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Clayton -Pepe LePew- Baker
United States
เข้าร่วมเมื่อ 10 มิ.ย. 2008
My FPV name is Pepe LePew. I flew for several years for Cinci Quad Racers, racing quads obviously :) Now I have turned my love for the sport to Flying wings.
As of late, I know have my passion back for the shooting sports and love the rimfire precision side of life now :)
As of late, I know have my passion back for the shooting sports and love the rimfire precision side of life now :)
Slow-Mo Jard Trigger Pull 3.5oz
Was playing around with slow mo on my phone to see what happens during trigger pull :)
มุมมอง: 115
Pursuit of accuracy
Looks like the sound from chain
I have a CZ 457 in .17 HMR.(bull barrel) I used it for a Metal Pig matches at 235 yards with great success. However, a few months ago after a shooting event, I clean the barrel and apparently the cleaning tip came unscrewed in the barrel and I did not catch it. The next time I went to shoot it, B A N G! the mag blew apart, Cracked my wood stock in two places, When I got it home, I used a wood dowel rod to force out the two pieces. After a new KRG Stock at 75 yards was shooting good groups so I though it was in good shape. Well the next match comes in and I start sighting in with a very light wind and the bullets was hitting here there and everywhere. I asked CZ to check my barrel as no one around here has a bore scope for the .17 HMR. CZ refused to even look at it unless it was in the original everything. So I ended up with the $550 Lilija Chrome Match Barrel. Followed their break in to a point. Took it out last week and Severe wind and we could only score on the swingers as the wind was blowing thee metal pigs off the rail. As of today, I've not been able to get to a range where I can shoot out to the 235 yards to see what grouping I'm getting with the new barrel and the KRG Stock. So two questions... Does the break in on the new barrel really make a difference. And # 2, Would you like to have the barrel? Knowing or not knowing the condition. Ig you would pay the shipping you can have it for free if you would let me know one way or the other if the barrel was damaged or not. Maybe I just got a bad batch of ammo. I don't remember what I was shooting when they flew way off target. Otherwise, I guess it will be a Stake in the ground for a fence stiffener! Very disappointed in CZ and I the 457 in .22 and the Mag, all in bull barrels!
Pete is my favorite Michigan retailer. Its hanging with my Acculite so far. Sorry for not much info. I only have 50 yards to shoot at just got my range pass for Mount Pleasant Michigan yesterday so hopefully I can give you some data on the barrel as well. I put the VQ blow forward .860 comp on it and it was still shooting great at 50. Cci
I got a ticking on a vn2000. Just started this summer.
I am considering buying a 13-year-old 2010 Kawasaki Vulcan voyager 1700 with 13 K miles. I actually put a video on TH-cam of the noises coming from that engine. Lots of ticking, and another sign that sounds like a chain being dragged over a hollow pipe. I have been doing a lot of research here on TH-cam. It seems to be a fact that these are very clicky ticky noisy engines.. some people seem to think that having them sit and not doing frequent oil changes makes the lifter noise more prominent… Back 1 V wagon made air cooled 4 cylinder beetles. Those engines did not have Oil filters. And they held not too much oil. Back then the thing to do was to put in half a cup of kerosene and run the engine for about 20 minutes before doing an oil change. Just get the engine, hot, put in half a cup of kerosene, run it for about 15 minutes , then let the oil drain out for more than half an hour. I used to let mine drain overnight. That was a way to get the gum varnish and sludge out of the inside of that engine. So when you put the new oil in, it wouldn’t turn black right away since those engines have no oil filter… Now that may sound irresponsible, but many additives that were on the market back in the 70s 80s, and still today, some of them are 90% kerosene..
On my 2000 Nomad 1500 I fixed some noises by a)securing lower chrome decoration piece on front exhaust pipe-'tinny' sound b)servicing timing chain tensioners with updates (spacers)-rattle in engine c)rear passenger seat backrest latch-rattle, finally, d)speedo head rattling - making a tinny rattling sound from front. I pushed down on it when at worst and noise went away. Wrking on that now. Last noticed a slight lifter noise, but not too excited by it. You tuber says go with 10w40 full synthetic with 500ml of Marvel Mystery oil. We'll see.
I have that ticking noise as well in my 800
That idle seems really high
My 05 mean streak sounds exactly the same way. Thing that drives me crazy is that the sound will disappear and I can ride for almost 100 miles in the engine is very quiet and then it comes back again. After 25 to 30 miles it gets quiet again. This noise drove me crazy and I actually removed my motor, and inspected the hydraulic lifters. I cleaned them out and re-primed them only to have the same results. What freaks me out is this is an intermittent noise. It does not do it all the time. End it does not matter if I’m riding at highway speeds or warming it up first thing in the morning The clicking will start gradually and then increase in sound. Then it will disappear like it never happened. If anybody has any ideas what causes this,I would love to know. I think today I am going to remove the oil lines that run along the cylinders that lubricate the top end, and clean them out. If that works I will comment back to let you know.
Mike, the only way I found to remove the noise (as well as many others) was to install the cam chain tensioners
@@cbj223 those were corrected when I had the engine out of the bike also reed valves have been deleted.
