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I'm watching Your TH-cam videos with enjoyment. I too have a Lathe Boxford AUD and I need an information from You. I want to make some Metric Screw and I know I need a Gear 127/100. Please, if you have such a gear, could you tell me the millimetric dimensions of that gear ,I want to make them myself .tnx

I'm watching Your TH-cam videos with enjoyment. I have a Lathe Boxford AUD and I need an information from You. I want to make some Metric Screw and I know I need a Gear 127/100. Please, could you tell me the millimetric dimensions of that gear? Thank you.

But you need a tool and cutter grinder. Its easer to make one using high carbon steel and harden it after.

I like to oil a steel smokebox and door internally.

Great clip. Will nice to see more clips of the Romulus next year.

it looks like you make steam hydroplanes from those brass components on the bench .the wheel for back off had a 60 degree angle foe the under cut .iwould say you need a little more clearence but maybe its visual thing geting counterboars to cut is tricky to say the least i used to do it freehand and the components were in ally .The trouble with this is doing it within the bosses time scale. Im glad im retired from all that stuff ttfn&ty

Hello from Aus. Well acted instructions and video production. Keep up your work. BC

I've sent you a Facebook message regarding these instruments. Steve Addy, Sheffield.

What's the difference between a counterbore and a countersink please? flat bottomed?

Nice work. We shared this video on our homemade tool forum last week 😎

Great video Harold,I like this method and will try it out tomorrow.

Some of the best home cutter grinding content on TH-cam. Steam videos are fairly common… but very very few can share this kind of mix of toolroom experience and cutter grinding on a home made machine. Any chance of doing a cutter grinding series and perhaps how to make your machine, wheels etc. Thanks anyhow for taking the time to share …. I’ve watched many times from windy East Yorkshire and get fresh tips each viewing.

Thanks Harold. I found your channel the other day and subscribed immediately. I have started my collection of Bowers bore gauges this week. They are something I've been fancying for a few years, as I really don't like the telescopic things with a micrometer. 🙂 These two videos were absolutely excellent.Thanks for taking the trouble. Regards from Steve in Sheffield.

Very interesting. The height of your workbench and vice, the work height looks very convenient, good for the back and good sight. Is this the reason?

Interesting. Very nice work.

Very nice. I can come in awful handy Thanks for the video

My grandfather was a tool and die maker and I often wish I'd followed in his footsteps. Alas, now I can only watch and admire. Beautiful work sir! Thank you.

Cheers Harold, stumbled upon your channel, subbed, thanks for sharing buddy

I worked as motorcycle mechanic in South Wales from 78~90, early Harley's had terrible brakes (had to test ride a Ducati then a late 80's HD Big Twin, went sailing through a red light in Talbot Green( although European models got a lot better brakes and suspension over next few years, much better than 'domestic bikes). Japanese manufacturers had a steel insert to operate brake switch in the late 70's in that 'exact' position. Way too late to be any use, but, If lever was worn the brake light will be permanently on, plus, you would see the wear. The switch should have some adjustment or, the plastic plunger is worn? Harley parts are actually quite cheap but import duty and shipping make them very expensive in Britain (are they still classes as 'luxury item' with extra 40% VAT?) It's likely switch is faulty as very few people ever service them (in shop we sprayed 'Duck Oil' to keep water out.) Personally, I rode year round although I did often borrow one of siblings Honda 90's when there was snow on the ground. I use pin chuck on small taps, only got down to 1.8mm though and use normal tap handle over 3mm/1/8". As a machinist, you may find it funny that Honda used 1/8" Whitworth on spoke thread until at least late 1970's, at the time, Harley were using metric threads. I still have couple of BSA's, (bloody sore arse), several 1960's Royal Enfield's and lots of 'vintage' Japanese bikes (that were almost new in 1968 😁)

When I was training in mid 1970's, we were taught to just drill slightly short of counter-bore depth (by about length of chisel / drill point) then use a second drill bit ground square and off hand grind clearance. I still do the same to counter-bore for 6mm Allen head bolts, most have about 9mm head so 10mm drill bit is much cheaper than a 'proper' counter-bore particularly as it isn't something I use very often. It's interesting to see how it 'should be done' which is pretty much as I imagined. Tool and cutter grinder is something I should have made or acquired years ago, don't really have space for one though (don't have space for anything more than a mini bench lathe and mill) Really miss my big old Colchester. I'll check more of your video's.

