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Recently got myself a 1926 sedan- needs an awful lot of work, but since I've been an antique collector and automotive dork my whole life I have much of the accessories needed to help 'kit it out' appropriately. I know it can never really be 100% 'like original' but I'd still like to keep its classic character, heh. Love seeing what kind of stuff is out there for it; if only somebody could point me to some replacement radiators that didn't cost more than the whole car! Not the ones meant for a T-bucket either. Might go with a replacement meant for a tractor.

would oil cooler help for uphill rides and when temps rise?

Battery powered starter?

Music sucks

I LOVE My 1923 Model T Ford! And am enjoying Your FANTASTIC Video's! I also listen to 1920's and 1930's music. Especially in My garage working on the 1920's Cars! So You as are a man after my heart playing this AWESOME music with your wonderful videos!

1. Aermore. 2. Rocky Mountain brakes. 3. Ruckstell 2-speed axle. 4. Dipstick. 5. Grease nipples. 6. Door seals. 7. Sealed ball bearing hub. 8. Float-A-Ford shock absorbers. 9. Electric fuel pump. 10. Timkin tapered roller bearings. 11. Scissor jack. 12. Jack stands. 13. Mirrors. 14. Suicide doors. 15. Turn signals w/hazard position on stalk. 16. Moto-meter. 17. Spotlight. 18. Brake lights. 19. Oil filter screen w/ magnet. 20. Klaxon horn. These are what I want. The original horn will still be there, but the Klaxon will be for if that isn't enough. The Aermore will be for if neither of the horns work for some reason.

Ok good morning

Great video...i really liked the music !!

Great tips 👍😎

Annoying music turned me off.

The cabin heater. Haven’t seen that one

"Skinner's Sock"?

The time to read the description of the accessory is way too short. of the accessory are too short.

What is the name of that carb? Carburetor type??? Are you doing well???

The rear main thrust wears on the front end due to the clutch spring hauling back on the crank when the clutch is released. May I respectfully suggest you put the shim on the front end of the cap so the magneto clearance remains in specs. I think your method in ingenious. I have done this repair job a few times but don’t advertise it. I build up the babbit surface on the front of the cap and machine it down to proper width. It’s crude but works fine. Model T respond well to such things. When I babbit model T’s I put a bronze thrust on the front of the rear cap and it solves the problem permanently.

Jak dobrze posłuchać rzeczowych informacji zamiast jednostajnego bełkotu wiadomych stacji. Brawo!

Hi Oliver thanks for this Video, can jou tel ne wäre you her this Lifter cap or Hand you Fix Thema by yourself? Please tell me how I can get them or fis them . Thanks Jorg from Germany Mai: pedalo55@gmx.de

That dipstick looks atrocious.

$350.00 that's almost as much as a Model T Ford cost new..

Sorry the delay. I took the head to a local auto shop that had a head resurfacer. Ran it down 20 thousandths of an inch based on their measurements.

Sorry for my delay here. Crankshaft end play, when excessive, begins to cause fly wheel parts, mostly magnets, coils, etc, to begin hitting each other as tolerances are set very close for the magneto to work properly. End play caught early will save a lot of repair and problems, but correction is problematic. My scheme outlined in this video is a takeoff of similar fixes found. Best simply do an external end play measurement as described, it will tell you all thats needed as to your next step.

All I ask is, show me your restored 1925 T Coupe or any antique auto you restored before adding negative complaints on what I have laid out here on TH-cam. All told over 20 k bucks, four years of my time, and a lot of effort and sweat. Ok? This was a first and last for me. I figure I did a pretty good job on it overall. Got a lot of enjoyment on the project too.

You don’t care for high compression heads, or a 280 cam?

Decent comments and nice slides. I had the NEW T. In late 1925 the 1926 was a bit wider, the coil box was moved to the top of the engine, and the wheels were changed to 21". It also had the gas tank moved to the cowl so there was rarely a hill too steep to climb. My motometer seemed to work. If it wasn't right, the steam would let me know when the engine was hot. Mine was among the last without a headlight to fender cross bar. I did add an antique STOP lite in the middle of the spare tire with the word STOP to warn people behind that I was slowing from a high speed to maybe a stopped position. I also added chrome bumpers and brackets just in case! The only other differences, I repaired the wood wheels, stained them, and painted the removeable rims bright red with wide white wall tires. Henry would have rolled over in his grave seeing my T. Other than those beauty changes, we drove several hundred miles, I got permission to step over the ropes, and took photos of the 15 millionth T so I could make my own interior exactly original. Instead of horse hair or Spanish Moss, I used foam. I used to be called Model T.

It was good to see this nice video. My 1940 Opel Kadett ( then already in the GM Group), has the same valve layout. I have twice a 1.1 litre engine to restore. Regards from the Battle of the Bulge area, Belgium

'industry'

Did you surface grind the head or just cut it with a face mill?

Looks like the car for sale at gateway

I remember all the stuff they had in the J. C. Whitney catalog for the model T.

No wonder the Model A was such a hit in 1928. I own a '31 Slant with many modern upgrades from the original, making it easier,safer & a better car all round to drive!

