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Thank you so much!

Please check the actual installation video. And check the title carefully of this video.😉

This is just a photoshop to highlight the thumbnail. Although I think with pigment you can colorise the compound as well.

Hi, 5 liters, but I recommend to check the compound instructions. This is different for each brand and the size of the bags. Good luck with your project.

Thanks for watching! Glad it is of use to you!

Great question. The compound I used specifically stated to let it rest a bit and give it another thorough mix before applying it. This is to ensure all is properly mixed. But I can imagine there are compounds that don't require this.

Thanks for watching and your comment. That is indeed a cool idea to create a more lively design! I love to hear idea's from co-creative people! Thanks!!

Thanks for watching and your feedback! My final layer was about 5-10mm thick. Looking at the compound you are about to use, it shouldn't be an issue. The reason I did it in several layers was to familiarize myself with the compound and the process, and to have an easier volume to calculate (which saved me some stress in the end). I have applied it on other surfaces as well, with bigger/deeper holes. As long as it is within the range that is written on the bag, you are good to go. The best of luck with your project!

​@pencilntools thanks for the reply. Great content!

Love it! Essential for a good result. You deserve a cookie!😂😂

Many thanks!!!

@@johng8049 they have steel straps, for extra security. Nail proof!

Thanks for your question! There might be different reasons for this: 1:It could be that the composition of each batch is slightly different, giving a different color. 2: The difference in drying could be a factor as well. In my tryout video, I noticed I had white spots caused by efflorescence, this is when water transfers calcium hydroxide to the surface. With each bucket, I'm adding "fresh" moisture to the last batch. Increasing the drying time a bit. 3: A Difference in thickness of the underground can cause difference in drying speeds, this can create discoloration as well. 4: When rinsing the spiked roller, water remains on the roller, this gets introduced into the mixture again and gives some discoloration as well. My guess is that it is more a combination of 1-2-4. If this is important for your project, you could mix larger batches in one go or work with a slow setting mixture so you don't have to rinse your tools so often. A colored epoxy or PU coating could cover this as well. In my case, color is not important as it is a garage floor. Good luck with your project!

It is always a bummer when things don't work out as hoped for. What helps me is to always try-out the full process on a spot that I can cover later on or that is not visible. Surprises will come for sure when dealing with a new product or production process. But as you mentioned, it is best to accept, learn and move on! After all, we are here to learn. Good luck with your future challenges!

Thanks for your question. With the top level, I mean what you would like to have as the final level of the path. Usually, this is at the same level as surrounding pathways. Or, as in my case, about 2cm higher than my lawn. For water to run off into the lawn. Frome thereon, you cont downwards to remove the soil. Cobblestones have this slightly curved top surface. The rest is usually flat. So, measuring from the top of the curved surface to the bottom of the opposite side is your height of the stone. Hope it helps! Good luck with your project!

Can't help it😂

Thanks for watching and your comment! That is correc. Youu don't necessarily need to wash the buckets with a slow curing compound. The one I used was cured in 4 hours and starts to set in about 20 minutes. Starting from the 3rd bucket, clumps would start to form. 86m2 is a big surface!

😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂watch the installation video first, then comment.😉

Thanks for watching and for the feedback! That could indeed improve the adherence!

Then what is the point of applying a PVA/acrylic sealer prior to pouring?

Thanks for watching and your feedback! I know that all new things come with surprises and they can be very frustrating, so I like to try all possibilities before going at it. Glad to have you as a subscriber!

Hi Eliomernk, thanks for watching! we bought them used from people in our neighborhood. But you can find them in DIY markets as well, depending on your preferences. 2nd hand they are really cheap, sometimes for free! Good luck with your project!

Hi Logan, sorry to read things are not going exactly as planned. It is a challenging job to do, i must say. Hope your next one goes better! Maybe you can try adding a little bit extra water to the compound, so it has a better flow to it. Also, check the follow up video where i show how i did the complete pour with 4 extra helpjng hands. The product sets fast l, so you need all the help you can for a steady supply. Good luck!!!!

