I actually tracked it down. Alternator ground, was arcing against the body, and kept frying the 100 Amp battery fuse. Seeing as nothing else was blowing, I deducted, that it had to be on the starting/charging end, which is nice, ans isolated on a CRV.
No. Factory wiring, to ECU is 4 wore for the SI...some run 5 wire, but as to what the deciding factor is...no idea. Can't run them together. Width of connectors won't allow them to mate.
Hello, I came across your 1998 F150 timing replacement video . I hope you realized soon that the right side sprocket was backwards and that's why both chains were rubbing each other. I had to make sure mine was installed correctly as well. Take care.
So...I ended up taking the timing cover off, so I could see why it kept binding, as I went to torque down the crank pulley bolt. Off top of my head, I can't recall what the torque spec was, but I was getting about 20 lbs short of spec, and the chains were binding. It was pushing the crank sprocket back, and binding the chains. I think someone had refused the crank pulley bolt, previous to me working on it. New crank bolt and sprocket for the chain at crank, fixed it.
@@jeremybell2938 so that all sounds like a spacing issue not really a yield point of fastener. I watched the other two videos. There's only so much room to stack so many pieces in such ways. I saw the two chains come unbound when applied pressure was released. The chains should NEVER be that close.
@@jeremybell2938 the one piece crank sprocket and stamped steel tone wheel are the upgraded parts to the original. They're the same parts for all 2v, 3v, and 4v mod motors to present. Sorry I couldn't help you out with your dilemma at the time. I can understand your frustration in the videos.
Some people will scream "NO!", but if you are very delicate...if you find a small, flat head screwdriver, ans a small hammer, you can massage between the ring, and bore of the block, until you "deform" the ring...just don't want the screwdriver to gouge into the block side...angle as you hit, so the brunt goes to the ring side.
The person was up in the hills, and said she had that tire go over an embankment, and stuck, got it towed out, and brought to me. I can only reverse engineer, that it took a good shot on the underside of the brake assembly area, forcing it upward, and bending it.
Thank you very very much it worked I was getting ready to send it off and get beat out of 100.00 bocks plus shipping and it still wouldn’t have worked. Oh did I say thank you.
I just stumbled on this today. Crazy. My 1999 Town and Country instrument cluster has been intermittently misbehaving, following the pattern of bad solder joints. I have not done a repair. In the meantime the rear wiper system quit - briefly - but the problem has not reoccurred. This video might be the clue I need. I assume you have figured out the water entry problem - plugging of the two drains that empty the windshield wiper system pan of rain water. Mine have plugged twice, and each time sent water into the passenger footwell. Fortunately the fix is as easy as they come.
Awesome job with this video. I have a lifter tapping on my vk56 due to oil burn off. I liked how you quoted this motor at 2K but that was 5 years ago LOL. They're probably more around 8 or 9 now. I love how you pointed out newbie type mistakes, cuz I am prone to making those for sure
great video..my problem exactly..have not done anything yet...use to bang on dash all would work...no more..Question..what do you believe is the issue that causes this...the harness plug into heat control unit getting bad connection ??...will try your fix.....and your right...you speak fast and clearly ..no B.S....will back track your videos to see if you have ones showing how to remove covers and units.
Where's the rebuild video? All I see is you torquing down the head bolts. You're video has been deleted dude. Either that or you completely mislabeled it, because that is not a rebuild video, it's a head bolts video. Useless.
If I recall, it is a Haynes. I can double check here in a bit when I get home. I always recommend to get both a Haynes, and a Chilton's. Years of doing engines, and I have found instances, not alot, but a few...enough to realize, that occasionally, one manual will be missing info, or have different info, so to have both is great. If in doing, call the dealership, and ask for a tech to verify which is correct.
Thanks imma try this my ka block has rusted freeze plugs and just got it from the machine shop not sure if I needed to thrown the block back in to get the coolant passenger ways to further cleaned. I'm pretty sure they did.
The freeze plugs on the 4.3 are difficult with the engine in. If it is driver's side, you can remove the intermediate shaft that runs from your steering wheel, through the firewall, to the steering gear, and then remove the inner fender, plastic splash shields. That is about the most I can offer in that side. Without pulling the motor, you can take a jack, with a wood block, and put it under the oil pan(make sure you use a piece of wood, like a 2x4, between the jack, and oil pan...so you don't put a hole in the oil pan), then pull the motor mount through bolts, and jack the engine up a few inches, to try and gain some access, or space.
Are you asking if you can mark the head bolts with a "dot" instead of the angle torque on the wrench? If so, yes, you can, I have in the past, engineering usually allows about 5° of variation above, and below . .so at 60°, they allow down to 55°, or up to 65°, just make a mark on the head bolt....then, before torquing it the first 60°, make another mark on the head, just on the outside of where the bolt is ...at roughly 60°, then torque, until your marks match.
