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Thank you for your advice 🙏

This is very inspiring. I believed I have done exactly that trying to salvage one clogged obXidian nozzle but I didn’t go till its glow red, so maybe I will give it a go another time. :) appreciate such a sincere comment 🙏 thank you sir

Thanks Nick!

Thank you for your advice, I have few of those. Ill keep this in mind next time 🙏 but with Alpha, when cold, this would not have helped. With heated bed, instead of wooden scraper, very likely.

Hey, thanks for your comment. I have pretty much resolved this grinding noise by: reducing belt tension, adjusting pulley position, installing 6x squash ball feet. The noise in the video has been reduced by 80-90% I would say (credit mainly to squash ball feet upgrade). I have also reduced tension on some of the bolts (around Y rod bearings).

Thank you! I also found some parts with letter “E”, those probably are internal iterations too.

Got it from levendigs.com/

Does the stepper get hot when it's at idle?

Thank you very much, this is great shout! I actually contacted prusa support for advice and they said pulley position in video is too close to motor - they were right, it has to be realligned with pulley holder frame edge (as it says in their manual) and then another thing they said, which sounded a bit counter intuitive for me was to release bolts for front and back plates, which I dont think I even want to try. The other user gave good tip to release belt tension for Y which I always had on mid-high, now reduced to just at lowest mark within allowed zone on their tool and this helped further reduce noise. So, your tip about motor could be the case closer :) any advice where you got them from? But overall this printer seems to be very sensitive to bolt/belt tensions, this is very delicate and gentle, while I always like to run it tight!

@@StudioSpaceDust I don't know why, but TH-cam annoys me, delete my comment where I try to give you tips to reduce the resonance to a minimum, so I'll try with only one type :) try the sqash ball mod or at least the anti-vibration pad, I use both, it works on furniture anti-vibration mat, there is a 40x40 paving cube on the mat and also a printer with aqash balls, now the loudest motors are on the printer

@@StudioSpaceDust the second tip is to properly lubricate the bearings, you'd be surprised how many people do it wrong and I don't recommend using the enclosed grease from Prusa, super lube is a good choice, here is a very good guide on how to lubricate the bearings, start from the time from 04:33 I won't give you the link because TH-cam always deletes the comment, I don't understand why, so I'll give you the title of the TH-cam video: Lubrication Basics - Keep your 3D printer running smooth and quiet

@@davidzapletal9063 Thank you, incredible tips, I'm going to try to pick some anti vibration pad from amazon and check that feet mod. I already use Super Lube but again, thanks for the link, I'm sure I didn't lubricate it the right way - so always up for learning new tricks. This, together with reduced belt tension, and right pulley position will be the end of this grinding. :D Love it, so many people gave so many good tips!

I changed motor, changed bearings, try to Loose and tight everything but still Getting grinding noise. Any ideas? Maybe shifting pulley to the side or making y axis overhaul from printables ?

Good point, thank you :)

Hi Paul, thanks for the tip, ppreciate your comment, will definitely give it a try! I think loosening belt tension to “min” setting on a belt tensioning tool will help. I also noticed it makes massive difference releasing bearing tensioning fixtures too.

Hey, thanks for the tip. As far as I’m aware there sadly is no PID calibration for MK4 :(

​​@@StudioSpaceDustform the Prusa knowledge Base This is a list of currently implemented G-Codes in Prusa Buddy firmware for MINI/MINI+/XL/MK4/MK3.5 printers M303 - M303: Run PID tuning PID relay autotune Parameters: S<temperature>: sets the target temperature. (default 150C / 70C) E<extruder>: (-1 for the bed) (default 0) C<cycles>: Minimum 3. Default 5. U<bool>: with a non-zero value will apply the result to current settings.

@@berlinberlin4246 thank you for the shout! Do you know a way how pass the heater test though? Because printing wise it prints without any issue even when the test fails. But because test is not completed (failed) before every print printer notifies that fact and you need to click "continue".. But to be honest I have same issue printing with NGEN or FLEX, I just cant find a way how to set Prusa filament to be NGEN, FLEX, it prints both of them, just have to click that I'm ok that filament that is loaded is not the same what the slicer file is.

