วีดีโอ

Hi @yavuzhanolmez5687, Wanneer het tapwater en stoom niet naar de uitloop hiervoor gaat maar naar de zetgroep dan werkt de magneetklep niet. Dat heeft niets te maken met de "vultuit" (dat ding waarvan ik de dop eraf haal in deze video). Deze "tuit" wordt alleen gebruikt wanneer het water voor koffie richting de zetgroep wordt gestuurd. Dat is dus pas na de magneetklep. De magneetklep is een driewegklep die in de machine zit en waar de "vultuit" met het kleine pijpje (en kleine rode ringetjes) in zit. En de magneetklep ziet er zo uit: cdn.partsnl.nl/parts/jpg3/92745600-k3.jpg De klep kan uit elkaar en gereinigd/ontkalkt worden. Je moet dan wel je machine openmaken. Het is een beetje ingewikkeld uitleggen. Naar een oplossing voor ditzelfde probleem werd me recent ook gevraagd en ik zal proberen deze week een video te maken hoe je de magneetklep reinigt en ontkalkt. Een andere mogelijkheid is dat de klep niet meer electrisch wordt aangestuurd. Want de klep staat normaal open naar de zetgroep en wordt met stroom omgezet naar de uitloop voor heet water/stoom. Het kan dan een elektronisch probleem op de printplaat zijn. En een defecte spoel, het elktrische deel van de magneetklep, kan ook deze problemen veroorzaken. Zoals je ziet zijn er meerdere oorzaken mogelijk voor het probleem dat jij hebt. Het zit in elk geval niet in de "vultuit".

@Internationalscore Hi, Yes that is normal. In the video there is no coffee in the brew group. And when the brew group opens, the water that is still in it falls into the drip tray.

@arjanvandehaar5049 Hoi Arjan, wanneer het heet water (en stoom) bij de zetgroep terecht komt zit waarschijnlijk (vanaf het verwarmingselement) de eerste magneetklep vast. Je kunt deze demonteren en uitelkaar halen om de onderdelen te ontkalken.

@@MarcSchiedam marc bedankt, maar geen idee hoe ik dat zou moeten doen, maar klinkt wel als het probleem

@@arjanvandehaar5049 Tja, om het zo te verhelpen moet je idd sleutelen en de machine openen. Zie je dat niet zitten dan kun je het volgende proberen: Haal het waterfilter uit de watertank en vul de watertank voor de helft met ontkalkingsmiddel (geen azijn want die smaak krijg je er moeilijk uit) kies voorgemalen koffie (kies "koffie" en daarna het knopje "koffiesterkte" een aantal seconden ingedrukt houden) maar voeg GEEN gemalen koffie toe en zet een beker onder de uitloop Herhaal dan de volgende stappen een aantal keer: Druk op start en trek 5 seconden nadat er water uit de uitloop komt de stekker eruit Laat de machine zo een kwartier staan, doe dan de stekker er weer in en zet de machine weer aan Gooi de beker leeg, zet hem weer onder de uitloop en herhaal weer vanaf "Druk op start en terk 5 sec....." Probeer na diverse keren ook een keer, met ontkalkingsmiddel in de watertank, heet water te tappen. Misschien dat het zo lukt de klep weer werkend te krijgen. Na de laatste keer gebruik met ontkalkingsmiddel de watertank leeggooien, omspoelen, vullen met water en de machine goed spoelen door heet water te tappen en weer een aantal keer koffie te zetten zonder gemalen koffie. Daarna de zetgroep onder de kraan spoelen en het waterfilter weer in de waterbak plaatsen. Waarschijnlijk moet daarna de machine nog ontlucht worden. Na het aanzetten gaat dan de startknop knipperen. Plaats een beker onder de wateruitloop en druk op start. De machine gaat dan ontluchten. Veel dingen zal je wel kennen maar ik probeer het zo duidelijk mogelijk uit te leggen. Voor het demonteren en ontkalken van de magneetklep ga ik proberen een video te maken wanneer ik daar de tijd voor heb. Succes.

Hi @vasanthpadmanaban9748 I really want to help you, but first I need to know what exactly the issue is.

