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I thought it was odd he didn’t tell about a PI. I just bought a used 2018 MW DR - being 10 years old, not knowing how hard it was driven I was gonna re do the power tubes…. Appears Mesa just uses regular 12ax7 in all the preamp tubes, I figured there would be some special balanced tube somewhere for the PI 🤷🏻‍♂️

@@BB-xn1rw Right, so in your situation, and with most amps, yes the PI tube is just a 12ax7, maybe a 12at7 sometimes, but anyway, your DR has a PI position, and yes you want it to be balanced, but having the triodes off by like 1 or 2 is fine, but you'd only see that on a tube tester. The other thing is, triodes can wear out at different rates, and over time a balanced tube, can become unbalanced, so it always pays to check your tubes every so often, not to mention just to check for shorts, and that kind of stuff, BC a tube with a short for example, can still work, but could cause issues, so sooner you catch stuff like that the better. You can buy awesome older tube testers for literally 50-300 these days. I check every tube in all my amps every 3-6 months just to keep an eye on things. Oh, I was gunna say too, even if I order a tube from someone as a balanced tube, I still check it, BC not only are new prod tubes all over the place. Just for example, I have about 30 NOS(new and used) 12ax7's, and almost all of them are just perfectly balanced, or if not usually only a little bit out, but I have about 50 newer prod 12ax7's, and no lie, about 6-8 out of the 50 are balanced, and not only that, the others usually arent even close, they are usually like 87/65, 92/79 etc, so in other words, unless you order a new prod tube as specifically balanced, theres a good chance it wont even be close. That said also, you wouldn't really hurt anything if your PI tube was a bit unbalanced, but it would just cause more noise, and a shittier/shriller, possibly phasey sound if it was really bad, but I still wouldnt just throw any old tube in there, or trust it if you dont know. If you have any questions let me know! Also, FYI, your PI tube on the DuaL Rec is V5, so farthest away from the input jack!

So I have plenty of questions… pretty sure this thing can use a re tube for whatever reason, one of the previous owners wrote with marker on the 6L6 440’s 1,2,3,4 looking from the rear, left to right. No idea why… but they are stock tubes, check the first two preamps they are Mesa 12ax7’s…. Appears everything is original tubes…. So at min 10 years later, prob can do the power tubes… I was just going to use all Mesa but of course they are all out of stock lol… Mesa is recommending 445’s now for the DR’s, but I’ve noticed all the box stores have a 448 in stock now…. I was looking at euro tubes, they have a special tube setup that uses a different rectifer tube (I use the vintage voice, recto recto tubes and spongy with a lot of gain - tones like early foo fighters, aic etc o go for)…. Sorry I am all over the place. My old rev g Dr had stock Mesa tubes in it. The preamp were those spax7’s from Mesa…. Do I use the modern voice with crushing gain? Sure sometimes, but I play les Paul’s (498t and 57+ on their bridges)…. I worry about voltage and everything since Mesa doesn’t have a bias and run their tubes cold…. Anyway euro tubes highly reccomends this gz tune for the rectifer over the 5u4g or whatever Mesa uses…. Still get a little sagg, but not as much… but my main issue with this amp vs my old rev g - the high mids and highs are very brittle… is this a tube issue? (Maybe it needs retuned all around) or is this the type of tube? I’ve read the Chinese tubes Mesa uses give a not so ear pleasing sound in the high mids and high end…. It’s been 20 years since I’ve played with this stuff… Mesa doesn’t seem to fall for a balanced PI ???