On the driver side, there is an area where I believe the heater core hoses go into a fitting, and a larger, coolant hose goes into, you have to really get contortionist like, and peek in there, to see a little nipple. That nipple is a bleeder valve. You fill the radiator, let it run for about 30 seconds, so that the water pump can circulate it, and then shut it off. The level will have dropped, from the circulation. Then top it again. Then open that bleeder valve slightly. Any air will be expelled. Then start the car, and you have to be careful, and get to that bleeder again, with it running, and the valve open, once you see a continuous stream out the bleeder...no "spitting" of air pockets, but straight stream, then close the valve, top the coolant, and you should be good. Also, your heat should be set to High, and blower for your inside fan on High during the entire process as well.
@@semihyilmaz4699 I put the cap on....top the coolant, let it run for 30 seconds to circulate...open the cap, and top again, then to do the bleed, I left the cap off, so that as it expelled, and spit out air pockets, ai was able to continue to add coolant, then when you get to a point where no more air pockets are "spitting" out of the bleeder, shut it off, let it cool, top one last time, then cap it.
I think be to late but a second video with the axle nut tight with the correct torque and see if still have the same play
Lol... Just a lil bit... it should be fine...
Lol, just a lil bit...
Just changed one.. just sell it as junk. Not a easy task
Wow! There is no excuse for this. Most 13 year olds know better.
Rewire every ground with new, and when applicable, thicker gauge wire. Problem should be solved
I actually tracked it down. Alternator ground, was arcing against the body, and kept frying the 100 Amp battery fuse. Seeing as nothing else was blowing, I deducted, that it had to be on the starting/charging end, which is nice, ans isolated on a CRV.
Grounds are so important to
Is there a freeze plug on back of engine? And do you have to remove transmission?
There is generally never a freeze plug on the rear of an engine block, but cylinder heads will have them on the rear, facing the firewall.
Link for freeze plug
Is it definitely the correct harness? Have you tried it anyway? Maybe the fifth wire isn't needed on that model...
No. Factory wiring, to ECU is 4 wore for the SI...some run 5 wire, but as to what the deciding factor is...no idea. Can't run them together. Width of connectors won't allow them to mate.
Hello, I came across your 1998 F150 timing replacement video . I hope you realized soon that the right side sprocket was backwards and that's why both chains were rubbing each other. I had to make sure mine was installed correctly as well. Take care.
Plastic tanks. Worst design ever.
Just WOW !!!! SUPER EXCELLENT
How is that upper pulley turning with no belt?
bravo maestro
I've seen those forks crack down by the throw out bearing and they twist at that point as opposed to pushing the bearing
Hello subaru better check your oil while you're in there.... ALL your fluids!!
You have comments disabled and you never posted a final fixed video.....
Hey, so what was the final on the timing chain problem with the F150?!?!?! Wrong tone wheel????
So...I ended up taking the timing cover off, so I could see why it kept binding, as I went to torque down the crank pulley bolt. Off top of my head, I can't recall what the torque spec was, but I was getting about 20 lbs short of spec, and the chains were binding. It was pushing the crank sprocket back, and binding the chains. I think someone had refused the crank pulley bolt, previous to me working on it. New crank bolt and sprocket for the chain at crank, fixed it.
@@jeremybell2938 so that all sounds like a spacing issue not really a yield point of fastener. I watched the other two videos. There's only so much room to stack so many pieces in such ways. I saw the two chains come unbound when applied pressure was released. The chains should NEVER be that close.
@@jeremybell2938 the one piece crank sprocket and stamped steel tone wheel are the upgraded parts to the original. They're the same parts for all 2v, 3v, and 4v mod motors to present. Sorry I couldn't help you out with your dilemma at the time. I can understand your frustration in the videos.
I ended up with the upgraded, one piece sprocket as well.
I've got just the ring of a freeze plug on my old AMC 360 in my jeep, not sure how im gonna get it out
Some people will scream "NO!", but if you are very delicate...if you find a small, flat head screwdriver, ans a small hammer, you can massage between the ring, and bore of the block, until you "deform" the ring...just don't want the screwdriver to gouge into the block side...angle as you hit, so the brunt goes to the ring side.
@@jeremybell2938 got it, thanks!
What was the problem you solve
So what ended up being the fix for this?
I ended up doing the inner axle shaft, and the hub, and wheel bearing. It came as an assembly, so it makes it a really easy job.
Fuckin fuck!
According to babvven and tebbven soon all combustion engines will be banned!
I know I am late to the party, but very interesting concept. I am binge watching all your Civic Si rebuild videos. 😀
What caused the axel to bend?
The person was up in the hills, and said she had that tire go over an embankment, and stuck, got it towed out, and brought to me. I can only reverse engineer, that it took a good shot on the underside of the brake assembly area, forcing it upward, and bending it.
Thank You so much for this video. This is the exact problem I’m having
Do you have to pull the motor to change the oil pump
Where can I find the manual? Thanks
Haynes makes a manual for Titan, and Armada
@@jeremybell2938 thanks!
