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No, not if you just hand wash. But definitely don’t let it sit in water. I did a few tests and letting it sit in water did start to make the paint feel soft. I was still able to fix that by drying it fully and then spraying another coat of the varnish. I have another video of which varnish worked best for glass.

I only used oil once in my acrylic pour when I first started because at that time, most artists were using silicone oil. I tried it and instantly hated it. It not only made weird holes and dips but you had to wash the canvas thoroughly with soap and water (sometimes multiple times) and then dry it fully to get the oil removed from the surface before you could varnish or seal it. It was a mess in my opinion. So after that first time, no oil or silicone for me. This didn’t have it either. 👍🏻

@@NancyONeillthank you so much for responding. Beautiful work. I had the same experience

Here are the things I tried and what I ended up using. th-cam.com/video/0TcpCrV0LmY/w-d-xo.htmlsi=s4O-kvc_diGy_LOR

I haven’t tested it against heat so I can’t say. I’ve only used it on cold drink glasses and always wash/dry them by hand.

Here’s another video I did with the best sealant option I found. It’s lasted for years on these glasses but I always ONLY wash them by hand and dry them. th-cam.com/video/0TcpCrV0LmY/w-d-xo.htmlsi=E1HRYtS-_qWnh5g9 I did another experiment and let them sit in water for 15-20 min and that started to make the painted/sealed area a little soft which meant it was degrading. So as soon as it felt tacky to touch, I dried it thoroughly, let it sit for 24-36 hours and then used the same spray varnish (from the video). It hardened up and was just like when I first did them. No lasting negative effects. So if you left them in water too long, the paint would separate from the glass I believe. Since it’s a smooth surface with water-based acrylics, the adhesion isn’t strong like if you had a porous surface. There are glass paints that I think you could used this same dipping technique but I haven’t tried those. Good luck and have fun. 👍🏻

Hope you have fun with this technique.

Absolutely not. I've experimented with one glass and just set it in water in the sink for several hours, basically like you said soaking it. Even with that, the paint started to separate from the glass. So I am 99.99999% positive that the hot water in a dishwasher would peel the paint and varnish right off. Someone gave me a painted coffee mug that didn't come with instructions. It seemed like it was sealed but I mistakenly put it in the dishwasher and the design sort of melted away. So with any painted glasses, mugs, etc., even if they're sealed with a waterproof varnish, I would always hand wash only. Even those who seal with resin recommend their products get hand washed. When I've given these away, I print up a little Care/Instructions card so people know they are NOT dishwasher safe and even recommend not letting them sit in water very long.

Not sure what's up with that. I just started an Etsy shop a couple of monthsh ago. That's probably an easier place to find my art. Here's the link. www.etsy.com/shop/NancyOArt or if you're on Instagram, I'm there at instagram.com/artbynancyo/ I couldn't get the same names for both which is why they're reversed. ;)

Yes, I had a silicone mat on the counter for this video. It's one from lolivefe.com. They have a ton of silicone products. But before I bought the silicone mat, I used to use the shiny side of freezer paper which I just got at Walmart. Paint peels off that just as well so you can reuse it several times.

I went and looked at that same can from the video and it's crazy that nowhere on it does it specify oil or water based. The only thing it says is "For easy clean-up, use lacquer thinner." That would lead me to think it's oil-based. However, when I Googled "how to tell if varnish is oil or water based?" it says oil-based has an amber hue which darkens over time whereas water-based stays clear. Since I used this spray varnish a couple of years ago, it's stayed clear so that makes me think it's water-based and polyurethane apparently does come in both versions (according to other resources). To tell you the truth, it's confusing. When I looked on Minwax's site, they've changed the can design so it's hard to tell. You'd think they would have better information. Wish I had a definitive answer for you.

@@NancyONeill I’m inclined to think it’s oil based as well. At this point all I can do is keep trying different products. I’m determined to make this work as the pieces I have done turned out beautifully. Not to toot my own horn. 😂 But I also can’t sell stuff that isn’t going to last. I appreciate you red ndong do quickly. I do love the way your glasses turned out with this product so maybe this will be the one. 🤞🏼🤞🏼🤞🏼

Sorry I missed your message as I try to reply to each one right away. To answer your question, yes, I mix the acrylic paint with Floetrol which is a paint conditioner you can get in Home Depot, Lowes and I think they might have it at Walmart. For this dipping process, it's generally a little thicker than fluid paint that's poured on a canvas. The general ratio is about 1 part paint to 2 parts Floetrol although that depends a little on the brand of paint too. If it's thinner to begin with, then it's closer to 1:1. You want it thick enough to not run off the glass but not so thick that it's like painting with a brush. Hope that helps.

