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Hi! Please be aware that I have done hundreds of these gearbox services over the years. I have plenty enough experience to know where these want to be tightened down to. I can also concisely say that wherever you've gotten 4nm + 180° from is incorrect. The correct torque figure is 8nm. Adding 180 degrees to 4nm would inevitably and undeniably take it significantly past 12nm, where you claim they would "surely break". In this case, I would much, MUCH rather just do it by feel. You also should note that this is my own vehicle. Regardless of getting paid for the labour time or not, I would still be comfortable to carry out the service just as I have here - however I would always torque these to spec, as well as replacing the bolts, given the customer pays for enough of my time and the replacement bolts. One could argue that without replacing the bolts, using torque settings at all is entirely moot and pointless either way, so by extension, even simply torqueing them is not enough if you use the old bolts. You have to bear in mind that not all customers are willing to pay the cost for new bolts, and my regular labour rates. A gearbox service can get expensive fast, when majority of people are told that automatic gearboxes are "sealed for life" or filled with "Lifetime Oil". The final thing to note is that many people do not have torque wrenches to work on their own cars outside of a workshop, and at the end of the day, there are thousands upon thousands of cars going about with sumps and drain plugs and fill ports and oil filters and wheels and lord knows what else which have not been torqued to a specified setting, but just tightened by someone with vague experience and not a single issue arises from it. I appreciate you taking the time to comment regardless.

​@@AlexYeets "I can also concisely say that wherever you've gotten 4nm + 180° from is incorrect. The correct torque figure is 8nm. Adding 180 degrees to 4nm would inevitably and undeniably take it significantly past 12nm, where you claim they would "surely break". In this case, I would much, MUCH rather just do it by feel." My bad I had theses torques in mind but for 722.9... You're right for 8nm on 722.6. WIS document-s are my sources

Hi, it's unusual that it's come with a 25mm/1" lug. Usually they come 1/2" or 3/8th". You will probably be best getting an adapter for 1/2" to 1" and a simple 1/2" socket set. But at minimum a 1/2" ratchet and 1/2"-1" adapter.

Was just what I happened to have to hand, and it's done a brilliant job if I'm being brutally honest. Not gotten any worse.

These were actually torqued to 140nm (technical service bulletin for these particular wheels) when fitted with locking wheel bolts. Not really possible to 'look' and see how tight it is.

74mm iirc. 👍

Thank you so much

Appreciate it, mate! Hopefully you find a good one, they're honestly brilliant cars and I've loved mine since I got it. Just look out for the dreaded ESL faults that they sometimes have, as well as the rear subframes rotting away! Good luck, and again, thanks for your comment! :)

Yup, all cars I do have full VHCs in effect, including the checking of headlamp aim, projected beam image and brake balance and performance testing. However, if I were to include all of this, the video would be many, many times longer. Thank you for noticing, however. These are things I check as I strive to do the best I can do for a service, no matter what car it is. What you don't see in this video is probably about three hours worth of footage that ended up being scrapped either because it was a lot of dead air of doing mundane tasks or repeated tasks, or just sections that were largely uninteresting.

@@AlexYeets Thanks for taking time to reply and also for the video which was excellent and I learned a lot from it. 🙂

Thanks! Yeah, that little bulb doesn't always work lol, sometimes I have to get a proper load tester for the big batteries, lol.

Hi sir do you cover Croydon Surrey

Hi Nye Davis. I'm currently not taking any bookings as I'm extremely busy up until March and I do these on a private basis as opposed to through the workshop I work at. Sorry I can't be of any help.

Does anyone know where such services can be found in Germany? I haven't found anyone who works like in this video!!

