วีดีโอ

I am a little confused when you say the raw file has no sharpening and then the Denoise is applied - looking at the panel on the RHS you appear to have default settings applied and that is Sharpening at 40. I think you will get better results if the Sharpening is either reduced or set to 0. The Owl image I appreciate you used because there was considerable noise and it was a big crop so really I think the image - whatever software used is on a hiding to nothing. I think the amount of Sharpening and Amount of Denoise has to be balanced for every image - it is of course much less convenient than DxO4 whic is automatic. I don't want to flog the point to death but I suspect Adobe Denoise used on an image (natural history image that is) that is not so highly cropped would leave you a little less dissapointed. I hope you appreciate this is purely a personal viewpoint and not intended to be antagonistic.

Did Adobe stop updating photoshop on the iPad?

Love the magic of superfocus. But lets be honest. There's no swiss -army knife of denoumise software. You need at least 3 different programs to cover most issues and scenarios, unfortunately.

Interesting, I enjoyed the video, but I am not too sure you gave ACR Denoise a fair crack of the whip, perhaps consider turning off Sharpening then adding Denoise and seeing if you require more or less than 50 and then apply exposure etc followed by sharpening. Also you can minimise the noise reduction on one Smart object layer and on another(duplicate background) layer you could apply more Denoise to ensure low frrquency objects look smoother/cleaner..... then mask accorindingly to show less Denoise on the subject and more on the background. I appreciate that it is perhaps a mute point over making adjustments before or after Denoise but I sense it is better to deal with the raw file in it's most basic state to begin with. Having said that I have read that the Denoise only works on the unadjusted raw file....I just feel that Adobe has more to offer than might be expected. Wellwe all have our favourite denoise filters I suppose, but from my POV I would go for Adobe and then if not entirely happy then try DxO4.......Hope this is food for thought, I am not claiming to be an expert but this works for me.

I think for more common uses of the removal tools , removing small parts of the scene { a bit of rubbish etc } it works better . The generative AI is nothing I personally would use but lots will

I had to go back to the previous version, this one has too many bugs and issues. And all the generative AI stuff has gotten much MUCH worse.

Content Creators should use Canva but Adobe.

Generative AI has no place in Photoshop or in any other image editor for serious photographers. AI is primarily a sales argument. But for people with no professional skills - it's just marvelous. Your investigation here reveals the abyss between claims from Adobe and reality. That's how the world works these days. But the half working shit must out due to hollow politics about constant improvement. This behavior is about to turn the reputable Photoshop into a funfair

Thanks for the video. Your settings are a little different from mine, which doesn't run too well, I'll try yours. Cheers, Robert.

As always, very instructive.:⁠-⁠)

In my opinion Topaz Photo AI has a problem with high contrast edges, typically smal branches against a bright sky, it will leave halos without any option to remove them.

Hands down the best explanation of soft proofing I have viewed on You Tube!! It's a pity your e-book on printing is not available yet for Mac OS - I would buy it. Would you care to share how you amend your .icc profile descriptions [to include media options etc.] or is it only applicable to Windows? Regards John Smith Melbourne

I had a photography student tag along with me on a wedding shoot about 20 years ago. When it came to shooting the wedding cake, I explained that the white balance is important because of the subtle tone of the icing. She asked what white balance is 🙄I assumed WB was one of the basics you learn first in a photography course.

Great channel 😀

This channel is dead doesnt have chance for appear in you tube world. This channel just repeat known topics from many channels.

Thanks for all the comparisons, good to see. I use all those programs plus DXO. I find DXO the best, usually, for very high ISO, noisy raw files. ACR / Lightroom Enhance is good for lower level background noise up to about 50%, giving few artifacts. With Topaz, especially sharpening, I sometimes put the image on a separate layer, then when back in Lightroom finish that layer off with "blend" if to remove highlighted edge artifacts etc.. I find that a good way to get a balance between some good sharpening and over-sharpening etc..

It may be overkill but I like to use a colorchecker passport as my first image ... 🦘

Hello Sir, I saw your TH-cam channel. Your channel has many videos but not enough views and subscribers. Your channel should be optimized, and your videos are very good but your video optimization is very bad Example: The SEO score is very low; there is no perfect title or description; no SEO-friendly tags added; no social media sharing platform; and There are some problems with the settings on your TH-cam channel. Because of this, your video is not reaching the people who are interested and you are not getting enough views, likes, and subscriptions There are many problems for which your video views and subscribers are not good. As a result, your video views are not affected. You need SEO for your TH-cam channel immediately. As a video SEO expert, I look forward to your response. I can help you grow your TH-cam channel. I hope you understand. Have a nice day. Regards Repon Howlader.

West coast of Scotland, yeah, it's gonna be wet. 1st June today and in England it still hasn't warmed up.

