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OMG, thank you for this genius tip! I bled my Hayes in 2 minutes using only 5ml syringe without any adapter, just pressed the syringe into rubber port.

So simple, thank you!!

Thanks, easy to follow fix for this 😊

Thanks for the video, my brake lever was reaching the limit of its travel so, inspired by this video, I used a syringe and hypodermic needle to top up the brake handle reservoir. This was done with the handle upright and the bung removed. Worked a treat, I pumped a few time and repeated the top up but I am not sure this was necessary. Only cost was the brake fluid, $10, the local chemist gave me the needle.

I’m currently looking at a buying a home, but while I was checking the attic, I saw the same separation with the rafters along the entire length of the roof. How severe is something like that? Or can it just be fixed with adding braces?

thanks. You saved the day with the video. Replacing these Hayes Calipers on on 2005 Kikapu was becoming too complicated. All that was wrong was air in the lines.

Thanks this video helped alot

Great short cut and work less and ride more on that sweet bike.

Great tip, thank you!

Very helpful! Thx from Cowansville, Qc

Who can we trust to review our construction for recommendations? I live in shadowbriar?

Thanks for this video dude! I’m working on an old bike and hadn’t even heard of these levers before but I have the sram kit already so I should have a syringe that will work Appreciate this

This is the easiest way I’ve ever seen bike brakes bled

Just did my Hayes 9 and made 2 homemade syringes. One for the calliper and one for the master cylinder. I had the callipers and handles disconnected so everything was off the bike and I just bench bled them. Work out great. Thanks for your video

You are awesome, here in NZ a bleed kit is $60-$90! I just made my own with some tubing, a syringe for my cats medicine (she was happy to donate) and the thin plastic nozzle off a silicone spay can. Did as you said, 2 fully functioning brakes! Thank you so much

This was great. However it worked better for me when I un tightened each caliper adjustment first then “burped” the line. Then retightened the caliper adjustment

I reverse bled a hayes nine a few times and couldn't seem to get the last bubbles out no matter what. I.e. I could not get it rock hard,,, I could get it to work ok but it wasn't stiff... In theory the reverse bleed should work, but seemed to be bubbles stuck in the line somewhere. I Left it overnight with the lever up in the air and next morning worked the lever back and forward and managed to get the bubbles out straight away. As I had tried this the night before to get the bubbles out, I could improve it but not get the lever hard, but now got it hard! So I assume there were bubbles down the line that took time to come up! Ok next thing I pushed the lever down and locked if off went to use it and the lever went soft again afer a few pulls !@#$! I'm assuming I didn't have enough liquid in the resevoir so I forced liquid in and youtubed and did this method,, tried forcing fluid in through the top and kept levering and got it rock hard again. It seems to have stayed this time, but I can confirm that this method helps, even after reverse bleed!!! I can only assume the cylinder sucks air up into it the piston area if the resevoir isn't full, so filling the resevoir makes sense as when it is in the down position the air is at the top and it can suck air inside the master. (Think about a car master,, the oil is always above where it sucks in the oil but in this master with the lever in the down position it can suck air if the oil isn't enough). For proper maintenance though I think flushing the system particularly in an older bike should be the way to go anyway, and then use this method on top to get it to go hard. Another thing is leaving it enough time for any small bubbles to rise to the lever i think is also key, maybe this might take an hour orovernight??????? ????? With the syringe I just used a medical syringe that is curved and funneled to a poin and jams perfectly in the top hole, and with the reverse bleed to flush the old oil I just added a piece of tubing to the same syringe... You will need a 6mm ring spanner for the bleed nipple. My only other comment is don't ever do this over grass in case you loose the nipple....

Can you show where you get the syringe? I checked eBay but the tip of the syringe kits looks like threaded and different from yours. Thanks

OMG bro, thank you! I was so lost, but was able to follow your instructions even without the official Hayes kit. A million times thank you.

Just like when you change the brakes on your car or motorcycle, you should remove the caliper and brake pads to seat the brake piston back into the caliper body. Yes you have essentially bled the brakes but as you see in the video the lever is moving all the way towards the grip on the handle bar. This means that the piston is not traveling the proper distance to make contact with the rotor. When the brakes are cold its seems ok. But once you've ridden on a steep trail or under heavy braking your brakes will fade quickly and stopping power is reduced.