Hiya! Thanks for your opinion, don't think I'll be doing the music format again for a while at least, lol. Oil cooler and filter housings, I've actually found that they don't really matter which ones you go for - as long as the seals themselves where it mounts feel decent quality, they never really fail once they're fitted as it's usually just the mounting face seals which fail. Most of the parts like that which I fit have 2 years warranty, and on other W212s that I've fit similar parts to, never had them come back. In my opinion, most of the faults you get from "cheaper parts" (of this type) tend to stem from poor fitting procedures, where the genuine ones will kinda make up for lacking fitting skill. For trying to keep it as nice and spot-on as possible, and to-the-book, I'd go for the OEM manufacturer part. But otherwise, even the cheaper oil coolers tend to be alright. I've only had one go wrong due to a major manufacturing defect (which I should have realistically noticed before fitting, but you learn I suppose.) If yours is a 250 as opposed to the 350, you're quite a bit less likely to have the fault - the 250 is the OM651 four cylinder, where the 350 is the OM642 V6. The oil coolers are mounted differently between these cars. The V6s in particular get rather warm, and so the o-rings all perish pretty quickly, which is commonly why they fail. The 250s tend to fail internally between the passage jackets more often. Can't remember what brand I used last as it's been a while since I've had to fit one, incidentally lol Yeah, I had serviced my power steering at another time before that video, when I first bought the car, the pump was slightly noisy, so tried a fluid change.

@@AlexYeets Hello, Thank you for your reply for which I’m really appreciate. As I’m 71 and intend keeping the car I’ve wondered whether to stockpile spares likely to fail while available and not cheap Chinese copies. Since lockdown I’m only doing 4.5k annually but always restricting runs to 20-80 miles on Shell V Power. Unlike your C Class the rear subframe doesn’t suffer from corrosion if the internal square void is kept clear though my W201 which we’ve had since 97 shows some signs. That was treated to Bill Hammer’s wax which is available in a thick heavy duty wax or a light clear coat wax. Both are superior to Waxoyl which I’ve used since 76. The plastic fuel filter housing, and plastic inlet manifold are weak points. As for the OMG651 the timing chain as you know can slacken. Some advise changing at 160k though another suggestion is merely to test and change the steel tensioner. There are also videos of broken plastic chain guides!. I similarly use a CTEK battery charger though mine is possibly a later variant specifically designed for the glass battery. Personally I never use the Stop/Start system as I believe it damages the alternator and imposes an unnecessary strain merely to achieve the lower E.U. emissions directive. There are some interesting videos produced by Daimler on discovering oil leaks. First use Sonax and then a Contrast agent which you might find useful in your job. The vehicle is taken for a run and then the oil leak area’s are localised. Best Wishes. 👍🏻🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿

Drafted Spellcheck!. Bilt Hammer. So is it worth buying a complete Oil cooler and filter housing considering the labour costs involved especially as the original plastic filter housing has only two bolts( hence failure) while later ones came with 3. My car is a 2012 but I don’t know if the engine block has 2 holes or 3, though suspect that to be the later engine introduced with the W213. Thank you again for your time and help. I was very impressed with the methodical manner by which you went over your own vehicle. I try to do the same with my own though I’m not a mechanic just someone who appreciates quality and tries to keep it that way. 👍🏻

​@@Backwardlooking Yeah - considering the labour times, that's usually the biggest hit for any work on a car. Getting the full unit would always be the best idea - particularly when it comes to the diagnosis as well. It may take more time to say "oh, it's just the o-rings that's failed" rather than "it's the oil cooler" as it'd mean stripping it down and assessing it. So overall, I would recommend replacement of the oil cooler. By and large, they tend to fail shortly after the o-rings begin to fail regardless.