I've been using these same glasses since I did them in March 2020, hand washing them, and they've never yellowed. Granted, I didn't use much white paint so if you had a lot of white in your design, you may see some yellowing over time because there isn't a varnish or even a resin that doesn't eventually yellow, regardless if they say it's UV protected. Have fun.

Well you're full of sugar and spice. By the way, I've been using these painted AND sealed glasses for over two years and with hand washing, the paint is still in tact. Go figure? But you're entitled to your opinion and I'm assuming you're just having a bad day but at least you took time to watch my video. ;)

Oh my, I wish I had the perfect answer for you but I've never done anything that massive like a back splash. If you could, I'd make a test piece of glass and try different sealants. You wouldn't want to spray or varnish or even resin the whole back splash, attach it to the wall and then find out it yellows or something. Sorry I can't be of more help. Good luck.

I think I answered your question on Instagram but just in case, yes, you could use pre-mixed paint but I know some brands aren’t as good at creating cells. Since it takes so little paint to dip glasses though, it’s definitely worth trying. Have fun.

Thank you. No, it’s not car acrylic. It’s just regular art acrylic paints. I use the cheap stuff from Walmart as well as a bit more expensive brands from Michaels or other craft stores. I mix all my colors with American floetrol that I get from Lowes or Home Depot. The paint to floetrol ratio is usually 1 part paint to 2 parts floetrol and if the paint brand is thicker than usual, I’ll add a few drops of water until I get the right consistency. For most swipe pours, it’s the consistency of very runny warm honey. I don’t use any silicone to get the cells. I tried silicone once when I first started pouring but I hated it. It’s so greasy and getting it washed off well enough so it doesn’t leave divots in the varnish is such a hassle. The way I get the natural cells is by making sure all the colors including the base color are the same consistency. Plus, when you’re swiping with white on the canvas, that’s one if the denser/heavier colors so it naturally pushes through the other colors down to the canvas which creates the cells. Hope that makes sense.

I don’t see why it wouldn’t work as long as your art is fully cured. But I’ve never worked with alcohol inks so I can’t swear to it. Check out this video though. It might help. I thought it was interesting for inks. Good luck. th-cam.com/video/XazGjoVmrq0/w-d-xo.html

Without seeing it, here’s my best guess based on your description. At first I thought it might be painted and then sealed with resin which would give it a shinier finish than this spray varnish. But having tape remove paint wouldn’t happen if resin was used as the sealant. I haven’t tried an experiment about putting a sticker or tape on my painted, sealed glasses but even with the spray I use, I doubt any sticker or tape would pull off the paint regardless of how strong the adhesive was. So it’s hard to say what sealant was used and why a sticker was able to pull off paint. So to answer your question, if the area outside where the paint came off has a ridge that you can feel or see, I think the ridge would still be there even if you varnished it again. But if the paint removed didn’t leave a deep gap and you can’t feel the difference between the painted part and the missing paint part, then spraying this polyurethane would reseal it and there shouldn’t be a ridge. Depending on where the price sticker was, is it possible that you could repair with a little matching paint before sealing it? Sorry I couldn’t give you a definitive answer. Ahhh, just thought of something else. It’s possible the paint they used was an enamel specifically designed for glass which is naturally very shiny. If that’s what type was used AND they didn’t seal it, a sticker adhesive might pull off some paint. But even so, it doesn’t change my thoughts about resealing it as I described above.

@@NancyONeill I have repaired it with acrylic paint. Where I repaired, a very small area, it is not shiny like the remainder of the glass. I don't feel a distinct ridge so I wonder if perhaps it was sprayed. I think that is the route I will take. It is a small area so shouldn't be a problem. I will talk to the store and remind them not to price over painted areas when there are other places it could be done!! Thank you for your quick reply. How long should I wait for this paint to cure before I put the spray on it? thank you in advance

@@valoriemaner9902 sounds like a good plan. I always wait a week before I seal it.

