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@@MilitaryTVgirl We’re glad this was helpful! Thank you for the feedback!

Polymer-modified can be used for a scratch coat (and it is required for the thinset when used with Speedymason lath), however, those installing traditional wire mesh usually uses Type-S cement or Type-N mortar for their scratch coat.

If one were to only use Type-N or Type-S mortar over wire mesh, you would be correct in your assessment. However, the Ultra-Speed method works because it is installed over the Speedymason lath panel (which has guides that perfectly meter out the amount of mortar behind the bricks) and requires a polymer-modified thinset to comply with our installation method. The polymer-modified mortar will ensure longevity in the project, and when mortar dye is added, will provide a dark rake-joint look to the final project.

Great question, Samuel! For the thinset, any polymer-modified mortar will work, but we do like SpecMix XP500 and Laticrete MVIS as some examples. For the joints, any Type-N or Type-S mortar at your local distributor will work.

For thin brick/stone veneer applications, we have seen successful curing with polymer modified thinset up to 1” from the back of your lath, though it could be more. Veneer masonry doesn’t often have requirements for thicker applications, so we can’t provide the specific maximum thickness.

Not with Speedymason brick lath! Once you trowel on the thinset over the panel, the guide legs meter out the perfect amount of thinset for optimum brick adherence. Thin bricks are pressed into the wet thinset and once set, the mechanical bond of the thinset to the Speedymason lath and the chemical bond of the thinset to the thin brick create a quality finish that will withstand the rest of time!

When you ask “holding it off the concrete”, do you mean above the concrete slab at grade level, or are you asking if there needs to be a buffer off of a concrete wall (like a poured or CMU wall)?

@@speedymason the floor of my porch . I’ve heard it may need to be 1/2” to 1 inch off the concrete slab of the porch. And if so what goes under the stone between the floor?

Thank you for clarifying! Yes, a 1" lift off of the floor is a good clearance between the grade and the lath!

@@speedymason what do you recommend putting in that 1 inch space. I have never done a stone front like this. I wish I could send you pics of my project so you can see what I have in mind.

@@sethb775 You can send photos of your project to samuel@speedymason.com and we can better discuss your project through email!

Great question! Surface bonding cement mix has fiberglass reinforcement for greater hold on a wall (particularly with block walls), but as you stated, type-s is also good for scratch-coating too, however the type-s is usually coated over a lath for a mechanical bond and thus strengthening the hold. As far as which is better, it comes down to the situation you plan to apply it. For applying straight over concrete block, the surface bonding cement mix will technically be stronger, but over metal lath, type-s should be adequate.

@@speedymason Excellent explanation, makes perfect sense. Thanks mate!

@@hippo-potamus You’re welcome!

This is clay brick we are working with.

@@speedymason catched it..

I would like to see that technique. Do you have any videos you could share? I appreciate the message and would like to try it.

