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I cannot understand the BOM of this board. The one on PCBWay downloads an HTML file but when I open it with HTML viewer I get a useless page.

Would be very interested in getting 1 or 2 of these with extended color basic on for the coco 1.

Fantastic work. Many Retronerds like me will be very interested in this. Would love to test this out for you but sadly i'm in the uk so probably too far. I have many projects on my list with TI99/4A, Dragon 32, Dragon 64, Oric 1 which actually needed a very slimline adapter like yours. The forums arcade museum will also be very interested in this.

Such a good tutorial, more youtubers need to go to this level of detail, can`t go wrong!!

Nice work! These will be helpful.

Very cool! Looking forward to seeing it on your GitHub page. You should include the direct link to the PCWay site

Seems like a really nice piece of hardware - thanks for the detailed walkthru, and for helping the developer out with the bugfixing.

can you do how to connect to a bbs using this wifi emu68?

Very comprehensive training video, thank you. I've encountered a ramlib >program failed (error #80000006) software failed error as soon as Query Device button is clicked at 21.25 in your demo. Then, there is no choice but to reboot and go through Miami setup again, only to encounter the same error. Any suggestions? I can't be the only one this has happened to. Under CaffeineOS WiFi works perfectly. A1200, PiStorm32 Lite RPi3b

What an epic score!

Clever placement of that "subscribe" graphic.

Who did notice the SSID of the modem-router? 🙃 Thank you for the detailed explanations.

Finally!!!!!!!!!!! A great tutorial without hidden parts and easy to follow, not skipping a single step! Thank you so much!!!!!!!! You got a new sub

How's the latency?

Nice video but why not install P96 and use RTG GFX for Workbench ? Makes it so much nicer to use and could be another video too.

Thats very useful thanks for sharing

I'd heard the GAL PLA had been tested with the Super Zaxxon cart and that it worked perfectly. Can you remember where you heard there was an issue? The MOS logic chips are so cheap to replace, I'd just replace all of them even though I don't really like just replacing chips.

Looked like Aminet had Descent? Very cool vid! Nice clear screen for us to see.

Excellent! How does this differ from a RoadShow install?

:)

Replace the 2 orange film caps with tiny TDK box film caps.

Another common failure is the RAM. The original power supply Commodore provided were prone to failure. One indication is the 5v rail. As the power supply ages, the voltage tends to rise. If it rises beyond 5.2 volts, then the RAM chips are the first to go. It’s usually best to test the power supply every so often and replace it when it does go bad.

adjust your brightness and contrast under the left side (like the power switch is under the right side).

The heavy lid was a sound shield. It was unbearable without it. Just noticed the darkness adjustment. The user could move the head closer to milk every last drop of ink. A single pin head struck a 7 position drum behind the paper. Did not know about the spring loaded head return. Motors were so expensive in those days, a single motor was all you got. The clutch seems to also send power to the tractor feed when the head retracts.

Looks like the RAM is going or bad caps

The vic chip is probably fine. Try adjusting the variable capacitors on the video circuit…..some vic chips have trouble with new monitors

Not every earliest revision was silver label….that one looks like already had the timer mod done, the bodge wire..which is a good thing.

360p video - bummer. Happy Easter.

I got Mole Attack at a local vintage game shop along with 4 or 5 other VIC-20 carts. I showed Mole Attack to my kids and let's just say they were underwhelmed.

You can replace the 6522’s with brand new ones from WDC for $10 each.

What a score!

What a score!

Near letter quality

Looks like the cover was missing from the spiral-bound book. That came with the computer, I believe. The better (more in-depth) programming VIC-20 book was twice as thick and was GBC bound with a white plastic comb. Nice finds!

Looks great. Any measurements for the cut out to slide in the lcd?

I have switched to using Oxiclean laundry pretreatment spray for Retrobrighting. Spray it on and set it in the sun. It is a thick and stays on the case. Just need to go out and re-spray it once in a while. For the keys put some duck tape on cardboard sticky side up and stick the keys to it then spray oxiclean on them.

Extreme Moisture, Humidity turns these things Yellow. Some people say the sun but I have to disagree.

Check out C0pperdragon's VICdigitizer (LumaCode) for Commodore 128. It's a simple, solderless (but better with a little soldering) FPGA shim that goes into the VIC socket, under the existing chip, outputting a digital signal over the existing RF output. That RF out plugs into a cheap RGB2HDMI box based on Raspberry Pi Zero. The chip (which you'll need for each computer you want to convert to digital video out) is US$39, and you only need to build a single RGB2HDMI box for about US$75. I just got my Atari 1200XL, which had terrible jailbars, converted to amazing, clear HDMI out through this solution. th-cam.com/video/fbkJCWFwEmQ/w-d-xo.html

judging from the shape of those discolouration, those to me are all stickers, you can see the case has yellowing

The future for retro computers could be to replace the entire case and keys to avoid flame retardents from old cases and keys.

This happened to me when I retrobrighted a Commodore 128. I have some ideas to fix it, but after fixing the marbling I'd likely need to re-retrobright it. We'll see what happens when I try again.

Please don’t call this an “arcade”. It’s an arcade “game”. An arcade was a room/place/space that contained many “arcade” games.