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Abrazote :)

it is difficult to say anything without looking inside the mic but if your mic is cutting you out there is definitely something going on, it sounds like a cable is shorting but as said before would need to take a peek of its guts to say for sure. Now about the potentiometer it is probably just dirty as in if you apply some electrical contact cleaner it will probably work fine again, and if not then you will have to change the pot. let me know if this helped.

@ingenout5517, Yes I cleaned it 3 times, and worked fine for some time then eventually would cut out when I would play so I had my other friend look at it he sprayed it well with contact cleaner too. My friend said to measure the size of the CTS Pot which is one and one sixteenth but I can't find the CTS Pot I need for a 9917 Hohner Blues Blaster Mic anywhere online. When I get a closer look online it is CTS Pots for the Guitar and the only CTS Pots they have are 500K BOURNS POTENTIOMETER REPLACEMENT FOR BLUES BLASTER AND ROADHOUSE MICS for $19.00 and that is all this one guy found and said they worked well and so far has had no issues. He said the size of the CTS Pots is small but that is all they have and talked to the company that makes them into selling them. He does not know why they are so expensive. That is the price for 2 CTS Pots. My friend did not trust them and said you want Pots that are made in America. These Pots were made in England. My friend said once you measure the Pot size give it to me and I will talk to my Guitar guy. He has a guy that can possibly get the Pots we need so I will buy a bunch of them. A wire eventually did come off when I took the grill off. I was careful but the wires were rather old and I think after reading what you said that the wire was maybe loose or ready to come off. I am going to jam with some friends tonight so when I go to my friend's Shop to play I am bringing the Mic to have my friend look at it and tell him what the measurement is and give it to him. I may have messed up the XLR where the small screw is. That is behind the Hohner sticker. I was trying to get apart the XLR that was on the Mic so I could powder coat the Mic but I'm not sure how you get that off. The paint was coming off so I thought if I got it off I could powder coat it. I looked for schematics for the 9917 Hohner Blues Blaster and there are not any or any showing the Pot. When I told my friend I couldn't find any Pots he said I saw a whole bunch of CTS Pots on Amazon. I said but they are all for Guitar and some other Pots but not for what I need. I will keep you posted. Maybe you have or know where I can find schematics and Pots for the 9917 Hohner Blues Blaster Mic beside the 500K Bourns. Pots. Also, I have a 1490 Hohner Blues Blaster Mic that has the Crappy element. I don't want to lose any of the bottom end. I was hoping to find the original 9917 Hohner Blues Blaster element if I could find one so it sounds like the first Blues Blaster and not like the one with the one with the Crappy element. What do you recommend or think is the best replacement element for this Mic. Vintage Astatic MC-151 Crystal element is what I see them replacing it with. Have you seen this video Transformer Change: Shure 520 DX Green Bullet and Hohner Blues Blaster elements in harmonica mic. This is what Håkan Ehn has used in the 1490 Hohner Blues Blaster. th-cam.com/video/Cl5DzSH4s-A/w-d-xo.html This guy did this to his 1490 Hohner Blues Blaster and it sounds good but I don't want to lose any bottom end. My friend said if I put the Shure element in it I would lose the bottom end. Hohner Blues Blaster/Astatic JT-30 Bullet Harp mic with MC 101 Crystal Element th-cam.com/video/JbmrHAohO7o/w-d-xo.html any help would be great Thanks for your help, Dana!

​@@harmonica212you can get a stand-alone volume control unit, I got one for $30 on e*B*a*y and Greg Heumann sells them too. I have the MC 101 element and they tend to be weaker and more delicate than the old controlled reluctance and controlled magnetic elements.

​@keefmeister77, What I am gonna end up doing is Greg said I can take my Hohner Blues Blaster and put the Bulletini element into my Mic and he would have to make a custom knob. This is what he said... YES! I can mod that. Only problem is that the volume control in your mic is all wrong for a dynamic element like The Heumann Element OR a Shure CM or CR so that has to be swapped out too - adds $49 to the tag, which is as follows: $159 The Heumann Element 15 Gasket to adapt it to BluesBlaster 49 New volume control --- $223 plus return shipping and possibly sales tax - depends on where you live. I have a pot that can mount where the existing one is. So it will look identical. NORMALLY people hate the existing XLR connector TOO, in which case I install a screw-on connector in the rear hole (where the VC is now) and a VC with a custom knob where the XLR connector was. Here’s how that looks on a BluesBlaster) And here’s how I do the VC if moved to the front hole. Those two jobs are $65 for the connector move (have to fabricate a custom bushing) and $49 for the VC (takes some careful machining and a custom knob.) I can do anything you want. But XLR doesn’t keep you from stepping on the cable, it only keeps the cable from popping out - which only happens if you’re using a guitar cord. If you have a proper screw-on to 1/4” cable, it won’t pop out either - and the rigid part is a lot shorter than an XLR setup. I prefer the cable in the rear so it doesn’t interfere with my grip….. @keefmeister77 I love how that Mic sounds. It is the best Mic I have ever heard. My friend has an idea to combine the Bulletini with a Mic he has if it can be done. If this works he will have the best sound you have ever heard. I'm a visual person so it is hard to describe what it will look like. What I want to do to it will blow my Hohner Blues Blaster out of the water. I'm blown away by how good that Mic sounds.

true that! but the budget was tight so this was the best option for the client. Thanks

Hi Steve, I use 2.6mm X 160mm for most of my work and I get them here in Germany from elkubema.de

Thanks for watching until the end!

