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Have you heard of a t9 and t10 they are pretty common in my country

hi I've just brought a power roller, how do i wire it up for home use

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The Ampera Mini and Midi have now been discontinued, replaced with Evo versions which look much worse. Only the Ampera Maxi remains in production.

Hi this looks relly cool. i want one were did you get from? It look asome

What about if my switch it's not working

Hi, can you set these things so they automatically cycle between different departure points? For example, a bus stop and a railway station for a minute each?

I know how annoying EOL preheat (a.k.a. switch-start) fluorescent lights can be.

yes, the colors of the Rubik's cube do show up on the LED, but the LPS lamps are less glarey.

In my city in Poland there are a lot of sodium and mercury lamps, LEDs are placed only when there are new lamps, but old lamps are not dismantled and they shine better than LEDs

It was only in the last couple of years I removed 2 very similar lights from my kitchen, made by Fitzgerald, they were 2 foot model LPF20 that I originally installed in 2001, and they were end of line way back then too, the last of the T12 models. I bought a fair few Philips MCFE 20W white tubes, and still have some of them left. I only removed them as they run 24W per fitting, with about 6W of that as losses from the magnetic ballast. The ballasts fitted were 18W rather than 20W and I think this may have been why my tubes lasted so long, as they were being effectively under driven so operated at less stress than if they were run with 20W ballasts. Even so, when new, until they reached about 2/3 of they though their lives, they would start instantly with no work needed from the starter. It was only after they had fairly high hours that they would fail to strike instantly and the starter was needed. The T12 tubes in this length would mostly all instant start, but T8 tubes would not, and these would always need the starter to strike them, so I stuck with the T12 tubes for over 20 years. I finally removed the fittings and replaced them with standard bayonet bulb holders running 4W LED filament bulbs, so in total 8W between the 2 bulbs and these produce almost the same level of light. However, had the price of electricity not gone through the roof in 2021, I would probably have left the old T12 fittings up until my supply of tubes had run out. As it is, I still must have about 8 of the T12 Philips tubes, from around 2001 - they have date codes 9G (July 1999), J1 (Sept 2001), and E1 ( May 2001) on them, so some of the last 2 foot T12 tubes made before they became obsolete. It is still nice and nostalgic to see an old T12 fitting running a magnetic ballast and starter - they were such a staple of everyday life back when I was growing up in the 80's, 90;s and even into the 2000's, but sadly, all but extinct now, as you just cant get the tubes for them any more, being long obsolete now.

My 2D lamp flickers when it turns on despite it being new, any ideas why?

one of my favorite led lanterns i do have ampera and it does work it also has a plug on it and a video will be made on it soon

Where do you get the Hanover controllers from

Nice

how do you make sony trinitron accept digital signal from the box?

You know how to change the bright in the panel?

Looks good and I like the colour blue off the lava lamp it's looks brilliant,

We should use yellow LED lights for streets.

Nice project. I will always prefer plasma lamps, including fluorescent lamps over boring ugly chinese LEDs.

I just got one last night one of those light fixtures,

Watching this video while my T8 18 wattTungsram is undergoing EOL too

Looks good an cool LEDs downlight.

see you soon 👨🏿‍🦳

As it got X6 Burbage & 625 Lutterworth via Rugby School Run

He said its not that bad 😂 those things you are touching are called bearing caps

where did you get the programming lead from?

Can you do my route dispite being in Malta? Route 221 Ic-Cirkewwa to Bugibba Via St. Pauls Bay

Is it just me or is there no gasket

Nice cooling passages!

I'm all for saving fluorescent equipment as well now, yes LEDs are available but most LEDs do not have user replaceable bulbs, so when the thing dies, you have to replace the whole fitting. Not ideal if you're not, or don't know, an electrician! Also note the color code of 535. The leading 5 means a color rendering index (CRI) of only 50%! That's not good!

How do you cancel or do a refund?

Good that they keep everything else. Here in Cambridgeshire everything was replaced except the sign. A complete new column and lantern was fitted, with the old sign remounted. It was a shame as there were some really old ones about. One locally still had traces of black and white bands on the column, meaning it predated the 'new' 1964 traffic signs regulations. Re the starter switches: the best type to use are the 155/200 (FS-2, S2 or PGS2) type for 4-22w lamps. They have a much lower closure voltage, and softer contacts, for longer preheating at the low current these miniature tubes run at. The tubes will last longer if switched frequently.