More quality content. Keep it up!

PHOTOTUTOR, Your videos always make me happy, so I subscribed!

Very helpful just tried on a couple of pictures looks good

Wonderful photos 👍

Wonderful photos!

I spent a large part of my youth walking and climbing in the Scottish highlands. Skye is a special, unique place up there, a rough, rugged, rocky mountainous island, geologically young compared to the really ancient rocks in some other parts of the Highlands. I've rarely been lucky with the weather on Skye, May and February were best for me. There's nothing except Harris and Lewis between the west of Skye and Canada so when it blows, by God it blows. Special place though.

"Promosm" 😕

Safe travels Mike and Maiva ❤

Enjoy your travels!

I would call this sharpening overkill .....!!!!!! You hammered the image with numerous contrast edits , starting within LR and its profile including capture sharpening , not even using the masking in the detail panel ???!!! Followed by the crappy Topaz edits . Then going further with fancy NIK filters .... again contrast / sharpening layers , well well ..... we all do work differently 🤔🤭. And then on top the heavy vivid light sharpening .... not even dropping the saturation on the inverted layer , nice introduction of false colors ..... 🤨..... we all work differently . I would say ... less is more on the sharpening front , but we all work differently 🙃😉. Kind regards Andreas

I'm typically a bird photographer. Most of the times the subject is very small and a super agressive crop has to be applied to show the full bird in 4x5 aspect ratio. The picture looks so perfect while editing in Photoshop, but gets pathetically blasted. If you are okay, I can mail my images to you. If you can guide on this issue you will be blessed by thousands of people like me.

Great stuff again Mike. My best tip was 'for some reason it never works the first time' when copying a mask....... I always thought it was just me. I wonder, for your example of the iceberg in the mist, if you had temporarily really overdone contrast using a curve or simmilar, and make the selection using the auto tools Would that work to give PS a more defined edge to select? Then discard the adjustment layer.

I learned some new techniques. Thank you.

Excellent. Thank you ...

Great tips thanks for sharing

Thank you for a very helpful video.

Thank you . Helpful

you are a gem, and i see humongous growth for your channel, your personality is professional by default

I found this video by luck and after viewing it immediately subscribed. Thank you for this technique. Based on this video alone you should have 817,000 subscribers.

Thank you, this is an amazing technique for sharpening and really neat when made into an action

Hi just came across your channel had a look at some of the tecniques your using. I found them very interesting and useful ill properly have to rewatch several times to get it into my workfolw. Really good stuff here thnks for sharing

Even when the blendif sliders are adjusted the color changes a lot in the image. In your example the brown tones become "flat". Any tip how to fix this without to many hussel?

Thanks, I made an action from your tut.... and it works great

Wow cracking video , you explain things really well , look forward to catching up on your previous videos

Nice video, I tried it and it works well. A thousand thanks.

3:40 the what the what?

There's nothing wrong with the noise, especially the noise you're getting in RAW files; it is pleasant, almost like film grain, I'd say. And your eye can still recognize all the details. It's easy to fall into that pixel-peeping trap, but in the end, you should only worry about medium size and viewing distance, and that's what you should keep in mind when picking the radius and amount of sharpening. Regular Photoshop sharpening works just fine. Lightroom sharpening is an absolute evil (because of these odd grayish mazes). As for the noise, at most typical print sizes (or display sizes), it will not be observable. If you like to share full-res photos, do not be ashamed of the noise; there's nothing wrong with it. I personally found that for fully zoomed pixel-peeping, the best sharpness radius is slightly below 1px. The rest, as I said, depends on the print size and intended viewing distance. Or maybe you want a typical wallpaper resolution, then account for that and how far people usually sit from their displays. But likely, after the downscaling no one will notice whatever you did to the noise.

I have found Topaz Denoise AI to have poorer NR AI results than DXO Pure RAW. I would highly recommend that people run that first before any other changes in Lightroom Classic. Similarly, Topaz Sharpen AI is very hit and miss, and from my personal experience, tends to over sharpen images and accentuate halos. Neither piece of software is recommended in my book. ymmv. edit: just as a FYI for other viewers, Topaz Denoise AI in Photoshop is working on a TIF file (16bit). You will ALWAYS have less information in a TIF file than the original RAW file. This is why it is important to do any denoising on the RAW file BEFORE importing into Photoshop. 2nd edit: it is also much better to apply NR at the end of your Photoshop workflow, not at the start. Each manipulation adds noise, so the layers above the Topaz Denoise AI layer are ALL adding noise to the image...

Another great contribution Mike. did you come up with this technique throught experimenting? Have you saved to an action?

4 years as Photo Editor, I just found out about this channel, fvck LOL🤣,