That's good information, thanks for sharing!

Excellent video Excellent video ,did you make that grinding machine I'd like to get one..

Nicely done!

Ypur videos are so insightful. I would love if you did one on making a tap in hobby machine shop. Your videos on making a die were great.

Harold, it's worthwhile to get your music volume and narration volume very close to even, and also consistent, throughout the video.

Nice job, it cuts beautifully too

Very interesting video, I've made counter bores from silver steel and drilled/bored the face to fit a pin to act as a pilot, so the pilot isn't in the way when grinding or filing the cutting edges prior to hardening. I'll be giving this method a try, it'll be an interesting exercise. Thanks for the instruction, much appreciated.

G day Harold I haven’t given it any thought until I spotted your video thank you all the best for the festive season 🍺🍺 cheers

Another great video Harold. Maybe next time you show how to grind something, consider using a texted to colour the edge being ground to give contrast when your grinding so it shows up better on the video.

Nice work . Did you make the stent from a Kit

I worked for the Warehouse and Distribution for 32 years .. and visited Neville Road many times Sad when it all Closed.

My uncle pete ran the Yorkshire wartime weekend

Do you have anymore footage or photos of this event or line ?

That is a terrific record you have there sir and beautiful boilers!

Great video, thanks for sharing your knowledge. BTW I had to dissamble and polish away the rough machining marks on the dial indicator holder internal force locking surfaces. This finishing work made the indicator holder much nicer to use. Cheers-Peter

Excellent video thanks for showing us how to make a threading die

In response to splinting the die before hardening, try not quit cutting the cut all the way through before hardening, and cut the remaining material after hardening.

Loved you story of your early apprenticeship. I can remember as a kid working in workshops/boiler-rooms that were covered in red lead and asbestos.

Another great video Harold. When I've had need to make a chasing die, I've just used 4140 steel and I taped the thread first and then drill out the clearance holds with an end mill on the mill after threading process on the lathe. Then I've place the die in a tin containing charcoal and heated it in my furnace until red hot, allow enough time for the carbon to move from the charcoal and in the metal to improve hardness. Then I quench the die in oil. I've never bothered to split the die. I've also quenched taps using the process of water over oil as you have mentioned.

Thanks for sharing your knowledge, even though you encountered some problems it’s all very useful information.

Only come across your channel and this is fascinating. your Boxford reminds me of school there was something about the drive that had a distinct sound. looking forward to part two now. thanks for taking time to make and upload.

Back in the days of steam it was a common sight to see banker locomotives helping to get trains out of Exchange station. In this case losing a few hundred yards of track by moving the Interchange further up the track probably did not help to get a good run up the steepest part of the track.

I’m from heywood near bury lol 😅 there apparently knocking the market down to build bloody houses

Great video Harold, just a quick question regarding your Boxford is the traverse handwheel dial a factory fitting or is it something you have contrived ?

Hi Harold, nice video I just found your channel.

Those Noga style mag bases really are versatile, picked mine up when I retired after a lifetime of using and adapting Eclipse ones !

Interesting use of the scribing block to dial in the gauge block. Thank you for putting the video together and passing this onto the rest of us.

The Basics still rule.

I like the pin idea as I was wondering about the interrupted cut.

Brilliant Harold thanks for taking the time to share, I've always wondered how the best way was to form the cutting edges, never thought of drilling the holes first and plugging them.