I am long since retired and really none of us here in NY ( that I know of) have done it in quite a while since those types of jobs stopped happening around here ( Big projects) about 15 years ago but I worked at GE in Schenectady NY back in the late 90s and even at that time I had No idea how much actual footage was possible until I worked with a crew of guys older than me who knew the process and even then it wouldn’t have been possible if not for a really knowledgeable man who had been in the industry since the 1950s and he had recipe books for all kinds of specific mixes that just don’t exist in this country and even his simple common brick dry pointing mix was completely different from any kind of spec mix or quickete sakrete etc Everything he did was from scratch so he probably screened the mason sand and maybe added his own whatever and mixed it with hydrated lime and Portland cement instead of just using masonry cement and sand?? I know that guys used to ask him for recipes for brownstone patching or whatever and he used to tell them that his recipe books all burned up in a fire or whatever ( He was a bit of a weirdo and that’s why he was so good) but I remember his dry mix having a whole different kind of Action ( for lack of a better word) It Performed differently from any masons mix or mortar mix that you can get at the Home Depot That much I’m sure about and I had no idea at the time just how much of a difference that even a simple brick pointing mix could be Bag mix that you just add water to like quickrete feels dead and gritty but His was. “ Live “ and not “ gritty “ and some of us were tuck pointing 2 or 3 hundred square feet a day ( or even more?) but that was after doing it for well over a year every day and off swing scaffolding and not frame scaffolding which is obviously much more difficult and I went from GE to an 1890s brownstone type college in Troy NY and did quite a bit of Grape Vine pointing which is a completely different mix and process but still the same Live Mortar ( 2001) but Never did that again after that job since Americans really don’t have the appreciation for that type of labor intensive specialty skill and how much it must cost ( no idea?) Not everyone could tuckpoint Even with everything as structured and organized orderly etc though unless you actually cared enough about the finished product and I actually worked a smaller job before GE and the guy running that job had an even dryer mix and he told everyone on the crew that if anybody gets caught holding the hawk against the wall They were Fired ( which is a little extreme since sometimes you have to hold the hawk against the wall in tricky spots) and that job was common brick old mortar which really was okay but they wanted it prettier and both of those jobs were cut out with all Air tools No electric anything little air chisels that are really hard to find now but I have a few from big swap meets way back and Imagine being told that you cannot use electricity at G.E.!! And GE was Wet Blasted since it was partially painted with lead paint which involved mixing Sand and water and Air and the old “ dinosaur “ who was the mixmaster was literally the only one I’ve ever worked with who could have set that enormous operation up and I really miss that guy and those types of jobs! I am going to try and mimic his dry mix from scratch and make a video about how we did it all off the trowel ( or slicker. tuck pointing tool) and point it to a finish just to show anyone who cares?? You’re definitely one of the better ones with the grout bag Sir.! Most of the videos I’ve seen they aren’t even getting it into the joints just sort of squirting it out all over the surface and really splashing it up pretty bad. THERES a guy on a video called 1kb and I watched him use a grout bag off a stepladder on a column and he was the only one ( besides you) that didn’t just make a mess But that guys got crazy long arms and young strong flexible He’s maybe the Best teacher All around that I’ve seen He can really teach ( I don’t know if I can?) I have actually never used a grout bag in over 30 years on union jobs or anywhere else and We were actually okayed to use them on a school job once and the boss tried it himself first and decided No Way so we didn’t and that guy was faster than almost anyone so if he couldn’t then we couldn’t So we never did . I’m going to have to try it sometime though just to see what it’s like and for big joints in the ground I can see how it could definitely be easier since you’re not on the knees

@@speedymason There’s also videos on U tube from a Company in London called London pointing and restoration and they remove pebble dash from old brick houses and I actually did pebble dash once ( one day job) Thanks only to the same “ dinosaur “ and had no idea that it was even called pebble dash but you cannot believe how great the old multi colored brick and stone is underneath or why anyone would want to cover it up with the pebble dash finish?? I guess it was a popular look at one time?and they do what’s called Penny Roll tuck pointing and it’s actually a few different kinds of pointing mix for the brick red and then white penny roll and I’ve actually seen it in a few places here in NY from a century ago and there’s even an Irish type of specific Ribbon Style that is even more complicated than the English penny roll and The Irish there say that “ They Own It “ like saying Don’t even think about making money doing this We Own It and that’s a whole bag of tricks that even I know nothing about!

Good catch, Travis!

Thanks!

Speedymason Brick Lath

You could get by with using a Type S mortar. However, if it were me, I would use a polymer modified mortar like Laticrete, Spec Mix XP500 or ProLite. Hope that helps.

some video seem to suggest rapid set? will that be once the water level come back up in the spring? less appealing than your suggestions?@@speedymason

@@Laguna2013 Rapid set would work as well. Usually used when you have a short amount of time to get the job done. As long as it is a mortar that will adhere to the existing mortar you will be good. That's why I would suggest a polymer modified. You can find polymer modified in a rapid set as well.

www.zoro.com/marshalltown-grout-bag-vinyl-12x24-gb692/i/G3850632/?campaignid=19725757169&productid=G3850632&v=&gclid=CjwKCAjwrranBhAEEiwAzbhNtcEFCLSFb2_lkeFtC105qMEMQgr9DZjw5VM-7ImKsuEOZinnjVUlpxoCW5kQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Thanks for the info, have you tried a mortar gun yet? I am not a masonry man, I'm working on my own home.

@@markfialkowski4388 I have used the Quikpoint mortar gun. It works good but it can be tricky. You have to clean it a lot but it really does help the arms. I may still have one in stock if you are interested. Feel free to email me tony@speedymason.com and I can get you a price.

I picked up a mortar gun and had nothing but trouble with it it kept on drying up on me. Then if I made it too wet it would just come pouring out. Again this has been a learning experience for me when it comes to masonry work. It's not as easy as it looks.

@@markfialkowski4388 I do prefer using the bag myself.

Evan, if you are using a standard type N or S, it would fail. However, we require a polymer modified mortar for this method. It is tested and proven.

400 pounds per square inch pullout strength plus a mechanical bond around the edge. It will be in the wall years after we are all gone. I guarantee that!