I have one that I converted to preheat it takes 2 4 pin cfls they work fine

I really miss the old LPS SOX type street lights - they used to be everywhere when I was young, but now you hardly see them at all, apart from the odd very old ones that sometimes crop up in rural areas and villages, but even these are now being changed for LED ones. I did have to go a different route the other week and ended up on a road I haven't used for a while, but there were so many old Philips MA50 with remote gear street lights it was like going back in a time warp to the 1980s / 1990's all over again - so much monochrome orange. That road is the A5013 road leading towards Eccleshall straight as you exit the M6 junction 14 roundabout between there and Great Bridgeford. And pretty much every one of the them was working as well, so Staffordshire County Council must still have some 135W Sox lamps left in stock to keep them going. Those old lamps would last years and years, unlike today's LED lights. In Stoke on Trent where I live, we still have quite a lot of HPS street lights on the main roads, including the main A500 between J15 and J16 of the M6, but most of the side roads now are on LED. It is very rare in Stoke to see any SOX lights left, but as I say, that road between the M6 J14 and Great Bridgeford, there are tons of the old 80's MA50's and they pretty much all work.

The date code on the Philips tube is indeed 8G. The month is always the alpha character with A being January and running through to M for December, so in this case G is July. The decade is obtained from whether the number is at the start or the end of the code. Every 10 years, the number switches round. It is at the beginning of the date code in the 2010s, the 1990's, and the 1970's. It is at the end in the 2000's, the 1980s and the 2020's. So, here, your tube is 8G, so it could be either July 1978, July 1998, or July 2018. You have to make a guess to which one it would be, and from the fact that they never made T12 tubes in 2018, it must be 1998 or 1978. Looking at the printing on the tube, I dont think they had the CE mark in 1978, nor that style of printing, so I would say the tube dates to July 1998. Had the date code been E1 for example, then that could have made the manufacture date May (E) 2001, as the number being at the end of the code makes the decade 80s, 00's or 20's. The round circle with the dot in was the country of manufacture symbol for the UK, used by Philips at the time. Different countries had different symbols. I have a couple of 20W Philips T12 tubes here from 1999 made in Poland, which use a square symbol with its bottom edge removed as the country code. I dont know the exact way to date the dash and dot system from the other manufacturer. The top tube is likely the newest as it shows the relatively modern RoHS and bin symbol, meaning dont dispose of in household waste as it is Restriction of Hazardous Substances - ie, it contains mercury and should be disposed of at a waste recycling centre. Colour code on the Philips and GE is 35, which is universal, or just simply standard white (3500K) and low CRI, meaning they were the old fashioned, harsh halo-phosphor type. The top one has colour code 835 so is still plain white, but the 8 denotes high CRI, tri-phosphor coating, so it would produce a much better quality light that would bring out colours in objects much better. Warm white is 3000K. Extra warm white (used for most CFL's) is 2700K or 827 for high colour rendering. Cool White I think is 5000K and Daylight is 6500K Interesting though as the power of the 8 foot tube is 100W. You would have thought as it was double the length of a 4 foot tube it would be double the power usage of a 4 foot T12 which used 40W, so it would have theoretically been 80W for double the length of a 4 foot tube, but an 8 foot uses an extra 20W on top for the same effective length. I suppose that would have been balanced out by cheaper install and relamping costs as only half the number of lamps and fittings would have been needed to cover a given area needing lighting.

Filament in the blackened end has burnt out and opened the circuit, so starter will never engage. If the filament was shorted out by wrapping a small piece of wire round the pins on that end, the lamp would again flash on the starter, but would likely not stay lit due to complete lack of emissive coating on the filament - which was why the lamp failed in the first place. Rated life of the old type T5 8w tubes was around 5000 hours, but if it was on continuously 24 hours a day, it would often exceed this rating. Life would be reduced if the lamp came on and went off each day on a light sensor, as each startup would burn more emissive coating off the filaments and shorten the life than if the tube was turned on and left on for its entire lifetime. In many instances, once the filament opens at EOL, the lamp would still run but would flicker at mains frequency ( on a magnetic ballast that is) for many hours before the other end of the tube runs out of emitter and then the tube would not light at all. The other mode of failure is the more usual depletion of emissive coating on one end of the tube causing the tube to repeatedly strike on the starter, until that filament goes open circuit, and then you end up with the scenario you have in your video. T5 tubes of this length often start instantly without the starter following switch on, and even if the tube has failed, rubbing a finger along the tube provides enough persuasion to make the tube light up. This usuallly does not work with longer tubes or any type of T8 tube. Some old T12 20W tubes of the 2 foot length would often start instantly as well without needing a starter, as I used to have 2 of these fittings in my kitchen and they would fire up instantly when switched on, until the tubes got older and then they started needing the starter to get them going.

Nice,

I fix so many like this at the moment 🤑🤑🤑🤑🤑🤑🤑

if the bulb is inside the case, they take longer to avoid heating up and building vapor pressure. cfls without the plastic case do not have this issue since they are passively cooled

It's July 2024 and I just purchased this exact model from a Charity shop for £5 ... 😊

Speaking about quality on like LED

is the WIX'S twin a T-profile or a complete box?

there are RUBIKS cubes in your troffer!!!

Sorry...

Sorry...

nice

1:40 furry 💀

Nice to see its been missed should leave it if it atill works

I love these bulbs