@iar3270 Hola, si quieres un kit así te lo puedo proporcionar. En ese caso puedes enviarme un correo electrónico. Mi dirección de correo electrónico está en la información de este canal de TH-cam y en la etiqueta del set del vídeo. Entonces te ayudaré más. Hello, if you want such a kit I can provide it to you. In that case you can send me an email. My email address is in the information of this TH-cam channel and on the kit label on the video. Then I will help you further.

@lifer9883 You are welcome.

@lifer9883 Yes, no problem. To open the lid, turn 1/8 turn clockwise. You may have to push the lid up a little at the lugs because limescale will stick it in place. Descaling the parts when they are apart is also a good idea. The washers (2 pcs) are 6x2 mm (IDxCS) silicone O-rings. It doesn't matter that the color of the O-rings may be green, you can easily replace them with red ones. After replacing the O-rings, simply replace the lid, press and turn 1/8 turn counterclockwise.

@mladenm.3696 Hi, I can supply you with the set of 3 pcs (as shown in the video). Or if you are just looking for the O-ring and the ball, I can also supply that, but you can also find such a set of 2 pcs elsewhere, on eBay for example. When you buy on eBay, please note that it is a set with a plastic ball and NOT a glass ball. A glass ball will damage your pump. If you want me to help you, just send me an email. My email address is in this channel's information and on the label in the video. Cheers, Marc.

​@@MarcSchiedam Have really odd problem with Delonghi coffee machine, would like to get your opinion.thks

@mladenm.3696 Is the problem pump related? I am not a DeLonghi expert, but I will try to help you.

Hi @klickspeur4342 Wanneer er water lekt in de lekbak komt, komt dat in 99,9% van de gevallen door de ringetjes. Dat de machine gewoon koffie zet klopt, alleen de kopje worden minder vol en je koffie wordt sterker (want er stroomt minder water doorheen). Andere mogelijkheden zijn: 1. dat er een scheur zit in het kupje dat aan de zijkant van de zetgroep zit en over de tuit met de ringetjes schuift. 2. Er zit een O-ring (diep) in de zetgroep die de grijze zuigerstang afsluit, deze kan lekken. Maar dan "valt" het water meestal in de lekbak en loopt het daar niet onderdoor de machine uit. 3. Links achterin de machine zit ook een koppeling op de uitgang van het verwarmingselement dat kan scheuren. Dat komt ook regelmatig voor (meestal na ontkalken onstaat daar een verstopping en barst de koppeling). Maar dan komt het water * niet* in de lekbak maar loop direct onder de machine vandaan. Het meest logische is dus dat de ringetjes zijn versleten, al is een combinatie van bovenstaande problemen natuurlijk ook mogelijk. Ik zou in jouw geval de ringetjes vervangen en dan kijken of het opgelost is en daarna verder kijken. Want zoals ik al zei is het met de ringetjes in 99,9% van de gevallen opgelost. En nog een tip aan iedereen: smeer de ringetjes bij de weekelijkse reinigings-/spoelbeurt van de zetgroep met een piepklein beetje siliconenvet en ze gaan echt veel langer mee. De zachte siliconen ringen droog laten en ze zijn binnen no-time versleten. Succes met de reparatie. Marc.

@@MarcSchiedambedankt voor het uitgebreide antwoord! ik krijg de ringetjes (een set van 15 zoiets) dinsdag binnen. ben nieuwsgierig of het me lukt.😊

Graag gedaan. Het gaat je wel lukken hoor, het is niet zo ingewikkeld. Succes. 💪

ik heb de 2 ringetjes van het boilerpijpje en die grote van de brouwgroep vervangen. alleen het probleem is niet opgelost. ik wil nu de 2 kleine ringetjes aan het pijpje vervangen waarvoor het pijpje uit de machine moet. wel twijfel ik nu of dat het probleem kan zijn..

ook die 2 ringetjes van de boilerpin in t apparaat zijn vervangen (handige tip van de 2 tyraps!!) nu ga ik afwachten wat de machine doet qua lekken. de test met een grote gemalen koffie zonder koffie leverde dezelfde hoeveelheid water in de lekbak. ongeveer evenveel als van het spoelen bij het uitzetten. ik wacht het af..

