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As long as there not damage you should be fine

@@dh1175 thanks 👍

Sorry it didn't work for you. Hopefully the rest of the video gives you some good insight. By no means am I a professional. Lol. Good luck

@@dh1175 No you are great at explaining the process I haven't given up thanks👍

Thanks man

I said the same thing. But 400 to 450 it doesn't.

My motor locked up at 180k so I had to replace the whole motor so I did this video do to the replacement motor. Sorry to hear of your problems hopefully this video helps you out. I couldn't find anything on this motor so I did my best to show my set up . Sorry I'm not much of a camera man .

@@dh1175 @pirategmunger First of all I just want to say thank you for this video! I have searched far and wide for a video of how to change the injectors of a 2010 v6 camaro. I'm in Nigeria, so as you can imagine, not a lot of expertise here (Asian and European Cars are more common here). I took it to the autoshop (I'll speak to symptoms in a minute) and my mechanic was scared of diving deep into the engine to find the injectors cos he didnt want to damage something else. This is the only video I know of that actually explains how to get to them for my exact car! Thank you! @pirategmunger here were my car symptoms. In hindsight I think it started with occasional smoky and jerky idle starts that would clear after a short drive or battery reset. I initially thought it was bad fuel, but after a few days no issues. Then one day, when I was about to leave the office, driving out of the car park, I experienced a sudden reduced engine power error. Car goes into limp mode and stayed like that until I got to my destination. Fuel consumption and smoke became prevalent - I could literally smell the unburnt fuel coming out of the exhaust. Codes were P0089 (fuel pressure regulator 1 perfomance) and P0030 (random/multiple cylinder misfire detected). Turns out Cylinders 1, 3 and 5 were misfiring (and all were on bank 1). Hence, since regulator 1 and bank 1 cylinders were misfiring, we were able to narrow it down to something along that side. We did the easy trial by elimination - changed spark plugs, no effect; switched ignition coils, same cylinder error codes, then had to stop cos my mechanic didnt know how to get to the injectors to check if any was damaged. So, with the help of this video, once my new injectors arrive, we will change them together. One thing though, during my research, I saw a video of someone who had the same problem and same codes, and it turns out that he was able to solve his problem by changing the fuel pressure regulator (located near the fuel tank underneath the rear passenger side). He also advised if that doesnt work, to also change the fuel pressure sensor that @dh showed in his video (below the manifold). These 2 items are relatively easy to install. So I have ordered them too and will change them first before diving into the injectors as last resort. Were you able to sort yours out?

Yez I totally agree. I really need video skills. Lol. I did this on a phone and totally off the hip. I have 0 skills with you tube. Lol.

O I had to put a new motor in and my injectors were good. But you have to rebuild every time you pull them out

Make more videos I appreciate you

@@dh1175 I'm at that point brother. Had to make a milkshake to cool down. I got both U shaped valve off from the back . I still need to remove the driver side fuel rail and then the injectors and the connectors. Is it 100% need to to replace the bushings?

www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/chevrolet,2011,camaro,3.6l+v6,1446663,fuel+&+air,fuel+injector+seal+/+o-ring,13679

@@dh1175 dang. I'll order new one right now while I'm Messing with this. The drivers side is kind of a pain. Can't get easy access to the clips on the injectors

$28 but you need 2 sets of them .

Yes and yes

@@dh1175 Thank you for responding so quickly! I plan on making an in depth video on this since I have a bad fuel injector and like you said you had to figure it out yourself since there isn't an indepth guide. I plan on shouting you out since you not only showed me where it's located but showed some tips on removing and reinstalling. Once again thank you!

@@justaguy6181 no problem. Good luck . And hopefully you find a easier way. Just trying to help out anyway I can

@@justaguy6181 th-cam.com/video/UyXs4g79F4s/w-d-xo.html

@@justaguy6181 watch the other video. I'm sorry for the stopping of the other video but it should give you the information you're looking for

I did it was a B !

Year models must vary. On my Camaro I can’t get the rail out with the injectors still attached. It’s hitting the head on the opposite bank.

www.ebay.com/itm/1-5-HP-Automatic-Tire-Changer-Wheel-Changers-Machine-Rim-Balancer-Combo-960-680-/192661858819?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0

That's the best part of being a hobbyists. It doesn't matter. Not a business. I'm always learning. By no means I'm I a professional. Lol. Also. I learned about bleed on this set of rims. If you look really hard you will see that the florescent orange will bleed into the black and make green. So learning is a big part of this game.

@@dh1175 yes sir, we've been through it many times. We past the hobby stage so a finger over is a killer for us!

If its clean and doesn't need stripped 100 to 200

@@dh1175 what do you mean stripping. I powder coat and blast but I've never done plastic. How would I prep it for you? Or what needs to be stripped

Sorry it's the Engin cover on a 2018 Dodge Challenger RT

Never powdercoat plastic. And strip? If someone has rattle can it. Then I use a Painter stripper. Or plastic dip it. More steps more money. But if I can just sand with 1500 grit and go it's cheaper

@@dh1175 it's never been touched. And my engine bay of my car is clean. So I would just take it off and send to you or take it off and sand at 1500 grit. I take it's better to hand sand then blast in my blast cabinet.

Fuel pressure was leaking out the top of the injection. Then I had miss fires .