Hey, thanks for your comment. Hot bed to 90C+ and wooden scraper(not to ruin hot bed coating) is the only way I managed to remove those prints safely.

Did they offer any solution? I noticed that the way this printer is designed, its very sensitive to tigtening tension. When I think I didnt apply much force at all it is actually ~2x too much. You can feel how much resistance decreases when moving plate for Y axis once pressure on bearing tigtenings is reduced inder the heating plate. And in return it then operates more quiet. This printer is good for slow-medium speed printing, this is what its design is telling me (just my opinion).

If you are changing the nozzle and this happens it may be that filament wasn’t unloaded or wasn’t unloaded successfully, try to unload filament again.

Or fix it back, load filament until you see it purging out normally, then unload filament, and then try again this process

Ah, found them on Prusa's shop.

Hello and thanks for your comment. I bought them from Prusa store too but you can also find them on third party websites :)

Good to know, thank you for sharing. There is always room for improvement :)

Hello and thanks for your comment, I think it makes sense what you are saying but if I can add to that thought id say pause would be needed between every say… 5 layers or so because adhesion of first layer is not an issue as sheet is cold in the beginning but the bigger the print the more thermal mass it stores and I suppose heat goes down to base causing warp at later stage of the print. But really good idea! Worth testing.

@@StudioSpaceDust It definitely won't be as straightforward I'm sure ^^ It's interesting to hear that adhesion is good on a cold bed, would allow for very energy efficient printing on top of the eco friendly nature of the filament. The issue indeed often is that filament stores heat too efficiently, even with fans on full blast it will only cool so quick. Maybe side blowers like bambu and voron printers do is the key to keeping temperatures in check. I have high hopes for PHA I'd love to finally have true eco friendly material to work with. I might grab a spool for myself to check it out. It's just a little pricey for my taste :/ I've subscribed to your channel to keep an eye out for you future expirements Thanks again for sharing, keep up the good work :D

Yup, low energy bill is definitely a big advantage. Even with little warp it’s still a good material for simple prints. Those who want more dimensional stability may go for PLA/PHA mix, a bit of a compromise but still more sustainable than regular PLA.

The more heat the more warp with this one. After filament leaves nozzle it takes quite a while to solidify (compared to pla/petg) thats why it is recommended to have 100% fan from 1st layer. I originally tested this material with closed door of enclosure and internal temperature was ~28C which resulted in more warp than later when I opened enclosure door, turned internal enclosure fan on an even opened window nearby which dropped temperature to ~23C which resulted in prints with less warp, so if one can drop it even lower maybe warp could be eliminated altogether. Direct AC feed to enclosure, this would be a fun test :)

Good question, will need to do some research :)

The reason I tried 3d lac is because it is specified by ColorFabb in their technical data sheet. I suppose glue stick could work to some extent but I will leave it for others to try. Technically 3d lac is stronger than PVA glue stick anyways and even with it I couldn't prevent warp 100%. I think what would really help is dropping ambient temperature really low. Like as low as you can get in winter in a basement. But I wont be able to test that too. Or also if you could drop print speed even more, but again, then print times will be unfeasible. Or if printed with 3d lac on a glass sheet. But this is another story.

It is possible to remove it from the sheet if it is heated to 90C+ but not from cold sheet. Brim and 3d lac helps to mitigate warp but i do not recommend using 3d lac as even heated to 120C its hard to remove. As you said it would be better to do that on a glass sheet. But glass sheets are old school, no affordable printer manufacturer uses those any more as majority of people print PLA or PETG or sometimes ASA, PC or PA which are also okish on flex sheet. This video is testing AllPHA on MK4, if I had Ultimaker with a set of glass sheets to test it on I would, but I dont.