You are welcome. 👍 I have replied to your email. Cheers.

Vielen Dank für Ihre Nachricht. Soweit ich weiß, kann eine Ceme-Pumpe nicht überholt werden. Daher kenne ich keinen Lieferanten für Ceme-Teile. Ich weiß auch nicht, ob die Teile mit denen der Ulka-Pumpe übereinstimmen. Und wenn man die Pumpe öffnen kann, kann ich die Teile für eine Ulka-Pumpe liefern, weiß aber nicht, ob sie in eine Ceme-Pumpe passen. Gruß, Marc.

Hi @toddjones2084, If you send me an email I will help you. My email address is in the information of this TH-cam channel and on the label in the video.

👍

You are welcome. Glad it's of some use to you.

Yes, that works exactly the same for the EP5FM.

Your store doesnt appear to be available for shipping to canada, big bummer. 👎​@@MarcSchiedam

I don't have a store but try to help people repair their machines. If you want me to help you with an overhaul set, send me an email and we will work something out. My mail address is in the info of my/this TH-cam channel. And also on the label in the video. I have previously helped someone from Canada and shipped to Toronto Ontario.

Hoi Ridouan, ik ga er even van uit dat het gaat om een apparaat uit dezelfde serie van Philips zoals in de video getoond. Het is op afstand moeilijk te zeggen wat er aan de hand is maar ik zal uitleggen hoe het mechanisme van de stoom werkt. Het apparaat stuurt vanaf een printplaat een stroom naar een relais dat een magneetklep opent die dan de stoom doorlaat dat vanaf het verwarmingselement via een andere magneetklep (voor de koffie) stroomt. Wanneer er stoom uit de stoombuis (waar de melk mee wordt verwarmd) komt dan blijft dus de magneetklep open staan. Ik denk dat je een "Latte go" apparaat hebt (omdat je het over capuccino hebt). Dan wordt de tijd dat de magneetklep geopend wordt automatisch geregeld. Zou nu de magneetklep vastzitten (bijvoorbeeld door kalk) en daardoor open blijven staan dan zou deze niet "herstellen" na een reset wanneer je de stekker eruit trekt. Dus ik denk (nogmaals, lastig te bepalen op afstand) dat dit een fout is in de aansturing. Dat zou dan op de printplaat moeten zitten. En een reparatie van de printplaat kan wel, maar dan moet je wel (veel) verstand van elektronica hebben. Ik kan je daarmee op afstand niet helpen, daarvoor is dat veel te ingewikkeld. Een printplaat is ook niet makkelijk te testen dus je hebt denk ik een lastig probleem. Een printplaat is wel te vervangen maar die is niet goedkoop. De hele leiding die van het verwarmingselement naar de uitgang van de stoom gaat zit links in het apparaat. De 2e magneetklep in de leiding is die voor de stoom. Nog even een waarschuwing: ik probeer met je mee te denken, het biedt je natuurlijk geen garanties. Ik kan immers, zonder het apparaat te hebben gezien, nooit precies bepalen wat er mis is. Dus het kopen van nieuwe onderdelen is geheel op eigen verantwoordelijkheid. Ondanks dat ik niet een pasklaar antwoord voor je heb hoop ik dat ik je hiermee toch een beetje heb kunnen helpen. Sorry dat ik niet meer voor je kan doen. Succes met de reparatie. Groeten, Marc.

Dank voor je snelle reactie Betreft inderdaad de latte go. Na de rest heeft die 1 x normaal gewerkt en daarna weer veel stoom. Het vervangen van de ringen heeft dus geen nut?

Wanneer je de ringetjes op de video bedoelt dan heeft dat inderdaad geen zin. Daar komt, als het goed is, alleen water langs bij het koffiezetten en is afgesloten wanneer stoom wordt geleverd.

The grease that comes with your machine is silicone grease. 😉

@@MarcSchiedam good to know :) thanks!

You are welcome.István.

@@MarcSchiedam replacing the sealing rings worked, thank you so much!