I like your video and love the music. For some reason a lot of the text in your dialogue bubbles was cut off at the edges, so I couldn’t read it. I’m very interested in improving the brakes on my Model T, so I’m watching very carefully.

this car is for sale now www.gatewayclassiccars.com/STL/8068/1925-Ford-Model-T

Max, you have an excellent ear for the tunes used. I have this neat little collection of period music, much of which does fall into the time of the car and it's production. Problem is though, its older stuff, scratchy, nicks in the records, and such. So I used the ones similar and I bet your the only fella out there who spotted it. You have a great ear. Tom

For all those costumer there are looking rear brakes for Ford model T..Rocky Mountain Brakes. You can contact Bud Williams president at 1(951) 440-1451 or send E-mail at Budwilliams@Rockymtnbrakes.com

And this. There is the purest among us who follows the original intent on the original design. For my US Constitution, i totally agree. On my 25 T, well I get a little leeway. I am not a purest. We have a fellow show up at our mothly cruise in's with a 1911 touring that has been in his family for near 80 years. Neat little car as it has all the rust holes, patch parts screwed down, old gas headlites with Harbor Freight freebie flashlites to get home with at nite, and every possible rot and ruin a car as this can have. But it's beautiful. Character all over the place. Here is original at its peak. The owner followed his heart. I followed mine. Both cars are neat. We are both happy.

I chose to use air driven staples as opposed to hammer and tack to speed up the process of the installation. It afforded good wood penetration and ease of physical fabric stretch with a free hand as it went along. The images show wrinkle free fabric under proper tension as well. This was my first top replacement on an antique T. The use of the walkway about the car was badly needed. Any other approach would have resulted in a much less quality repair.

Fabric was the result of visiting every store in the area to see what was on hand. Several looks later the material was spotted in a literal pile of bolts upon the floor and was exactly what was needed. I had help choosing as well. Here locally i recall it was a Joanna fabric store. The original gray striped interior was all to be replaced including all cardboard backs. I wanted brown striped and this is the result. I had the seats upholstered by a car club member in that business. My talents did not reach that far.

After near one hundred years, as wood will do, cracks, splits, and penetrations from hundreds of tacks used at every top replacement, gives a fella time to consider alternatives. A great assortment of glues, epoxies, and fillers, line the shelves of many stores. The technique used here to repair the wood throughout the car proved exactly right. The use of the Loctite and the nice round tooth pick on the top revealed that this was it as to a real fix to wood restore on this T. The picks also allowed a small tack hammer to drive them lightly into position and fill all the space within any crack found. More wood the better thing. The glue used was not a gel type as wicking into the repair was essential so the free flowing type was used.

I think it's needed to reply on a few thoughts left by folk as a comment on the video presentations offered on my 25 T. I belong to a local antique auto club in my area. Membership in the 50's and all with a huge range of car types. Each have distinctive touches and all are departures from the original. None compete against the car or its owner. All reflect personal ownership pride and desire. And all look great. So its a personal choice every time. Ok?

The neat thing about restorations, old cars, whatever, each of us have diverse views on the utility, safety, use and comfort, of the end product. This being my one and only restore, I liked being able to stop the T, the extra brakes, i am able to tell the teen behind me im gonna turn here, the turn signals, and if going uphill and i forgot to fill the tank, i got a fuel pump to save the day. All in all, worthwhile stuff. Tom

I saw the felt filter for the oil some back. Since engine and transmission share the same oil, its a two for one thing. Truth be told it is a partial filter as much of the oil is kicked about inside the transmission and misses the felt. But it is a neat idea. I thought it best to not apply it here on this car. What happens when the felt fills up with gunk? Floor out, tranny cover off, replace, put it back together. Thought it un needed. Tom

The toothpicks were a godsend as an idea but the use of a good fast acting glue, Loctite here, sets the base repair such that it can be treated much as the original wood. Saved a ton both in time and money on this one.

Top material for antique cars is offered by several busness concerns out there and can be found with an online search. Langs is one.

On the music. Much of what is on hand came from antique dealer folk who had or offered for sale a compilation cd or such. If they sounded right, they were ok with me. If you detect one out of place, your older than me. Lol Anyway, they helped set the mood for the videos. All I wanted anyway. Tom

The only fellow one has to satisfy is the one who owns it. Thats me. Old cars always have add ons. Like a fuel pump. Not period but it works. Turn signals. The look is old. At 77 i qualify too. Add ons? I got a new heart valve. Am I an original? No. The T represents history and looks good too. Aimed for that one. Got it too. Tom

VERY COOL!

In fall of 1934 my grandfather upgraded his model T by buying a 35 Ford.

I had a co-worker at the shop where I worked who had a totally stock Ford model T, and it was so original they used his car at auto shows to check the authenticity of other entrants. He drove it to work in the summer, never over 15mph, and after he died his son took it over. My favorite gadget was a pulley you attached to the rear wheel with the car jacked up. With a belt you could run a water pump, a saw or a generator just like they did with steam engines.

what is the tune? sounds like Benny Moten.

I think if you made this patent you would have the best gas mileage Model T ever made! pdfpiw.uspto.gov/.piw?Docid=04177779&homeurl=http%3A%2F%2Fpatft.uspto.gov%2Fnetacgi%2Fnph-Parser%3FSect1%3DPTO1%2526Sect2%3DHITOFF%2526d%3DPALL%2526p%3D1%2526u%3D%25252Fnetahtml%25252FPTO%25252Fsrchnum.htm%2526r%3D1%2526f%3DG%2526l%3D50%2526s1%3D4,177,779.PN.%2526OS%3DPN%2F4,177,779%2526RS%3DPN%2F4,177,779&PageNum=&Rtype=&SectionNum=&idkey=NONE&Input=View+first+page