@@StudioSpaceDust thanks for the reply I just bought an A1 mini with PHA filament from beyondplastic they just released their second gen PHA filament

Hey no problem, thanks for asking. In this video it was all about AllPHA from ColorFabb, so I'm not sure if this will imply to this filament you mentioned as I am not familiar with that, especially since its from another manufacturer. There are other filaments even from ColorFabb like PLA/PHA which are 100% biodegradable but they are not 0% microplastics as AllPHA. I have not tested them but I would assume they print much easier than AllPHA since they are probably mixed with PLA. PHA on its own is made out of fat cells of bacteria, and then some added colour pigment, that's why its harder to print it. Just googled the filament you mentioned. Seems liks its 100% PHA, so let me know once you tried printing. Maybe you have better experience!

@@StudioSpaceDust i printed my first print on the A1 mini and changed the recommended print settings, no warping, no brim, printed on textured PEI amazing filament but i printed about the size of a bottle cap yet still very impressive results for PHA from beyond plastic, came off fairly easily no heated bed required. Edit: tiny tiny bit of warping but not visible to my eye upon first impressions

Tha ks for the update, sounds similar to ColorFabbs AlPHA, if you later print bigger object like those boxes in my video let me know, also is PHA from Beyond Plastics also easy to cut and scratch prone?

You are welcome! By the way, now Prusa has released one too, they have also uploaded a apecial tool for that, it wasnt available when I made a video, so make aure to check this link. www.printables.com/model/801656-mk4-nozzle-replacement-tool

Hey, congratulations on your new kit. It is 1.5 Nm (13.3 lb-in) you can check this article for more details help.prusa3d.com/guide/how-to-replace-the-prusa-nozzle-mk4-mk3-9_421215

Hi Steve, I used AC Infinity Multifan S3. These fans are very quiet and have inbuilt controller, you can set fan on Low/Medium/High flow (~$20 on Amazon). These fans uses usb port so if you have old phone charger it can be reused to power the fan/fans. I used two of these fans only because I had them already but one will do job just as fine. But… any 120mm fan will work with Prusa Enclosure, maybe nowadays there are better fans, Noctura is also very good brand. Link to fans I used amzn.eu/d/7x7aLOS you can use link in video description to get printable files if you wish to use what I used in video.

If you do that then: 1) you melt aluminum heater block 2) hardened steel nozzle becomes ruined if you exceed 300C or whatever is set as max temp by manufacturer. Thats why some use soldering iron, so that they dont overheat it. But if you want to blast it, of course it’s your choice. Not to mention your cables will melt too, in some cases, as in mine thermistor cable was melted to heater block, blasting it with flame would have just burnt it. This can i ly be done with Prusa brass nozzle. I have done it myself after i clogged it, in that case, yes it worked, I also used 2mm drill to remove filament stuck inside.

This is a good question. I was also watching videos about that but.. best is to test it by printing big size models like boxes and see if its noticeable, as if its skewed, boxes wont close. So far all my prototypes from multiple maxed out parts printed without any issues with PETG, I only had some unexplained layer shifting issues but that turned out to be issue of either prusa slicer or error while copying file to usb.

...the load cell? they market this pretty hard

i don't understand this question 🤔 which probe and which automatic skew compensation?

3:37 order components (seperatly)

Hey, thanks for watching, I got this one: “Sealey Sts103 Screwdriver Torque Digital 0.05-5Nm 1/4 Hex Drive” at the moment its ~£53 on Amazon. It comes callibrated with certificate and is also useful for printer maintenance. Downside you will need precision Philips (+) screwdriver to get it going - to install provided batteries. But then it’s very easy to use. You will also need 7mm Allen Socket for nozzle (if you have drill bit set those are usually part of set).

@@StudioSpaceDustHey thanks for the quick reply ! Looks like these may be a UK-Specific item, but it's got me doing down the right track, so thanks again !

Yes, it’s a UK brand, in the US there should be more options to choose from :) I would only not recommend getting a mechanical one from a questionable brand, plenty of those on Amazon, I tried this “Aurloct” brand, had good reviews but ended up returning as it was impossible to rely on the torque range and metal was soft. Happy printing!