@@pencilntools nobody is perfect so i can't expect to be perfect on my first try! I found this video refreshing since it shows the learning process not just an edited video with all mistakes left out. Each day if we get a little bit better then we made some progress! Thanks for making these videos and showing reality!

Thanks for the comment!

Thank you so much!

Thanks!

Was thinking about bare foot, would that be too much?

Dear Ronnie, thanks for watching and your question. There are definitely brands that offer outdoor compounds. The one I used will not work for outdoors as water can seep in during freezing it will break the floor. So please make sure to choose the right compound. Extra tip: Outdoor, in full sun and a lot of wind, it will dry really fast! Choose a cloudy day without rain and little wind (or work in the evening when the sun is already down a bit) and make sure you have enough helping hands to keep pouring continuously, as it will go really fast and once it sets, there is no way of altering the results. Check this one for an easy setup: th-cam.com/video/hT4S41T3kog/w-d-xo.htmlsi=skc2nUKLRZOxSm8a 3 unexperienced people and we managed well I think! Good luck with your project!

Thanks for you question, but I think this is for another video ;-)

Dear Ladydadyruok, thank you so much for watching and your question. To be honest, I haven't had the chance to finish my garage floor as of yet. Perhaps, I will leave it like it is, as I never work with grease or oil products and there is no car inside that can drip oil. In case you want to extra protect it with a coating, the floor should be free of grease and dust and the lower portion of your wall protected with plastic to avoid splashes. I think this video is a good indication how to approach this: th-cam.com/video/KECUrK_Ib1w/w-d-xo.html. (pay attention how he moves towards the exit of the floor and how he rolls in lanes to keep working wet-in-wet paint. This avoids stripes after drying for a nice and even result. The rest depends a lot on your product of choice. I would recommend PU as it is quite a bit easier to apply because of the extended open time compared to epoxy and it will not turn yellow due to UV radiation. The recommended amount of layers, if you need to sand in between or not and the drying time before full use is mentioned on the product information sheet. (this can vary between brands) Keep the project area well ventilated or work with a face mask if ventilation is difficult, as it will emit unhealthy vapors during the drying process. (a low-VOC water based PU is a good choice here). Apologies for the late reply and good luck with your project, you got this!!!

@@pencilntools Super! We ended up going with a PU. We called the manufacturer of the brand of self-leveling compound that we used and asked him to recommend a sealant and he did. It all worked out. Thanks again for sharing your details. What makes your videos so helpful is that you also discuss what didn't go well and you allow us to learn as you learn. We appreciate you!

​@ladyladyruok thanks for getting back to me with the good news! I'm happy it turned out well for you! Your feedback keeps me going!

Ooops, my bad! Thanks for informing me!

Thank you so much!

Thank you so much for your comment! I'm a bit of a perfectionist, so when it is not perfect, I'm a bit disappointed at first. Now, after a bit of time, i do enjoy it quite a bit. Good luck with your projects, hope it inspired you!

Thanks for your question. It is plywood designed for casting concrete. It has het a special toplayer. This is a standard product you can purchase in a diy store. Cheers

Thank you so much for the tip!

Thanks for the comment! Yes, this is best to do with a small team to have a good flow. Then it is a pleasant job! Good luck!!!

Thanks for the kind words!

Thanks for the kind words! Appreciated!

Hey, thanks for your question. This took about 3 hours with 2 people.

Thank you so much!!!

Thank you for the kind words! Good luck with your project

Hey, the thickness is determined by the manufacturer. Minimum is usually 2mm yes, a good flow is achieved also by a decently primed underground so that the compound doesn’t dry too quickly and has time to flow. The minimum thickness is also necessary to achieve good strength of the product when hardened. Best of luck!!!

@pencilntools thanks mate! I am trying to level my floor for wood effect tiles and only need to fill 2 -3 mm so a bit worried if that's enough compound to make it flow. I will have a good worse case will just spend more and add more compound