount? I usually have it set at 900 or 1080 but I've changed it a ton so idk if that's it if we're thinking of the same setting. Glad your is working tho ^-^ it's an excellent wheel when it's not being problematic
does it have hands off protection in the settings? if so turn it off
it does have hands off protection, but i disabled that a while ago
Maybe software else you got a dud. Mine is fine
yeah likely got a dud, but is worth bringing to light since cammus doesnt seem to care that it was a dud after less than a month
Definitely got a lemon
Well that didn't take long. I really was wondering about the longevity of this given the incredibly low price point. A month seems a little ridiculous but I'm not convinced they'll last a year.
i think for most people it will likely last, definitely worth the price, but so far cammus has only blamed me for "incorrect setup" despite having watched a ton of tutorials and having been using it everyday for at absolute minimum 4 hours at maximum 9 hours a day
@@iMaCH that sounds like not worth the price lol.
@@valdimer11 i agree haha its an incredible product with too much potential loss
yeah i'd send them footage of this and they'd probably send you a new one
I did and so far the only reply I got was "you can't move it out of range" despite it being centered 😂
@@iMaCH that's the issue with cammus. They suck with support and don't care.
Well defects happen lol ive talked to a few cammus owners and none had this issue. So im sure its a dud and it hsppens even with other gear.
Yeah that's true, but a month is pretty egregious imo especially when their support replies to me with "the wheel can't go out of range" and some links to set up tutorials loool
The issue is they know about these issues and still sends out the wheels
Thanks. What are the odds you think you've got a lemon?
It's certainly possible, but it happening in a month makes me feel like its not too unlikely to happen to others
@@iMaCH yeah that's a decent point. After your video I watched a few others that raised quality assurance concerns too. Definitely glad I watched.
Love mine he definitely got a lemon
the ods are hes telling lies! straight up
Mine is working for the past seven months no issues. I had major problems at the start which was resolved in software. Also the notch on the pedals that holds the magnet were loose. I had to drill in and fill with glue. I can understand people going for moza. It caused me a lot of hassle but it’s working since then. Also the left paddle broke off. In the process of fixing that😂