@@BB-xn1rw So, here, I’ll give you some quick advice. Some of it may be in random order. First, don’t worry much about the numbering on the power tubes. Doesn’t mean anything, and if it did, that was just for his own reason. The way it actually works on a lot of amps, and in the DR/TR though, is power tubes work in pairs, so one pair is the middle two, and then pair two is the outer pair. There’s other stuff about that, but nothing you really need to worry about now. The only thing I’d suggest, especially on an amp like this that’s self biased, is every 6 months or so, you can even just move the inside pair to the outside, and the outside pair to the inside. That will just keep wear more even on the tubes, especially if one or two of them is getting hit a bit harder just from how it’s biased internally etc, but anyway don’t worry to much about it. Moving on. I was gunna say, yeah, Eurotubes is honestly awesome, and I love them. They are so nice, and they test their tubes very strictly, and only accept the best, so compared to a lot of places these days, you can feel good about the fact you won’t get send a bunk tube. Of course bad tubes can always slip through anywhere, but chances with them are way less, and they have a good warranty. Next piece of advice, whenever you order new power tubes, always make sure that before the warranty is up, that you put at least 10-15 hours of play time on your new power tubes. Reason, because sometimes it takes a shotty tube a good while to fail, but it just keeps you covered, BC if you put 10-15 hours on it, and they are still working great, chances are you made it into the clear in the sense of having any (bunk) tubes. Next, if you are ever using the tube rectifier on your Dual Rec, or have an amp that’s just tube rectified, don’t use your standby switch. Literally, just keep it off, and turn your amp on and off like normal. Mainly, the important part is turning on, BC if you turn it on in standby, let it warm up, and then take off standby, your Rec tubes, and power tubes will get hit with a huge in rush of current, and while they can usually handle it, for one it just takes life off them, and two, sometimes worse things can happen, though more rare, so just turn it on normally, and if before you turn it off, if you put it in standby, thats fine, but I just turn it off normally. Next, this is about your asking about the special tube setups from EuroTubes. Either way though, just order from them, but here’s my opinion on that. So, in a stock DR, they use 5U4GB Rec Tubes, but depending if you are going to get different power tubes or not from EuroTubes , there’s certain tubes, or tube combinations that if you get, Eurotubes will either tell you to keep using 5U4GB’s, or they will give you GZ34’s, but it’s for a reason, and has to do with how the DR is internally biased, so bottom line is you can’t just use whatever REC tube you want, it depends on the power tubes, and also other settings on the DR. I’ll give you an example. I’m running two types of power tubes in my 2016 NMW Dual Rec right now, and when I ordered them, EuroTubes told me that in order to use these power tubes, I can strictly only run my Dual Rec on the EL34 setting, on Spongy, and Tube rectifier, and I have to use GZ34’s. So in other words, I can’t use the SS Rec, or the Bold mode, and it’s because of how the certain tubes I have interact with the amp. So hopefully that makes sense. To make it a bit more clear also, 100% if you run either 6L6’s , or EL34’s then you can certainly obv still use bold/spongy, and Tube/SS Rec as you wish. The thing is, and this is what you’d need to ask them, so either way, just email them before any order you do, or with any questions, but because Eurotubes has options for the DR to use KT77’s, KT88’s, 6CA7’s, even 6V6’s, and even certain combinations of power tubes, and the way they can do it is for two main reasons, because they choose certain tubes that work with the bias, and because certain tubes also, can only be used with certain settings on the amp, and certain rectifiers even. So like I said about my amp, I actually have to use GZ34’s, and can only run on the Tube Rec, Vintage, and Spongy together. If I wanted to use say modern mode, or bold, or SS Rec or any other combination, then I couldn’t safely use the tubes I’m using, know what I mean? The lucky thing, they kinda handle all of that, but make sure you take it seriously. Like another thing, say I wanted to run all KT77’s, I would never just put in some random quad of them, I would only trust Eurotubes, because they have it down to a science, and only deal in JJ’s, so they’ve had time to test all these different tube types, and have figured out not only like I said, what the requirements are to run those tubes, but even the tubes themselves, only tubes that test in a certain range are sold to you when using them in amps that aren’t normally meant to run these tube types. So yeah, funny enough, you saying you like tube rec, and spongy, on vintage mode, BC that’s exactly what I’m running, and prefer. I’ll tell you what I’m running, I think you’d love it. Do you have Instagram or FB or anything? I’m just trying to keep it a bit of a secret, BC it’s that awesome hah.