👍🍻

Hallo, Dan kan het zijn dat de klep die in de boiler pin zit vast zit óf dat er een verstopping in de zetgroep zit. De zetgroep goed schoonmaken en hoe je de klep uit de boiler pin haalt vind je in deze video: th-cam.com/video/k6_DcyPLt5s/w-d-xo.html Ik hoop dat je hier wat aan hebt. Met vriendelijke groet, Marc.

@@MarcSchiedam 🙏 dankjewel. Video is wel privé

Ja klopt. De video heb ik ooit speciaal voor iemand gemaakt, maar ik heb hem nu "openbaar" gezet.

Hi Raphael, how nice of you to respond. Good to hear that I was able to help you a little with my video. May you enjoy your coffee for a long time to come. Another tip: regularly lubricating the O-rings with a tiny amount of silicone grease will make them last much longer. Have a nice day. Cheers, Marc.

You're welcome Jonathan. Good job. 👍 And very nice that my video helped you solve the problem. Cheers.

Bedankt voor je reacie Barry. Ik heb het graag gedaan. 👍

De nada, disfruté haciéndolo. Gracias por tu mensaje. 👍 Saludos cordiales desde Schiedam, Holanda. 🍻 Marc.

👍 You are welcome Yavuz.

@sweethelen89 Hello LadyCherrysh, Security is bypassed in the video. It's not safe to do so I don't recommend doing it yourself. It was just so I could film the inside of the machine. But there is a safe way to check if your machine is leaking. You do this as follows: -turn on the machine and wait until it is warm and ready to make coffee. -clean the drip tray and waste container and dry thoroughly -Replace the drip tray and container and place a large cup under the coffee spout. -select a large coffee, set the coffee strength to pre-ground coffee (hold the strength button for a few seconds until it is set to pre-ground coffee, as I do in the video), of course you do not add pre-ground coffee, select the coffee /water quantity to maximum (3 lights) and press the start button. -wait until the water starts running, when the water runs count 25 seconds and then remove the drip tray (that is during the cycle), the machine stops making coffee. -check the drip tray to see if there is (more than a few drops) of water in it. -put the drip tray (and cup) back and press start, the machine will now complete the cycle. If there were more than a few drops of water in the drip tray, the machine is leaking and it is very likely that these rings are the culprit. If the drip tray is (almost) dry, you will have no problem there. This is all about water, but you can also do this test with coffee. Because when you do the same test with coffee and there is coffee in the drip tray, the brew group leaks at the top. I hope my explanation is clear for now and useful to you. I will make a TH-cam video of it in the near future. I wish you a nice day. Cheers, Marc.

Hello Tamer, I put the set together myself. To help people I put the set on eBay. www.ebay.nl/itm/186133144130 If you want the set and live outside Europe, please send me an email, the email address is in the information of this TH-cam channel. I wish you a nice day. Cheers, Marc.

That is a persistent story, but complete nonsense. Because what do you think will go wrong in those "few months"? Of course, once a pump has suffered damage due to overload or overheating, you cannot repair it with an overhaul kit. But if the coil is in good condition, after an overhaul you will have a pump that is just as good as a new one. And it lasts just as long, if not longer. Ulka notes that a pump's performance will decrease after 12 to 18 months. And I have machines in maintenance with a pump that is more than 15 years old that work as if they were new (I test them for pressure). In those 15 years, parts worth €19.50 (sales price) have been replaced. If you maintain these pumps properly, they will last a very long time. So I don't know what exactly your "experience" is worth, but it certainly doesn't match mine. But hey, if you want to buy a new pump every few years, it is something that everyone can decide for themselves, but it is certainly not cost-effective. Moreover, before you replace the pump after a few years, it has probably not worked 100% for a while.

@@MarcSchiedam sorry For not making it clear. Whether it’s cost-effective or not will depend on the price and quality of these parts. I purchased the overhaul kit for 4 usd and my ulka pump built up pressure again in just 2 months and then it failed. So I decided to replace with a new ulka pump for 10 usd and it has been working smoothly for 1 year and still in good condition. That is my experience and I take it as cost effective , hope it makes sense

That's what I thought. Your response " _It wouldn't last long after overhauling, just a few months._ " is not correct. I'm sorry that your project was not successful, but this could be for various reasons. With all due respect, it is impossible for you to say on that basis that overhauling a pump wouldn't last. My experience is based on more than 200 overhauled pumps. For my curiosity: Do you have a link to the overhaul kit you used? And which part of the pump "failed" after two months?

