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Yes,, they did a better job labeling the board also.. Look on the bottom of the board if it's not on top.

Hi Chis, I just used some cheap LED strip from the dollar store. It was about 3' long but could be cut to size. I think it was only $3-$5 with a remote.. I don't do anything fancy with the focus. I just set the height to the top of the glass like I would any other project and it works just fine for me.

@@viperdesigned so focal point is top of the glass? My lasers a neje its fixed focal at 25mm to surface, machine has a z axis so say I'm cutting 10mm I can set the beam in 5mm for first cut then 10mm second cut. I guess I'm going to have to play around and figure out if surface, middle or to the card-stock is best. Anyhow thanks for the prompt reply and excellent work and channel, you got a new sub.

Thats one reason I don't edit the videos. You see it just like I did it. 80mms works out great for me. What DPI/Lines are you using? 90/100 lines is all I use on glass.

That was done 2 years ago. Sorry to say, I haven't gotten much better. lol A little tough doing it all yourself.

Thank you for the comments and wish I had an answer for you. I have been hearing a lot of that and changing USB cables and/or using a different USB port seem to be the only advice I have seen. I am having the same issue with my 20w Pro. I will stop in the middle of a job and leave the laser running sometimes. Not dependable at all and afraid to use it. Have sent 3 messages to xTool and have not received a single reply yet.. If you hear of anything or find a cure, please let me know.

I'm not exactly sure what happened but I probably bumped the table or unit and didn't notice it at first. I was living dangerous doing the video and didn't have the laser or table mounted. Haven't seen that happen in any other projects.

You can make deeper cuts with a router or engraver giving more definition to the artwork. This is what can be done with a 10w laser. The finished piece is in a LED display stand. I cut the lights so it would show up better. They look pretty good on their own also.

Just for engraving. A diode laser won't cut clear acrylic.

Thank you! It does work. All I can imagine is It's so simple it couldn't possibly work lol.. I do them all the time just like this with great results. The only problem I have run into was buying cheap plastic. It wanted to pop little pieces out. I also do glass the same way. Works great and you get better details than you can using any type of masking.

@Viper Designed I'm in some groups, and people are still at this moment telling me to stop wasting my time. Your diode will never work with clear acrylic. I'm just getting into laser cutting and engraving. The lack of information on TH-cam is actually scary compared to other things. Keep up the good work 👏.

@@Naptownapollyon Just keep it to yourself and have some fun messing with them. Post a few pieces but don't tell how you did it or make something up lol.. "I coated it in the mud I mixed up after the last rain"... ROFLMAO!!

Hi Eric, That sounds pretty neat and look forward to seeing it. Those were the cheapest things you can do. I hot glued 3 dollar store picture frames together.. Cut the lip out of the middle one first and hot glued the LED strip there after it was all together. Simple and easy. You can get a frame with a piece of glass in it for about $3..

Have you tried restarting everything? Computer and all. Try it again. There is a Reset button on the board but it just resets the basic configurations, not firmware. There is a manual way to reset the firmware. I would check support.xtool.com for the current files and information on that. Hopefully a full restart does the trick.

It was only 25% power at 80mms for speed with a 10w. Haven't tried any on the 20w yet.

Unplug all the cables plugged into the board and try to turn it on. If it comes one, one of the wires was plugged into the wrong place. Other than that not much to them to go wrong. You can try the xTool D1 Official Group on Facebook. There are people hanging out there that may know something or have some connections to get you an answer.

@Viper Designed I've tried that,I think it happened when I downloaded lightburn on a 2nd computer, it work for a minute and then shut down and I can't turn it on since,I'm panicking now

@@MrShamrock56 Don't forget the Pros don't do anything (No Fans or anything) until you start a Frame or Cut. Didn't think mine was working at first..

Hi Joe, Thats what I'm talking about! :) People seem to think it is so difficult when it's one of the easiest projects you can do with the laser. I have a video doing this on acrylic. It's a little trickier and mostly depends on the grade of acrylic you get. Some of the cheap ones pop or flake pieces out. th-cam.com/video/kIlP8GzB87g/w-d-xo.html

Hi Wilson.. Thank you for the comments and interest trying it out. Air assist is useless on this process. The etching happens on the bottom side of the glass between it and the backer material. It's interesting to watch it happen.. Blowing air on it won't do anything but make the glass colder and increase the risk of shattering it. All materials have their limits and it doesn't matter how much wattage you throw at it. 10w does just fine and there is no advantage voltage wish to going with the 20w. There may be other features that might be useful depending on the amount of work you plan on doing with it...

@@viperdesigned thanks so much for the response! Best to you and yours.

There are more and better instructions on the website viperdesigned.com/laser/glassonthefly.html

Hi Dan, Thanks! I've been doing these long before the spray paint technique. They couldn't stand the smell.. lol The 'etching action' happens between the backing paper and the glass. The laser needs something to hit(focus on, some call it). It goes right through the glass. The oil or soap stay on and you engrave with it still on. It helps keep the glass a little cooler and helps move the smoke out from under the glass. It also helps with clean up after.

Thank you very much! Keep up your good work. Hugs from Brazil.

Hi Sammy,, That was some of the fun things we got with earlier software and firmware versions. Same machine hasn't done it since updating. You weren't supposed to notice! :)

Hi Jason, Yes. You are making a soap sandwich. It goes between the acrylic and your backer piece. Have seen some using a piece of spray painted metal for a backer. Have not tried it yet but seems to work and the metal is reusable.

Speeds and settings should be about the same, but I haven't tried it yet. I will get XCS this weekend with try it with a new 20w Pro and see what we get..