Cool will give it a try, thanks
Thank you very very much it worked I was getting ready to send it off and get beat out of 100.00 bocks plus shipping and it still wouldn’t have worked. Oh did I say thank you.
I don't know y my dumas is watching this use pressure on the hose
I just stumbled on this today. Crazy. My 1999 Town and Country instrument cluster has been intermittently misbehaving, following the pattern of bad solder joints. I have not done a repair. In the meantime the rear wiper system quit - briefly - but the problem has not reoccurred. This video might be the clue I need. I assume you have figured out the water entry problem - plugging of the two drains that empty the windshield wiper system pan of rain water. Mine have plugged twice, and each time sent water into the passenger footwell. Fortunately the fix is as easy as they come.
Awesome job with this video. I have a lifter tapping on my vk56 due to oil burn off. I liked how you quoted this motor at 2K but that was 5 years ago LOL. They're probably more around 8 or 9 now. I love how you pointed out newbie type mistakes, cuz I am prone to making those for sure
Check the heater core fella
Hey honey fired up I think it's a going to start
Hahaha I wonder if that engine got enough water yet
That looks like a seriously frustrating situation
Right. Clown show.
great video..my problem exactly..have not done anything yet...use to bang on dash all would work...no more..Question..what do you believe is the issue that causes this...the harness plug into heat control unit getting bad connection ??...will try your fix.....and your right...you speak fast and clearly ..no B.S....will back track your videos to see if you have ones showing how to remove covers and units.
Where's the rebuild video? All I see is you torquing down the head bolts. You're video has been deleted dude. Either that or you completely mislabeled it, because that is not a rebuild video, it's a head bolts video. Useless.
That's why all these engines look so clean...
Lol
vvt?
Ebay has lots of short and long blocks hand built by real machinists. Buying a mass produced rebuilt block is a bad idea.
Imperative that cams removed?
Yes. Cams will block access to the head bolts.
Appreciate response and information. Vid is good to go and thanks for posting.
What book is that?
If I recall, it is a Haynes. I can double check here in a bit when I get home. I always recommend to get both a Haynes, and a Chilton's. Years of doing engines, and I have found instances, not alot, but a few...enough to realize, that occasionally, one manual will be missing info, or have different info, so to have both is great. If in doing, call the dealership, and ask for a tech to verify which is correct.
@@jeremybell2938 Greatly Appreciate the response sir!
Thanks imma try this my ka block has rusted freeze plugs and just got it from the machine shop not sure if I needed to thrown the block back in to get the coolant passenger ways to further cleaned. I'm pretty sure they did.
fly wheel install did not see you do it what size torx bolt size
Man what if you can't pull the motor and have minimal tools
The freeze plugs on the 4.3 are difficult with the engine in. If it is driver's side, you can remove the intermediate shaft that runs from your steering wheel, through the firewall, to the steering gear, and then remove the inner fender, plastic splash shields. That is about the most I can offer in that side. Without pulling the motor, you can take a jack, with a wood block, and put it under the oil pan(make sure you use a piece of wood, like a 2x4, between the jack, and oil pan...so you don't put a hole in the oil pan), then pull the motor mount through bolts, and jack the engine up a few inches, to try and gain some access, or space.
Can do 2 dots?
Are you asking if you can mark the head bolts with a "dot" instead of the angle torque on the wrench? If so, yes, you can, I have in the past, engineering usually allows about 5° of variation above, and below . .so at 60°, they allow down to 55°, or up to 65°, just make a mark on the head bolt....then, before torquing it the first 60°, make another mark on the head, just on the outside of where the bolt is ...at roughly 60°, then torque, until your marks match.
Do you know how do we bleed the coolant system after radiator replacement ?
On the driver side, there is an area where I believe the heater core hoses go into a fitting, and a larger, coolant hose goes into, you have to really get contortionist like, and peek in there, to see a little nipple. That nipple is a bleeder valve. You fill the radiator, let it run for about 30 seconds, so that the water pump can circulate it, and then shut it off. The level will have dropped, from the circulation. Then top it again. Then open that bleeder valve slightly. Any air will be expelled. Then start the car, and you have to be careful, and get to that bleeder again, with it running, and the valve open, once you see a continuous stream out the bleeder...no "spitting" of air pockets, but straight stream, then close the valve, top the coolant, and you should be good. Also, your heat should be set to High, and blower for your inside fan on High during the entire process as well.
@@jeremybell2938 Thank you 👍
@@jeremybell2938 Do you know if the cap on the coolant reservoir needs to be off or closed tightly during the bleeding ( letting the air out) process?
@@semihyilmaz4699 I put the cap on....top the coolant, let it run for 30 seconds to circulate...open the cap, and top again, then to do the bleed, I left the cap off, so that as it expelled, and spit out air pockets, ai was able to continue to add coolant, then when you get to a point where no more air pockets are "spitting" out of the bleeder, shut it off, let it cool, top one last time, then cap it.