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www.zehnderamerica.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/11/ComfoWell-Filter-Installation-1.pdf

www.zehnderamerica.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/Zehnder-User-Manual-ComfoAir160-200-350-550-2014.pdf

@@PassiveHouseCody thank you I appreciate, nice vid by the way 💪🏼💪🏼

I may have misspoke in the video and I flew threw the details several years back. I surmise you're correct in finding an error on how the bypass works. It is indeed for efficiency in preserving the desired indoor set temp. Thank you.

Bypass means no recovery of temperature. Usually good unless you're cooling in a heating season. www.zehnderamerica.com/benefits/summer-bypass/

@@PassiveHouseCody thank you!

I did not. Both of them out of the box were at 160 CFM? 24% delta from specification though.

We have a really high quality Carbon Filter mainstreamcorporation.com/index.php?option=com_eshop&view=product&id=48&catid=3&Itemid=526 You might place a sprinkler activated by smoke outside by the intake grill :) Here's a video of the M15 with Carbon box th-cam.com/video/Kahn54qc9s8/w-d-xo.htmlsi=S7QSGyPGtXGdMwQN

Sounds like you may want to power cycle and re-boot. Everything OFF. Turn Modem on. Turn ERV on. Give it a minute and try the Ap again making sure you're connected to the correct network. Call your Zehnder Tech Support and schedule a time to trouble shoot.

You can pop the display face off. Be careful, it's meant to replace if needed. Service manual here to reference first www.zehnderamerica.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/ComfoAir_Q_Service_Zehnder-America_EN_2022.05.18.pdf

clarify eha..? Q units have a mid-sensor and an upper sensor.

@@PassiveHouseCody i have this error on plc: SENSOR_EHA ERROR SENSOR_ EHA ERROR

@@simoneredoglio4916 you'll want to have 6.10 open and handy :) itsh a little deep. That's a fan error. Pg. 39 www.zehnderamerica.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/ComfoAir_Q_Service_Zehnder-America_EN_2022.05.18.pdf

You’ll need option box and Lan-c for each unit. During commissioning, you’ll rename the ERVs to differentiate which one you control at a time on the app. Thanks.

Thanks@@PassiveHouseCody

Zehnders can be both with a change of a core and a switch of an option. ERVs do a little more and cost a little more.

There are three options 1. intermittent fans (bath fans) 2. continuous ventilation 3. a mix of bath fans, with ERV tied to furnace. This example uses option 2. in the HERS report, so it makes the assumption to be on all the time.

It doesn't. Green is Lower than 800ppm, Yellow 800-1200ppm and RED if over 1200ppm

Thanks! That's too bad. I guess it ramps to a medium-high speed? at 800ppm and boost mode? when over 1200ppm. Much better than nothing, and I guess ensures that a user who doesn't know what they're doing doesn't get away from ASHRAE ventilation code too much. I kinda like the Fantech CO2 sensor that switches to a high speed based on a user-selected setpoint. Or wish I could send a 2-10 volt signal to the Zehnder fans from a Vents-us proportional 2-10, 0-2000 ppm CO2 sensor.

@@geertaerts977 unlike Fantech you can tell the Zehnder what CFM each speed is ;) so you can make a medium speed signal, high speed.

Is that true for the CA200 as well as the 350Q? I only have a 1440 sf house so could use both.

yes both units and you can also set what the auto default speed is on both units Q & CA @@geertaerts977

Both CA and Q units are the most quiet on the market due to the motors and EPP custom molded housing. Thanks

That made our day. You are very welcome friend.

Try and reference this manual on the language change. www.zehnderamerica.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/11/ComfoSense-Controller.pdf

Once the Q is commissioned correctly it prefers to stay balanced. So if a door opens or closes; or a small exhaust influences the balance, the Q series speeds up or slows down fans. Here is an excellent resource on good technique on installation. www.zehnderamerica.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/09/Zehnder-Installation-Manual-9.20.19.pdf

@@PassiveHouseCody Thanks. This document mentions an already insulated ComfoPipe, but in your video, it shows a black sleeve. Are these different components?

