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@@darrenkaukesa5291 Hi Darren, it would be best to start with scanning the car for fault codes. As your car is a petrol this video isn’t really relevant. Check for any air leaks, split vacuum pipes or a blocked air filter. Hope this helps

@@cransaftvalve734 in the past only the whole turbocharger was available, but someone may do the valve on its own now.

@@brownsgarageltd Yes, I think I saw that it is for sale. Thanks.

@@IshanSingh-wh7gk Hi and thanks for watching my video. As P0299 is an under boost fault it’s worth getting a smoke test done to check for any leaks on the boost/intake system. A telltale sign of slight leaking is the pipe or joint may be slightly oily. Also on this engine take the pipe off as shown in the video and make sure the flap isn’t loose, so when it changes position it’s sealing correctly. Hope this helps. Regards Charlie

​@@brownsgarageltd Hi Mate, I got my car checked yesterday, looks like a new turbo is needed. The garage said the diverter valve is broken and the circular valve is just laying there and the stick thingy that it's attached to is gone, so can that valve be repaired or it would need a new turbo itself. In your exp how much it would cost?

@@brownsgarageltd Brother I really need you expert advice.

@@IshanSingh-wh7gk Hi, yes that does sound correct the diverter valve comes with a new turbo. It may be possible to get the turbo repaired or reconditioned but it would still need removing from the car meaning the labour cost is the same. Hope this helps Many thanks Charlie

@@Autofanas777 Hi 👋 thanks for watching my video. I would start with checking the fuse and make sure the drivers door registers when it’s open and closed too and the seat back is properly latched. If you have access to a diagnostic tester there may be a fault code stored which will help narrow down the fault. Could be a failed extender, hope this helps Charlie

@@brownsgarageltdhi thanks for reply.U wont believe but today i was suprised because seatbelt extender worked again!!! now im so confused and i think theres something wrong with maybe wires or conmection.

@@Autofanas777 That is a possibility, let’s hope it keeps working 😎

Just ordered mine of eBay

Hi There might be some variation with exact model , right feeder motor A2078600282 Left feeder motor A2078600182. Hope this helps

Hi On top of the valve is a small hole, check no air leaking from this hole. If air is found then the diaphragm is split and the valve is faulty.

From my memory the car was around a 2014 done roughly 60k miles.

Hi Brian Yes I’m pretty sure when you disconnect the faulty rear door module, the Lin bus stops being pulled down and the front door should work. Hope this helps Charlie

Hi It’s worth starting with a code scan so you have some fault codes. Sometimes if the DPF is still blocked it can give a temperature sensor fault as not enough gas is passing meaning the temperature is too low. For the time it takes it’s worth checking the turbo valve in the video . Many thanks Charlie

@@brownsgarageltd thank you

Hiya mate did you sort this? Mine is doing the exact same thing as this but dpf is all fine

Hi Thanks for watching the video, if the part is correct, fits well and works then it should be fine. Maybe use a bit of thread lock on the bolt.

Can I get a link to where you bought the part

Hi Firstly it’s worth checking the boost pressure sensor for fouling, clean and refit. Smoke test is a good idea to check for any boost leaks too

Hi With your issue changing when the door is open, first place I would look is the door aperture wiring loom. If you have a broken wire in that loom it Will give you those symptoms. Hope this helps

@brownsautomotive7102 thanks.. when i posted that message, the next day i took the door card off, thinking it will be the door lock latch actuator based on another video i saw. But i also remember you saying if the door card is off just check the plugs and the door module for any dirt etc.. and boom... the plug was loose (left side). All sorted now.

Hi By testing the system and knowing how the LIN bus system works, corrupted signal was still present with the front switch removed meaning it has to be further back on the RH Lin bus circuit. Hope this helps

@@brownsgarageltd In your video you not shown that procedure that's why I confused.

