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No worries the documentation only shows sample. All model years and versions are in the SW.

As soon as the chain gets loose I'll make that video.

Thank you mate. I appreciate it.

You're welcome pal...

Fully agree...

Hi. The benefit is that this slave cylinder has got more linear characteristics so the clutch operation is smoother. As your issue: what does "temperature 4 bar" mean? Bar is for pressure. The root cause of your clutch behaviour needs service. Could be old clutch fluid with lot of moisture and air trapped, clutch master or slave cylinder worn out etc. Cannot tell without check of the system. Clutch lever doesn't need to be replaced for sure: it's just a piece of metal.

Hello. As soon as the chain gets loose I will of course make that video. 🙂

What did you see on the packaging?

Sorry, I meant on the bottle labels. Is yours fuel resistant or it doesn't matter? ​@@DesmoHead

@@SundeeStudios I used two types of resins. CX-80 was for filling the bottom part of the holes and it is fuel resistant. The top cover was a low viscosity resin to create a nice flat cover surface. It is not fuel resistant, at least the datasheet dies not tell anything about it.

@@DesmoHead Understood, very nicely done. Thank you for the answer and the video!

Hello. It's MelcoDiag from the web.

I haven't serviced 1260 Enduro yet but I suppose it's needed to remove the fuel tank to get access. Radiator seems to be in the same or very similar position as for 1260S. Fuel tank might cover it around since it's got bigger capacity.

@@DesmoHead I managed it by getting someone to pour it while I held a the flexi hose in the top of the radiator, it was very awkward but I wasn't draining a 30 litre tank lol. Your video helped none the less 👍

Hello. I use a 76mm 8-sided socket.

​@@DesmoHeadthanks for the help and quick reply, as im on here if you've ever adjusted your chain, do you know the torque setting for the two small bolts you loosen on the wheel hub? 😊

@@geofflove7692 Depends on your process. Should you remove the bolts you need to use B-grease to lubricate the threads. Tightening torque is 35Nm for the hub bolts. As for the splash guard it needs Threadlock-2 and 10Nm. Tolerances are +-10%.

Many thanks your a 🌟

Thank you mate. I appreciate your feedback.

Hi...There is not. That's why I don't like using it for downshift.

Hello. No problem, however, my services are usually more frequent than annual. But the "rest of them" can be in another video. Good idea. I will prepare it.

I know. Not my dog. Here around me there are only idiots keep dogs with no clue how to treat them so all the dogs have also become idiots. Not their faults but yes very annoying.

Hello. Sure: www.obdstarstore.com/wholesale/obdstar-iscan-ducati-motorcycle-diagnostic-scanner.html?Obdstar+%E6%90%9C%E7%B4%A2164%25+1205+113%25+1225&hsa_acc=1926192066&hsa_cam=628451916&hsa_grp=128528120090&hsa_ad=582153480608&hsa_src=g&hsa_tgt=kwd-1645271648295&hsa_kw=obdstar%20ducati&hsa_mt=b&hsa_net=adwords&hsa_ver=3&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwkJm0BhBxEiwAwT1AXOF19Ad_pcbA2iupsgVkzy27RlJyu2mMkmCVUFizWfmvr_rRI-v0ERoCV8kQAvD_BwE

Yes I inspected it after disassembly and cleaning. I haven't seen or found anything else but the wearing on the bushing. Do you have links for that info about the outer fork tube replacement need? I would check it with some investigation. Thanks in advance.

Thank you mate. I'm glad that you find it useful.

Hi! I bought it in Austria at Louis. It is called Kettenmax. But I'm pretty much sure that it is available under several names.

@@DesmoHead Thank you 🙂🙏

Hello. First check the operation voltage of your charging base. The USB output gives you 5V while the power adapter socket (below the lower right corner of the instrument cluster) gives you 12V. For fixing the base I used the aluminium cylinder I showed in the video. There is a threaded hole in the middle of it and I used the base screw that holds the clamp to fix it to the cylinder. To screw it in I needed to remove the four screws that hold the damping element of the charger on its back just to get access to the screw head that fixes the charger to the aluminium cylinder. I also used strong threadfix to avoid any unnecessary movement due to any load or vibration. For adjustment I use the horizontal position so no need to rotate the charger base (but it is possible since the screw to the aluminium cylinder allows it) and for tilting the cylinder screws on its side make it possible.

@@DesmoHead Appreciate the swift response.. Very useful information, thank you for sharing in detail 🙏 Keep the good vids coming, wish you rememberable riding times 👌

@@sosat.I.am. Thanks mate. I appreciate it.

Yes, a BMW L6 FPK and a RR Redesign. Two of my "children" from production I was responsible of. :-) And I'm proud of them. The Multistrada V4 and BMW GS1250 instrument clusters are also my "babies" on development side on display level. There is a V4 cluster in the garade also. ;-) And many others.

Thank you for the tip. I take it. :-) As for your question: I haven't experienced such a situation. The length should be the same and the front axle should slide in easily. Did you experienced it only for your second fork oil change or also for the first? There are some items inside the fork that can easily be installed upside down and could create such problem. One example: if you check this video th-cam.com/video/iCgauBiEnGQ/w-d-xo.html please see the position of the black spacer at 8:30 during disassembly. And at 24:35 it can be seen that during the assembly it was put back in upside down position. According to the comments they discovered and fixed it. Are you sure that you put back all components in a proper position?

