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I honestly don't remember, I may of said it in the video. The primer was epoxy primer, and you can see it didn't crinkle it up, it just sort of liquefied it. The base cost and clear was probably acrylic urethane paint. I will try to read the cans if I still have them.

You're welcome, and thank you for watching.

I find 1/16th rods do be almost useless, but also I'm not that good of a welder. And my biggest complaint is they seem to just burn off so fast that I can't do anything with them, lol.

It probably depends on what type of spray paint. I'm not sure what types.

yes, and I have a diablo steel demon blade the blade they come with makes really ugly cuts on stainless. The steel demon blade has more teeth and does an ok job, but it's not perfect. They are like 95 dollar blades.

@@davidcraft4909 That’s what I’m looking 👀 for something like that , the funny thing is ! that’s how I came across your channel Sweet I’m new to welding just a rookie Just want something that’s works and by the looks of it 😀 It works good 👍

@@ElJuicePerformance If you do get one, only cut stainless with it, don't waste the expensive blade on regular steel. I have cut about 50 to 100 cuts on ss tubing and I already notice that the blade doesn't cut as smooth as it was when it was brand new.

@@davidcraft4909 I just subscribed I’ll keep you posted!! I’ll start saving up for one of the evolution s

Honestly, I don't have anything to compare it to. This is the only tool I have ever cut stainless tubing. In my opinion it works ok or good enough for me.

I've had this truck in the garage for years, and I'm going to start driving it soon.

thanks for watching.

Yeah, I know. I was outside, ventilation is atleast half way good. I also use a respirator most of the time. Well, after making that video and trying some abrasives that don't contain silica or atleast not as much as sand. I do not recommend using play sand. Not just because of silica, but also it clumps and actually sucks compared to slag and glass beads. Thanks for watching and that is good advice.

@davidcraft4909 I 'm going to try sand, but it needs to stay completely dry. I'm making a little oven for my welding rods, so I will use it to keep the sand dry. I also intend to process my own to get uniform sized grains. I prefer aluminum oxide, which works better and doesn't cause silicosis. I will be using regular silica sand in vapor blasting. It does a much cleaner job and does not create dangerous dust.

@@jpbonhomme5051 Honestly, the sand will stay dry enough, I had a bucket in my garage with no lid on it for over a year and it stayed dry. Now that I'm thinking about it, the first time I used it, I might have not had my in-line water separator hooked up. The second time I used it in a video and it was working a lot better, but I had changed the nozzle, hooked up my air dryer thing, I also have a shorter more rigid pickup hose.

The manual says oil change after 25 hours for the break in period. Then every 50 hours.

Yeah, trying to make everything perfect can really stop people from making progress. I don't cut corners on the rotating assembly, but on paint, that 305 should be happy it even got paint.

Thanks for watching

I would suggest getting a cheap tig welder. The process is slower but tig can weld anything. It's actually very easy to learn, but it's really hard to make consistent pretty beads.

@@davidcraft4909 I actually just got a cheap flux core mig the other day. Now i just need to find a place to weld at, lol

Yes, mig would be a good choice, muffler shops weld exhaust tube all day with mig. Stick on the other hand is not easy

What type of generator weldor are you talking about?

Thanks for watching

Well, mainly to fit the carburetor. I only run holleys or edelbrock, and they are both sqaure bores, aka 4150 flange. I wouldn't expect to gain much power from an intake, but it's supposed to be proven to add a little bit. Also, they look better. As far as reliability, I've been around lots of engines that have been running aluminum edelbrock intakes with no issues at all. The only thing that an iron intake can handle better, is if you run straight water with no anti freeze. The aluminum will rot faster than iron. You will have a hard time finding a good stock iron intake that fits a edelbrock. Most are for spread bore q jets.

Well, all the intakes have a recommended rpm range. I would just follow that. But any of them would work.

@scoobydooby6180 I would have to see it to give the best advice. But if it's broken flush, then drill a small hole in it, and use a bolt extractor. Or weld a nut to it if possible. Or drill it out and use a heli-coil.