@leandrorodriguez1600 Thank you for your response Leandro. And you're very welcome. I'm glad to hear that my video helped you. That was exactly the intention. Nice that it works that way. Even all the way in Argentina. 😉 Cheers, Marc.

@@MarcSchiedam funny thing: Previously, I took the machine to an official Phillips service for repairing. They told me that I have to buy a brand new coffee group mecanism!!! Then, I saw your video and fixed it by my self.

@leandrorodriguez1600 " _They told me that I have to buy a brand new coffee group mechanism!!!_ " That's not funny, that's criminal! And a new brew group wouldn't even solve the problem. Fortunately, you did not buy a new brew group and solve the problem yourself. Well done! 🙌 Cheers, Marc.

👍

Hi Roberto, I don't have such a machine in maintenance, so I can't make a video of it in the short term. I can probably get hold of the machine and make a video of it, but that will be long term. So that won't help you now. Cheers, Marc.

Hi Wladimir, It is very difficult to observe the wear of the O-ring. I would still try to see what happens when you replace the O-ring. You can try an O-ring with size 5x2mm (IDxCS) for this. This is slightly thicker than the original ring and should work well. If the piston does not move and remains stationary, there must be a blockage. This can be in the machine, but it can also be one of the valves of the pump. If you have already replaced the O-ring and the pump does not want to move, this may be because the rubber of the O-ring provides too much friction. A tiny bit of silicone grease will help to start the pump dry. Once the pump is filled with water, this problem will not occur. According to Ulka, the pump has a lifespan of 12 to 18 months (depending on use) before performance decreases. To ensure that the pump in the machines I maintain continues to function 100%, I replace the O-ring every year. Good luck with the repair. Cheers, Marc.

@@MarcSchiedam Hi , Marc! The service - life is only 1.5 years... this is just terrible..., I thought 3-5 years... ) It requires food-grade silicone , and I have already ordered it. Thanks! Regards

@WladimirZhel I agree with you Wladimir. When Ulka reported an expected lifespan of 12 - 18 months, I was shocked too. Cheers, Marc.

Bedankt. Leuk dat je er wat aan had. 😃

Hi Tamas, This sounds a lot like the mushroom-shaped rubber valve gets stuck every now and then. Then the pump makes noise and tries to pump but there is no water flow. This often starts after the machine has been turned off for a few hours and continues to happen more and more often until it remains stuck. You can then take the pump apart and loosen the valve, but this is usually a temporary solution and the problem will return. But if the pump remains completely silent, the problem may be electrical. It is of course difficult to diagnose the problem with 100% certainty from a distance, but I think, based on your story, that with an overhaul set (including the mushroom shaped valve) your pump will work again. But, of course, I can't guarantee it. Cheers, Marc.

Wow Leo 16 years is an incredibly long time. Was that with the original parts? Ulka expects a decline in performance after 12 to 18 months, so 16 years without maintenance is almost unbelievable. It proves once again that these pumps can last a very long time. Especially when you maintain them properly. I do have old pumps in machines that I maintain, but the O-ring is replaced every year and the valves every four years or sooner if necessary. I think the ball is made of this plastic because it meets the desired conditions. Namely that it is reasonably durable, that it is tough (it does not break and no shards break off), it is food safe because it is not porous and, most importantly, it is lightweight (40 milligrams). The ball "hits" the axle 50 times per second (in the USA 60 times per second). There is a pyrex glass ball offered on the internet, but it is more than twice as heavy and it is so hard that it will damage the piston shaft and the spring. So with a glass valve your pump will never last 16 years or come close to that age. So if it is necessary to replace the plastic ball every few years to ensure that your pump lasts that long, it is not such a bad design in my opinion. 😉 Cheers, Marc.

Hi, I can help you. Please contact me via email, my email address is in the information for this TH-cam channel. Hola, puedo ayudarte. Por favor contácteme por correo electrónico, mi dirección de correo electrónico se encuentra en la información de este canal de TH-cam.