@@DesmoHead Thank you for the quick reply and I did not consider that. I experienced the axle misalignment each time. Also interestingly when I had no preload on the right fork (full CCW) the axle was roughly 2.5 mm off, but with full preload (full clockwise) it was only 1 mm off. On both stalls the black collar is oriented correctly, but on the second reinstall I cannot tell in my photo which way the white plastic collar is oriented. I do remember it coming off, but thought it only fit one way. Easy enough to pull the right fork so I will disassemble everything and double check. That also might explain why I only get ~9.7 full turns on the preload nut vs a full 10 turns. Thank you very much!!!

You're welcome mate.

Hello. You don't need any spacer: there are two pins for the plastic cover in which you turn the two screws. Just throw that foam simply away. You might remove the corroded parts of the water pump cover and paint it with some proper paint that is not visible under the cover to protect the metal surface. Or replace it but it has got some more serious cost effect. This is an unfortunate design failure that cannot be seen until the corrosion extends over the cover. The tightening torque of the two plastic cover screws is 5Nm.

@DesmoHead thanks a lot for your reply I will take the cover off tomorrow for a proper look and remove the foam them maybe apply ACF50 and replace cover Keep up the good work 👏 some useful content 👌

You're welcome mate.

Thanks for your feedback. Good to hear that I have abilites also as a therapist. ;-)

Hello. Thanks for your feedback. You're right in the way that the weight load can be smoother when the suspension is active. However, the service manual does not say that the ignition needs to be switched on. That movement is to make the shaft to settle in the right loaded position by the weight of the bike. But I admit that sometimes even the factory manual I have contains funny things. ;-)

@@DesmoHead You said Multistrada 1260 and Service Manual?? ... I want to ear more about it ;-)

@@xabierperezfiano4411 What would you like to know about it?

@@DesmoHead How to dismount the rear shock... ;-)

@@xabierperezfiano4411 I haven't removed it yet so I don't have any video. What I can put down here is the following: 1.: Remove the seat. 2.: Remove the rear LH side body panel. 3.: Remove the seat latch. 4.: Remove the retaining bracket of the preload control. 5.: Disconnect the rear shock absorber preload cable connector and rear shock absorber adjuster cable. 6.: Unscrew the upper and lower screws of the shock absorber. 7.: Then slide the rear shock absorber out with its electronic preload tube. I hope it helps.

Hi. The cooling system is a closed circuit so it doesn't matter if the bike is on the side stand or on a centre stand. As for the expansion tank it's practically the same situation: there is a range between min. and max. so you doesn't fail if you refill it either with the bike on the sidestand or the centre stand. But of course the most accurate level check is on the centre stand.

Thank you @@DesmoHead

Thank you for your feedback. As for cleaning the inner side of the fork yes I always do it. I use petrol and let it evaporate after flushing the fork parts.

Yes you're right: I love that beautiful Italian bitch. :-)

In a case I would not need a fuel level indication I might do this. But this video is for another solution and let the others choose what they want to screw. ;-)

@@DesmoHeaddon’t bother… this is internet and your video is very important for those who need this info. thank you for the vid.

Hello. Thanks for your feedback. I bought the shaft removal tool at bikerstoolbox.co.uk in 2020.

Same gauge supplier I suppose. It is a strange design to me and I'm pretty much sure that during the development there was no real validation to meet these issues during an aging test or similar load. But in exchange it is cheap...or cheaper than a fully validated one. 😝

Hi. Unfortunately not. I ordered it from a 3D printing company: measured them on the bike. I have Paint drawings only and they did not keep the stl files.

Then I have to measure it and will painit with cad. Thanks for your reply!

SKF is the supplier for my bike. Might be the same. I expect a bit more from SKF but this is the XXIst century consumer market: need to supply cheap stuff therefore they are crap. :-)

@@DesmoHead agreed but I still love the bike , first bike I ever kept for 14 years usually I buy a new one every 2 years.

@@jackoff7770 Same situation on my side: there are failures and faults but the whole picture is so passionate and seducing that I forgive it to her. ;-)

You're welcome mate. :-)

Thank you mate. I appreciate your feedback. Keep following me thank you.

Hello. I have an OBDSTAR iScan instrument bought. I clear the service lights and warnings with it. You can also go to a dealer but my experience is that most of them refused to clear it in a case the service was done by myself. They need to send all service info to Ducati cloud and this way the responsibility is theirs in a case of any issue. So I understand them. As for independent services I have no experience. That's why I bought the iScan. There is Melcodiag also available but I have no experience with it. It's a "free" SW and need cable harness only.

@@DesmoHead Thanks, had a look and would be about 20 quid more than a service from ducati so well worth that. Hope you do a video soon on how to use one and clear the service light. Glad you have started chanel, not much on the short years of the 1260

@@giff2005 Thanks for your feedback. Of course I will make video on how to use this iScan stuff. I need to wait springtime here when my garage will be warm enough. :-) As for service lights clear it will take a bit longer since I still have about 15k km left until the next service. Unless someone would come with a Ducati and ask me to clear some codes. ;-)

Thank you pal. I appreciate your feedback.

Thank you very much for your feedback. It is always a motivation to continue what I have started. I hope I can give a lot of useful content to my scrubscribers. (Sister model as a Hyperstrada or Hypemotard I suppose...;-))

Muito obrigado.