Did you ever find out

Hi The other part will be at the intercooler, not too bad a job to get out. The flap changes the airflow between the small and the larger turbo, it will log a fault code and may run in a safe (limp) mode

did you solve the problem?ty

Hi Yes most of them do have a twin turbocharger set up, I’m not aware of the same issue with these but it’s possible. Worth starting with basics first like a high pressure smoke test and maybe worth cleaning the boost sensor. Hope this helps you. Many thanks

@@brownsgarageltd cheers for the reply. The 1.5 is a single turbo. Ive had another look at IDS and the actual MAP is lower than the MAP demand, which I'm assuming is the reason for the P0299 code. Question now is what's causing lower pressure

Thanks 🙏 That’s a really difficult problem to help with, but I will try ! Firstly can you hear it when stationary, if no this rules out only engine related rotational noises. A boost leak can make an unusual noise but normally worse under load. And brackets or pipes that are loose, poorly routed or catching the body or subframe can cause random low speed noises. I’ve had plastic air ducting causing an annoying noise in the past. Lastly does the noise remain or change if you press the clutch or put the car in neutral so rolling. If it remains then it could be a wheel bearing or bad tyre 🛞 Hope this helps

@@brownsgarageltd hi thanks for you're reply all good info. I've not depressed the clutched when this happens but I'll try this 4 sure . It's not consistent with the revs etc so if I went faster the noise don't necessarily get louder or worst . One thing that was done some time ago was a mechanic pit a cable tie around intake port they'd said back then it vibrated. The cable tie is not there atm and wondering if its the cause . I guess I could try ruling it out by replicating with a new cable tie I have plenty there . I felt the air duct recently I guess it's not as rigid as I'd prefer but not overly loose either. I guess I could try the cable tie just maybe it's resonating slightly. I'll get back to you on this . Thank you . I knew it not be the actual filter itself I put a new filter in yesterday old 1 was a bit grubby .

@@brownsgarageltd btw I was thinking a solenoid as they can make noises .? Just a thought

@@kevinhancock4064 yes they can make a noise so worth checking. Maybe try taking a video of the noise?

@@brownsgarageltd problem is noose only wjrn moving I'd have to get Mrs to maybe video it if microphone picks it up . I have a mechanics stethoscope but that's pointless with this as it don't make a noise when stationary . Mine has 2 solenoids 1 is 34+ vat other is 80ish+vat

Firstly I would check the seat belt warning is working ok, sometimes the buckle or wiring under the seat can cause a problem, I have changed passenger seat occupancy pads too but this fault normally puts the airbag light on. Hope this helps

@@brownsgarageltd hey, thank you so much for your reply. i do not know where to start diagnosis. because its strange. I suspect the occupancy pads too, but theres is no airbag light. i do not think buckle could cause that to happen though.

Hi mate. Did you fix it? Thanks

@@djextreme77 nope, i did not manage to fix it.

@@brownsgarageltd i have used my XENTRY and scan. under the Rear Control Module SG-FOND-> left extender it shows "POWER CONSUMPTION OF COMPONENT A10" is 0.000A whereas my right extender shows 92mA

Try having a look at the changeover valve, make sure the flap is in place and seating properly. If that looks ok, try and find someone to check for any stored fault codes and start with a smoke test to check for any intake leaks. Hope this helps

@@brownsgarageltd where is the changeover valve located? Also could it be dpf?

@@brownsgarageltd Your fuckin Champion Thanks

How much were the parts?

@@michaelcurley8764 £85

@@andrewharris3380 Thanks Andrew. I got complete turbo replaced under goodwill from Mazda. Only had 85k Miles with fsh. Can you post the part number just in case it happens again?

@akita 1973 not with mine

Hi Andrew, Can I ask where you got the valve from? I have the exact same problem with my cx-5

Nice feedback thanks, glad the video helped you sort your car 👍

Hi Yes that is the same problem and the video I posted, the changeover valve that fails is part of the complete turbocharger. However you may be able to get a turbo company to repair yours, worth a couple of calls. Hope this helps Charlie

@@brownsgarageltd thanks Charlie!

Hi The first thing to do is run a few smoke tests starting with the vacuum system, hopefully this will show the leak. Many thanks Charlie

Hi Yes you can do that with a good diagnostic tool or you can do it manually. With each window hold the button down until the window reaches the lower stop, hold for a second then do the same going up. If successful the one touch opening will work. Hope this helps Charlie

Thank you 😊

Hi Dave Try checking for any air leaks from the pcv or inlet system. The inlet valves can get coked up so may be worth looking at. Hope this helps

@@brownsgarageltd thank you. It's just random. Sometimes it does it. Sometimes all good

No, the disc is needed to to block the pipe and divert the air.