Just came across this video. Wow, saved me so much effort and time. I wasnt able to inject that much in, but i did pull out a load of air and really badly discoloured old fluid. Brakes are a lot better, still not as good as the fron brake, but a lot better than it was. Might have another go at taking air out, see if I can improve it further. The Hayes video was more for the newer brakes I think, rather than the Sole / Nine

Wasn't working for me for some reason, read the comments and all that stuff didn't work. So I just took the reservoir cap off and filled it, squeeze a lot, and tapped the lever with a screwdriver. You're looking for bubbles and even little tiny beer foam bubbles. And then add more, squeeze, tap, open bleeder. Add more, tap, squeeze, open bleeder repeat. This is my first time dealing with hydros on a 04 sasquatch. Make sure the reservoir is full full before you cap it and put the lever back where your like it. Took my dad and I hours haha owell. Shit happens

Dude, thank you for the video. However, get to the point. Too much side talk will cause people to go seek another video.

I bought a used Kona Cylinder Cone for $80 and both brakes were not operating. The owner told me he tried to bleed them and failed so he figured they were toast. I saw your video and was skeptical as I'd never seen this technique but I tried it and it worked great. Both brakes are working well with no sponginess and a good bite. Much appreciated.

Great video and spot on for saving money. Thanks.

Confirmed, this technique works well with Hayes Nine. For even better results do this: tilt the handlebars slightly away so that the filling valve is slightly elevated. With the adapter & syringe attached, flick the brake lever repeatedly. You don't need to pull it hard at first. Any bubbles trapped deep down will slowly accumulate. Then gradually pull slightly harder. It might take at least 5 minutes of flicking for them to all surface. Eventually you'll notice that the brake lever's resistance will start to feel normal, at which point you can pull out the adapter and reseat the seal.

Very helpful, thanks! I would recommend editing out the first 2 min. & 54 seconds because you're basically just showing the cobwebs on the bike, etc., and the "Meat" of the video starts at 2:54. But your 'hack' on bleeding the brakes is great, worth the wait, thanks again!

Clever quick fix, thanks for taking the time to share it!

Given that the bleed nipple at the caliper was completely seized this gave a quick and effective method of purging air from the lever end. Thanks, a time saver!

Awsome explanations!!

What’s all the gunk in the lever? I have the same on mine

When do you actually bleed the brakes?

This is "burping " i.e removing air. This is not a full bleed which is changing the old fluid for new fluid .

Just used this method. Perfect! Thank you 😊.

Just keep pumping bro, you do not have to remove it, as long as you arent pumping the air back in, youre gold.

Interesting technique. You are bleeding the line at its high point and allowing the air to rise through the line with the assist of the top syringe only. As for it not being the "right" way, I'd say that if you are getting air out, then you are improving the brakes. I'd like to point out that many of the brake bleeding videos make it a point of removing the air out of the syringe prior to bleeding. This is NOT necessary and a waste of time as long as you point the syringe down. The air will naturally stay on the top and won't reenter the system unless you totally empty the syringe.

For bleeding the brakes, don't you actually need to replace the whole liquid inside with new one? Does it makes any difference?

Thanks for your video. I save 60$.

Awesome video. Thanks

Video was on point. Thank you

Similar - dropped the bike off the wall after a couple of years to let my youngest ride it. No brakes. Phoned local bike shop "you'd probably be better off replacing £65 + £20 fitting" Found this vid. Took me five min to find the ten year old bleed kit. Another ten to sort the brakes. Boys out riding now, Dad's a hero 😁

Great video .. THANKS!...

Pure genious. Just saved me a small fortune at the bike shop.

Brilliant! Just did my brakes and they work like new again. Thank you for sharing.

Thanks for making the video. Once I saw this I bought a bleed kit. My local bike shop wanted about $60 to bleed my brakes. You saved me $40!

Fantastic tutorial. Thanks.

Worked perfectly. Just did this fix. Took my bike to a repair place and they told me to replace the entire line. Thanks for this video.

What's the name of the "thing" you put on syringe to connect to the lever?

Thanks for this video. Worked perfectly for me!

Thanks for all the positive replies! I didn't even know I had all these comments and views until my wife told me today! Hahaha In fact, I didn't even know what video she was referring to until she reminded me!