Based on my experience, my best guess is it would keep it sealed just fine. What I found with the polyurethane spray is that it made the acrylic paint rock hard. Before I sprayed it, the painted part had a typical acrylic feeling when I rubbed my finger over it, pressed my fingernail into it and also tapped the painted part of the glass. But after the spray, the painted part felt and sounded just like the plain glass part. I've used these same two glasses for about two years and by just hand washing them, it's held up very well. The only "lessons learned" I had in the past few months was when I left the glass sitting in water for a couple of hours before washing and drying it. Then the spray seemed to get a little tacky. At that point, I was able to make a fingernail mark in the painted part. I immediately kicked myself for letting it sit in water but who knew? So I figured I'd just give it another spray of the same varnish and let it sit for a week before using it again. BINGO! It re-sealed the paint and now I can't even remember or tell which one I re-sprayed. So based on all that, I would imagine the acrylic markers with this spray sealant would do just fine. Just don't make the same mistake I did and let it sit in water. I guess I just got lazy one day and didn't hand wash right away. ;)

Honestly, I have never tried baking anything painted. One reason is, I was always afraid to get smells in the house from chemicals. Plus we had a new oven when I started doing these so I didn't want to risk something ruining the oven. ;) Here's a link though from the Plaid website about baking painted glass. But when people explain this process, they're usually showing examples on ceramic cups, not clear glasses. I'd be concerned the clear glass would be too fragile, especially if they were stemmed. plaidonline.com/brands/folkart/folkart-enamels/how-to-cure-painted-glass-projects The other thing I don't know about is baking paint on glass when there's floetrol in the paint as I use. I'm not sure what happens to floetrol when heated. It could give off toxins. Maybe check with other artists or Google some. Just be careful. :)

Just make sure it's one of the wind-resistant lighters. It can't just be a regular lighter because you still need the forced air with the heat. Theh regular lighters just have flames.

I just used one of the brown/orange ones the other day, hand washed it again and it’s just as shiny as the green one which I’ve only used once. I did these two years ago so I figure that’s a pretty good test.

Heads up. Yesterday I used one of these same glasses but instead of hand washing it right away, I set it in the sink in some water. Live and learn. DO NOT SOAK THE PAINTED/VARNISHED part. Even though the varnish should protect the paint, it did seem to make the varnish thinner in some places which then took some of the shininess away. I pressed my fingernail in the paint to see if it would make a dent and it did. So clearly, leaving it set in water for hours was the wrong thing to do. But I gave it another coat of the same spray varnish and it’s now back to a hard, shiny finish like it originally was. Just wanted to forewarn you of my “accidental” test. You can’t leave them sit in water. 🤦🏼‍♀️

I tried two different ones but liked the polyurethane spray the best. Here's the test video that shows both. th-cam.com/video/0TcpCrV0LmY/w-d-xo.html

@@NancyONeill Thank you so much. You do awesome work

My pouring mixture is any acrylic paint, American floetrol, and sometimes a bit of water to thin it out for certain techniques. But for dips like this, it’s a little thicker.

Here's the one where I dipped the glasses. th-cam.com/video/AhQ3RnLv2j4/w-d-xo.html

@@NancyONeill Thank you so much! Loved the video. I'm trying this tomorrow.

@@brendaallen7735 let me know how it goes. Here's a thought if you like doing them. If you live in an area where there are wineries or even just gift shops with that type of stuff, you could show them the finished product and see if they'd be interested in selling them on consignment or maybe they'd buy them wholesale from you. Or for a different idea, you could team up with some wedding planner and maybe include custom ones for the couple or even sell some for bridal showers, etc. Maybe in the bride's favorite colors. Just some ideas if you're interested in selling opportunities.

@@NancyONeill What great ideas! I have been pour painting for about a year and know that I have to invest some money in marketing if I want to continue. I am always looking for other avenues and ideas. I really love the glasses. You are a generous person and I appreciate you.

@@brendaallen7735 thanks for the compliment. 😊 I like brainstorming and sharing ideas. I’ve been waffling on setting up an Etsy page. I’ve sold a couple of paintings through Reddit and Instagram but those were random. I’ve given a lot away since I started pouring in 2019 but I’d like to find selling options besides having to set up the Etsy shop. We actually live in an area with over 30 wineries and similar gift shops but by the time I felt good enough about my art to start contacting some local businesses, Covid hit and I lost all my creative mojo so I actually stopped pouring for almost 2 years. I’ve just gotten back into it in the past few months. My walls are filling up fast with more paintings so I really need to get busy on the business opportunities. Gotta admit, I think more people are interested in functional art vs buying a wall painting. Keep me posted.