@@speedymason right, sure.

@@whenimmanicimgodly4228 great reply. Lol. Anything else? I replied to your comment so others know the facts. Take that as you want. The other people on this feed will actually check it out.

The Speedymason Stone Lath is on it. Then a polymer modified mortar is over that. This stone will be there forever.

oh man! I love this brick! But, you can use any thin brick on the market.

Well, it's no Pantera but it will do.

Great question! Any time you are applying thin brick, it is best practice to have some form of support system behind the brick to support the thin brick, yes. We used our Speedymason brick lath with polymer-modified mortar to stick the thin bricks before bagging and striking. The joints have a high probability of not cracking because of the rigidity of the thin bricks adhered to the panel.

@@speedymason Nice! Thanks so much for the advice :)

@@silverswan8 You’re welcome!

Would this be for an upper room with a wall against the roof, or an angle on a corner?

@@speedymason an interior wall, we have two 22° angles to deal with it. Not sure if can make thin brick work…

@@suzannesweitzer6497 A lot is possible with thin brick and polymer modified mortar. If you want, we can have a better conversation about the specifics of your thin brick job if you want to email us at tony@speedymason.com !

You can find more information at Speedymason.com. You can also find where to purchase our products. Yes, you can use this on the bottom side of an arch. You will need to use a good polymer modified mortar. We can supply that to you if you need. You can also contact me direct at tony@speedymason.com

I would use S in this situation

@@speedymason I've actually returned the s and picked up the n. My house was built in 1940 so I assume these bricks are soft and I'd read that the mortar should be softer than the bricks. I thought maybe the s would crumble the bricks. What I planned on doing for extra structural and water barrier support is parge over the brick with structural reinforcing surface cement. As well as replace the rotted brick ties that were attached to the second stack of brick behind this double brick wall. Do you see any problems with this?

@@KurtG85 That is about as good of a solution as you could get in my opinion. Making sure the brick are clean before you parge it will be very important.

@@speedymasonI appreciate your opinion on the situation. Thanks!

Any suggestions? We have shipped these all over the United States and Canada with no issue.

how much does something like this cost purely in supplies/materials?

@@chadh9688 Great question! However, it does depend on a few things. Depending on the brick that is picked and the mortars you use but the best way to figure it out is contact one of our distributors. They can get you an all in price. You can find a distributor on our website under the where to buy tab. In the industry we say rule of thumb $10.00 per square foot for materials. That would include Speedymason, bed mortar, thin brick and bagging mortar.

I am doing a turret, round exterior wall. Distance around is 36 ft. We apply speedy mason verticle, do we have to grout joints. The wall had limestone on it, we removed it to the 1/2" plywood.

@@alvinflamand7132 Thanks for the question! It will depend on how big the joints get. Are you planning to use Ultra-Speed or regular size brick? Best thing to do is email me with some details. My email address is tony@speedymason.com

Where I can by your thin set product ? I’m Pittsburgh Pa

@@nickolaygonchar9060 Great question! We actually have a spot on our website that can help you find the closest place to purchase Speedymason! Check it out at the link below! www.speedymason.com/find-a-distributor

@@nickolaygonchar9060 Beth-Hanover is our supplier out there. You can reach Bill Raab at 610-867-5840

@@speedymason thank you !

@@nickolaygonchar9060 You’re welcome!

Correct. For an interior application we do not require an air and water barrier unless you are doing a shower or something like that. For exterior application you do need an air and water barrier.

Not sure what they are using there. It looks like it is almost a clay type product.

You should only remove the plastic over the Peel n' Stick when you are ready to install. I wouldn't have the glue exposed too long on site. Also, there are 2 sides to the film. One side has silicone on it and the other side does not. If you get it turned around, it will stick like crazy. I would use PL500 or Power Grab for the adhesive if you need. And yes, the Type N mortar will mechanically bond to the panel after bagging and striking and chemically bond to the brick. It takes over 150 pounds of force to remove one single brick from the Peel n' Stick.

@@speedymason Perfect answers, Tony! And the note about the two sides of the film absolutely explains what I ran into lol. Some of it peeled off just like the first time, others, well let’s just say it is now part of the wall! I just won’t try and do that again. Thanks so much, what an awesome product.

I will see what I can do.

Polymer Modified would be your best bet. I would suggest Laticrte.

Thanks, I'll give this a try. Another question: Would Polymer sand work in "hairline Cracks"?

@@GKofTX I am not familiar with using polymer sand. Can't help you there. Sorry.