@@jessicaeasto In an advanced wall assembly there are several layers. In the video you see black comfopipe going through a wall hole that has been taped with ProClima Contiga Solido Exo from exterior Air Barrier To interior Drywall forming a water proof penetration for the comfopipe to rest in. Good eyes!

I never wired the emergency heat strips. They have no power. Both gas and electricity doubled this year and the cost of furnace was close to heat pump. I’ll note the power bump in another segment. Thank you.

Can you clue is in to the make and model so we can look it up!?!

Just get a cold climate system. My manufacturer ratings are down to -22° F.

Thank you Michele. I would balance if possible; however it's engineered to not cause resistance. Cheers

Without a doubt it's like cracking a window without losing the heat/cool and without gaining the dust! Plus it helps people to not breath in the dog's air too :) We figure 6-10 CFM/person. In the exercise room we figure 15-20CFM per person working out.

Thanks for asking. Many people like to have the C67 in the kitchen or by another heating/cooling thermostat. Many like the app when they're away from the cabin for example. They can see temps and humidity levels and know exactly what the air is doing inside. Likewise, MainStream can see all our client's units remotely for troubleshooting. That said, many also do not get an extra controller. They use the controller on the face of the Q or the app. Breathe Clean and Easy--Cody

@@PassiveHouseCody Cody, thank you for your response. I have been looking through what you offer on your website. I am leaning toward a Zehnder unit for our build. Wondering if you have many home owners who do the install themselves vs having the HVAC contractor install it. Without running any real numbers, I feel like I could install the Zehnder system myself and come out even with a better unit, than if I had the HVAC contractor install a lesser quality/capable unit.

@@south_coast Great comments and questions. A quick back story: We started green building in 2004, when a mentor told us if we GC our own project we could save 10%-20% right off the bat. From our research, that was also the cost to upgrade buildings to ' Green, NetZero, Passive House.' From that moment on we put the power in the owner's hands with education AND installation support. Owners install these systems best because industry installers haven't caught up yet, cut corners and are budget driven NOT results. Owners are results driven and not happy when it's compromised. MOST installers do not understand Zehnder can't be substituted because of efficiency, horsepower, quietness AND it's the only unit with a built-in pre-heater. The only unit for the rocky mountain climate. Further most subs do not understand precision extraction and delivery, 3" ducting to Manifold. Meaning they're okay diluted fresh air or not using airtight ducting, which is the ComfoTube/ComfoFlex . So yes. You can install it, you do not need a license and you'll do it best! Commissioning will ensure you did it correctly, which Zehnder is the only manufacturer that insists commissioning in order to substantiate the warranty. From design, install support, to QA; you'll get it right because you began with the end in mind.

This was an HRV, no preheater, set to auto (likely warm). For a quick efficiency calc. we ask how much of the 65.5F was remaining of the 71.2F temp that left and it looks to be .9199. (92% remaining temp in the new filtered air) Thank you.

@@PassiveHouseCody For the Comfosense C55 controller, the auto bypass on our Q450 shows as OPEN even in winter yet the main menu on the unit shows the status of the BYPASS as 0%. We want to be satisfied that the auto BYPASS is closed in winter. Is there a way to check this from the other control options available on the Zehnder?

@@colinhuelin567 If you're using the app on your network and also the status on either control. Also you'll have horrible recovery if it's winter air mixing with the warm air. So looking at your screen as see in this video you'll be able to see good or bad efficiency. Submit something more formal to your sales originator or our website. Thank you.

I do, however I'm not sure how to post in a reply here for all. Email from LiveUtilityFree.com and I'll send you some. Thank you.

Becky you need some de-humidification appliance and Still an ERV is best as it will reject some of the exterior humidity from coming in; where as HRV brings in what ever is outside dry or humid. Your tiny is no-doubt getting vapor loaded. Thank you.