Hi Have a look at the teeth on the extending arm to make sure none are missing. Try moving it around in case it’s jammed and push it back in with light to medium pressure so you don’t break anything. Failing that either take it back to whoever fitted it or if you fitted yourself you may need to take it to bits to see what’s happened. Hope this helps Charlie

@@brownsgarageltd thanx for the reply I gently pushed it back in flush and from now on will click my seat belt in before turning the ignition the extender good but so temperamental

@@brownsgarageltd my e class coupe is a 2013 do you know which fuse is for the seat belt extender just want to try pulling it for 30 secs tried number 15 but the pass side one still works si I'm thinking it's a different fuse ?

Hi Mark The easiest way to be 100% is to take the door card off and follow the wires from the seat switch pack and see if they run to the door module. Sometimes the switch packs are interchangeable so you could try the drivers side in the passenger. Hope this helps

Hi It’s worth checking the pcv and diverter valve, depending what engine you have. The valves can stick too, or you could have an air or vacuum leak. Take it to a specialist would be my advise.

@@brownsgarageltd it has a rough idle and only loses power when I dip the clutch or slow down at junctions

​@AgentRidge did u get it fixed? My car has really lumpy idle

@@cruiseedwards4657 my car ended up going into scrap

I found the problem it was air mass sensor

In your case you would need to start from the beginning with diagnosis, check for any fault codes, smoke test for any air leaks, make sure the delete you fitted is still secure.

@@brownsgarageltd got it! does it change anything if it’s smoking white pretty bad at idle?

@@giovannimora9134 if that is accompanied by a loss of coolant then you have a issue with coolant leaking internally. Normally the smoke would be there when u Rev too.! Your idle issue could be sticking valves, to check this you would need to do a cylinder leakage test. Or remove the inlet manifold and have a look for carbon build up

@@brownsgarageltd thank you!!! Really appreciate it

Hi Nick I’ll look up the part number for you tomorrow when I’m at work. Ping me another comment if I forget 😂 Regards Charlie

@@brownsgarageltd Thats really help full. many thanks Nick

@@brownsgarageltd Morning, just a quick reminder regarding the part number . regards Nick

@@nicksjamesnj hi mate Sorry for the delay, I’ve finally got the current warranty part number from a friend at Mazda for you. Part number SHY1 1370 ZB The last letter B will change as time goes on and they supersede the part. Comes complete with a brand new turbo and all the gaskets. Hope this helps Charlie

Hi May be worth taking a few bits off to check the changeover valve isn’t loose or fallen off ! This would normally give a fault code but still worth checking. Also check all the vacuum pipes and any other pipes for leaks, smoke test if you can. Hope this helps Charlie

Did you find wat the problem was

Same problem as you. Lack of power under 2500, suddenly kicks in when closing to 3000, second turbo taking over. But no fault codes. Did you ever find out what it was?

@@skrik8did you ever fix it

It’s magic !! 😂

Yes no problem, the earliest I have is Monday the 7th June onwards. I would need the registration number to order the parts. It’s probably better to message the details. Many thanks Charlie

@@brownsgarageltd 12th its a Saturday if ok with you .

My email Andrewbyrne7724@gmail.com

@@brownsgarageltd my email Andrewbyrne7724@gmail.com

@@andrewbyrne6505 Saturday the 12th is good for me. I’ll email you tomorrow

Hi Rafal Try checking the differential pressure reading, or exhaust pressure before the DPF. This should give you an idea if it’s blocked. Secondly if the valve repair is not operating as the original, so shutting off one port properly you will get a low map sensor reading. From memory these have 2 EGR valves, smoke test these if possible and make sure they are not stuck slightly open, or dirty as this will also cause low air pressure. You are right the pin will not block the intercooler. Hope this helps Charlie

@@brownsgarageltd thanks for your message. i think that this valve is ok. i don’t know how to check this. i have used original valve so i could replace it and see if this change anything but i don’t really want to spend so many hours to take it out and put it back again . and if that not gone change anything i will have to put that modified one back again. i will not take a risk to damage another turbo. this valve is very risky. about egr. a whole air intake was cleaned in mazda. everything. shame that i can’t show the pictures. what about dpf. do you know what reading i should have or what readings mean that is blocked . and the last thing because you didn’t mention nothing about boost solenoid. regards