👍

The silicone grease is to get the rubber valve out of the spring more easily, not to lubricate the pump. It's always difficult to give advice from a distance and I don't know which machine it is, but I'll share my thoughts on this. Just a warning in front: I don't know you so don't know what you can and can't do so only do work for which you have the competence or don't do it or ask for help. Only work on the machine when unplugged and allow the machine to cool down before working on it. Everything you do is at your own risk. It is a well-known problem that after descaling, by flushing the entire machine, blockages occur. Most often in (or just after) the thermoblock or boiler (depending on the machine). Descaling releases pieces of limescale that cause the clogging. I would advise you to disconnect the pipes to and from the thermoblock (or boiler) and descale this part. I ALWAYS descale a thermoblock separately. By the way, I wouldn't do it with vinegar because it only works moderately and leaves a taste in your machine that is difficult to get out. I use citric acid or (sometimes prescribed by the manufacturer) lactic acid. These products work faster and do not leave any taste after rinsing with water a few times. Using vinegar is not wrong, it just doesn't work as well and doesn't taste good. Parts do not wear out due to vinegar. Assuming there is no over pressure valve in the machine, the following: when there is a blockage in the machine, and your pump is working properly, the pump will come to a halt because there is a huge pressure in the pipes and there can be no water flow. If the pump were not functioning properly, it would not be able to build up such high pressure and therefore continue pumping because the O-ring and/or valves are leaking. So the way I read your story, I first think of a blockage somewhere than worn parts of the pump. But it could be a stuck valve of the pump (the rubber mushroom-shaped valve). It would be very coincidental that this happens right after a decalcification, but it is possible and that problem gives the same characteristics. You can easily check this by detaching the hose at the outlet of the pump (or at the other end of the hose at entrance of the next element after the pump) and checking whether water comes out of it when you test the machine. Before testing take a picture of the wiring and disconnect the wires from the thermoblock (or boiler) if there is no water flowing through it. To be on the safe side, because a thermoblock does have a thermal protection, but without water it quickly gets very hot. A heating element in a boiler should never be heated when the boiler is not filled with water at all. I once helped someone on a forum to find a blockage in a Philips machine, maybe that will help you. You can find it here: www.home-barista.com/repairs/ulka-ep5-pump-replacement-t87226.html Some more comments about your post: -When a pump comes to a standstill, turn off the machine immediately to prevent damage to the pump. A pump quickly gets too hot. -Steam is probably created because there is stagnant water (no flow) in the thermoblock that will boil. -When you disassemble the pump, the pressure is off and most of the water is out of the system, so it can take up to 15 seconds for the system is filled up again, the maximum pressure is reached and therefore the pump comes to a stop. -With "humming sound" I mean the coil is working so the pump "wants" to work but is not building up pressure. If there is an electric problem, the pump is silent and is beyond repair. These are my thoughts on this with the information I got from your post. But again, it's hard to give advice from a distance, so I could be completely wrong. Figuring out where things are going wrong step by step is the best way to figure out what the problem is. Good luck with it. Cheers, Marc.

Hello Marc, I greatly appreciate and appreciate your comments. I tell you that I was finally able to repair the machine by changing the oring with a new one of the same size. Evidently the vinegar and the passage of 2 years of use caused the original oring to wear out as it seemed somewhat sticky to the touch, very different from the completely smooth and shiny new one. I understand that what happened was several things at the same time: using pure vinegar for several nights caused clogs in the boiler and degraded the oring. The white ball and black mushroom-shaped rubber retainer are in good condition. Once I was able to change the oring, I found that the pump revived, before it only vibrated but the piston did not move, I understand that with the new oring it had sufficient pressure again. But the boiler was clogged in the inlet and outlet ducts, as well as the valve/relay that allows water to pass through to generate pressure for the milk. I uncovered the inlet and outlet ducts, blew hard to unclog them. The water began to flow. Then I proceeded to descale, but this time, as many recommend in these parts, with the vinegar diluted by half with water. After several hours, everything returned almost to normal, let's say 90%. I still need to do a deep descaling with citric acid, which I will do in the next few days, but I already have coffee with milk again for breakfast. Thank you very much for your video, it was very useful for me to understand the problem of the worn oring!!@@MarcSchiedam