You can, its optional. MK4’s Nextruder fits Festo QSM M5-4 adaptor, if you want to have direct feed from dry box via PTFE tube for example then youll need to get few of these. I made adaptor for top of enclosure, you can find that for download at my printables page too. Thanks for watching.

Good things take time, thank you ☺️ 🙏

While I was screwing Prusa Nozzle into heat block after the leak I cross threaded walls, so in this case it will not work because Its ruined, but this tip of boron nitride and bronze brush on a drill sounds like a plan. If I ever get to use Nextruder Adapter again Ill know better how to deal with leaks issue. Using Prusa nozzle eliminates all this hassle though...BUT if somebody has a specific nozzle they want to use this may be a great tip. Thank you for the practical advise. I think using metal brush on a drill + heating might at least help salvage the nozzle X nozzles, or clean Obxidian tips from outside when regular bronze brush is helpless.

@@StudioSpaceDust The main reason they made the V6 adapter is a lot of people (like me) have many specialty nozzles for the older V6 hotends. I have around a dozen 0.4 hardened tool steel nozzles for the V6 hotend and the adapter allows me to use these expensive nozzles in the MK4. And yes, Boron Nitride is like plumbers sealant for 3D Printer enthusiasts. It helps seal up the threads, while making the parts not seize together...

Hey, this is a great idea! I will keep this in mind. So far the corner thermometer (original Prusa enclosure top left) is picking up ~+10C on top of room temperature when printing PETG, for example if its 22C in the room its ~32C in an enclosure with both (newly installed) fans set on low. While on low they are slowly and quietly pulling the air out and the amount of the draft created is way less than compared to using an original fan which is so powerful that moves all the dust around and only circulate air inside (not saying its a bad fan, just very powerful). I did a small PC blend print which came out without warps but to your point i would do more testing with ASA too, i just ordered BASF Ultrafuse and cant wait to try how that prints. And yes I could try to position temperature sensor in the middle to see how that compares to top left sensor. Why not. More-so would be good to order proper VOC sensor to compare readings, they are a bit expensive but ill get one with time. Thank you for your comment, this is definitely going to be in future video pipeline.

Thanks for sharing! I found that neither with ObXidian neither with Nozzle X (with nextruder adapter) i did not have to raise print temperatures. I used OG Prusa Slicer material presets. With Prusament it worked. And i didn’t have any quality or adhesion issues. I do print with an enclosure so not sure if it helps, i printed PETG-CF, prints like a charm and also did small print of PC Blend from Prusa with ObXidian, also printed just fine. I only so far had issue with FilaFlex40 from Filatech yesterday it loaded and it came out via nozzle but once i started actual print it immediately clogged, i then stopped the print and unloaded filament and reloaded with PETG which managed to ram through. So no more Flex for me, but its MK4 issue i think, there are lots of people discussing that Nextruder doesnt grip well on soft filaments, but regarding all hard filaments im a big fan of Prusa nozzle. As you said, maybe if you use some binding agent for nozzle adaptor it can work, but then if you glue it can you later still change the nozzle, or do you need to clean? And how long it takes? Also as I know originally Prusa XL shipped with 0.6mm but i believe now they changed to 0.4mm.

@@StudioSpaceDust I print fine with both the Polymaker PCMax and 3DxTech ezPC on my XL if I use a really good higher temp bed adhesive the first spool of ezPC-CF I got from them was the brittle one it would break it just loading it into the extruder and could be snapped in your hand with no effort. I have a spool of PA6-CF nylon that I printed some voron parts in using my voron but have not tried on my XL because it has no enclosure. My thermal issues with hardened nozzles were early on with my voron printing fast.. The XL thus far has been a nice printer though I do miss the speed and controls of my voron. As to the boron nitride it is not a glue it is a high temp thermal paste i got when I was switching hot ends on my voron and continue to use when I want to improve thermal contact in the heater block, no idea if it helps sealing the nozzle... it wants to be dust and stain everything but i could see it helping gap fill the threads for any nozzle... I mentioned it as a possible reason I am having better luck using an adapter. As I would be truly surprised if your MK4 vibrates more than my XL with all it's tool changing and the corexy design movement. As to flex filaments I thus far have only printed a flex PLA and a 92A TPU I find the PLA a touch easier with the TPU needing me to remove the PTFE tube from the extruder and carefully pushing it past the filament sensor. It works but yes I think printing soft filaments on a nextruder is always going to be hit and miss. Hence why I have the voron... it is where i try all the weird stuff.

