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Pentru cont bussines e necesara firma, VAT number, contabilitate, pentru produsele vandute in UE se varsa TVA-ul catre statul cumparatorului, nu direct ci contabilul da catre ANAF documentele pentru fiecare tara in parte. Shipingul e iarasi mai dificil la bussines daca pretul depaseste 150 eur, e necesar declarant vamal. Dpdv al eBay diferenta sta doar in VAT number. Contul bussines are si avantaje, de exemplu din cont "private seller" se pot vinde catre Germania doar cateva maruntisuri dupa care nemtii nu mai pot cumpara.

@@tubes_oldtubes_old Daca depasesti pragul 2500 de euro pe trimestru, vanzari catre Germania cu un cont "private seller" iti vor cere sa treci la un cont Business si daca nu o faci, clar se explica ca nu mai poti vinde catre Germania. Personal ti'o spun.. in situatia asta sunt eu acum.

Nu am firma, vand doar niste maruntisuri vintage, chestia cu falimentul e ca in orice afacere indiferent ca e comert online sau de alt fel. Campioana vanzarilor pe eBay (la femei) e o tipa din Balotesti ce vinde produse de tunning audio, cel mai prolific vanzator (ca numar, nu ca valoare) din Ro e un tip din Cluj ce vinde monezi - nu de colectie, majoritatea sunt actuale in circulatie, $1 firfirelul. Se vand si gandaci pe eBay, totul e ca vanzatorul sa vanda intr-un domeniu in care se pricepe.

Ai gresit ceva pe-acolo, platforma primeste codul vanzatorului de unde este si de unde expediaza.

Ce anume doresti sa faci?

Depinde, pentru vanzari in EU e o limita dupa care iti cere cont business, Germania e cea mai stricta in acest sens, permite cateva vanzari ca privat apoi blocheaza contul. In principiu daca ai cateva lucruri de vandut nu trebuie firma, la multe vanzari ar fi necesara.

Minim 100 lei.

All components a little over 1000 eur but is not available for sell. The designer say that getting all legal certificates will rise the price too much so he sell it as a DYI project, he provide written PIC and optional PCB's, transformers, front panel, heatsink, case, common components must be bought from any shop. Common components are a lot, only relays about 80.

Is not so hard to build a Roetest but are needed some knowledge in electronics field, is quite impossible to not make few mistakes at so many components. I made 2 mistakes, one IC installed reversed in socket and 2 capacitors installed reversed, having the schematics was easy to find and solve the problems. Also I had to adapt an adjustable range with a supplementary resistor to be in range. I just ordered another set of components for a new Roetest, I'll see how is working with 2 of them, if it not help me to increase the speed of tests one of them will be for sell. Ordering the parts is easy, on delivered CD is a svf file, uploading it to Reichelt shop is piece of cake, all components ordered in 10 minutes. Is a big help that svf file, without it I think will take a month searching and ordering components. In Roetest database also can be found Funke W19 settings to test tubes, or can be used any other settings.

12 bis 14 Stunden löten also hab jetzt 4 abende gebraucht und alles ist bestückt... Eine CSV Datei die man bei Reichelt hochladen kann wird von dem mitgelieferten Programm auf der CD erstellt somit muss man auch nichts zusammensuchen

@@tubes_oldtubes_oldhaha yes two electrolytic capacitors - is marked with all others + is marked was 470uf 200v right? Near usb board

Sorry, that's all I could do at the time, but I still think you can get an idea of the procedure, if you want to know something specific just ask. By the way, I just ordered the components for a second Roetest, maybe one of them will be for sale after I see if it's convenient or not to work with two.

Go to roehrentest.de site, you can buy from there a written microprocesor + CD with all data to make a Roetest, PC software is free, I advise you to buy more from there at least PCB set and transformers. All is professional quality. Except written microprocesor you can do yourself the rest. Can not be found for sale a functional Roetest, any owner did it himself.

Cunoscând engleză sau cu ajutorul Google translate se poate afla totul de pe saitul eBay. În linii mari: se face cont pe eBay, se adaugă card bancar, vor cere foto cu CI si extras de cont, se listează obiectul de vândut cu poze și descriere cât mai detaliate și costul expedierii. Inițial eBay limitează ca număr și valoare listările, se începe cu max. 10 obiecte și max $500, pe măsură ce se adaugă vânzări fără probleme și feedbackuri pozitive cresc limitele. Tot așa la început pentru fiecare vânzare banii sunt blocați până la confirmarea livrării căte destinatar sau 21 zile după care sunt transferați în contul vânzătorului. PayPal se mai folosește rar pe eBay, se lucrează direct cu cont bancar/card.

​@@tubes_oldtubes_oldștii cumva daca poți vinde pe Ebay și dacă ești minor dar ai card?

DHL e foarte scump, printre firmele de curierat cu DPD e mai bine dar numai pentru tarile apropiate, variantele cele mai utilizate sunt posta romana si EMS (tot prin posta lucreaza). Maruntisurile merg trimise fara valoare in plic recomandat (max. 2 kg si limitat ca dimensiuni) ce costa functie de greutate (100-300 gr. 30 lei), ce e mai mare colet prin posta romana. Coletele trimise in afara UE se expediaza doar de la oficiile postale cu vama si primul kg costa 60-80 lei in Europa, 110 lei USA, exista calculator tarife pe saitul postei. In concluzie pentru a va da un sfat mai exact ar trebui sa stiu greutatea, dimensiunile, valoarea si tara de destinatie.