Hi Marcelo, Thank you very much for your response and sharing the results of your work. I appreciate that a lot. 👍 Problems are often a combination of different things. In the event of a (partial) blockage, the pump has to work harder, the water flow is slower, more lime enters the system, which causes more blockage, etc. The O-ring must have been stuck in your pump to make it stop. If the O-ring only leaks, the pump will continue to run because the water is "pumped" back and forth in the pump. So you see, sometimes you encounter surprising problems. By the way, I replace the O-ring of the pump on the machines I maintain every year during major cleaning and descaling. But good to hear that it turned out well for you. May you enjoy your coffee for a long time. Cheers, Marc.

That's food grade silicone grease.

Здравствуйте Сергей Назаров! Я продаю наборы в Европе через eBay, но, к сожалению, не знаю адреса в России. Извини.

Спасибо понял .

Olá Marcio, Eu não falo português, então isso é feito através do Google Translate, então peço desculpas se minha mensagem não estiver totalmente correta. Tudo o que você pede (também via eBay) é possível. Mas para discutir isso pode ser mais útil se você entrar em contato comigo por e-mail. Meu endereço de e-mail está incluído nas informações do meu canal no TH-cam. Obrigado Atenciosamente, Marc.

@@MarcSchiedam obrigado pela resposta. Ja enviei mensagem pelo ebay.

Hi Marc, thanks for your videos! I would like to buy some repair kits. Can’t find your email on your TH-cam info. I understand you have an eBay account?

Thank you my friend. 😃 Cheers, Marc.

Hi Lorenzo, There are 2 common problems that can cause this. The rings that I replace in the video may be leaking and/or the connector at the output of the thermoblock can be broken. If the connector breaks, it is often after a descaling program. To be sure whether the connector is leaking, it is best to open the machine. It's on the left side of the machine. I don't have a video of that (yet), but someone has posted a video link below to a video with the same problem as you have. The man in the video struggles with the lid but it can be removed. The link: th-cam.com/video/wS-FOZapsKk/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=DavidLogasi

Yes, this makes it easier to remove the rubber from the spring.

By rinsing do you mean that you make coffee with pre-ground coffee without adding the coffee? Because then the machine does the same thing, except that after making coffee, when opening the brew group, the water is thrown out of the brew group, but that is normal. Otherwise I wouldn't know what is wrong because the machine generates the same pressure on the system with or without coffee.

@@MarcSchiedam there is a “rinsing” cycle when power off and power on

Yes, after rinsing, the machine also throws the residual water out of the brewing group. That is normal. To test whether the machine is leaking during coffee brewing, you can do the following: -Turn on the machine and wait until it is ready to brew coffee -Then remove the drip tray and waste container, empty it, dry it and put it back in the machine -Then make a (largest) coffee with pre-ground coffee without adding the coffee (as I did in the video) and remove the drip tray after 15 seconds (before the cycle is finished). If it is still dry, the machine will not leak during coffee making, but if there is water in the drip tray, the machine is leaking and it is most likely the O-rings.

Bedankt voor je leuke reactie Timon. 👍 Dat waardeer ik zeer.

Here you go. to remove the boiler pin from the machine: th-cam.com/video/OLeCSBsDwuY/w-d-xo.html to remove the steam valve from the boiler pin: th-cam.com/video/k6_DcyPLt5s/w-d-xo.html

Hallo Wendy, ja, máár, hoewel ik je graag zou helpen heb ik op dit moment echt geen tijd voor onderhoud en/of grote reparaties. Wanneer het iets kleins is kan ik misschien nog iets voor je doen maar dan zal je meer informatie over je machine en de problemen moet geven. Dat kan je het beste niet hier doen maar via email. (adres staat in de informatie van dit kanaal). Prettige avond, Marc.

🙂

Hi piotr @piotrkowalcyk2363, Because I get this question often, I put the set on eBay: www.ebay.nl/itm/186133144130 If you want to order parts separately, you can send me an email and we will see if we can arrange something. My email address is marc.schiedamATgmailDOTcom (this is also mentioned in the details of my TH-cam channel). Cheers, Marc.