@@carolynhudson6858 Interesting, I was hoping XL being core XY would superseed Voron. But to be honest, its still early days with XL, there are still a lot of bugs, give it another year for them to work out firmware i think. Regarding Extruder adaptor I think one potential issue is that heater block is made of aluminium, the adapter is brass and nozzle is hardened steel, I`m no expert but three different metals may have different heat retention properties and so on resulting in parts loosening up within heating/cooling cycles. To install prusa nozzle there is no need to heat the heaterblock before screwing in the nozzle unlike when installing nozzles via adapter requires to heat up hotend before tightening, and it still didnt help me. Witin 100 hours or so it got loose, then i tightened it, while hot, I tightened from top (the adapter) and from bottom (the nozzle) and I still got a leak. Potential improvement may be third party V6 heaterblocks. Also regarding PC, if you want to print it on XL try Prusament PC Blend Carbon Fiber Black 800g, if you can get hold of it as its always out of stock, reviews seem to be praising this material a lot but its just never available.

This is THE best solution for using the V6 adapter. The boron nitride fills in the gaps, much like plumbing paste does for plumbers, while also preventing the materials from bonding so tightly they cannot be separated.

@@StudioSpaceDust it’s hard to supersede a moving target like the voron. But the tool changing in the XL while not a first by any means is what makes it shine. Five tool changing while expensive and complicated to get right is so interesting even if you only ever use it for color swaps I took a logo from a friend’s business website, converted it to a vector file and extruded the forms into a 3d logo even using stacking of different layers to make colors beyond the 5 filaments I had loaded. I have also tried some mixed material prints but those are a much fussier print. If I had one wish for the xl it would be a toss up between faster cou for a full klipper + touchscreen interface or a good enclosure for printing plastics that like to warp bed adhesive helps but it’s no cure all.

Thank you for making great nozzles!

Its an awesome printer, just be mindful with small detail printing, it can clog the nozzle. It will come with 0.4mm brass nozzle - use it to learn, install ObXidian after you have better idea of how slicing works. Brass nozzle will print everything its just that it will wear quicker if you print abrasive materials such as CF. Also, its safe and I recommend installing silicone sock with prusa needle, while with nozzle adaptor I would not recommend. And between ~10h print time make sure nozzle doesnt get loose within heater block. It will print even if its loose but safer to tighten it. I will make video how to maintain MK4 later. So stay tuned. You need to do that every ~200h print time. Otherwise - welcome to the team Prusa :)

@@StudioSpaceDust, Sorry I should have been more specific. I own two MK3 for the last four years and I am going to replace them slowly with the MK4s. So it is the new features and hardware of the MK4 I am new to. I did buy the socks based on your recommendation. Previously, I found them a pain with the MK3, but you have changed my mine for the MK4. I had hardened Steel nozzles for the MK3 and was wondering what the equivalent was for the MK4. I will check out the ObXidian. I print a lot of board game inserts so 0.6 and 0.8 comes in handy. I am excited to experience swapping the different sizes out quickly. It is my main reason to upgrade since it was such a pain in the MK3. I look forward to your next video on maintaining the MK4 video or any video about the new nozzle formats. thx

Understood. Since manufacturer of Prusa nozzle is E3D, the only available option from them when it comes to hardened steel nozzle is ObXidian, which is at the moment only available in 0.4 and 0.6 mm. I’ll aim to make short video how to quick change Prusa nozzle asap. Thanks for good idea.