That’s a good question. I don’t have any experience with screen printing on glass so I can’t address that specifically. As far as that image part looking like “normal glass” still, not quite sure what you mean by that. The parts that I dipped in paint and then sealed with the spray varnish still look like normal glass except that they’re painted. You can tell it’s still glass though. Keep in mind that with my glasses, the paint is on the underside so when you look at the glass upright, you’re seeing the painted part of the stem base through glass. Although because I used opaque paints, you can’t see “through” the painted base. But it’s very shiny underneath from the spray varnish and shiny when looking from the top side because that’s not painted so it’s clear glass. Hope that makes sense. One thing I always caution though is not to spray varnish anywhere close to parts of glasses or plates where food or mouths come in contact with. So I always recommend doing the design and varnishing on the underside. If this didn’t help or you have other questions or want to explain your project more, feel free. I’m always here to help if I can.

Hi Deborah, This particular Minwax spray is oil-based. Here’s the link to the product on their website. www.minwax.com/wood-products/clear-protective-finishes/interior/minwax-fastdrying-polyurethane I honestly didn’t even try an acrylic spray because I thought any water-based sealer wouldn’t hold up as well. I could be wrong though. But I used this polyurethane after seeing another video so I tried it and it worked great. The paint hasn’t come off with hand washing so I guess it was the right choice. However, I have googled “how to seal acrylic paint on glass” and found plenty of sites that say to use an acrylic sealant. I wish I had a more definitive answer or advice for you. I’d check out a few more videos or google sealing glass and then see what you’re comfortable trying based on what products you can find there. Maybe try a test piece and wash it a bunch of times to see how it holds up. The only thing I’d say for sure is don’t paint or get sealant near the top where you’d drink from or if it’s on a dish where food would touch. Even if something says it’s “food safe,” I personally wouldn’t want to take a chance.

I've never done lettering on anything so I can only give you my feelings about sealing anything on the drinking part of a glass. I, personally, wouldn't do it because of the toxicity. And even if you taped off a section on top where a person's mouth would touch, they'd still be holding the varnished part and potentially could have some toxic effect. I just don't use any toxic products around food. That's why I only pour/varnish on the bottom of glasses. ;) However, when you asked, I was curious about lettering so I searched TH-cam to see what other artists do. Found a great video that explains why this one artist doesn't use any sealer on her glasses with lettering. I think it might be helpful for you. th-cam.com/video/BFBjP_fR5-4/w-d-xo.html

The end results are in the video. I showed the end results of the bottoms of the glasses. What did I miss?

Resin would work too and give it a glossier finish. I chose to use the spray because I don’t like working with resin (chemicals, price, finicky, etc). If you happen to not mix resin right or the room temp isn’t warm enough or any number of other missteps, resin won’t set up hard. So while it may feel hard enough on the bottom of the glass or vase, it may be just soft enough to stick to the table. For me, I just felt the spray was the better option.

Yes, I use MinWax polyurethane spray. I tried the ModPodge for glass but that streaked too much. Here's the quick video where I showed both options. th-cam.com/video/0TcpCrV0LmY/w-d-xo.html

@@NancyONeill Thank you for such a fast response and YES I'm going to start painting glasses today. Thank you for the inspiration.

@@brendaallen7735 they make really nice gifts. I still hand wash mine just because I don't want to risk the dishwasher. They're too pretty to mess up. ;)

@@NancyONeill Absolutely hand wash. Thank you!

You can tell I'm not a drinker. lol Thanks for the info.

@@NancyONeill I'm of Slavic descent. We had one. I don't drink, either.

Thank you! 😊

Funny you should ask. I just took one out to use it last. night. I’ll post a new pic on my IG account (Art by Nancy O). Check it out.

@@NancyONeill thanks for the quick response, but sorry for my bad English, what does it mean "IG account" ? Is it on Facebook ?

@@manouchka58 sorry. IG is Instagram. See if this link works. Even if you don’t have an Instagram account, you should be able to see this post. instagram.com/p/CU70nSZJU0O/?

I don't haven't a video on mixing paints for this dip. But here's the basic recipe. 1 part acrylic paint to 2-3 parts Floetrol. Try to get the consistency close to what you see on this video. If it's too runny, it doesn't really work well so start with 1:2 ratio. If you add too much Floetrol, then your own option is to keep adding more paint until it thickens up. One more thing to note. Depending on the thickness of the acrylic paint brand you're using will make a difference how much Floetrol you need to get the right consistency. So sometimes the cheaper craft paints from Walmart, for example, are thinner than the thicker, more expensive ones in art supply stores. Best thing is to add a little floetrol at a time until you get the creamy texture. When you're dipping glass, it's best to be on the thicker side vs when you're pouring on a canvas. Hope that helps.