@@mikelissandrello7655 well then I'm not sure what else to offer. Typically that sound is noise made when the cam chains slap the spark plug tunnels. If you added the extenders then its possible it is not the cam chains unless you have a lot of miles on the bike and the chains are stretched beyond help. If during disassembly if the tunnels did not show signs of wear then the only other thing would be the oil ways are clogged and the ticking is a result of less oil in the valve area. There are some videos out there on this but for the life of me I cannot remember the part that gets clogged up in the valve area. I haven't had my Nomad in over 6 years. I went up to a VN 2000 about a year or so after this video.
www.ebay.com/itm/Cam-Chain-Tensioner-Extenders-Kawasaki-Vulcan-Nomad-1500-1600-Suzuki-M95/114366945374?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
I have the same problem..
Dvr recording in board no?
Runcam dvr
nice vid dude . loved it..iv sub you 59 if you can do the same that be great..cheers
Done my friend and thanks
@@cbj223 i thank you so much👍 Great channel my freind 👍😀👍
@@cbj223 Tnx bro
Awesome!! Now get a panning camera mount
Going to work on that...any suggestions?
Nice man!
That’s crazy! Goggles down! Awesome job!
Thanks Brother
Freaking sweet dude
Thanks, it was a bit ugly but she's off and running lol
GYSOT!
good camera view!⚡
Use some wd-40 on the contacts, I guarantee it will work again
Sorry, Cam chain tensioners removed the clicking.
Can you upload a video of it running after you replaced the cam chain tensioners, mine sounds the same
Hello, what was the problem ?
What noise? I hear only normal idle motor noise...
You get your ears checked my friend
That is a perfect maiden.
Awesome flight
What settings are you using for the quad in the simulator. I can not get it to fly good?
I have a bunch of screenshots of the settings I personally use that I can share. One thing that helps many people is to make sure that your Dead Zone settings for throttle are set to zero and roll pitch and yaw are lower than defaults. This may help any floating floating feeling you get and maybe help your controls become more crisp along with your own rate settings. But when you say its not flying good could you be more specific?
Clayton Baker, yeah I think the dead zones are most of the issues that I'm have. What about quad weight, down force and all. Did you adjust anything in those settings?
Not too much but off top of head I'm not 100% positive. I have it flying to my style now and can re-screenshot the current settings and send to you at an email address? It will likely be tonight or maybe tomorrow night?
Hi Clayton, i have been trying to get a good tune for racing in velocidrone and have not been successful so far, would you be able to share the screenshots of your setting. Appriciate your help .
cant find a download for this track.
Davey this particular map should be found in the open scenery section of Velocidrone in the downloads. However this is not the "Official" track that was MGP authorized. This one was one of the 1st that came out, shortly after posting I found the one that is going to be used for the Qualifiers later in the year. The Official map is located within the Football Stadium scenery and is marked Official MGP 2018 RQ. Be aware however there are 2 maps closely named in the same scenery for download, be sure to grab the one marked Official.
Davey Knowlton, if you pay for the full version. It's on it.
Yes, you are doing it correctly. I find the gate indicators help to make it more obvious when you have gone through a gate properly.
Well mostly was of interest is the way I had to turn as going through the top section into the bottom. If I dived straight into it, it would not activate.
That is a really, really bad twitch. If you haven't soft-mounted your FC, try that. But this is way worse than I usually see from gyro twitching.
Thanks Joshua, Furious ended up calling it quits and sent me a replacement board. I agree as well I have never experienced that level of twitch even on the older Naze boards
Have exactly same issue with this FC, softmout and filtering cant solve it :-/
Jan have you contacted them recently? After several emails to them in light of troubleshooting they agreed to replace the board. I too tried soft mounting FC and Motors and it only reduced it very little. I spent better than a week making changes to PIDs, Filtering and BLHeli with no major change
You think , or they found it as issue ? I did some test this evening (soft mount dissasembly and assembly tru whole day) and as you said, soft dont almost change it, and filters looks like no change at all. I hoped for some solution, not replacing :-/. But if they found it as issue , i will need to do same. IT is wierd i hoped these boards will not have problems with yaw (i think) twitching / gyro kicking.
I didnt contact them , spend this day on searchin for solution.
I have problem only around 40-50 percent of throttle.
have you drop the yaw pids?
Run some SeaFoam in it just before an oil change. Try not to pull the clutch leaver so it doesnt get into the clutch plates. It could also be the Cam chain Tensioner which is a non return type device. It can be in a position that is a bit loose and about to click into the next position. I wouldnt worry about it turn up the tunes or get a louder exhaust.
lol yes sir hehe
You cutout the ending. I feel cheated.
Yes sir it was. I will be going back
Looks like a nice place to fly Clayton
Yes you do
I know that 'copter!
Thanks for sharing : )
They all have that clicking noise in the 1500 & 1600 Vulcan engines after awhile of use. It is the HLA's are worn out some and not pumping up fully anymore. HLA = Hydraulic Lash Adjuster or Hydraulic Valve Lifter.
Can the valves be adjusted maybe to fix it