@@davidcraft4909 for sure, thank you. I think it won’t matter much in the end because I’m deciding to go through with switch the intake manifold so that’ll just fix the issue right then and there

thanks for watching.

Yeah, well I lost my job and the rest of the build is going to take some time, lol. Thanks for watching and commenting,

@@jonfranklin9361 Thank You!!!

@acharyajamesoermannspeaker6563 if all you do is drain the radiator, you will spill coolant into your engine.

I have no idea, but I still have the same light in my garage, and it stays on a lot. When it stops working I will just buy a new one.

Yeah, stick welding 16ga is not easy

@davidcraft4909 I've been a welder since 1997, welded many types, but I'm about to try aluminum stick for the first time on a golf cart frame. So we all can learn new things.

@@TrashPanda71 yeah, that's for sure. I'm definitely still learning every day. Even on stuff that I'm supposed to know about, lol

Honestly, I'm not going to lie. I almost don't like it during more casual easy trail riding. You will most likely be keeping both hands on the wheel. Because as long as you have it in 4wd there will always be some sort of tension between the front and back. Mine is full time locked in the back and I have no idea if those effects it. But I'm just saying you will be fighting the steering wheel a lot more over easy light off-roading if in 4wd, but it will definitely go through more stuff, anyway thanks for watching. It's really not that bad, but very noticeable.

@@user-ds9zd8eq6u it's an 82, but the original engine was a diesel. I'm not sure what this 305 came out of.

I do normally put the #1 in the correct position. And, I usually watch the 2 valves on #1 stay closed as it approaches TDC on the balancer. It was just a lot faster to pull the cap and do the method where you watch it blow out a paper towel ball. I also usually use a timing light. This engine is missing the timing tab. I'm not done with it, there is a lot of things to go through.

Well, this truck needs lots of work, but I will eventually get it going. Thanks for watching and commenting.

I will eventually get to the timing. My goal was to just get it started that day. If you move all the wires over one space, then having the distributor in that position it could be way advanced. Well thanks for watching.

@wacoldestv1704 I don't know if I told the whole story in the vid. But mine was losing a quart or more on the way to work. About 15 miles away. Thanks for watching.

Glad it was helpful!

There's a channel called alexltdlx where a guy kinda proves they work. That guy probably has the most in-depth information about electric turbos.

Yeah, it's the only way to learn how to do something. Just try and if it messes up, oh well who cares just fix the mistakes on the next one.

I have no idea why it would do that, you would have to take it apart. I'm apologize for the late response.

Thanks

That is a good idea, but I think it is kind of obvious if you have overheating issues because of other tell tail signs. For example, if your engine temp gauge shows more than your thermostat temp, or if the radiator cap blows steam out. thanks for watching.

I don't understand what you mean by that. but thanks for watching and commenting.

yeah practice does make perfect, and I need a lot of practice if I ever want to stick weld 16ga tubing. thanks for watching and commenting.

thanks for watching.

I apologize for the late response, but if you have water in a cylinder it's more than likely a head gasket or cracked head. That's just my opinion. Water only flows across the very front of the intake. I would say it's not very likely that it's coming from the intake.

I agree, if it was aluminum, I wouldn't paint it. I'm just messing around with the idea of painting heads and intakes to make them look like they are aluminum.

I don't know it had the string already in it.

Great tip!

There is a line for the vacuum advance, pcv, and brake booster if it has one. Also if it has a th400 there is a line to the modulator. As far as what would make it stall in drive. The carbs idle circuits might be clogged, or maybe you have a vacuum leak.

@@davidcraft4909 rite on brother thank you. Ya it seems to idle fine when I go to start it up but once I change gears it’ll stall…(shut off). runs good on the freeway but whn i come to a stop light it stalls.. can’t tell if its a vacuum leak or just bad carb.

To add to that. Ignition timing cab also affect it. Also assuming that car is not your daily. If it sits for months at a time the gas can get water in it and cause idling problems. If it randomly pops when you start it up that's probably water in the gas.

Well, I never use primer, but I would say that if someone did and used a better-quality paint. It would probably last longer and not fade as quick. I'm not building a show car, so I'm good with no primer.

I don't understand what you are trying to say.

Thanks for watching

Right on!