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Hi friends! My 2007 Odyssey has a P0970 code. I am sure there is no fault in the gearbox and the wiring is not short-circuited. What is the problem? Can you help me?

How do i take battery out and plastic off the bottom

There's NO "eck" in "especially".

Make a video showing how to do it yet you dont do it......

Nice share

stop watching how to videos and think for yourself.

🤣 what...why would you not use a rivit gun. I cannot fathom how people listen to stupid people trying to make any money they can. Even at your expense to use false information.. listen to old men not young idiots.😊

Use your 9mm gun

Helpful video, thanks for sharing and taking the time to make a nice quality video.

Because you need to delete the vacuum pump and get a manual wastegate

I think the older looking one is a shallow pan. The new one you bought is the deep pan.

How did you push back the retaining piece for the 12mm nut? I can't squeeze a flathead in there to pry it apart.

Could someone help me with a photo of the pmd plug on both ends l. Need to rewire mine and online diagram does not work for my truck

Yes put a board on tyre then use loader and push down Those jacks slip Off fast .Just maybe a safer way try it .May take 2 people

Well that Jack will come loose and hit you right in the HEAD 🙏🤔

This is a 911 call away .And yes i have stacked 1000's of bales 🙏🤫

What year Ody?

That's very cute when they grasp the brush or syringe.

How did you get that engine under the bed to film it?

Show how you put it in

Nice job brother watching from zimbabwe

Thanks for all the interest in this project. There's more to come, please subscribe.

Can I run my wire from my alternator right back to my battery for the trickle charge or do I need to go to solenoid and then inline fuse and battery??

OLDER VEHICLES ARE BETTER ! THIS MODERN CRAP IS CRAP & PLASTIC!!!!!!

From a time when they were a lot easier to work on. Chrome lugnut covers too 👍

I'll never understand the hatered for safeties on any gun and its funny when people whine about it just don't use it its simple.

Got one of those old Ford dumpers out on the farm... 292 v8

Simplicity is a wonderful thing! Look there are no servo motors to go bad,

I just found a baby mouse and she's big enough to walk around, but not sure what to feed her. Oatmeal is okay? Soaked a bit? Thank you for being so kind. It's been a long time since I have had one to take care of, so I am happy to see this video and get your advice!

On jobs like this, ALWAYS remove the blade!!! (First off, last on...)

I am in the process of restoring the same model saw, it is all there, and in almost working order, good motor, and bearings, just needs rust removed, cleaning, and readjusting, your video will be helpfull.

Darn an older gun with screws, pins slowly backing out. Good maintenance is your friend. Don't just clean, lube it, tighten everything at the same time. You want to spend more than $200 bucks for a 22LR pistol...it might surprise. You. Go buy a knew one and maintain it properly!

Excellent video, thank you

Thank you

Hi I have recently acquired a 1450 RAS. So far I've only taken the top cover off and first thing I saw was the belt is missing. Do you know if they are still available? I probably won't have time to do much on it as I'm building my own house. I want it so I can downsize later. I presently I am using an old 1950'd 3 phase De Walt. A great machine but built like a tank.

Where do you hook the magneto wire too?

This saw is lame in some design respects. I suspect penny pinching is the cause. In order to adjust the bearings in the bearing carrier head, you have to tremove the yoke from the bearing carrier. B&D Dewalt dropped the ball on this one. The older DeWalts had easily accessible adjustment set screws The pictures in the owner's manual shows adjusting the set screws through holes in the yoke that aren't there on the actual saw. The yoke piviot plunger has to one of the worst. It is upside down in comparison to the old DeWalts and most other RAS. The binding for the height adjustment crank that causes the crank to "jump" is due to missing roll pins in the saw column. If you look inside of the column down by the base, the lifting jack screw is held in place by a pin on each side. One pin goes into a slot on the side of the shaft and another just presses against the other side of the shaft. These roll pins trap the elevation jack in a vertical position. Somewhere one of the pins fell out and cause it to bind.

I need to replace the toothed belt. How is this done?

Helpful I have the R1350 and stiff going side to side , have to take apart to get it all lubed. Thanks

My saw is a model is a 7740/3421. The exploded parts diagram shows only one set screw holding the crank hanle on.

B&D bought Dewalt, and things went to hell in a hand basket.

How to remove jack screw in column?

Same model. Crank binds on every rotation. Loosened clamp bolts didn't do the job.

Heres what I think when i see these types of videos. That it’s obvious bs. Hers how you know. First off this is exactly the same helmet quality sold by harbor freight all day everyday that doesn’t burn the eyes of its customers. China makes them both. The only reason the others are more expensive is because of markup and brand nonsense. The Lincoln and Millers have more bells and whistles but that’s about it. Their auto-darken tech is made by exactly the same companies in China also. It’s extremely cheap tech for the Chinese either way. Second this would be one of thousands of videos that made this claim if this actually happened. If you the US consumer was getting a Chinese product sold on Amazon that was causing that extent of a injury there would be a huge uproar not a video here qnd there. I dont know why people do this?

What rods you use for it

Is it a good quality saw?

It looked like it would easily be long enough. I frequently mill with only 1" on

How long do you keep it in there?

Please include year of the vehicle in your video title. Your safety switch location seems very different than the one shown in this video of a 2006 Odyssey..

There is a handle that is used to unlock the "neck" and rotate the motor to the rip position. The star shaped thingy is a spring that maintains tension on the handle. To rotate the motor the handle fully open pushes on the cup shaped thingy that pulls the locking pin that holds the motor in position.