@ thanks for the long reply! Yep I have fb. Not sure how to share that privately with you. How do you like the gz for recto? Didn’t know about the standby thing - even in the 90’s, I’ll stop using that switch. Yep I’m a spongy recto tube on vintage guy. My rev g was face melting like this back in the day. Push the gain to about 2pm on the orange channel… I’m not getting that same vibe with the mw recto. Like I said too, the eq and I are not getting along yet. This why I’m wondering if these thing may need retuned, it’s 10 years old. It’s either too bright or blanket cover sounding, I can’t get that right mix. I pulled the first two pres real quick, they are stock Mesa 12ax7. I assume the amp is all factory stock still, oddly the 6l6 are 440 I thought 445 was what they used now.

Real this was in Cuba the other day on CNN

lmao nice

I know you're on contention a lot. I'll be curious on your opinion of SR if you do more on it. (I need to get over to contention myself, only been on a few times.)

@kamicosmos yeah, I'll check it out again at some point. Just not sure how everything works yet with tasks and joining as a group etc.

Thanks for watching AND commenting. Did you group like it, or are you waiting for the 'full' version? I haven't had time yet to sit down and give it a proper read through yet.

How long did it take to go through it? I'm thinking of doing it as a one or two shot around Halloween for my group.

It did pretty great for it's first video!

Oh, I don't remember! Probably either from the lovebites shop directly, or cdjapan. Those are my first stops when getting stuff from Japan (Direct from the Band, then CDJapan). It was probably a proxy order via CDJ, I recall the Lovebites shop having some issues with PreOrders on overseas credit cards.

Mine has ticked over about 32 hours. Still loving it! Not a single problem yet. This fall I will probably treat it to a trip back to the dealer for them to look it over, give it a tune up, adjust and sharpen the blades etc.

Thank you.

Old video. After lots of game and system tweaks, Multithread, DLAA, DLSS, and new recording software, it looks and runs much smoother. (And specs are in the description. Still running the same rig.)

I have not. I had gotten my WinWing gear around then, and hadn't figured out the voodoo ritual to get all that working in IL2, so I've been in DCS pretty much 100% the last year+. BUT, I did eventually get the winwing gear working with IL2, and have been playing a campaign with the ME410 that I may or may not start uploading here. I'll get the Spitfire mapped out, and give Mission 5 a try. I was actually getting a bit bored of the campaign cause it seemed like it was flying the same long route down south, engage a flight or two of 109G14/K4s and/or Doras over and over. So Jets would be a change of pace! But yeah, I'll let you know if I figure out how to catch them!

Found this from the author of the campaign on the official forums: "All Me 262s that you meet in this campaign are from I. and II./KG 51, they weren't fighters and didn't have the appropriate training. Therefore, they take advantage of their aircraft and will always try to simply get away from any attacking fighters. Except for a completely hopeless situation that you will still encounter) The 5th mission is structured so that you will not be able to intercept Me 262s, as happened in reality that day."

I have the WinWing F16EX (and my throttle is also the F16 Throttle Grip, both on their respective Orion 2 bases).

Here's the tab I used: tabs.ultimate-guitar.com/tab/lovebites-japan/scream-for-me-guitar-pro-2740008

It is an excellent skin! I had actually given you credit during the video, when I went external view and panned around the plane, I mentioned that it was your skin based off the 400. (And I mentioned the dog and cat pilot mod) When editing...well, realized I had myself muted! Oops! I'll update the description with a link to it.

Thanks! It's a great helicopter! I've been flying it a fair bit more often lately.

Thanks!

Wow, a blast from the past watching this video again! Seems like it was a lot longer than just a year ago. Yes, the gauges and other menues are perfectly readable in the Quest 2. That was a stickler I had for VR, a friend had one of the Dev Kit Rifts, and you couldn't read menues, gauges, subtitles, etc.I watched a lot of reviews and searched out ones that were using it in IL2, DCS, and Elite to make sure it looked usable for me. So for the most part I am very happy with the Quest2. And thanks for checking out my video! They evolved a fair bit, I learned how to record full screen in VR, and my editing improved over time. I've been playing DCS almost exclusively this year, and while I have it looking pretty great in 2D, my system is showing it's age and can't handle that game in VR at all. I'm hoping early next year I can build a new desktop PC with a monster graphics card that will look amazing in VR!

I know. I'm a bridge pup/humbucker only kind of guy. My other guitars are dual humbucker setups, and to be honest, if they had single HB options, that's what I would have.