Anterior sa devin managed seller primeam banii din vanzari prin paypal, comisionul total ebay + paypal era cca 15%, de la paypal se pot retrage banii in orice valuta, acum este comisionul total 20%. Cu paypal suma platita de cumparator intra direct in contul de paypal al vanzatorului. De cand ebay i-a obligat pe toti vanzatorii sa devina ”managed sellers” cumparatorii au multiple variante de plata (card, applepay etc) dar plata se face catre ebay de unde in minim 3 zile banii sunt livrati direct in contul bancar al vanzatorului. Comisionul ebay de 12.55% este ok, 0,3$ la fiecare vanzare este ok, nu mi se pare ok sa aplice comision si la shipping, taxa de 1.6% pentru international si comisionul de schimb valutar. Pe ebay.com totul se face in $ dar ebay trimite tuturor europenilor doar in euro, indiferent de moneda nationala.

Good luck with your project! Ask me for help if you need.

You have to buy few components from the tube tester designer (processor with software, PCB's, transformers). Maybe the front panel, case and heatsink too, I made them myself, depends by your possibilities. The rest of parts are common.

@@tubes_oldtubes_old Thanks for replying. I'm wondering about your opinion of this tester so far? Looks like a project to build. I service tube guitar amps and old hi-fi, juke boxes etc. Need to test tubes for pass-fail, life-test etc. Was possibly considering ETracer but not sure exactly what would be best for my line of work. Thanks again!

@@acoustic61 I use Roetest mostly to test and match NOS tubes. Very high accuracy, detects gassy tubes, shows everything about a tube. ETracer were without Sbox, now they offer Sbox but in 2 cases with a lot of external wires connections between cases. Roetest was designed with auto-wire from the beginning, in the same case. Roetest is the best tube tester for the moment, if it is in your budget and you can assembly it don't hesitate. The software has a calibration assistant and with a calibration box is very easy to calibrate it or just check the calibration, another advantage is the huge database (aprox 15000 type of tubes), free software, free updates etc. On second place I see ETracer, on third Amplitrex that has the advantage of working with/without a computer but in PC mode is very slow, has some bugs and problems with DHT tubes. About a tube you need to know plate current, gm and grid current/vacuum test with resistor, eventually an emission test (life expectancy) in Funke mode. Roetest did all of them and many other tests with a click, many other digital or analog tube testers can do all of part of them but in a harder way: no auto wire, pulse test (utracer), limited type of sockets (many of them), roll chart/cards/many switches, not for western tubes (L3-3) or not for russian tubes, one for preamp tubes and another one for power tubes (Orange), no stabilized voltages (maxi matcher) etc. Roetest deliver a full test protocol with all data and curves for each measured tube, printed as pdf or on paper. But so many data and so high accuracy (3 digits after point, microamps) can confuse someone with not enough knowledge to interpret them, so in this case a traffic light tube tester could be better, green for good, yellow for so-so and red for bad. If you service old devices with tubes I'm sure that you'll be very happy with a Roetest.

@@tubes_oldtubes_old Thanks for your informative reply. My main concerns are pulse testing of the Etracer compared to real world operating conditions of Roetest. I'm not sure when Jacmusic did the comparison but had a few criticisms. RoeTest "simulated' an emissions test? Is that not a true emission test? Stated that curve tracing did not plot curves same as the data sheets? Has this been improved? Has tube matching been implemented? Do you know if RoeTest inventor working on a new version #11? If I decide to build RoeTest, I would like to build the latest version and would wait if something new is coming soon. Sorry for so many questions. The Roetest looks like a great tool, and I want build one or the other. Roetest looks like quite a project to build by hand. But I think I'm capable and have Pace, & Hakko soldering equipment etc. BTW, Eurotubes recommends the RoeTester! Thanks again.

@@acoustic61 Tubes get hot from filament and from plate dissipation, at pulse testers plate dissipation is missing so measured values will differ for some tubes - Jac's article is very old - many make confusion between measuring plate current at a specific operating point and emission test where tube is tested like a diode to find out cathode emission capability; real emission test is made only few tube testers, well known being the german FunkeW19; Roetest can make all kind of tests but not all are default, for specific tests user must do some settings - by default 3 G1 ad 3 plate or screen curves, user can establish settings for all kind and any number of curves, even to insert a picture from original datasheet and then the traced curves over it for comparison - a version of matching is implemented, works good for single system tubes but for double tubes matching is done only for the first system; for me is very easy to export measured data to excel, using excel function I remove unbalanced, weak and bad tubes, for remaining ones I compare the data and curves; I test and match few hundreds per week - V10 is not old and I don't think a V11 will come soon; in February was released an update for software, with few nice improvement for heating, tube evaluation an for printing Only few SMD's in a Roetest, PCB's very high quality and full printed, instructions very explicit with pictures. If you buy the heat sink, front panel and the case you can have a working Roetest in a week. I finished mine fast but the personalized front panel and case were ready after a month

Yes, but so many clicks are heard only in 2 situations: fist tests when the device is finished and when a tube is tested for shorts. I've tested many thousands of tubes and the conclusion is that is not necessary the test for shorts. Roetest has a lot of protections for overcurrent if a tube is bad.

Hello, that's a very kind offer i'm building a roe test right now. Greetings from Germany. Robby

Good luck with your project. The easier way to buy components is uploading svf file (from database components) to reichelt shop. Other way takes a lot of time searching and buying for each component, they are hundreds. Buy more boxes for sockets with a male connector for each box, 5 small and 5 big should be enough. And tube sockets if you don't have. Don't forget about power resistors + male connector for calibration box, with this box calibration is very easy to do.