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Yes I can use all 60kWh but there are better batteries to do this with

If you plan on making a 48V battery then you should avoid the BYD battery. They are too difficult to work with.

126 cells (all in series)

@@Brendon_M Obrigado então esse Peck 403,3v qual a capacidade da célula.

Here are all the specifications of the pack BYD Atto 3 60.5kWh pack 126S 150Ah 403V (3.2V LFP cells) 1050mm wide (1230mm including the mounting flanges). 2100mm long. 125mm tall Haven't weighed it but around 450kg is my guess

100% agree. If I was to do it again, that would be the way I'd go

@@Brendon_M ah sorry read the rest of the comments u told that already before. :) still great setup like this and probably learned a lot....

Problem is I didn't have a table that can support 500kg

I know my answer is not very kind; Sorry, my friend, if you don't like the answer, but I believe that problems don't exist, only options. I think there is always more than one way to reach any place. If there isn't a table, I would look for construction blocks or create my own table that can bear the weight. As far as I know, a wooden beam can be as strong as a metal beam

@@Brendon_M I think maybe you wanted to say that a table does not add value (it does not change anything) and that is why there is no value in investing in a table

I go over it in one of the other videos but - BYD Atto 3 60.5kWh pack 126S 150Ah 403V (3.2V LFP cells) 1050mm wide (1230mm including the mounting flanges). 2100mm long. 125mm tall

A battery table would make it a lot easier than working on the floor and using jacks and stands to get the battery out of the car

The Atto 3 doesn't have a service disconnect. The manual says to disconnect the 12V battery and then just unplug the HV cable from the side of the inverter stack. You then put a cover over the end of the cable that locks in place to keep it from being plugged back in or the terminals touched

Yep, in hindsight it would have been easier to just get new cells and build it up from scratch

I'll have a closer look when I next get a chance. There's probably a close up in the P2 video but I can't remember for sure...

No numbers on them but yes; they are 64 pin ICs

@@Brendon_M hmm, looking at the BMS board (the current sensing side), it looks like there are two ICs redundant to each other, performing the current sensing and HV measurements. This architecture looks similar to NXP (refer to RD-HVBMSCT800BUN)

🙄

Certainly make my life easier, doubt my wife would let me have one though

You have a wonderful wife, you can let your wife know about our products!

Big mistake, now China dominates the EV battery market!😅

This is why traditional carmakers are so far behind. Tesla even opensourced their patents to kickstart them!

If you want to ask any questions then just do so here so that others with the same questions might also get their answers

The best buyback amount I have access to is 10¢/kWh which is just not worth it

Do you mean the black material attached to the battery itself? Or the plastic under trays on the car?

Black tray under car. Somehow i ran over something which punctured some holes

Well, the tray at the rear has not much under it. The tray at the front has all the connections to the battery behind it but they are all above a piece of rectangular tube so pretty well protected. Unfortunately I don't have any photos

I'd use a different solar inverter that could take a HV battery and bypass all the trauma. I'd probably still use a BYD battery as a wrecked BYD would probably be cheaper than a wrecked Tesla

Not really though I guess I could throw an extension cord over the fence if they needed power in a black out. Realistically the power around here is pretty stable, we might lose power for a few hours once or twice a year at worst

@@Brendon_M It is a pitty you're not my neighbour. I also was thinking to buy the wrecked EV. I'm somewhat familiar with CAN bus but I wonder how you managed to make a control of the battery? How did you figure out what signals to send? I just wonder if I take the battery out can I charge it without doing the dismantling? Let's say if I apply required voltage to the battery 400 or something ? Dismantling seems quite involved.

Yes it is a blade battery but in this case the cells are welded together so unfortunately no, you can't replace a cell without specialist equipment.

I know I answered you already but for completeness for others I'll repeat here. The BYD Atto 3 doesn't have a pyro fuse, after a crash it only logs fault codes that just have to be cleared with a scan tool before the car will ready up again. I had to use a proper workshop scan tool to do it, I didn't have any luck using a Bluetooth/phone APP style of scanner

@@Brendon_M I see, will try it

@@Brendon_M by proper workshop tool do you mean special for Byd only? Or decent Autel version can do it?

@@Brendon_M actually fixed it when disconnected all blown airbags and sensor on the effected side,then cleared codes . And she drove down from the trailer,yey

I used an Autel one but any reasonable ($1000+) scan tool should be able to do it

No pyro fuse. You just need to rest the fault codes before it will ready up. Unless you blew the main fuse in the battery pack from there being a short in the HV system

Every cell was connected to the original BMS

Yeah, I never really planned on uploading the video when I recorded it. It and the editing/voiceover was more of an afterthought

Yep, SoH was at 100% still. I don't use the full capacity though, max discharge is set to 85% depth of discharge but the last 15% will automatically be used for backup power in case of loss of grid so the system can actually use the whole 60kWh. This time of year the battery is only getting down to 80% and is normally fully recharged by mid morning anyway. It's not the best to keep the cells so close to full all the time but it is what it is

Yep, Perth

I am in Brisbane, wanting to do the same thing 😊

My recommendation would be to install the battery to an inverter that can handle high voltage batteries so you don't have to mess around making up a 48V system. Just plug an EV battery into the inverter with an interface module and away you go

@@Brendon_M thank you for your videos and the time you took to explain! Are inverters like that available?? Whats the name of the phone app?

@@Brendon_M Brendan, are you sure that any battery can be charged just applying the required voltage? I suspect that it could be BMS or protection curcuit preventing doing this. Am I right?

They have a system if you google it up...

I dont know. Last time I contemplated paying a garage to do that was better to buy a used or new engine. Replace one piston whats next?

@@jaaklucas1329 Let me rephrase that. "So basically the battery is un-repairable. Seems to me that replacing the entire engine in an ICE would be easier and cheaper !" If the cells are glued in then there isn't a repair path so scrap. Basically the value of a used EV is the car minus the cost of a new battery (and installation labour) which probably comes to about a dollar.

@@chrissybabe8568 Yea lm with you. Like to see an easier solution to fix a few cells in this pack. I believe Telsa can refurbish a pack.Mind you, these cars cost so little in China I guess it is what it is...

@@jaaklucas1329 I have 6 close relatives who have bought EV's (incl 2 x BYD, 1 x Tesla). I avoid any conversation that would require me to call them stupid (5 of them have degrees so they certainly aren't stupid). The only thing I can think of is that they must be what are called early adopters who have totally managed to ignore all the downsides of owning an EV including the reasons of why they are NOT ECO friendly.

@@chrissybabe8568 I only know Ebikes which Ive built and are excellent. Like Edison motors knows, an Emotor is way superior to an ICE engine...even if its run on gas like a diesel locomotive.. As far as why ICE engines have to go,try this.Drive your ICE car into your garage, leave it running, close the door and take a seat.You wont last long. Multiply that times billions of ICE engines around the world,thats the problem.