@@Backwardlooking I'd probably avoid stockpiling the bits as they can just naturally degrade. Things like o-rings, filters, plastics, rubbers, can all degrade and most times, you're better off buying an aftermarket item than a new-old one that's been sat for a while. Further on the point of the start-stop systems - The alternators don't get affected by it, the only thing that gets more wear is the starter motor. However, the starter motors are designed for it specifically and are rated to levels of magnitudes more starts than standard starter motors. The emissions standpoint is basically the only reason it's there to be honest, and it is kind of laughable. The CTEK chargers are the best chargers on the market in my opinion, and especially the pro-ones. All the CTEK chargers can deal with AGM batteries, though the latest black professional range can do Lithium ones, as well. All of the silver CTEK ones can charge any lead acid technology battery (SLA, EFB, Spiral AGM and flat plate AGM.) The feature for AGM is specifically to try and recondition those as they are a deeper-cycle battery - they can handle a deeper discharge like when used on stop-start cars, whilst using heated seats, infotainment systems, sat nav, blower motors, lighting, control units, etc. By and large, timing chains are not a serviceable component *as long as the car is maintained with regular oil changes*, so when they start to stretch, it's usually obvious with rattles on cold-starts or check engine lights intermittently. Essentially any cause for concern towards a timing chain fault is signifying it's due for replacement.

6.5l engine oil including filter - though as a service, you usually end up topping up by 5.5l.

Thank you! I'll be having another video up shortly, without the music.

I'd have to know precisely which gearbox it is to be accurate. If I had a registration number or vin number, I could find out for you. For example, mine has the 722.640 5 speed, which recommends the 236.14. This website will allow you to find what transmission code yours has. www.vindecoderz.com/EN/Mercedes-Benz "Comma ATF & Power Steering Fluid" is what I used, which meets all those you listed, and more. 7.5 litres is the named capacity, but if you don't drain the torque converter like me, it'll be less. Just have to make sure it's definitely right for the gearbox - run that vin decoder and tell me what numbers come up for your gearbox, and I'll be able to help you a bit further. 👍 (EDIT: Corrected a capacity value I entered incorrectly for mine, from 9l to 7.5l.)

@@AlexYeets thanks man, i got the following result for the Transmission "722640 07 605169 [transmissionType = GA]" .......under Aggregates "Automatic : 722640 07 605169 722.640 W 5 A 580 AT 5-SPEED" - thanks, handy site that

50nm for the diff and 20nm for the engine oil sump plug.

Gahh first person to call me out on it. I recorded the diff fluid draining but the camera was out of focus, so that footage was unusable. The bottom drain bung was slightly visibly damp in the video clip which is the only tell-tale.

@@AlexYeets haha, that was what I guessed, otherwise it could be a big problem. I can tell you really care about your customer’s car and pay attention to details. Great work, Thanks!

@@xxxqqq Much appreciated, if you're going to do the job, and you're going to say you can do the job, you should do the job properly. Just the way I've always looked at it.

Yeah, it's probably worth doing. They're pretty simple to do, there's nothing complex with it either, quite a nice job to do. Every four years I recommend for a car getting normal use. I'll probably be doing mine every year as I am doing crazy high miles.

@@AlexYeets mine has gotten very sluggish on gear change and bogging down on takeoff so want to see if it's something to do with the gearbox never been serviced, it's a 2009 so it's getting on now, thanks

Yup, that's the one. 646.811.

​@@AlexYeets the best of best 4 cyl diesel, i have the same and 0 oil leak

Toutes mes excuses, j'utilise google translate. Oui, il s'agit de la boîte de vitesses automatique à 5 rapports sur ce modèle. Apologies, using google translate. Yes, this is the 5-speed automatic gearbox on this model.

Quantum's Platinum plus 23 5w30 if I recall correctly, is a 229.52 MB specification oil so surpasses what the vehicle requires.

Long story short, yes - Tends to happen immediately on any diesel engine, especially older ones. Just one start-up and it looks like old oil again, but it's totally normal and expected. Once you run the engine for a few moments, the engine oil will turn completely black again. Diesels create a lot of soot and it will always naturally find it's way into the crankcase through Blowby. The soot mixing with the oil almost instantly pigments it. Plus, with the age of the car, it's natural that it will have slightly darker deposits from years of use. The main takeaway is that the oil's lubricity is restored when you replace the oil, no matter what colour it goes. The dilution of it's chemical properties are also restored to a very good standard with fresh fluids. Even an engine cleaner won't be able to clean an old diesel engine to the point of keeping engine oil gold.

@@AlexYeets thanks a lot 🙏🙏