วีดีโอ

@FAN3LL1 circa 1850 heavy body paint and varnish remover plus pressure washer. I just restored my 16' aluminum 1977 springbok rocket III runabout. Apply it thick with paint brush seal with plastic for a few hours to remove even more paint in one go then pressure wash off. Made project 1000x easier than sanding plus didn't leave sanding marks so I could have polished metal to a mirror surface if I wanted to.

Short answer....Scuffing and etching make aluminum more able for paint to adhere to. Scuffing is done usually with a wire brush or sandpaper, and etching is done with chemicals.

Everyone says this, but I'm worried about the 30L of paint chips that it will blow onto my grass for the birds to eat lol.

@@Fronk11 Update: The pressure washer does not work. I used many different paint strippers and no luck. I got so impatient with it. I had a buddy sand blast it for me. His rig took the paint right off. Took no time. Either way, paint stripping sucks.

@riverdog1643 oh buddy. I have been at it for like 6 hours with a couple little breaks. I applied paint stripper to the whole thing then scraped it down this morning and vaccuumed the paint up, then I applied another coat of stripper and scrubbed the whole thing with a wire brush. I am about to power wash the inside heavily, then I'll sand it all with a paint stripper disk and sandpaper to get it ready for paint and remove the last bit of paint left. The second coat and wire brush got rid of most of the paint, but there will be a lot of elbow grease with the power tools still

@@Fronk11 A sandblaster, makes really quick work of it. Good luck to you brother!!

Man I'm trying to figure out the SAME THING. I've used 3 different sanders, but I didn't think of this. If I remember I'll let you know in the next week or 2

Everyone says this, but I'm worried about the 30L of paint chips that it will blow onto my grass for the birds to eat lol.

You are lucky dude. I put solvable paint stripper gel on my boat. I had a go at it with a scraper after the advertised 20 mins, then 4 hours, then just a few minutes ago the next day. It took 1 or 2 layers off, but there is still a full layer of primer and some spots have paint on that primer. A few bare spots. I'm going to do another coat and follow the same process that this man in the video did. You got lucky

JASCO Premium Paint and Epoxy Remover.

Lots of ways to skin a cat. I started with putty knife and edged tools. These were just inefficient over a large area or around dozens of rivits, we're the wire brush picked up more material and got the gunk from around the rivits...a blade couldn't do that.

@@adventuretim4356 ahhh ya the rivets would be a pain with a putty knife

After. To clean up the residual paint and around each rivit. Also to lightly skuff the aluminum. Test after a few minutes. Keep it wet.

Thanks. I learned a lot from kayak fishing, helped in the layout. These noodles aren't super tough, I'll look at the pipe insulation idea when these need replacing.

Bouncing on the bay at 25 in this flat bottom little boat is plenty fast for me. I had a Mako Pro Skiff 17 with a 60 Merc. Very heavy skiff with split tunnel Hull, comfortable with top end of only 34 mph. I much prefer the smaller, light weight Jon for my style of fishing, it's like a big kayak in a lot of ways. Thanks for watching.

Sold the yak and rehabbed an old 14' jon into a flats boat. The yak is a stealthy fish killer but the jon gives me range and safety.

Aluminum surfaces need special preparation before painting. This differs from most surfaces in that aluminum must be etched. Etching is a technique that involves coating the metal with an acid, which causes a chemical reaction that in turn produces a slight engraving. This helps paint adhere to the aluminum surface.

Sorry, sold the yak and cant find a pic of the bottom.

Sure, i removed the head and spliced 8 awg marine wire into the control leads and the power leads, silicone shut the bottom of the head. It just so happens to fit nicely under the Pinnacle seat (on top of the base). Various zip ties to hold it in place. I didnt have to fabricate a base for it...and its very portable, just cut the zip ties.

@@adventuretim4356 okay, so you cut the wires at the shaft and spliced it together :)

@@jonathanwhite9051pretty much. Originally, i had the TM on the transom using a u jointed extension handle. I hated it. So i took the head off and put it under the seat and installed and piece of pvc as a push/pull stick steer. Some months later, i added an outboard. So i repurposed the stern drive TM into a bow mounted TM...utilizing Nucanoes bow mount, some angle iron and scrap wood. Remote lift still works with the pulleys.

If I hadnt add an outboard to the rear and moved the TM to the bow, Id have put in a foot pedal steer. Ive made several changes to the boat. Thanks for watching.

Thank you. Ive since moved the tm to the bow and put an outboard on the stern. I appreciate the comment.

Dont recall friend. I went to my local hardware store with a short piece of pvc (with the hole cut) and played with bits and pieces until i got what i needed. Good luck.

Nice and simple . The rig for raising / lowering the motor , didn't catch that whole configuration but need to do that !

Ronstan model RF25109, 20 BB Orbit Block 1.7mm (1/16). Rope size = 6mm (1/4). Im using 5mm paracord with no problems. Its new and not water tested, so I expect improvements. Thanks for watching.

@@adventuretim4356 , Really clever idea to raise the trolling motor. How is it now that you’ve had a chance to test it on the water?

@@Cimmeron it has held up really well. Since this video, ive installed a 2.0 HP gas motor on the stern and moved the TM to the bow.

@@adventuretim4356 Your setup is very clever. I’m going to do the same with my inflatable kaboat