Hi E.F, do you mean you design the pedalboard frame on CAD to fit customer demands?

Hola, se llaman Sujeta Cables Adesivos. Saludos

I use Aluminum Profiles which I buy per meter and then cut to length.

This are my clients pedals. but what do you mean? the reverb pedal is one of the best in the market today.

@@ingenout I think I was joking, since thats the most expensive reverb pedal aas well as being the best. Wish I had one!

@@John-e4p1x I thought so :) I wouldn't mind having one either, I'm more into analog effects but this one mmm yeah.

Thank you for watching!

Hi Rob, Since then I Grounded the Board. Thanks!

I have not seen his Channel, I will check it out.

@@ingenout do so! you will not regret it.

@@useme2305 Fantastic Channel, right up my alley. Thanks for the tip.

Hi Joe, better late than never but Thanks a lot appreciate the kind words.

Wow, Thanks glad you like it, new projects are coming soon

They are Two separate 9V power supplies. One is for the Line 6 and the other is for the isolated multi power supply.

Hi, Thanks for the kind words!, more projects are coming soon.

The interface allows to have the modulation effects on the amp effects loop or in series with the other effects if there is no effects loop on your amp.

Yeah, the client is very happy as well and I agree with the pedal selection very fun board. Thanks for watching!

Hi, Glad you liked it!!!

Apenas vi tu primer video ya vi que eres azteca, qué orgullo, cawn. Me haré fan. Gracias!!!

its a "Count To 5" from Montreal Assembly, very cool pedal.

The short answer is in order to protect the cabling, but you may ask your self how come right, well if you see how Pedaltrain boards are constructed they consist of a frame made out of a tube weld assembly and on top of that they weld those wide aluminum sheets where you Velcro the pedals. So on top of the board you have one plane and under the board you have two planes, one is on top of the aluminum sheets and the other one is on top of the aluminum tubes and this generates a height difference which creates a weak point if the cables lines where to be mounted on top of the tubes nearer to the floor. Meaning that in the case of dropping your board where there might be an object like a mic stand or a DI or something like that the probability of damaging a cable would be much higher cause on the worst of cases the entire weight of the board would be concentrated on that cable line. That is why I run all cables (DC & Patch) on top (plus not going through the gaps), then mount the raisers on which the pedals will live. This equates for a much lower probability of a cable being damaged as the pedals them self's are protecting the cable lines. Thanks again for the question and if something was not clear enough let me know!

Thanks a lot, yeah that was one of the reasons but also to improve accessibility and to protect the cabling from any sort of damage that could occur underneath the board as it is now protected from the board itself.

Thanks Evan. Great question!, the short answer is in order to protect the cabling, but you may ask your self how come right, well if you see how Pedaltrain boards are constructed they consist of a frame made out of a tube weld assembly and on top of that they weld those wide aluminum sheets where you Velcro the pedals. So on top of the board you have one plane and under the board you have two planes, one is on top of the aluminum sheets and the other one is on top of the aluminum tubes and this generates a height difference which creates a weak point if the cables lines where to be mounted on top of the tubes nearer to the floor. Meaning that in the case of dropping your board where there might be an object like a mic stand or a DI or something like that the probability of damaging a cable would be much higher cause on the worst of cases the entire weight of the board would be concentrated on that cable line. That is why I run all cables (DC & Patch) on top (plus not going through the gaps), then mount the raisers on which the pedals will live. This equates for a much lower probability of a cable being damaged as the pedals them self's are protecting the cable lines. Thanks again for the question and if something was not clear enough let me know!

@@ingenout thanks so much. Big fan of your work.

@@evanmiller2579 Glad I could help, and thanks a lot much appreciated!

No problem Troy. Thanks for checking out the video!

Vielen Dank :-)

Kein ding Perro :)

Hey Thanks so much Tom, glad you liked the video.

Muchas Gracias!

Thanks a lot!

My pleasure carnalito!

Thanks!

Hi, Glad I could help. If you ever need some advice or have an idea that you would like to see on my channel please let me know.

Thank You, much appreciated!!!

Gracias y abrazos desde por aca.

Gracias Chef :-)

Cheers mate!

Thanks!

it's a cut every word lmaoooo

Hi, I appreciate your feedback and will definitely take it into account for feature vids as many others have complained about the Jumpcuts!!!!

won't happen again, lesson learned!

@@ingenout Might I suggest doing a few different takes and only using the take that you are happiest with. When you do have to transition, try a dissolve.

Muchisimas Gracias!

Appreciate it Sergio, your comment motivates me!!!, I buy them here in Germany and they come pretty much standard like that everywhere. So you place the pedals where you want them to be, then you solder one end of the long cable and plug it to one pedal then you lay the cable on its path and when you make the decision that that's how you want your cable to be then you cut to length solder the other end of the cable and Listo! Thanks again and all the best to your beautiful family my man.

@@ingenout thanks so much! i figured that that was the work flow and built a board of my own from the pile of pedals I've been collecting for years now! thanks in turn for the inspiration!