@@PassiveHouseCody thank you for this. Follow up question... I understand that in the winter time when the ERV with hold the moisture so that it can be released back into the house... is this true even when the moisture level in the house is considerably more than the outside... with it vent that out some? Also I heard that there were units with swappable cores and was wondering if you know of any as I cant find any online and if so I need a unit that is suited for my 200 sq ft tiny house?

@@beckysmith7517 Humidity will gravitate to what ever is less AS it relates to temperature. A core swap will not help. You need a de humidification OR a way to remove it completely from coming in. One humidity is at the desired level, the ERV will try to conserve it. A mini-split while in heating or cooling mode dehumidifies the air. A gas flame creates humidity.. A Zehnder CA160 is a good option for a robust ERV.

Thank you, there are micro holes between each strand of industrial recycled plastic strands; which are fairly large under a microscope.

That's a big questions now isn't it? If it's dry air, probably would be less a concern. If it's humid inside and pushing that into our wall assembly; we would want to look at that instance and thus depends. Do you have a local Passive House group?

@@PassiveHouseCody Hi and thank you for taking the time to reply. Things have changed somewhat, since i wrote you. I have added a wholehome dehumidifier to the mix. And it would be great, to get your advice on this and the Pa levels. Or you could send me packing. I would like to place the dehumidifier near an exterior wall and make the outside air, its sole return - then duct directly to the supply side of the Zehnder. From there, the ERV would deliver dryer, cleaner air to the rooms. The bad air would be brought back to the ERV, as normal. I'm guessing, I could tweak the CFM levels on the ERV to reach an acceptable Pa? I am also assuming, the dehumidifier fan, would be disabled? Would that be acceptable? No, we don't have a Passive group nearby.

@@davidbruce5377 we test the Air Tightness and offset the supply side to meet that IF possible. The ERV wants what is most native inside; which in your climate you'll be drying with dehumidification and preserving that via ERV precision extraction and delivery. I think your idea sounds worth a try. I slight pressurization with dry air sounds good from far. It all depends however on other factors. Sources of internal humidity and frequency for one. Probably best to email us.

@@PassiveHouseCody Hi, here is what Santa Fe said; The dehumidifier still has to work regularly like it normally would. Regardless if ERV supply is going into the Dehu, or dehu supply is going into ERV, the air volume/power/speed needs to be as close to each other as possible. For example, for our 70 pint, cfm rating is 150. If the intake/return air is coming into the unit, and it’s not 150 cfm, it’s going to reduce the performance of the dehumidifier because it’s not using the proper amount of air. If the amount coming into dehu is more than 150, there is too much air, and not all air is going to be dehumidified, it is over capacity for what the unit can handle, force feeding more air than it can handle. The same holds true for the ERV, it’s not catastrophic either if it’s not enough air, it just mathematically reduces the capacity of the unit. Again in this case, too much air overwhelms the ERV if not equipped for 150 cfm. With all that being said, we also don’t want to recommend the UA 70 be used for just fresh air intake, as it won’t dehumidify enough with just one air pass through dehu. We would want to make sure that the dehu Is in fact getting return air from house.

Check to make sure the preheater is chosen under the P menu and that there are no preheater errors. If the preheater was supposed to turn on and didn't there would be an error like A7

@@PassiveHouseCody Thanks. At first I was afraid though mine didn’t have a preheater, but I checked the manual and it has. In previous maintenance I was stupid enough to be a careless when tidying the wires, which obstructed the flap. Perhaps that was it. Hopefully it is fixed now. Settings P51 and P72 in order now. Many thanks for putting me on the right track!

Strange... I can 🤔🙄🙄

More dependent on Bathroom to Bedroom ratio but ~ 2500-5000 SQFT it's the largest before jumping into commercial Ventacity units. Thank you.

Typically up to about 3400 sf.

It's only audible on high speed. There is no substitute for fresh air.

I have it in my tiny house and I'm VERY sensitive to white noise. Only on exhaust mode does it bother me, but that's for a short period of time. While it's running on low I don't notice it and can't hear it when I sleep. I'm really happy to have continuous fresh air when all of my windows are closed in the winter.